Rockfax Description
Climb onto the chock then move left to reach the narrow crack that splits the buttress left of the gully. Safe, but it is a fair test of crack technique and a good teaser for many a Stanage VS. © Rockfax

FA. Eric Byne early 1930s

Ticklists: Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/4/ Universities,Teams and Clubs in the 1930's, All trad climbs at Birchen Edge.

Steve Andrews 14/Oct Lead O/S

Steeper than it looks at top but nice jams and not as bad as it initially feels getting established in crack

tsl42 28/Sep 2nd O/S
timreynolds 23/Sep Lead rpt
with Ben Stainfield
EllieWoods 23/Sep 2nd O/S
with Leo
Hidden 27/Aug 2nd
keitht 15/Aug Solo
FergusNorrie 06/Aug Lead O/S
knjmooney 06/Aug 2nd
Droyd 29/Jul Lead rpt
with Megan, Ben
jimbonfire 24/Jul Lead
BlueJohn 20/Jul 2nd
Hidden 20/Jul Lead O/S
Jonno30 17/Jul Lead O/S
Marl 16/Jul Solo O/S
tonto169 01/Jul -
Theeni 25/Jun Lead O/S
with John McEvoy
pawel suhy 25/Jun 2nd O/S

Found it easier than its looks. Nice jamming at the top

alexjf 25/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun -
jamie.layzell 21/Jun 2nd
mapperley samurai 11/Jun Lead rpt
with Andy Hemsted
Hidden 09/Jun Lead O/S
Wayne S 09/Jun 2nd
theplacelives 03/Jun Lead dog
jcdavy 03/Jun 2nd O/S
JoeFoster59 03/Jun Solo G/U

Went up had a look declared there to be too much jamming came down. On further inspection from afar I could see a way to jam less so I went up it. A little awkward but fun.

sjbrook 21/May Lead rpt
Lancer 21/May 2nd
with Sam, Tom PCC
Andyjharper 06/May Lead O/S

got all the way up to the last move then backed off and did victory gully instead

with Chris delaney
mrphilipoldham 02/May 2nd rpt
alanblyth 02/May Lead O/S
teh_mark 30/Apr 2nd
with Becky Smedley, Jack Tondeur
Becky 30/Apr Lead O/S
with Mark
kermit_uk 27/Apr Solo O/S
abathingjames 23/Apr Solo O/S
Hidden 22/Apr Lead
Hidden 19/Apr Lead rpt
Hidden 08/Apr 2nd rpt
James Oakes 04/Apr Solo O/S
with Dan Middleton, Georgia Townend
Sid Sherborne 03/Apr 2nd O/S
with Matt Taylor
Rob_Morris1996 02/Apr 2nd O/S
with admcne
admcne 02/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Apr Lead rpt
Hidden 26/Mar Lead rpt
Chris1234H 12/Mar Lead O/S
pimonserry 12/Mar 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Mar Lead rpt
mrphilipoldham 01/Mar Lead O/S

Very awkward! Getting in the crack from the left requires thought, as does escaping the excellent undercut arm jam 2/3 the way up.

Paul Hy 01/Mar 2nd rpt
with Phil O
seanlikeskites 19/Feb Lead rpt
Hidden 19/Feb 2nd
Hidden 19/Feb 2nd rpt
Hidden 21/Jan Lead O/S
Andy Moles 14/Jan Solo
Wayne S 07/Jan TR

Completely drenched, mid jugs full of water, backed off lead and finished off on Emma's slab. Dropped rope down and a little dryer by the time we got on it.

with Dale
D Berry 07/Jan TR rpt
with Wayne S
Hidden 21/Dec/16 2nd
Hidden 21/Dec/16 Lead
slab_happy 25/Nov/16 Lead O/S
with Droyd
georgenvk 19/Nov/16 Lead O/S
with Hrb
Roberttaylor 05/Nov/16 Solo O/S
cem 30/Oct/16 Lead rpt
with Gabor Apati-Nagy
Phil West 23/Oct/16 2nd O/S
with Chris Tan
Fiona Hughes 22/Oct/16 Lead
with SP
Hidden 22/Oct/16 2nd
scottycrimpsalot89 ?/Oct/16 Lead dog
PeteH 30/Sep/16 Solo O/S
Remyveness 14/Sep/16 Lead O/S
NatalieB96 14/Sep/16 2nd
Stephen3005 11/Sep/16 Lead
chrisdjackson 04/Sep/16 TR O/S

in wet

Matt Robinson 29/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Phil Brown
Sam Cooke 29/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Amanda
galyer895 19/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Gaz
mikestr555 14/Aug/16 2nd
Ron 14/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Steve A, Dawn
Benni99 14/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Definitely my hardest lead to date.

SophieAStanley 13/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Jack
tedswag 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Derek Furze 11/Aug/16 Lead
with Leigh Harrison
runestone 19/Jul/16 Lead rpt
with LizS
Hidden 19/Jul/16 2nd rpt
Hidden 17/Jul/16 Lead dog
Jamjar 10/Jul/16 2nd
with Mick Hill, Skyline
Rob Jarratt 21/Jun/16 Lead

A bit awkward at the start of the upper crack. Resident bird.

with Howard Jones
simeclimb68 20/Jun/16 Solo rpt
Capricorn One 26/May/16 Lead


with Fiona
Tim Ford 16/May/16 Lead O/S
with Jack Mines, Thomas Hocking
Hidden 16/May/16 2nd
Hidden 16/May/16 Lead
Shane Nowakowski 08/May/16 TR O/S
jennym32 08/May/16 2nd
with David (CMC)
Hidden 20/Apr/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 17/Apr/16 -
Hidden 17/Apr/16 2nd
Laurabrown 17/Apr/16 2nd
with Matt Stevenson, Amy Sears
fizzychewitt 03/Apr/16 Lead
with Jayne
paulsross 03/Apr/16 Lead

Big fall from near top but went back up to finish

with Phil Biglands
StevieLee 25/Mar/16 Lead RP
with Lawray
Lawray 25/Mar/16 2nd β
mrteale 17/Mar/16 Solo O/S

Lovely Jams.

Stroppy 13/Mar/16 Solo O/S
Tim Ford 13/Mar/16 TR O/S
with CUMs, Kinge
Kinge 13/Mar/16 Lead dog

Rested in the crack

with CUMS
Pike 28/Feb/16 Lead dog
with Giles
gaz3212 23/Feb/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Feb/16 2nd
jimbonfire 13/Feb/16 -
with TT
buxtoncoffeelover 07/Feb/16 Lead

Vigorous approach gets one established in the crack

with Guy
MusicalMountaineer 07/Feb/16 2nd rpt

Found it tougher on the second!

with Nik
Hidden ??/2016 -
Robin Nichols 31/Dec/15 Solo O/S
with Jemma
David Henchliffe 20/Dec/15 2nd
cragtyke 26/Nov/15 2nd

In the Wet

with Chris
Hidden 26/Nov/15 Lead
adambaker 21/Nov/15 Lead
Charlotte Nelson 25/Oct/15 2nd
with Heather
Horton 18/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Had a bit of a moment on double hand jams on the upper crack...

FlavioL1989 18/Oct/15 Solo O/S
TomRiddelsdell 17/Oct/15 2nd β
jvnichols 11/Oct/15 Lead
with Sabine, Helen
alijam42 11/Oct/15 2nd
Hidden 11/Oct/15 Lead O/S
pimpy 10/Oct/15 Lead
with Celso, Berta
MusicalMountaineer 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Found the last few moves difficult. Cam city. Worthy of more than one star.

alaster tonge 19/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Assad Lahlou
Blod 17/Sep/15 Lead rpt
with Bill B
Hidden 09/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Fellmonkey 09/Sep/15 2nd
with Ben Roden
vix 29/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Lorna
Vixxm 23/Aug/15 2nd
with Baldy
Jim Malo 23/Aug/15 Lead rpt
with Vix
samdickensuk 11/Jul/15 2nd O/S
bendevonport 29/Jun/15 Lead
Hog Dog 27/Jun/15 Lead dnf

Couldn't do last move

with Finn Box, Andy Howell
Hog Dog 27/Jun/15 2nd rpt
with Finn Box, Andy Howell
jamesnorton 20/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Peter Camidge
Hidden 18/Jun/15 Solo O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
manosand 07/Jun/15 2nd O/S
john_ni 07/Jun/15 2nd
seanlikeskites 07/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/15 Lead dog
The Norris 02/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Gem
DavidPC ?/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Jamie Lilley
tom bre 27/May/15 Lead O/S

Enjoyable - great gear

with conner read
SuperstarDJ 26/May/15 Lead dnf

Failed. Got up to the base of the upper crack easily and tried a couple of times to get gear in. Failed to get in anything I liked, after climbing up and climbing down twice, and gave up feeling cold and a bit pumped. Very disappointed in myself.

maumau 25/May/15 2nd O/S
glaramara 25/May/15 2nd

Tough crack which I tried to style but didn't.

with Mau mau, rich hughes
Caroline_Schofield 11/May/15 2nd
Hidden 11/May/15 Lead O/S
csd23 10/May/15 Lead O/S
with Richard Dodds
Jeremy Wilton 10/May/15 2nd O/S

This was tough - all of us rested or used a knee

with Richard Brown
max_chan 30/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Ruth - PCC
Ron 26/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Clive
Hidden 19/Apr/15 2nd dog
Hidden 15/Apr/15 Lead
Hidden 15/Apr/15 2nd
Hidden 15/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/15 Lead rpt
Durkules 15/Apr/15 2nd
royle883 14/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/15 2nd
amccann 08/Apr/15 Solo O/S
Hidden 05/Apr/15 2nd
George Killaspy 05/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Mar/15 2nd
Hidden 22/Mar/15 Lead rpt
joemallia 07/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Mar/15 2nd
65m moderate millington 04/Mar/15 Lead dog
Hidden 01/Feb/15 Lead O/S
robblowen 01/Feb/15 Lead rpt
euge74 ??/2015 Lead O/S
the power 31/Dec/14 Lead rpt
with deacon
John Higgs 09/Dec/14 Solo O/S
with Caitlin Bell
Hidden 30/Nov/14 2nd rpt
Luke Jones 02/Nov/14 Lead O/S
fatbuoybazza 01/Nov/14 Lead rpt
with TimG
Hidden 01/Nov/14 2nd O/S
RKirke 12/Oct/14 2nd O/S
with Freshers
Albachoss 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S

On Andrea's gear

with Andrea
Jack Manfredi ?/Oct/14 2nd
with Dad
Hidden 28/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 28/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
lee1234 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
MarcyBoy87 27/Sep/14 2nd
mrdigitaljedi 27/Sep/14 Lead
with marc
Hidden 27/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 06/Sep/14 2nd
TobyA 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with TonyB
bob_cbr 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
cragsman9000 31/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Neil
OllyT 27/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/14 Lead
jasonpm 24/Aug/14 -
sian88 19/Aug/14 Lead O/S
sian88 19/Aug/14 Lead O/S
ChrisH.19 16/Aug/14 2nd
with Ken L, Allan FW
Nigel Bond 07/Aug/14 2nd
with Debs
alpinismo.uk 07/Aug/14 Lead O/S
JHiley 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Katy M
Hidden 24/Jul/14 TR
Hidden 12/Jul/14 Lead
RichardLeggett 12/Jul/14 Lead
Marq 11/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden 08/Jul/14 TR O/S
Hidden 08/Jul/14 TR O/S
summerse 06/Jul/14 TR O/S
Benstar ?/Jul/14 2nd
jshields 25/Jun/14 Solo


jamesclimbing 23/Jun/14 Lead
DanChad 21/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Lizzie Covey, Chris Murray
Chris Murray 21/Jun/14 Lead
Hidden 21/Jun/14 2nd
Steve Waters, Mynydd 14/Jun/14 Lead
mtempest 14/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden 08/Jun/14 2nd rpt
Anne Gumbley 18/May/14 2nd
with Louise Bell
Jim Malo 18/May/14 Lead O/S
with Mark
JVard 02/May/14 -
JVard 02/May/14 Lead
migs493 27/Apr/14 Solo rpt
arthur_de_briton 24/Apr/14 Lead
with cat mckenna
gazfellows 16/Apr/14 Lead
with Nic
Karlos 05/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Matt Cooke 05/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Andrew Cooke
fuzzysheep01 05/Apr/14 2nd dog
with Adam Hughes, Karl Stewart
rohai545 04/Apr/14 Lead
with Helen
ht543 04/Apr/14 2nd
with Krish
kasha_gregson 24/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Matt_C9716 24/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Bloke on a Rope 22/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Vic, Matt
Climbster 22/Mar/14 2nd β
with Vick, Ian
David_Gledson 12/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Gary
Hidden 11/Mar/14 Lead
cragtyke 08/Mar/14 Lead
with Ross
Deezel65 08/Mar/14 2nd O/S
fuzzysheep01 08/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with Graham Perry
Markheighton 04/Mar/14 Lead
Alex_Derbyshire 04/Mar/14 Lead
david harvey ?/Mar/14 Lead β
with Ian
Ian Saxton ?/Mar/14 2nd
with dave
Hidden 28/Feb/14 Solo rpt
Hidden 16/Jan/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jan/14 2nd rpt
Hidden ??/2014 TR O/S
dionisys 17/Dec/13 Lead
Andypeak 17/Dec/13 2nd
DaveB61 10/Dec/13 Lead
the power 16/Nov/13 Lead rpt
with deacon
StevenGrundy 02/Nov/13 TR
bazilikiukas 02/Nov/13 TR dog

My favorite from the Birchen Edge

taRomi 02/Nov/13 -
HamzaEric 02/Nov/13 TR dog

This was the most challenging wall which I persevered and kept swinging into the crack of the wall. However, I persevered and with the help and encouragement of my belayer, I reached the top trying my utmost hardest to hold onto the walls with limited cracks, and pushing up higher. I secured a great VICTORY after falling and swinging in the CRACK! I was a VICTOR of the CRACK! #VictoryCrack

Hidden 17/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S
james.slater 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S

A good jamming crack!

simonsclimbing 05/Oct/13 2nd
steve.aisthorpe 25/Sep/13 Lead
with Hannah Burrows-Smith
WhipperSnapper 21/Sep/13 2nd dog
with scalpel
scalpel 21/Sep/13 Lead

Really well protected, brutal jamming

timcedwards 27/Aug/13 2nd
rockman 27/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/13 Lead dog
dannyevos 04/Aug/13 -
with Steve Swanborough, Rick Clapham
Steve Swanborough 04/Aug/13 2nd O/S
ewan.davies 03/Aug/13 2nd
with Becky, Caitlin
Hidden 03/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
idiotproof (Buxton MC) 20/Jul/13 -
David Robinson 20/Jul/13 Lead
with Rachel Sheperd
Sidekick 06/Jul/13 Solo O/S
adamashcroft 02/Jul/13 2nd
Andypeak 02/Jul/13 Lead
fabricio 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S


Hardcore Pat 27/Jun/13 Solo O/S
benny_m 22/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Richard Hemes
Hidden 20/Jun/13 Solo O/S
Leigh_M 15/Jun/13 2nd
with James
Dimart 10/Jun/13 TR O/S

Need to redo this as after completing was told that it had not been climber "clean" as I had used one hand on the arete to the left.

with Dave, Mike, Ben
adam carless 09/Jun/13 Solo rpt
jason smeeth 08/Jun/13 2nd
with hotfeet
hotfeet 08/Jun/13 Lead
EmileCilliers 04/Jun/13 TR O/S
ilarge 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Paul Fobbester
jpd80 ?/Jun/13 Lead
with Leigh
IngoBoegemann 12/May/13 2nd
Palmer 28/Apr/13 Lead
Ian JL 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/13 Lead β
mike_tamanawis 21/Apr/13 Lead dnf

Ballsed up the top crack, fell, ashamed... Need to practice crack climbing a bit more..

mike_tamanawis 21/Apr/13 2nd β

Hopkinson shows the way it's done.

Ragnaar 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Good jamming

with martin hirons
Dave Richards 20/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with sjbrook
sjbrook 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Dave Richards, PMC
rohai545 07/Apr/13 Lead
ht543 07/Apr/13 2nd
with Krish
Hidden 07/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden 06/Apr/13 Lead
Tamati 05/Mar/13 Solo O/S
schristophersmith 17/Feb/13 2nd O/S
with Henry, Ian Redfern
Reds 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with schristophersmith, Henry
Hidden 02/Feb/13 2nd O/S
Ian Hylands ??/2013 Lead O/S
with Piers Turnbull
AlanPedrick ??/2013 -
Dave Turnbull, BMC 23/Nov/12 Solo
MikeLell 17/Nov/12 Lead

Took time banging in lots of gear at final crack.

Paul Hy 13/Nov/12 Lead O/S
with Phil T
the power 13/Nov/12 2nd
with Paul Hy
Alex Wade 04/Nov/12 Lead O/S
with Perrine Triballi, Alex Linge
phleppy 20/Oct/12 Lead

Harder than i was expecting, seemed VS!

with Mark
Hidden 14/Oct/12 TR O/S
bigredsquirrel 29/Sep/12 2nd
Mr Fuller 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/12 2nd
birbeck 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
cathymiller 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Mike Bayley 13/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with Lee Attwater & Neil Armstrong
Hidden 12/Sep/12 2nd
tallsop 01/Sep/12 Lead


with Suzy
Dan818 30/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Wendy Watthews 08/Aug/12 Lead O/S
arandall 08/Aug/12 2nd O/S
misterb 07/Aug/12 Solo O/S
Jake Young 06/Aug/12 Solo O/S
mheyes101 28/Jul/12 2nd
Hidden 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Jim Slater 24/Jul/12 Solo O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/12 Lead
Jonny M 22/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Wayne S 20/Jul/12 Lead
Dave Mason 11/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Darren Belfield
nick ferro 01/Jul/12 -
Hidden 01/Jul/12 2nd
KevInLincoln 17/Jun/12 2nd
with john
john_ni 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with ODL
Hidden 10/Jun/12 Solo
Hidden 26/May/12 Lead dog
Hidden 20/May/12 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 19/May/12 Solo
RichardMc 19/May/12 2nd
with Brad Jackson
Jim Brownlow 19/May/12 2nd O/S
Keendan 16/May/12 Solo rpt
pippa_g 13/May/12 2nd O/S

easier and better than it looks, nice jams and good footholds

with Graeme
Hidden 03/May/12 2nd
Hidden 17/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/12 Lead O/S
jon59 01/Apr/12 Lead
nogoodgrice 01/Apr/12 Solo rpt
rich_hw 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Nikki
Hidden 18/Mar/12 Lead dnf
Hidden 18/Mar/12 2nd β
nogoodgrice 11/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with Greencaubeen
migs493 03/Mar/12 Solo O/S
with RS
robinmuzette 25/Feb/12 2nd
with Jenna Mckeer, Adam Jordan
AMJ098 25/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with Jenna mckeer, Robin Wilson
jennamsmile 25/Feb/12 TR
with Adam Jordan, Robin Wilson
Hidden 24/Feb/12 2nd
Hidden 25/Jan/12 Lead O/S
Morwood 14/Jan/12 Lead O/S
robblowen 06/Jan/12 Solo O/S

Roped Solo

Hidden ??/2012 Solo
Hidden ??/2012 Solo
David Qualtrough ??/2012 -
maddogdave ??/2012 2nd
Andypeak ??/2012 Lead
arandall 30/Oct/11 2nd O/S
ChrisBrooke 23/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Keeley Scholes
dainbramaged999 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
chrisanderson 14/Oct/11 Lead
Hidden 01/Oct/11 Lead dog
McKenna 01/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with Brian McG
pie_eater_pete 29/Sep/11 Solo O/S
phja 26/Sep/11 Lead rpt
with candy
Hidden 25/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Andysomething 23/Sep/11 Lead dog

Took flight moving up into the final crack

with Bruce Perry
D.Andrew 23/Sep/11 Lead
cragtyke 17/Sep/11 2nd
Hjort 17/Sep/11 2nd O/S
with Jake Roberts, Emlyn Roberts
emlynroberts 17/Sep/11 Lead

Tougher than it looks from the ground

with Jacob Roberts, Toby Vye
Gazleah 17/Sep/11 Solo O/S
with serge
hazeysunshine 16/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Helen L
Hidden 10/Sep/11 Lead O/S
marcoleptic 01/Sep/11 2nd
biobuild 01/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Keendan 29/Aug/11 Solo rpt
t_hume 28/Aug/11 Lead
btc 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Vik
Johnny Rowland 27/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 27/Aug/11 2nd
lozowen 19/Aug/11 Solo
Brown 16/Aug/11 Solo
with Solo
chisanga 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Graham
Becky E 09/Aug/11 2nd
with Marilyn
Hidden 07/Aug/11 Lead
Adrianw 07/Aug/11 2nd
sarah hawker 07/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with james nmc, Adrian W
Pero 01/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 01/Aug/11 Lead O/S
vincentchopper 24/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Must have been a terrifying lead.

with Harry Wright
SEANH27 24/Jul/11 2nd O/S
iamstebarker 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
pog100 23/Jul/11 Lead
with Cath Walton
Chaz2512 23/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
matbrown333 10/Jul/11 Lead
martinbettridge06 ?/Jul/11 Lead
david harvey ?/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with martin
Karlos ?/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Neil Rodgers (PCC) 28/May/11 2nd

Hard for grade, but not as bad as I remember when I tried to lead it.

with micksissons, Rosa Vilaseca
Hidden 28/May/11 2nd
Hidden 27/May/11 2nd rpt
skwiddy 21/May/11 2nd O/S
with Dave Prendergast
Hidden 17/May/11 Lead rpt
robhorton 15/May/11 Lead
steve2006 15/May/11 2nd
99bolivar 10/May/11 2nd
with Chris Fitzhugh
Carl Hanaghan 02/May/11 Lead
with Grant
Hidden 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S
tiga271 29/Apr/11 Lead
murrayd 29/Apr/11 2nd O/S
jasoncash 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S
pc1983 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S

I'm sure this is much easier if your crack climbing ability is up to scratch. Now I know how it is done properly I'd like to do it again.

Hidden 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
joscott 23/Apr/11 2nd
GrahamHP 22/Apr/11 Lead
with Tony Walentowicz
tony wood 22/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Tony W, Gav, Graham
chris smith 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
RichardMc 17/Apr/11 Lead
with Dave Coles
Montecore 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Not really clean as I part sat on the rope trying to wrangle cams off a krab...

with Allen Abramson
mick shocks 26/Mar/11 Lead
oddessy_uk 19/Mar/11 TR O/S
Hidden 14/Mar/11 2nd
Peakology 10/Mar/11 Lead O/S

great crack

with cat
Chalky Cat 10/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Dom
shaky2 08/Mar/11 Lead
Hidden 23/Jan/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Jan/11 -
zassy 09/Jan/11 2nd O/S
tombushell ??/2011 Lead
AielSavage ??/2011 Lead O/S
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden 30/Oct/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Oct/10 -
armouredego ?/Oct/10 Lead O/S
part.tom ?/Oct/10 2nd O/S
glennofsheff 12/Sep/10 Lead rpt

tried this route 3times before and failed each time .keen to try again to see if climbing has improved in last 8 months. thankfully it has. felt quite easy this try , altho still tough for hs i feel. strenuous,balancy , solid jamming needed. bombproof gear throughout. 2* route .

Keendan 04/Sep/10 2nd rpt
ElvisLeg 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Daniel Heath
Andrew Bangs 30/Aug/10 2nd dog

Tried to lead and couldn't make the jams work for me and got pumped doing it wrong. Down climbed and seconded it. Messed that up, too, but got there in the end! Nothing wrong with the climb.

robjc89 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S

midges started coming out

with Tom Houston
Oliver Branagan 29/Aug/10 Solo O/S


eel 19/Aug/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/10 2nd
PhillS 15/Aug/10 Lead dnf

I tired myself out trying to get onto the upper ledge... must practice jamming more.

with Paul S
PhillS 15/Aug/10 2nd β
with Paul S
simeclimb68 14/Aug/10 Solo rpt
Hidden 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/10 2nd O/S
krikoman 18/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Nice Jamming at the top. good climb 8/10

ed_1973 17/Jul/10 Lead
Kirsty 17/Jul/10 2nd
PaulGreenhead 17/Jul/10 2nd
with J D Fisher, Kirsty
tradguy 17/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Andy Hardy 11/Jul/10 2nd
fleapitfan 10/Jul/10 2nd β
Hidden 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/10 TR
pete1993 31/May/10 -
RichardMc 30/May/10 Lead
with Tony Williams
bjlsmith 23/May/10 2nd
with Tino, Adam and ODL
Hidden 22/May/10 2nd
Lumbering Oaf 22/May/10 Lead O/S

First climb on my first time at Birchen.

Jonathan Hall 21/May/10 Solo
Hidden 15/May/10 Lead rpt
Slarti B 02/May/10 Lead dog

spent too long placing gear at top and left arm got pumpeddead. Slumped on gear when tried to use it!

with Natalio
natalio 02/May/10 2nd O/S
with Stephen
Tithe Technique 21/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Martin Stevens 18/Apr/10 Lead rpt

Says HS 4b in Rockfax. Three threads are all you need (all I used, anyway) and the HS grade reflects that well, I think. A little awkward to place some of the slings.

with Bob B.
Hidden 12/Apr/10 2nd
tiga271 11/Apr/10 Lead
with mark20, Dave
J25 09/Apr/10 Lead dnf
Rampikino 04/Apr/10 2nd
with Cat
Hidden ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Keendan 28/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/10 Lead
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 -
phja 10/Oct/09 Lead dog
with Adrian
Hidden 08/Oct/09 2nd
ajc 28/Sep/09 Lead rpt
jack01 27/Sep/09 TR
valentinesbabe 27/Sep/09 2nd O/S

I was expecting this to be harder as the other three had struggled before me. Maybe just cos I like jamming but also I was more balanced as I'd put my foot out to the right at the base of the crack.

charley 27/Sep/09 2nd O/S

Kevs lead

with Jack, Ange, Peter, MarkB, Kev
Tithe Technique 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Jack, Peter Ziak, Ange, Charley
garethb 23/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/09 -
mick1jones 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Dave Wilkinson
JessBrown 16/Aug/09 2nd
Hidden 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/09 2nd
Alkis 06/Aug/09 2nd O/S
cpoad 02/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Paul R
paulerussell 02/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Jul/09 Lead
Steven Andrews 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Rachel Berkowitz
SteWatkins ?/Jul/09 -
fatbuoybazza 27/Jun/09 Lead β
Jeronimo 19/Jun/09 Solo
Hidden 18/Jun/09 TR
markbenton 16/Jun/09 Lead
Milne 16/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with cooper
Ben_Bullbridge 16/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Milne
Hidden 13/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Hexman 11/Jun/09 Lead
with Hannah
Hidden 24/May/09 Lead
Chris Craggs 20/May/09 Lead

Hard Severe and hard for that!

with Dave Gregory
jdgaventa 02/May/09 Lead
with katy
edmitchell 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S
morrisdaboss 26/Apr/09 2nd rpt
with JB
john.gaffney 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Strenuous and a bit awkward to place gear in the crack in difficult positions. Enjoyable non the less.

with Peter Morrisdaboss
climbinmunkey 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Great Route! Managed to make it a bit harder by using face 'holds' rather that jamming. Gear absolutely bomber though. Looking forward to going back and jamming the crack :)

with Helen
EdShep 03/Jan/09 2nd O/S
with Pilch
Pilch 03/Jan/09 Lead O/S
with Ed
Hidden ??/2009 Lead
RM199 ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 -
cem 21/Dec/08 Lead O/S
with Pete Horn, Rob Truckle
dunk 28/Nov/08 2nd
with rocktigger
rocktigger 28/Nov/08 Lead O/S
with Dunc
Becky E 26/Oct/08 Lead
morrisdaboss 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Cecile
howlingbaboon 05/Oct/08 2nd rpt
elCapitano 02/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Cheese
Hidden 14/Sep/08 Lead O/S
simoncov 14/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Warren
Hidden 13/Sep/08 2nd rpt
Ugly Kid Jo 31/Aug/08 Lead

We got midged off the rocks after this climb.

with Ruth
mark v 30/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Colin Stuart
Hidden 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/08 Solo O/S
PanzerHanzler 17/Aug/08 2nd rpt
Ann S 14/Aug/08 2nd
with Chris Tan
Hidden 27/Jul/08 2nd
Hidden 27/Jul/08 Lead O/S
mark20 20/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Seconded a long time ago, cannot remember the moves so will claim the onsight. Good jamming, HS 4b.

alexrankine30 20/Jul/08 2nd
with Mark
Hidden 13/Jul/08 Lead
RiPomc 24/May/08 2nd

I need to improve my hand jamming!

with Steve Grey
JCookie 24/May/08 -
with Steve Grey
Hidden 24/May/08 Lead O/S
MJ28 19/May/08 2nd

Tricky beast even to second, defo HS 4b.

with Barry Stone
Ed Throp ?/May/08 Lead O/S
stevepotter 27/Apr/08 Lead
with chris
argyle_dude 27/Apr/08 Lead O/S

v. enjoyable climb, though more accurately described as an HS in eastern grit. Had a slighty iffy moment with a less than satisfactory hand jam but otherwise good.

with smlee84
Hidden 22/Apr/08 2nd rpt
roberto18 16/Apr/08 Lead
with Dad (Mike Bridges)
Hidden 13/Apr/08 2nd
mikej 12/Feb/08 2nd
with Rick Naylor
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 Lead dog
Hidden 11/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Mike Soulby ?/Nov/07 TR O/S
Reaver2k 16/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Really enjoyed this and thought it is one of the most under-rated climbs I've ever done it, I would give it 2 stars if not 3! Fantastic hand-jamming moves all the way up from the ledge onwards (getting over the chock is also very fun!). Quite technical for a HS jamming crack but perfect jams all the way up, can put in as much gear as you want and there is one or two bomber threads! Upper section's jams are especially good! Spent almost as long as it took me to fly up it to place the final irrelivent nut! Ohwell! Matt seemed to enjoy it nearly as much as me! But is not as keen on hand-jamming and arrived at the top with super pumped arms! Think I'm really getting the hang of this hand jamming, bring on The File!

matthewjames 16/Sep/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/07 TR
Somerset swede basher 08/Sep/07 Solo O/S
with Sarah, Abi and Dave
Hidden 08/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/07 2nd
simoncov 11/Aug/07 Lead O/S

My first hand-jamming lead, but excellent pro (three threads!)

with LJ
Hidden 04/Aug/07 Lead rpt
RachelP 02/Aug/07 Lead O/S
tommytwotone ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/07 Solo O/S
popebenedictus 30/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Powder Puff Girl 30/Jul/07 2nd O/S
with Ben H
RichardMc 29/Jul/07 Lead
with Tony Williams
howlingbaboon 14/Jul/07 2nd rpt
with Stu
Hidden 14/Jul/07 2nd
mr random ?/Jul/07 -
Dr Caterpillar 28/Jun/07 2nd O/S
with Roy Hann
howlingbaboon 11/Apr/07 Lead rpt
adam carless 28/Jan/07 Solo O/S
AlisonSmiles 13/Jan/07 2nd
with Carl Pulley
Hidden ??/2007 -
Pete Graham ??/2007 Solo
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
Alfredo ?/Nov/06 Lead
Hidden 22/Oct/06 2nd O/S
PanzerHanzler 08/Oct/06 Lead rpt
with David Rafe
PanzerHanzler 01/Oct/06 2nd O/S
with Robert Butcher
victim of mathematics 30/Sep/06 Lead O/S
AJ007 23/Sep/06 Solo
Pythonist 22/Sep/06 Solo O/S
with JdP
davidwright 10/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Sep/06 2nd
Another James 10/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Kirsten S
BazVee 13/Aug/06 2nd
with Martin
Hidden 01/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Chris Davids 26/Jul/06 Solo O/S
naughtybadboy 23/Jul/06 Lead
gibbo38 23/Jul/06 2nd
with brian
Milne 01/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Ned
Whealiebob 01/Jul/06 2nd
with Ned
Hidden 01/Jul/06 2nd O/S
aled.sage 24/Jun/06 Lead
with Alice Cruickshank
climbingrev 07/Jun/06 Lead O/S

Nice Crack climb at top, with intersting finish: brilliant gear.

with Rick Howard
Hidden 03/Jun/06 2nd
Hidden 01/Jun/06 2nd rpt
Caralynh 01/Jun/06 Lead
with Iain Simpson
Fraser Hughes ?/Jun/06 2nd
Hidden 31/May/06 Lead dog
rambler_gary 28/May/06 TR O/S
with Chicks
howlingbaboon ?/May/06 Lead O/S
with Ruthy
paul birch ?/May/06 -
Hidden 15/Apr/06 2nd
baldcoder 14/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Little Old Lady
lewis 09/Apr/06 Lead O/S

More Like VS.

with Graham
Hidden 09/Apr/06 Lead dnf
Graeme Hammond 09/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with lewis
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
John Lisle ??/2006 -
tiga271 ??/2006 2nd

with mark

with Dave
Nicos 20/Dec/05 Solo O/S
with solo
RichardMc 13/Nov/05 Lead
with Graham Waddington
Hidden 12/Nov/05 Lead
Hidden 16/Oct/05 Lead
Hidden 02/Oct/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/05 2nd
Hidden 08/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Caralynh 08/Aug/05 2nd
mooseloose 08/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Maria
dp1 23/May/05 2nd
with dan bell
donkster ?/Jan/05 Lead O/S
MikeDowsett ??/2005 Lead
with Kris Scheinkonig
dannyboy83 ?/Oct/04 Solo O/S
colin milton 26/Sep/04 2nd
with Dave V
Alastair Hudson 20/Jun/04 Lead
with Suzie Rickeard
Rampikino 20/Jun/04 Lead
with Liz Hay
julian allen 28/Dec/03 Lead O/S
SteveM 11/Oct/03 Lead
with Bekhs
LankyPaddy 19/Sep/03 Solo O/S
Ropeboy 13/Sep/03 Solo
gripped01 ?/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with Gordon Thompson
Hidden ?/Jul/03 Lead
DerwentDiluted 14/Jun/03 Lead
Hidden 27/May/03 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/May/03 -
Hidden 01/Apr/03 Lead O/S
Ben lad 18/Sep/02 -
Hidden 15/Sep/02 Lead
Hidden 07/Sep/02 2nd O/S
climbingrev 25/Aug/02 Lead O/S

Described in OPR as terrifying - I would suggest merely thought provoking! Quite bold lead, a few tentative jams

Hidden ?/Jul/02 2nd
agagsgrot ?/Jul/02 Lead O/S
with Gary
Mark Stevenson 24/May/02 Solo O/S
gripped01 ?/Oct/01 Lead O/S
with Simon and Di
John Brayshaw 10/Sep/00 Lead rpt
with Caroline Young
Hidden 03/Sep/00 Lead
Mark Riley ?/Sep/00 Lead O/S
Laramadness 28/Apr/00 Lead
with Matt Lawson
Hidden 12/Mar/00 2nd
D Berry 12/Mar/00 Lead O/S
with Claire Berry
Hidden 05/Sep/99 2nd O/S
ajc 22/Aug/99 Lead O/S
Katie Weston ?/Aug/99 2nd
rlrs ??/1999 Lead
craig d ??/1999 -
jfmchivall ??/1999 -
jfmchivall ??/1999 -
chris sm 26/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
roncaves 22/Aug/98 Solo
Ian Archer 18/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with CDW
chris d williams 18/Aug/98 -
Malpractise 17/Aug/98 -
nigehughes ?/Jul/98 Lead
with Roger John
ajoliver 26/Apr/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/98 Solo O/S
kato'sdad 05/Jul/97 Lead
RobSimmo 05/Jul/97 2nd O/S
five ?/Jul/97 Lead O/S
Rog Wilko ?/Jun/96 Lead

Thought this was worth VS 4c

with Debbie Wilkinson
Hidden ??/1996 -
andrewbooth1000 07/Jun/95 2nd
atch ?/May/95 Lead
andrewbooth1000 30/Oct/94 TR
Hidden 31/May/94 Solo
timreynolds 02/May/93 Lead
with Eric Sneyd
Hidden 17/Aug/92 Solo
charlesmfrench 28/Jun/92 Solo O/S
Roget 01/Feb/92 Solo O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/91 -
Chris Ellis 19/May/91 Lead
with Mike Guy
nai ??/1991 Lead
Hidden 13/Oct/90 Solo
Laramadness 06/Aug/90 Solo O/S
Martin Bennett 22/Jul/90 -
with Tim
lithos ?/Mar/90 Solo
fellgazelle ??/1990 Lead
with Alan Haigh
Marti999 ??/1990 Lead
Hidden ??/1990 Lead
Yourlead ?/Sep/88 Lead
with Ric Gregory
tapley 27/Jul/88 Lead
with Tony Raphael
andy tetsill ?/May/88 Lead
with whitehall instructing
RichardMc 31/Oct/87 Solo
with Jon Clifford-Smith
Hidden ?/Jun/87 Lead
babymoac 23/May/87 -
with MTW
Iain Thow 20/May/87 Lead
with Steve Ball, Phil Moorey
RichardMc 05/Apr/87 Lead
with Tim Oakes
Hidden ??/1987 -
Hidden 20/May/86 Lead
Hidden 15/Sep/85 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/85 Solo
dodders 27/Mar/85 Lead
with Sandra
Hidden ??/1985 2nd
malc 25/May/83 2nd
Ena ?/Sep/82 Lead
with Martin Trouse
John Brayshaw 14/Apr/82 Lead O/S
with Alfreton MC
mark-abz 19/Nov/81 TR
Nigel Bond 04/Mar/81 Lead
with Danny
Hidden 21/Dec/80 Solo
CrashMat Rob ??/1980 Lead O/S


Chris Terrey ??/1979 Solo
MikeDowsett ??/1978 Lead
RichardMc 06/Nov/77 Lead
with Martin Stanton
RichardMc 17/Jul/77 Solo
RichardMc 17/Jul/77 Solo
RichardMc 21/May/77 Solo
Nigel Bond 05/Dec/76 Lead
with Tony Cuddy
uphillnow ??/1976 Solo
petemeads ??/1976 Solo
Mark Kemball 09/Nov/75 Lead
RichardMc 19/Oct/75 Lead
with John Antill
Gordon Stainforth 30/Aug/75 Lead
with Richard Gatehouse
Hidden 26/Feb/74 Lead
mikej 24/Feb/74 Solo
with John Kendrick, E
mikej 27/May/73 Solo
with E
mikej 04/May/69 Solo
with Wil Hurford
Andy Say ??/1969 Lead
mikej 06/Oct/68 Solo
mikej 31/Mar/68 Solo
mikej 08/Oct/67 Solo
mikej 17/Jul/66 2nd
with Keith Gregson
mikej 10/May/66 Lead
with Chris Thompson
mikej 18/Jul/65 TR
with Barry Regan, Ted Markham
15 users have this on their wishlist
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 61
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 59
Votes cast 89
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set