UKC Logbook - Birchen Edge 1981 guide routes

Contributed by steveb2006 Mar/20 - This public ticklist has been seen 2,535 times

All Birchen Edge routes from the 1981 Derwent Valley guide. Having done the great majority back in the 80's it became a vague ambition to comlete them all. For this list Midshipman is the original HVS version - finishing R. Peaches gets a passing mention in the guide as an 'unsubtantiated claim' so isnt listed here.

Found bits of this difficult, but managed it. © Dimart — Found bits of this difficult, but managed it.
© Dimart, Jun 2013

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	User	Percentage	Latest Log
1st	Hidden	99%	2 Jul
2nd	mikej	94%	Mar, 2022
3rd	Hidden	75%	9 Aug, 2023
4th	Hidden	63%	24 Apr
5th	Chris Pearson	61%	9 Apr, 2002
6th	Hidden	7%	14 May, 2023

Map of routes in this ticklist

Least routes Most routes

Wishlist Routes

Logged Routes

Darken logged

Cluster markers

Distribution of grades

Trad

Bouldering

Top 12 photos of this ticklist

The serene face of a dyno on Orpheus Wall showing off the latest in tutu hardware

Christine Leads Yo Ho Crack whilst Mary, belaying, nonchalantly practices her finger jamming technique

Getting your barnacles up the bulge ain't as straight forward as first thought.

Making the static move through the crux on Orpheus Wall

Julian leading Camperdown Crawl (VS 4c), Birchen Edge, Peak District

Trafalgar wall. Warm down fun S 4b. Birchen.

William Marshall (5) climbing The Gangplank

Add	Climb name	Grade	Ticks?	Height		Crag name
1	Bosun's Nose	S 4c	242	?		Birchen Edge
2	Bosun's Crack	VD	420	4m		Birchen Edge
3	Bosun's Wall	HVD 4a	326	5m		Birchen Edge
4	The Gangplank	M *	1264	10m		Birchen Edge
5	Visitors Only	HS 4a *	748	8m		Birchen Edge
6	All Aboard	D	733	6m		Birchen Edge
7	Poop Deck Crack	S 4a	510	12m		Birchen Edge
8	The Crow's Nest	VS 4c **	1467	14m		Birchen Edge
9	Land Ho!	HS 4c *	283	12m		Birchen Edge
10	Scrim Net	f6A **	229	12m		Birchen Edge
11	The Funnel	D *	846	12m		Birchen Edge
12	Lookout Arête	S 4a *	402	12m		Birchen Edge
13	Kiss Me Hardy	HVD 4a *	953	12m		Birchen Edge
14	Victory Crack	HS 4b *	1230	14m		Birchen Edge
15	Victory Gully	S 4a *	510	12m		Birchen Edge
16	Emma's Slab	VS 4b *	1050	14m		Birchen Edge
17	Emma's Dilemma	S 4a *	2328	14m		Birchen Edge
18	Emma's Temptation	HVD 4c *	2090	14m		Birchen Edge
19	Emma's Delight	HS 4b *	1279	14m		Birchen Edge
20	Deluded	VS 4c *	464	12m		Birchen Edge
21	Emma's Delusion	S 4a *	810	12m		Birchen Edge
22	Artificial	VD	207	?		Birchen Edge
23	Oak Gully	M	129	?		Birchen Edge
24	Oak Tower	VD	81	?		Birchen Edge
25	Heather Corner	M	53	?		Birchen Edge
26	Heather Corner Slab	M	57	?		Birchen Edge
27	The Rigging	D	72	?		Birchen Edge
28	Captain's Bunk	HS 4b *	1129	12m		Birchen Edge
29	Captain's Crawl	M	275	?		Birchen Edge
30	Telescope Tunnel	M **	865	14m		Birchen Edge
31	Porthole Buttress	S 4a *	509	24m		Birchen Edge
32	Porthole Direct	VS 4c **	2042	12m		Birchen Edge
33	Blind Eye	S 4b *	401	14m		Birchen Edge
34	Nelson's Slab	HS 5a *	1062	14m		Birchen Edge
35	Left Ladder Chimney	VD	324	12m		Birchen Edge
36	Spliced	S 4a	23	?		Birchen Edge
37	Right Ladder Chimney	HVD 4a	217	12m		Birchen Edge
38	Midshipman / Plain Sailing	E2 6a ***	160	12m		Birchen Edge
39	Nor'-easter	HVS 5a	29	?		Birchen Edge
40	Sail Buttress	HS 4b **	3373	14m		Birchen Edge
41	Sail Chimney	S 4a **	1727	14m		Birchen Edge
42	Topsail	VS 4c **	4194	12m		Birchen Edge
43	Spinnaker	VS 5a	29	14m		Birchen Edge
44	Monument Chimney Crack	VD *	840	14m		Birchen Edge
45	Monument Chimney	D *	1075	14m		Birchen Edge
46	Pillar Wall	S 4a	244	14m		Birchen Edge
47	The Bow	S 4a *	563	14m		Birchen Edge
48	Orpheus Wall	HVS 5c **	871	14m		Birchen Edge
49	Monument Gully	VD *	435	14m		Birchen Edge
50	Monument Gully Buttress	HVS 5b *	633	8m		Birchen Edge
51	The Keel	HVS 5b *	282	8m		Birchen Edge
52	The Boom	HVS 5a	3	90m	• 3	Birchen Edge
53	The Promenade	D **	1923	16m		Birchen Edge
54	The Promenade Direct	HVD 4a *	1315	10m		Birchen Edge
55	The Chain	S 4a *	1120	12m		Birchen Edge
56	Hollybush Gully	VD 4b *	577	10m		Birchen Edge
57	Anchor Traverse	HS 4b *	340	12m		Birchen Edge
58	Powder Monkey Parade	S 4b **	2721	16m		Birchen Edge
59	Hangover	HVS 5b	118	12m		Birchen Edge
60	Admiral's Progress	D *	794	12m		Birchen Edge
61	Polaris Exit	D *	358	12m		Birchen Edge
62	Camperdown Crawl	HS 4c **	3050	14m		Birchen Edge
63	Barnacle Bulge	HS 4c *	1603	14m		Birchen Edge
64	Trafalgar Crack	VD 4a *	4105	14m		Birchen Edge
65	Trafalgar Wall	S 4b **	3633	12m		Birchen Edge
66	The Long Promenade	HS 4b *	83	50m		Birchen Edge
67	Sailor's Crack	S 4b *	473	4m		Birchen Edge
68	Sailor's Problem	VD	1000	6m		Birchen Edge
69	Reef Knot	S 4b *	966	6m		Birchen Edge
70	Nautical Crack	VD *	1602	6m		Birchen Edge
71	Yo-Ho Crack	VD *	2486	6m		Birchen Edge
72	Rum Wall	VD	1146	6m		Birchen Edge
73	Stoker's Break	VD	1274	6m		Birchen Edge
74	Stoked	S 4a *	1745	6m		Birchen Edge
75	Copenhagen Corner	S 4b	598	4m		Birchen Edge
76	Dane's Delight	HS 5b *	893	6m		Birchen Edge
77	Copenhagen Wall	VS 5a *	677	10m		Birchen Edge
78	Copenhagen Wall Traverse	V0	41	?		Birchen Edge
79	Mast Gully	M	326	10m		Birchen Edge
80	Mast Gully Ridge	VD *	740	10m		Birchen Edge
81	Mast Gully Wall	VD 4b	231	?		Birchen Edge
82	Mast Gully Crack	HS 4b *	373	10m		Birchen Edge
83	Mast Gully Buttress	VS 5a *	305	12m		Birchen Edge
84	Fo'c'sle Chimney	VD *	394	12m		Birchen Edge
85	Fo'c'sle Wall	VS 4c *	597	12m		Birchen Edge
86	Fo'c'sle Crack	S 4b *	1155	12m		Birchen Edge
87	Fo'c'sle Arête	VS 5b *	148	10m		Birchen Edge
88	Cave Gully	VD *	149	10m		Birchen Edge
89	Tar's Arête	VD 4a *	619	10m		Birchen Edge
90	Tar's Crack	VD *	738	8m		Birchen Edge
91	Tar's Wall	HVD 4b	839	8m		Birchen Edge
92	Tar's Traverse	D	476	10m		Birchen Edge
93	Tar's Climb	M	379	8m		Birchen Edge
94	Tar's Gully	D	613	10m		Birchen Edge
95	Prow Wall	M	362	8m		Birchen Edge
96	Barbette Wall	S 4a	224	6m		Birchen Edge
97	Barbette Buttress	S 4b *	579	6m		Birchen Edge
98	Cannonball Crack	S 3c	149	8m		Birchen Edge
99	Cannonball Wall	VD *	662	10m		Birchen Edge
100	Gunner's Gangway	D	454	10m		Birchen Edge
101	Lieutenant's Ladder	D	284	10m		Birchen Edge
102	Middy's Manoeuvre	HS 4c *	217	6m		Birchen Edge
103	Torpedo Tube	HVD 4a *	335	6m		Birchen Edge
104	Gunner's Groove	D	388	6m		Birchen Edge
105	Seasick Arête	f5 **	661	8m		Birchen Edge
106	Seasick Slab	f3+ *	877	8m		Birchen Edge
107	Moby Dick	S 4a	210	10m		Birchen Edge
108	Old Codger	VS 4c *	111	10m		Birchen Edge
109	Wooden Leg Wall	HVS 5c *	80	10m		Birchen Edge
110	Matelot's Meander	S 4a	179	8m		Birchen Edge
111	Yard Arm	V0-	46	7m		Birchen Edge
112	Explosion	VS 5a *	244	6m		Birchen Edge
113	Fuse	VS 5a *	394	12m		Birchen Edge
114	Gun-Cotton Groove	VD *	699	12m		Birchen Edge
115	Cook's Rib	E1 5c *	204	12m		Birchen Edge
116	Horatio's Horror	HS 4a **	767	14m		Birchen Edge
117	Horatio's Direct	VS 4c *	260	12m		Birchen Edge
118	Nelson's Nemesis	VS 4b ***	1258	16m		Birchen Edge
119	Victory Vice	VD *	194	12m		Birchen Edge
120	Device	HVS 4c	198	10m		Birchen Edge
121	Gunpowder Gully	D	162	12m		Birchen Edge
122	Gunpowder Gully Arête	S 3c	210	12m		Birchen Edge
123	Sea Dog Slab	VD	190	5m		Birchen Edge
124	Sailor's Chute	HVD 4a	92	8m		Birchen Edge
		3 e, 97 stars	93,501	1,309m	126