Rockfax Description
Climb the thin crack just right of the arete to reach the leaning wall and a horizontal slot. Good cams here protect the bewildering moves to jugs (hint - it is all about what you do with your legs). Make a prompt exit to easy ground. Almost E1, the route is one of the most frigged in the Peak and sadly the runner placements are suffering because of this. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1950

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, All trad climbs at Birchen Edge, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS).

Mark Duncan 06/Sep Lead rpt

Tried to do it with left foot up, which I did the first time I climbed it, but couldn't seem to figure it out and ended up needing to rest. Got it second go with a dyno

with Darya
milena 20/Aug Lead O/S

Great moves! Left heel on, locked off with my right hand in the pocket above the break.

with Ellie
Alex Riley 17/Aug Lead O/S

Good fun

amccann 12/Aug Lead O/S
with Tilly
vincentchopper 29/Jul 2nd O/S
cjbaker 29/Jul Lead O/S
loonylovegood93 15/Jul 2nd dog
RM199 15/Jul Lead dog
mrethan6000 09/Jul Lead O/S
tonto169 01/Jul Lead
rocksol 25/Jun Solo

left leg in horizontal easy reach for jug

Lukem6 25/Jun Lead O/S

with dyno

with Aidie
partz 25/Jun Lead O/S

Fantastic route

Alex Wade 25/Jun 2nd
Hidden 04/Jun Lead RP
Oscar Popels 03/Jun Lead RP

I tried initially and spent a long time placing gear/working out the move/getting pumped. After a bit of lunch and a rest I lead it cleanly with no problems. Lovely route.

JoeFoster59 03/Jun Lead G/U

Not the best of style tried it twice in full sun worked out the move and gently weighted the gear. Then later after oscars ascent while it was still cloudy and cool I lead it with his pre-placed gear. I dont if this detracts from the route as the gear is pretty easy to place once you know what it is but its all about that move. Really fun move perfectly safe. onsighting it would be hard. Surprisingly pumpy. I'd definitely do it again placing the gear if I came back. Cool move.

with Oscar
Hidden 27/May 2nd
matt1024 27/May Lead rpt
goddamm7 30/Apr TR dnf
Andy Fielding 30/Apr TR
ned_85 19/Apr 2nd
with Scott Marc Berry
robert-hutton 13/Apr 2nd
Droyd 08/Apr Lead dnf

I want to blame the heat, but cowardice is the real problem

with Lucy, Henry
James Oakes 04/Apr Solo O/S
with Dan Middleton, Georgia Townend
hellboundblr 02/Apr Lead dog

One rest at crux. Changed hand sequence and went fine.

with Will Szott
southern_smit 01/Apr Lead
Mr Wild 08/Mar Lead O/S


Rob_Morris1996 04/Mar 2nd dnf
themattyshep 04/Mar Lead O/S

HARD but good holds and gear hence HVS

with Rob M
Rob Gillespie 19/Feb Lead O/S
Owen Diba 05/Feb Lead O/S
gtaylor997 05/Feb 2nd RP
LastBoyScout ??/2017 -
Jonny Holmes 27/Dec/16 AltLd
with Joe Cossey
Roberttaylor 05/Nov/16 Lead O/S
AndyRogers 03/Nov/16 2nd dog

Took a few tries before I made the big reach. Dyno wasn't working so I managed a weird rock over into a sideways foot jam with some lay backy pressy weirdness thrown in.

with Max
Andy Moles 27/Oct/16 Solo

Tried crux a few different ways, one big dynamic move seems the easiest. Hardest move I've done on an HVS (outside the County).

dr_botnik 24/Oct/16 Lead dnf
with Mike W
Mike W 23/Oct/16 Lead O/S
GregJones17 23/Oct/16 2nd dog
Neilaw 22/Oct/16 Lead dog
with Simon
Stroppy 22/Oct/16 Solo β

Spicy - watched 3 people do it 3 different ways and picked my favourite

with SUMC
Dan Hostford 15/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with LSMC
hirving 18/Sep/16 Lead dnf

Tried to do the technical way then bottled the big move. One to come back to when feeling a bit fresher/stronger

matt1024 04/Sep/16 Lead dog

Hard to onsight. Ok with beta (given mid-route).

matt1024 04/Sep/16 2nd rpt
cameron_hall 04/Sep/16 Lead dog

Even with the beta it seemed pretty impossible at first! After feeling like I just couldn't move, I got the crux once I discovered that a bit of a hop was necessary to sort out my body position. It's a great route and I need to come back and do it properly.

Kemics 15/Aug/16 Lead

Got to the break but spent ages trying to faff gear as both the quickdraw biners were half over the edge. Threaded a sling but then was pumped out of my mind from hanging on. Tried the sneaky awkward beta, but in the end was just easier to thug through. Big move but not a dyno. Extremely hard to onsight....very easy to redpoint :)

with Hebe
Dale Comley 14/Aug/16 Solo O/S
sann1458 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Brightwell
jungle 06/Aug/16 2nd dog
with Paul Mcarthy
Hidden 04/Aug/16 2nd
CJSuttz 04/Aug/16 Lead dog
Calum Wadsworth 31/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Blimey, packs a punch!

with Emma
steve-grigg 31/Jul/16 Lead dog
watson.b 12/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Tony
Tony Myers 12/Jul/16 2nd O/S
kingfionnbharr 26/Jun/16 Lead
mikecollins 29/May/16 Lead O/S
LanceSolf 28/May/16 Lead dnf

Blew out placing shit gear, then saw good easy gear placements. Then lacked the balls to make the big move over the crux. Not happy with myself.

with Lee Packer
LanceSolf 28/May/16 2nd dog

Blew out earlier trying to lead it. Got it on second but hang dogged the whole way. One for the future.

with Lee Packer
Mike505 14/May/16 Lead RP

Dogged this a year ago and skipped the crux with a dyno. Came back and clean it up with a little more style.

Pewtle 07/May/16 Lead dnf

Lead to the crux move on pre-placed gear left by another hopeful. Got the crux move ok so it isn't height dependent (5ft5!), but too pumped and too greasy to do anything other than place a cam and hang off it. Need to get fitter and come back!

MatthewH 07/May/16 Lead dnf
with Phil Hartwell
a13x 30/Apr/16 TR RP
with Catherine Peake, Matthew Keeves, John Phethean, Jordan Phethean, Jessie Harris
Hidden 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Cake 30/Apr/16 2nd rpt
with Matt
Jackwd 20/Apr/16 Lead

Static and I'm 5'11" so it isn't height dependant! ;)

tom_drysdale 17/Apr/16 Lead dnf

managed the crux but fell off just after - very bouldery, got pumped out!

matildascott111 17/Apr/16 2nd
daviesp2 16/Apr/16 2nd dnf

slipped off start, gave up in disgust and licked my wounds

with Andrzej & Tom
andrzej kierzek 16/Apr/16 Lead RP

Fell of the crux on first attempt. Worked out the move, stripped the gear and did it clean.

with Paul Davies, Tom Evans
freemanTom 16/Apr/16 2nd dnf

Nails move and fingers went numb so sacked it off

with Anjay, Paul Davies
Jake Young 10/Apr/16 Lead O/S

went for the heel/undercut method. dyno's arnt my style.

with Nao
mrteale 17/Mar/16 Solo O/S

Hesitated for a while at the break trying to work out the sequence. Felt great when it went though! Happy to bag this one as the sun went down.

PeteWilson 11/Mar/16 Lead O/S

much easier than the first time i did it, just one big pull :) . dont tend to re-climb routes i've previsouly lead, but one worth doing.

with Dave
Hidden 05/Mar/16 2nd β
Andypeak 28/Feb/16 Lead dnf
Hidden ??/2016 Lead O/S
FlavioL1989 18/Oct/15 Lead β
Matt77 18/Oct/15 2nd RP

Not a good warm-up. I just couldn't work out what I was supposed to do. Did it in a oner with a slight variation of the technique Tom used.

with Dan Parker, Alex Horton, Tom Riddelsdell
TomRiddelsdell 17/Oct/15 Lead β

A 1 move wonder. Led up to the crux on Matt's gear. Definitely the hardest single move I've done on an HVS

r_o_b_h2 26/Sep/15 Lead dnf

baffled, tried at least 4 different ways.

with Sharpie, doug lishman
JamesRich 09/Sep/15 Lead dog
Stanners 09/Sep/15 Lead O/S

A great little problem with a nice bouldery start prior to the crux. On the onsight I decided on the lunge, but repeated again seconding James and found a strange lower leg mount onto the jug provided a very easy and secure static reach. Curse you mortals falling all the time and eroding the rock!

with James Rich
Clive2334 29/Aug/15 Lead dog
ned_85 26/Aug/15 Lead dnf
with Ryan Baird
The Grist 22/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Tom Doldon
xiangoh 16/Aug/15 2nd
cdpuk 07/Aug/15 Lead dog
Hidden 07/Aug/15 2nd dog
TomYates 25/Jul/15 Lead dog
James rogers86 12/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Tricky start and tricky top moves.

with Mark Duncan, Tom Frankenberg
alex goodall 26/Jun/15 2nd dog
Angus Taylor 26/Jun/15 Lead G/U

2nd attempt, awesome move through the crux

kermit_uk 25/Jun/15 Solo O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/15 Lead O/S
WillGraham1 20/Jun/15 Lead O/S
daniel heaton 20/Jun/15 TR dog
with HSX
seanlikeskites 07/Jun/15 Lead dnf
dominic lee 06/Jun/15 Solo
DavidPC ?/Jun/15 Lead
with Jamie Lilley
timreynolds 25/May/15 Lead dnf
mreynolds 25/May/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/May/15 2nd dnf
Dan Jenkin 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Lou
shaunhumphreys 08/Apr/15 Lead RP

fucksake! ok once you know how, lowered off once then let dom step up and came back for the lead later after seconding him

with Dom
dom94 08/Apr/15 Lead β
with shaun
Alkis 07/Mar/15 Lead RP
Hidden 07/Feb/15 Lead dog
Dan Geh 07/Feb/15 2nd rpt
Whipinator ?/Jan/15 Lead O/S
Whipinator ?/Jan/15 2nd O/S
Whipinator ?/Jan/15 2nd O/S
ReubenS1990 ??/2015 Lead dnf

Pulled on a couple of times only to bottle it before moving to the second horizontal crack. HARD! must come back to though.

dan_o_b ??/2015 Lead O/S
Allan Watson 06/Dec/14 Lead dog

Got pumped at the break after putting in cams and spending time trying to figure out a way to do the move. After a rest on the rope plucked up some courage to dyno from the crimp on the right.

with Connor
harry_lewis 30/Nov/14 2nd
Andypeak 01/Nov/14 Lead dnf

can't even think how you climb this.

Quarryboy 25/Oct/14 Lead O/S

One move which is just damn hard but well protected and it is all over, I can see why most HVS leaders get spanked by this.

Alkis 25/Oct/14 Lead dnf

Got back on this, finally. This time I actually got the crux without much of a problem, it turns out it's much easier facing left... :-P Unfortunately, it was raining quite a bit and the jugs at the top out were "a tad moist", even though the wall itself was dry, so I down-climbed close to the gear and dropped off.

Albachoss 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S


with Andrea
BenL 12/Oct/14 2nd O/S
with SUMC
alexanderadunn ?/Oct/14 Lead
Mark Warnett ?/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Let's be honest. This is E1. And a tough E1. It's no surprise it's the most frigged route in the peak and the gear placements are worn at this grade

Hidden 27/Sep/14 Lead dog
MTL 27/Sep/14 Lead β

Flashed using preplaced cams after leader backed off.

with James Rae, Donnie McAusland
Hidden 27/Sep/14 2nd RP
ralphio 23/Sep/14 Lead dog

Took too long placing gear so was already pumped out when I got to the crux. Had a rest on the rope and took a few go's to work out the crux move. Eventually made it with the help of a little crimp. Top end HVS in my opinion.

with Maumau
Hidden 07/Sep/14 2nd dog
nick ferro 07/Sep/14 Lead

Rested once, then found the key (for me it was a left hand jam)!

Hidden 06/Sep/14 Lead dog
TobyA 06/Sep/14 2nd dog

Felt desperate.

with TonyB
bob_cbr 31/Aug/14 2nd dnf

Maybe next year I will be strong enough to do the crux, or not.

cragsman9000 31/Aug/14 Lead RP
with Neil
dobby 200 29/Aug/14 Lead β
joedoherty 28/Aug/14 Lead dnf
Hidden 24/Aug/14 Lead dog
Mark Duncan 21/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Really nice climb. well protected for the grade. consists of 3 really nice moves, then unprotected easy slab finish. Worked the crux with a nice heel-rockover laying off right off the crack.

with sam williams
psychomansam 03/Aug/14 Lead dog

A rest and a dyno

rurp 29/Jul/14 Lead O/S

initial move is hard and takes some working out then a few more good pulls increasingly further from gear. found it harder than FBD. E1just

Hidden 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
riff156 14/Jun/14 Lead dog
quickdrawmcraw 14/Jun/14 -
Cake 25/May/14 Lead O/S

It IS 5c and probs E1

with Matt
Jackwd 20/Apr/14 Lead dnf

Really hard. Didn't quite understand how to do the big move. Tried dynoing etc... Then saw someone shove their knee in and do it like that.

Double Knee Bar 19/Apr/14 Lead RP

Powerful little number. Tricky for HVS. I'd say closer to E1

with TomBond
gingerwolf 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Glenn
Hidden 16/Apr/14 TR O/S
Ablewings 15/Apr/14 TR O/S
ianjdodd 15/Apr/14 TR dog
with Callum Wagle
DeanD 11/Apr/14 Lead
SVBiggin 05/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Rob Grant 16/Feb/14 Lead
with Dave G
Dan Geh 16/Feb/14 Lead O/S

Like a boss! Moves felt very straight forward given its reputation. Pretty reasonable at HVS, done many harder ones anyway.

AMJ098 16/Feb/14 2nd dog

Fluffed the start

with Adam White
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
MoWalker3 01/Dec/13 Lead dnf

no beta, no chance. Damp, slightly green and greasy finishing hold so probably no hope anyway.

with Krish
Hidden 01/Sep/13 2nd dnf
JimboWizbo 01/Sep/13 Lead RP

Blew the onsight but got it clean second try, awesome route, HVS but tough, must try it static next time

with Steve S, Beth
Thinker01 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
RFWilkie 01/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Kev
dan_blair87 25/Jul/13 2nd dnf

eached the jug, good left hand jam, couldnt work the side pull to gain the top hold. Hard

Hidden 17/Jul/13 Lead dog
davidalcock 16/Jul/13 Lead dnf

Oh dear! Got too pumped figuring out the bit above the break. Another day...

Hidden 29/Jun/13 TR
David Kay 08/Jun/13 Lead rpt
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jun/13 -

Very hard boulder problem at half height

with Andrew Bevan
Laramadness 21/May/13 Lead β
cherad 05/May/13 Lead dog
Anne Gumbley 28/Apr/13 2nd dog

Very dogged, with an initial leg-up then practically hauled up!

with Rich Atkinson
migs493 28/Apr/13 2nd rpt
with LO
Hidden 28/Apr/13 2nd
adam carless 14/Apr/13 Lead rpt

led through after Steve's mate ran out of steam trying the move.

with Steve Kirman
Hidden 14/Apr/13 2nd dog
Simon_Letman 07/Apr/13 Lead β
with olly
Hidden 07/Apr/13 2nd rpt
PeteWilson 07/Apr/13 Lead
with Andrew Graham
jwpil 07/Apr/13 Lead RP

stuck the dyno approach in the end, ground up.

with Ben
quickdrawmcraw 02/Mar/13 2nd
Sam Cooke 16/Feb/13 Lead rpt


with Mark Challoner
M_W_Court 04/Jan/13 Lead O/S
with Dave Luke
kabutsu ??/2013 TR

:( top roped to retrieve gear. Very, very tricky move.

tpbeckley ??/2013 Lead
Hidden ??/2013 -
karol dubas 15/Nov/12 Lead β
with Pawel
Hidden 10/Nov/12 Lead dnf
becoming-stranger 27/Oct/12 2nd dog
grp 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S
beth_may 27/Oct/12 Lead
ross brinson 27/Oct/12 Lead RP
with Hannah Watson
Wilst 01/Oct/12 2nd dog
deacondeacon 01/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Sep/12 Lead dog
Cassidy 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Goose4 10/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Goose4 10/Aug/12 Lead O/S
madasten 05/Aug/12 2nd
with Gaz
gazfellows 05/Aug/12 Lead

a wicked move up from the break to juggssssss another class JB route

with Lara, Billy
Homebrew165 23/Jul/12 2nd
Woodiee 22/Jul/12 -

Awesome, bit of a 1 move wonder route, super well protected crux (2 big cams at waist height), dead-pointed from the low pocket on the right of the undercut to the break and easy ground.

Hidden 17/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/12 Lead dnf
Nick1812P 18/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Jamie
Hidden 18/Jun/12 2nd rpt
Vnockles 17/Jun/12 2nd
will_benfold 17/Jun/12 Lead dog
Harry Thorpe 28/May/12 Lead dog

Hard move, wouldn't be a pushover at E1.

with Roxy
Hidden 13/May/12 2nd dog
Hidden 13/May/12 Lead dnf
A Crawford 07/May/12 TR
HAJ Francis 06/May/12 Lead dog

fell at crux, shouldn't have done, too much hanging about trying to find gear lower down, should have just powered through.

Alex.M-M. 06/May/12 Lead dog

Fell once making crux move. Lived up to guide book comment.

tommo1664 07/Apr/12 Lead
with Gregor Crawford
doughtyp86 07/Apr/12 TR RP

2nd attempt successful. Fairly dark too!

dan gibson 05/Apr/12 Solo rpt
CharlieMack 23/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Awesome climb, one move wonder, but still enjoyable. Feels very safe, though the move is pretty tricky.

with Jen Maxfield
Snowbones 18/Mar/12 TR O/S

Seems very hard for it's grade

Hidden 18/Mar/12 2nd dnf
Tom Seccombe 13/Mar/12 Lead O/S
shafiq lalloo 08/Mar/12 Lead dnf

soon ;)

Bruce Houston ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Coops_13 25/Feb/12 Lead RP

Worked the moves on lead then came down and led it cleanly

Hidden 25/Feb/12 2nd dog
Gcrawford ?/Feb/12 Lead
Hidden 28/Jan/12 Lead dnf
Hidden 19/Jan/12 2nd
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Nick F Smith 04/Dec/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Dec/11 2nd
Sam Cooke 19/Nov/11 2nd dog

Tricky, dogged the lead something awful

SteveHi 19/Nov/11 2nd dnf
with Nick Ellmore, Sam Cooke
Dave89 06/Nov/11 Lead dog

Didn't know what I was doing got to crux and faffed several attempts before working out the correct way lovely route though!

Rowan Mitchell 06/Nov/11 2nd β
martinazando 23/Oct/11 2nd dog
with Andrew B
geoff b 23/Oct/11 2nd
Hidden 23/Oct/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 22/Oct/11 TR
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
David Kay 15/Oct/11 Lead dog

Slippy start, got to the break and felt perplexed enough to try a dyno which failed. Committed to the sequence after resting on the ropes which ended up not being too hard!

with LUUMC
Dafydd Llywelyn 15/Oct/11 2nd
with Dave Kirstfeld, LUUMC Freshers
andrew hammond 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
jack adams 01/Oct/11 Lead rpt
with andy
pie_eater_pete 29/Sep/11 Lead O/S
mic_b 22/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Phil
ChrisBrooke 18/Sep/11 Lead rpt
with Duncan Bell
Hidden 14/Sep/11 Lead dnf
tobyk 28/Aug/11 Lead

a rest on gear before the mid-point crux. surprisingly went quite nicely - the heel hook approach. Will come back to get it clean.

Hidden 07/Aug/11 Lead dnf
Ewan Russell 18/Jun/11 Lead

2nd go. Can't believe how much easier it is with the beta!

with Mike(Dad)
liamoloughlin 28/May/11 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 17/May/11 Lead O/S
ChrisBrooke 14/May/11 Lead O/S
with Keeley Scholes
Hidden 08/May/11 Lead O/S
CrashMat Rob 27/Apr/11 Lead rpt

Glynn started I had to finish

with Glynn, Colin
robal 09/Apr/11 -
Hidden 09/Apr/11 2nd
richardr 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Easily E1.

Guy Wilson 07/Apr/11 2nd
with Gavin Moy
Lumbering Oaf 26/Mar/11 Lead dnf

Powerful layback too much - to be come back to!

Hoyes 26/Mar/11 Lead dnf
with Matt B
Hidden 12/Mar/11 2nd dog
Peakology 10/Mar/11 Lead β

fantastic climb , so pleased to have led it clean ground up

with cat
Chalky Cat 10/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Dom
ian d f 26/Feb/11 Lead dog

I'll have to come back and try it again. Annoyed I had to rest...

Tim_C7 06/Feb/11 Lead dog


with Kevin Kilroy
stevorobs3 ??/2011 2nd dog
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Danny Bags ??/2011 -
matthewjames 07/Nov/10 Lead dnf

After several different attempts at the start finally got it and straight up to the big jugs below the crux but didn't have a big enough cam to put in the left and the cam I placed on the right didn't look at all trustworthy so after hanging around for 5 minutes trying to find something better I decided to climb back down. Thanks a lot to the guy with the bouldering mat and SJB for helping me down climb safely. I'll have to come back some time soon!

with Sarah Jane Barr
will9911 06/Nov/10 Lead O/S
Aaron Hauptmann 31/Oct/10 Lead dog

Hardest route i've lead so far. Very nice moves, got pumped on the big break trying to find the best gear, wound up having to rest before taking on the crux, a shame and will come back to do it clean next time

with Danny Salvadori
Hidden 18/Sep/10 Lead
Sgt. Vest 18/Sep/10 Lead dog
with Chris Braine
Hidden 18/Sep/10 2nd dnf
dprctr 14/Sep/10 Lead dnf

Absolutely nails, Mate made it look easy

Mike_Hayes 04/Sep/10 -
Gazleah ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
haydng 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Pretty puzzling with at two different ways of doing it.

AlistairB 22/Aug/10 Lead RP

Dyno option, fine once you find the correct feet. Knackered hamstring prevented any heel shenanigans.

with Lizzie Wilkins
bigdrew 22/Aug/10 2nd dog
with Various
claregardiner 15/Aug/10 Lead
simeclimb68 14/Aug/10 Solo rpt

finally after toproping it 20 odd years ago

Hidden 12/Aug/10 Lead
llamaglama 11/Aug/10 2nd
with Jam
Hidden 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S
bigdrew 08/Aug/10 Lead dog
Matt Fry 08/Aug/10 2nd rpt
chrisbussell 03/Aug/10 Lead
with Jonny Wing
Alkis 31/Jul/10 2nd dog
with Chris Nawrat
Hardonicus 25/Jul/10 Lead dnf

Hard move, didn't get the right knee beta and had a cam in the undercut. Next time! Nick succeeded by dyno after about 6 attempts!

with nick a
Matt Fry 11/Jul/10 Lead rpt
Alistair Corbett 16/Jun/10 Lead O/S
wirralclimber1984 13/Jun/10 Lead dog
Hidden 05/Jun/10 Lead dnf
paul ireland 27/May/10 Lead β

old boy told me the trick got it second time round

jshields 05/May/10 Lead

Also done before, seconded Dave Thorpe.

BeccaSnowden 05/May/10 Lead dnf

Had several attempts, got to the break each time but couldn't hold it! What jugs? Ok maybe I'm just bad at grit climbing...

tebs 26/Apr/10 Lead O/S

A slippery start, then it's a boulder problem stuck in the middle of a vdiff really, but very good nonetheless. Found the move not too bad with good footwork.

with Jon
DaveFidler 24/Apr/10 Lead rpt

First HVS lead

with Dad
TonyF 24/Apr/10 2nd
with David
radioactivekid 24/Apr/10 2nd dnf

Very tough. Had an injured leg but I think that was just an excuse.

with Kyya
Hidden 23/Apr/10 Lead
Hidden 23/Apr/10 Lead β
Hidden 15/Apr/10 Lead dnf
Mike_Hayes 15/Apr/10 -
with Sarah Marks
Hidden 10/Apr/10 Lead dog
R Spisser 10/Apr/10 2nd β
Hidden 10/Apr/10 TR
gb83 09/Apr/10 Lead dnf

came off big style on this one. finally made the crux moves after several attempts, minor slumps and numerous body contortions then came off from just above the jug after the crux. gear ripped=big fall

with I.Killey
Julesthe1st 03/Apr/10 Lead dnf

Got to the break and hung around getting pumped trying to figure out the crux. Finally committed to the heal hook and pulled through to the final move. Arms gave up when trying to mantle onto the the ledge and took my first Trad fall (spraining wrist in process!). So close!

with Jason
Keendan 28/Mar/10 TR dog
Hidden 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Aufton ?/Mar/10 Lead dog
stephenhartley ??/2010 Lead β
Nick Eh! ??/2010 -


highlux ??/2010 -

Such a sandbag... Classic as though - for its 3 moves!

phil stubbs ??/2010 -
davefount 22/Nov/09 Lead dnf

Got to the good break and placed gear but couldn't climb the crux above-moving above off the ground isn't easy either.

chiverstom 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Bex
Hidden 17/Oct/09 Lead rpt
DannyK 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Steph, Monkey, pep, Katie
JLS 10/Oct/09 Lead dnf

Too hard for me.

with Jacqui
Jonathan Hall 08/Oct/09 2nd rpt
disturbed_one51 08/Oct/09 Lead

Great commiting crux, unfortunately very polished. Failed First attempt but got up on second attempt - serves me right for doing it after an intense morning of boulder problems

with Wee man
Rowansb ?/Oct/09 Lead dog
Hidden 25/Sep/09 Lead O/S
belay bunny turned bad 25/Sep/09 2nd
with loundsy
Jonathan Hall 22/Sep/09 Lead
honey_badger 22/Sep/09 TR dnf
with Weeman
mrtom 30/Aug/09 Lead dog


with Mark Lim
petegruf 30/Aug/09 2nd dnf
tallsop 25/Aug/09 Lead

1 fall, rate good route!

with Dave Saxby
Hidden 23/Aug/09 Lead dnf
Irn Bruce 22/Aug/09 Lead dog

Very pumped once I got to the crux so fell off. On second attempt, and despite recommendation to get my knee into the large crack, I used the finger crack to edge my right leg up and snatch for the hold - made it, but only just! Saw someone put the right knee in afterwards though and made the reach looked easy - maybe it is only HVS then!

with Ian Jenkins
Andrew Sloan 09/Aug/09 Lead dog

Dogged it, but more like top of the grade E1.

Andrew Barker 02/Aug/09 Lead

Tried once about five years ago. First try today. I'm pretty sure I've done E2 5c's that are easier than this.

Hidden 25/Jul/09 2nd RP
Martin Cleaver 25/Jul/09 Lead β
with Matt Todd
Hidden 25/Jul/09 2nd O/S
clive-greenwood 05/Jul/09 Lead dog
with Anna
AngelaC 19/Jun/09 2nd
Alan James - UKC and UKH 28/May/09 Lead
GPN 23/May/09 Lead O/S

Couldn't work out how to do it statically so dynoed for the break - a brilliant move!

Hidden 10/May/09 2nd dnf
adam carless 10/May/09 Lead O/S

I still say that getting off the floor is the 5c move (unless a cheat-stone is used). Overlap done with the "high left knee and udge upwards with left hand" method.

with Flicka
Jim Slater 23/Apr/09 2nd dog

Did hard move on second attempt.

BicepAndrews 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Steve Swan
Hidden 07/Apr/09 2nd RP
Hidden 21/Mar/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 21/Mar/09 TR
Hidden 21/Mar/09 -
mike278 12/Mar/09 Lead dog

found the crux to be the initial finger crack

with Chris
Hidden ??/2009 -
robal ??/2009 -
DaveFidler ??/2009 TR β
drysori ??/2009 Lead
keith leonard ??/2009 Lead
Hidden 01/Nov/08 TR dnf
Sandy Holford 12/Oct/08 2nd
simoncov 14/Sep/08 TR dog

Claire Smart originally attempted the lead (using my #4 camelot) but didn't quite make the move. Baldric couldn't get off the ground and Davin finally lead it through with one fall. I made the crux at the second attempt and cleaned the gear - fine on a top-rope/2nd.

with Davin
Hidden 17/Aug/08 Lead dnf
mattjam ?/Aug/08 Lead RP
with sammy d
RichT 01/Jul/08 Lead dnf

Need to try again in long trousers, when the break is dry and I'm stronger!

with Helen
masa-alpin 22/Jun/08 Lead dnf

Sooo hard! Fell repeatedly and failed to even top out. Disappointed.

Pixie-Andy 22/Jun/08 2nd dnf

I got to top rope this route in 2016 at dusk on an icy cold day. It felt like a very hard 5c based on my limited experience of seconding 5c's. Maybe 6a, maybe that's why so many can't finish it. The crux is nails if you get that far!

with Masa
Hidden 08/Jun/08 Lead dog
russonly 07/May/08 Lead RP

About my ninth attempt! Finally got it only to be told that using your right knee is easier that your left. Maybe is someone had suggested this on my first attempt... Next time I'll go with the right!

with AndyN
London Luke ?/May/08 Lead
riddle 13/Apr/08 TR RP

wet rock and i bailed out of the lead. great route though.

with Yasmina
Guy Wilson 13/Apr/08 2nd dnf
with Twisty
btc 05/Apr/08 Lead
with floris b
Pete Graham ??/2008 Lead
with Rick Graham
Hidden ??/2008 -
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Jim Walton ??/2008 -
OffshoreAndy 17/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with NCC Nic
Graeme Hammond 17/Oct/07 Lead rpt


with Phil Baxter
Twisty 14/Oct/07 TR dog

Did in preperation for lead- never did it cleanly before attemting lead- pissing wet

Twisty 14/Oct/07 Lead RP

Awesome- dripping wet finishing holds

Will Hunt 30/Sep/07 Lead RP

Very annoying. Failed the powerful move first time due tobeing too relaxed. Got it second attempt.

with Dave
skittles 29/Sep/07 2nd O/S
Somerset swede basher 15/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Good route, slippery start and a powerful pull off a small hold to reach the 2nd good break but gear is bomber. Definately worth E1.

with Sarah and Abi
Hidden 15/Sep/07 2nd dnf
Phil Jennings 24/Aug/07 Lead dnf
tradguy 29/Jul/07 2nd O/S
with Mark Hazell
HimTiggins 05/Jun/07 2nd rpt
with John, Paul
Pythonist 18/May/07 Lead O/S

Delightful hard move with great gear.

with Chris Jennions
Hidden 29/Apr/07 Lead
Hidden 22/Apr/07 2nd
climbingrick 15/Apr/07 Lead O/S
russonly 15/Apr/07 Lead dog
with Tigger
Nicos 09/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Matt Fry 04/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with Mick Swindon, Tim Lord
IanJackson 01/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Robeverybody
Oceanic ?/Apr/07 -
Hidden 30/Mar/07 TR O/S
Hidden 24/Mar/07 Lead
derico 11/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Jack
Hidden ?/Mar/07 TR
Hidden 17/Feb/07 Lead dog
Sidekick ??/2007 Lead rpt
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
Adam Moroz ??/2007 Lead
nai ?/Nov/06 2nd
with Chris
Coel Hellier 29/Oct/06 Lead dog
Hidden 14/Oct/06 TR O/S
Jack Symmons ?/Oct/06 Lead
with Dave P
colin milton 01/Sep/06 2nd
chrissloan84 20/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Stu
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 29/Jul/06 Solo O/S
Chris Davids 26/Jul/06 Lead dnf
with James
Hidden 01/Jun/06 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/May/06 Lead RP
Ronnie Concave ?/May/06 2nd

Fell off twice . Its easier using your right knee rather than the right heel on the break, looks shit though (I am told)!

with Some Guy
Ram MkiV 30/Apr/06 Lead O/S

only just got this clean. HVS? whatever

with Tristov, Alex & Parker
Hidden 18/Mar/06 2nd dog
gmatthew ??/2006 -
John Lisle ??/2006 -
Hidden 16/Oct/05 Lead
smollett ?/Oct/05 Lead

did a couple of other hvs's nearby but don't know names

Hidden ?/Oct/05 Lead O/S
Owen W-G 02/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Tom
Ben1983 ?/Aug/05 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Jul/05 Lead O/S
markbenton 28/Jun/05 AltLd
bigphil 27/Jun/05 Lead rpt
with Toby
Howard J 24/Jun/05 2nd
with Mark Ford
Scottish78 03/May/05 Lead O/S
Lev 02/May/05 Lead dnf

Both me and James tried everything we could think of but couldn't work it out.

with James Byrne
Lev 02/May/05 Lead β

Saw somebody else climb it, tried again with a dyno, got it on the first try. Awsomo!!

with James Byrne
AngelaC 01/May/05 2nd
kevp ?/May/05 Lead O/S
with Gareth Arnold
Hidden ??/2005 -
clive-greenwood 31/Oct/04 Lead O/S
with CMC
dannyboy83 ?/Oct/04 Lead O/S
with SUMC
Hidden ?/Sep/04 Lead
Hidden 15/Aug/04 Lead rpt
Budge 15/Jul/04 Lead RP
Budge 08/Jul/04 Lead dnf
tommytwotone 09/May/04 2nd O/S
with Richard Hatton
Hidden 24/Apr/04 Lead RP
petekeron ??/2004 Lead O/S
climbingrev 27/Aug/03 TR rpt

Balancey bottom two moves, heel hook onto break (!!!!), then proceed over bulge before gliding to top - that simple (?).Due to my height, had to rethink first few moves (couldn't reach finger jam). Went up left arete to break, hand traversed right, heel hooked slot, pull and reach over bulge. Top much easier if you can still breath! Excellent

CrashMat Rob 16/Jul/03 2nd

second to MartinW in bare feet

with Martin Smith, Martin Whelan, Nicky, Glynn
CrashMat Rob 29/Mar/03 Solo
with Ryan, Nicky, Glynn
Nigel Coe 22/Mar/03 2nd
with Mike Harris
CrashMat Rob 22/Mar/03 Solo
with Ryan, Martin Smith, Nicky
Macca_7 04/Jan/03 Lead O/S

Good route absolutely freezin on the hands

Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
Monk ??/2003 -
Mark Davies PK ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Laura
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/02 Lead dog
Budge 18/Jul/02 Lead dnf
Budge 11/Jul/02 Lead dnf
cem 16/Jun/02 Lead dnf
with Sally Dipple, Dave Amos
chrisrogers ?/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with Richard W
bigphil 18/Apr/02 Lead O/S
with Kate
Mark Stevenson 18/Nov/01 Lead O/S
kp64zl ?/Oct/01 TR
with Philip S
chrishedgehog 19/Jul/01 Lead
with Joe Thompson
Ropeboy 12/Jun/01 Lead

Perplexing crux

rocktigger ??/2001 TR RP
Stone Muppet ??/2001 -

first lead dyno :-)

Dave Bond ??/2001 Lead O/S
with john v
Mark Riley ?/Sep/00 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/00 TR
paul birch 11/Jun/00 -
migs493 27/May/00 2nd β
with LO
Hidden 12/Mar/00 TR
Boy ??/2000 -
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Ben
CrashMat Rob 27/Nov/99 TR
with Sahra, Miles, Martin Whelan, Nicky
CrashMat Rob 15/May/99 Lead β
with Nicky
Strong Steve 08/May/99 Lead O/S
Milne 10/Apr/99 Lead O/S

done by dyno.

with gaz wood
CrashMat Rob 04/Apr/99 Lead dog
with Nicky
craig d ??/1999 -
ajc 08/Nov/98 TR dnf
Chris Murray ?/May/98 Lead
CrashMat Rob 13/Apr/98 Lead O/S
with Nicky
goi.ashmore 08/Feb/98 Lead O/S
with Jamie
Chris Ellis ??/1998 Lead
with Martin Veale
Hidden ??/1998 Lead RP
chris sm 19/Oct/97 Lead dog
with Pippa Froggatt
The Reaper 27/Sep/97 Lead rpt
martroberts 03/Aug/97 Solo O/S

Eventual lead after falling twice slapping for the top

CrashMat Rob 08/Jun/97 Lead O/S
with Kelly's Ian
Hidden 18/May/97 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/97 Lead
The Reaper 13/Aug/94 2nd O/S
adam carless ??/1992 TR O/S
samt 27/Sep/91 Lead
with Rob Weston
samt 06/Sep/91 TR
with Louise N
Roget 09/Jul/91 Solo O/S
Hidden 06/Jul/91 TR O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/91 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Oct/90 TR
Hidden 22/May/90 TR
Marti999 ??/1990 Lead
Dave Musgrove 19/Mar/89 -
with Rupert Wyard, Pete Finklaire, Kim Greenald, David
Ian McNeill ??/1986 Lead O/S
Tim Bateman 20/Oct/85 Lead
steveb2006 02/Jun/85 Lead

Janet belays. Rest on gear, then do it again clean

Hidden 10/May/85 Lead
malc 03/Jun/84 TR dog
andy tetsill ?/Oct/83 TR
with Manchester Poly
Hidden 23/Jan/83 Lead
mark-abz 27/Apr/82 TR
Nigel Bond 04/Mar/81 TR
with Danny
CrashMat Rob ??/1980 Lead O/S


paul__in_sheffield ??/1980 Lead
Rob Davies ?/Jul/78 AltLd dnf

Date? We didn't get very far

with Angus McLean
Mark Kemball 03/Nov/77 TR
petemeads ?/Jul/76 Solo

had lead it before, was going well - did 112 routes that day...

uphillnow ??/1976 Lead

repeated on 9/10/96

with Al Bennett
rogerskews ??/1971 -
with CMC Members
Andy Say ??/1969 2nd
mikej 07/May/67 TR
with Jim Godbold, Bob Howarth
mikej 07/May/67 Lead dnf
with Jim Godbold, Bob Howarth
mikej 02/Oct/66 TR
with Nigel Sumner
mikej 23/Apr/66 TR
with Dave Williams, Ted Markham, Nigel Sumner
mikej 05/Mar/66 TR dnf
with Ted Markham
mikej 10/Oct/65 TR dnf
with Howard Furguson
mikej 18/Jul/65 2nd dnf
with Tom Proctor
Alex Mason ??/0000 Lead O/S

got well pumped in the break until i found the balancy rest to the right. powerful pull until you use your heel-toe jam to pull on which is really good. E1 5c *** definately E1 because it maybe well protected but is hard won with a series of hard varied style moves. hard won.

with christov ramsden
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