Rockfax Description
The arete has tough moves to stand on the beak at half-height. A huge jug on the ledge is helpful. © Rockfax

FA. Ken Wright 1951

Ticklists: All trad climbs at Birchen Edge.

jameslomax 19/Nov/17 2nd O/S
with Omar Shah
nathanjmasters 12/Nov/17 Lead
Jamjar 15/Oct/17 TR dnf

Climbed the slab, but that was all. Too strenuous, too tired.

with Skyline, Andy
Mr Fuller 08/Oct/17 TR rpt

Tried it on lead and found it impossible. Realised on top rope to get the gear out that the crux's crucial handhold had my cam in it.

Hidden 08/Oct/17 TR O/S
charvey 01/Sep/17 Solo O/S
timrooker 20/Aug/17 Lead O/S

opted for the belly flop and ensconce in the break, not the greatest beta to use nor the most stylish approach...

with Carla
CarlaJG 20/Aug/17 2nd
Olli-C 29/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Ryan
loonylovegood93 15/Jul/17 Lead O/S
RM199 15/Jul/17 2nd rpt
Theeni 25/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with John McEvoy
mapperley samurai 11/Jun/17 2nd
with Andy Hemsted
Manchi 20/May/17 2nd dog
with Jan
planetmarshall 14/May/17 Lead O/S
with Helen Mort
goddamm7 30/Apr/17 2nd O/S
Andy Fielding 30/Apr/17 Lead
Tommy_shaw 23/Apr/17 Lead O/S
robert-hutton 13/Apr/17 2nd
hellboundblr 02/Apr/17 Lead

Clean lead this time. Knee bar hands off rest.

with Will Szott
Mr Wild 08/Mar/17 Lead O/S
Yinners 18/Feb/17 2nd β
with David
onlyfoddington 18/Feb/17 Lead O/S

I spent a very long time doubled over at the ledge. Pleased I eventually got some better gear in and found a any I could surmount the ledge.

with Yinners
slab_happy 04/Jan/17 2nd
with Droyd
Droyd 04/Jan/17 Lead G/U

Struggled, but got it second go. Heel hooks are less useful than one might think, and the knee bar is worryingly hard to release.

with Clare
Jonny Holmes 27/Dec/16 Lead

really good climb, did it on the first go really good gear wouldnt really give this hvs

with Joe Cossey
Tommackie 22/Oct/16 2nd O/S
Robrossmills 22/Oct/16 Lead O/S
oli_leyshon 22/Oct/16 2nd O/S
Stroppy 22/Oct/16 Solo O/S
with SUMC
samulejones 25/Sep/16 2nd O/S

Not a perfectly clean second, nor my most elegant, but I got up.

BarnDawg 25/Sep/16 Lead O/S

bouldery. the crux isn't where you think. no 5b moves here.

hirving 18/Sep/16 2nd O/S

Good lead by Woody

with Woody
Sam Woodward 18/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with HenDog
Dale Comley 14/Aug/16 Solo O/S
alan.phobos 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Dave C
Daveyc86 13/Aug/16 2nd
with Al
NeilHowarth 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S
andrew.tyrrell 07/Aug/16 2nd O/S
admcne 06/Aug/16 2nd
lewis_james84 06/Aug/16 Lead dog
with admcne
George Killaspy 23/Jul/16 Lead
with Rob Hopes
watson.b 12/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Tony
Tony Myers 12/Jul/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/16 2nd O/S
esuddes 03/Jul/16 2nd
with Henry, Hastie
MikeyP 16/May/16 Lead
Mike505 14/May/16 Lead O/S
Marie45 14/May/16 2nd O/S
eb202 14/May/16 2nd
MatthewH 07/May/16 Lead O/S
with Alex Greeney
Dan Vaj 01/May/16 TR RP
andrzej kierzek 01/May/16 Lead O/S
with Tara
matt.stevenson 17/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Amy Sears 17/Apr/16 2nd
gaz3212 14/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Sam Hunt 28/Feb/16 Lead O/S
with Adam Wood, Robyn Little
adam.wood 28/Feb/16 2nd
with UBMC, Sam Hunt
Cheryl 23/Jan/16 2nd

accidentally ended up on the ledge near the top sort of cross legged and meditated there for quite a while

with francistango
Hidden ??/2016 -
Alex Botten ??/2016 -
Robin Nichols 31/Dec/15 Solo O/S
with Jemma
Hidden 31/Oct/15 TR β
Flavio 18/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Oct/15 Lead
mky77 27/Sep/15 2nd
Hidden 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S
JamesRich 09/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Stanners 09/Sep/15 2nd O/S

as recommended by Chris. A great route which we'd never of got on otherwise.

with James Rich
cragsman9000 06/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Neil
xiangoh 16/Aug/15 2nd
samdickensuk 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S
NOG ?/Aug/15 Lead O/S
TomYates 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S
JordanRickard 19/Jul/15 Solo O/S
benwh1te ?/Jul/15 Lead
jayray 27/Jun/15 Lead
Hog Dog 27/Jun/15 2nd dnf

Couldn't get out of second overhang

with Rob Green, Jen Roberts
Monkey_Alan 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Fun little route - knee bar helpful.

with Anne-Marie Shepherd
The Norris 02/Jun/15 TR dog
with Gem
Hidden 17/May/15 2nd
Phil.Rudd 16/May/15 2nd O/S
alex goodall 16/May/15 Lead O/S
Angus Taylor 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Mar/15 2nd
JohnBotham 10/Mar/15 2nd
Quarryboy 07/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Found the start the hardest bit just because the position that you have to place the gear from is fairly strenuous

Alkis 07/Mar/15 2nd rpt
dan_o_b ??/2015 Lead O/S
John Higgs 13/Dec/14 Solo O/S
harry_lewis 30/Nov/14 Lead O/S
migs493 09/Nov/14 Solo O/S
maumau 23/Sep/14 2nd
ralphio 23/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Slightly awkward getting established on the slab but relatively straightforward otherwise. Would maybe give it 5a. Good gear and good rests where needed.

with Maumau
nick ferro 07/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
OllyT 27/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/14 2nd
Hidden 21/Aug/14 Lead
Sjpartlett ?/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden 07/Jul/14 Lead
jshields 25/Jun/14 2nd
TonyF 25/Jun/14 Lead
johnl 23/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Andy Dunford
riff156 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Johnny B Diggerman 14/Jun/14 2nd dog

Starts ok, the arête move is quite tricky and off balance, not much there to pull through on, fine if you are flexible and have long legs, key is to get your right foot up on the ledge and step up

with Dan L
quickdrawmcraw 14/Jun/14 -
batterj2 01/Jun/14 2nd dog
with Ricky Nos
climbingrick 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
nige pacer 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Actually 2nd pete on it July 03, class as onsight.

with Mike Lea
lloydellis93 21/May/14 2nd
charley 20/Apr/14 Lead rpt

Straightforward if you avoid getting drawn into the break and knee bar. Don't think it was a 5b move, more 5a..

with JackD, Ange, Kev
Jackwd 20/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Tithe Technique 20/Apr/14 TR O/S
valentinesbabe 20/Apr/14 TR O/S

Really chuffed to finish this but to get it clean was awesome :D Felt reasonably straightforward on a rope!!

gazfellows 16/Apr/14 Lead

Proper grit climbing! Definitely worth a star...

with Nic
Ragnaar 11/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Quite a battle! Think I've sprained my whole body.

with martin hirons
the power 16/Nov/13 Lead dnf


with deacon
JimboWizbo 10/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Good awkward fun

with Beth
Hidden 10/Nov/13 2nd O/S
fredallingham 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S
youwillfindjimbo 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S
RFWilkie 01/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Kev
Wanderlust 18/Aug/13 2nd dog

Yarded on a nut to get established. Did not enjoy the climbing above.

with Shaun
wild_nomad 10/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Brilliant micro route. However, there's not a 5b move in it and its loaded with good gear so not HVS either. VS 5a all day long.

Andy Hardy 30/Jul/13 2nd
JEP 30/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/13 TR
Hidden 17/Jun/13 Lead
Hidden 08/Jun/13 Lead dog
Zoomer 04/Jun/13 TR O/S

Teaching day.

with A Student
scott mayled 04/Jun/13 TR O/S
with zoomer
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead dog
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Chalky Cat 31/May/13 2nd O/S
with Dom
Peakology 31/May/13 Lead O/S
with Chalkycat
Lukem6 25/May/13 Lead O/S
Jenny Monkey 25/May/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Apr/13 2nd
jon_gill1 20/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with chris Lyness
Alkis 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Managed to get my knees stuck in a double kneebar, took some thinking to manage to get them out without screwing up! :-P

JP78 20/Apr/13 Lead
Hidden 14/Apr/13 Lead β
Hidden 14/Apr/13 Lead O/S
ashtond6 14/Apr/13 Lead O/S
alp79 14/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden 07/Apr/13 Lead O/S
PeteWilson 07/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Andrew Graham
Harry Thorpe 02/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Paul Hazell
Steven Andrews 03/Nov/12 Lead O/S

Nice climb and a good seated rest mid crux.

grp 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Bill Lawrence 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S

funny old climb!

with rob cooper, andy lawrence
scottidog 07/Oct/12 2nd β
cjbaker 07/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Scotty, Alvaro
deacondeacon 01/Oct/12 Lead O/S
tsjx 16/Sep/12 2nd
with Bruce
pc1983 15/Sep/12 Lead β

Certainly would have been a bit hairy for a severe, although I didn't have any issues with it. Fairly pumpy at the start, had a quick straddle of the bulge on the break whilst placing gear, but was easy to move on up after, despite what the guide suggests.

cameron_hall 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Took quite a while to get on top of the beak. My legs are too long to use the jug and I ended up using the sloping crack to get up!

with Aeron Buchanan
mike.moss 02/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Cassidy 01/Sep/12 2nd
Oceanic 19/Aug/12 -
SecretSquirrel 19/Aug/12 2nd
with Oceanic
dannyboy83 12/Aug/12 Solo O/S
Wayne S 20/Jul/12 Lead
robblowen 17/Jul/12 Lead dog
with Wayne
65m moderate millington 09/Jul/12 Lead dnf
Hidden 09/Jul/12 2nd O/S
al jackson ?/Jul/12 Lead
Nick1812P 18/Jun/12 2nd
with Jamie
Hidden 18/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/12 2nd
shaun walby 11/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Not HVS5b maybe VS5a

with Nick Whelan
ipblake 04/Jun/12 2nd

Got hidden in the buttress which was fun but difficult to get out of!

Dave89 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Dave C
Paul1 04/Jun/12 Lead

rested on gear as i thought i had to traverse, got the move first time once i realise i had to go straight up.

col3 04/Jun/12 2nd O/S

Cool route, apparently I did the awkward move the best? Fun though, brilliant rockover, most amount of jugs I've seen on a HVS I think!

with Rhian, Cripsey, Dad, Paul
Hidden 04/Jun/12 2nd RP
Hidden 25/May/12 TR O/S
martroberts 12/May/12 Lead O/S

Hilarious! (In a good way). Surprisingly fun for such a little route. Nui Seconded easily

joem 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S
RossT 17/Mar/12 Lead
with Andrew Edwards
Hidden 14/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Tombauer 14/Mar/12 Lead
Rhythm24 29/Jan/12 Lead β

on site with pre placed gear up to the crux which is a shocker!!!!!!

Rhythm24 28/Jan/12 Lead β
Hidden 28/Jan/12 2nd RP
Hidden ??/2012 -
Goose4 ??/2012 -
lozowen 18/Nov/11 Solo O/S
Rowan Mitchell 06/Nov/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Oct/11 2nd dog
ianjdodd 28/Oct/11 Lead O/S
ChrisBrooke 18/Sep/11 2nd
with Duncan Bell
charley 17/Sep/11 2nd O/S

Great lead by Steve. Will have to try it myself next time...

cragtyke 17/Sep/11 2nd
Gazleah 17/Sep/11 Solo O/S
with serge
chumleywarner 17/Sep/11 Lead O/S
ggflett 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Adam Harvey
adsyrah 31/Jul/11 TR
victim of mathematics 18/Jul/11 Lead O/S

VS 5a, and fairly so, in the new guide. The crux for me was definitely getting my hands onto the big break, from there it was just a sequence of comedy rests to the top!

with Adam
adam carless 18/Jul/11 2nd
dpmUK 18/Jul/11 2nd O/S
DerwentDiluted 30/Jun/11 Lead
ben_250 05/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Andrew
CrashMat Rob 27/Apr/11 2nd β

Glynn’s been climbing well recently, so now was the time to push the grades a little. After spending way too long on Orpheus Wall and a DNF I thought The Keel might be a good one to get his enthusiasm back, good pro one hard move and a little bold walk to the top. His scream off relief and the big grin at the top said it all. You can see the video here

with Glynn, Colin
Ultimo Dyno Boy 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Found Hard, Need to remember to use knee bar

Hidden 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Mar/11 TR dnf
Lumbering Oaf 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hoyes 26/Mar/11 2nd rpt
with Matt B
freemanTom 12/Mar/11 2nd


with Normal Steve
Hidden 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S
stvredmond 29/Jan/11 Lead

the half height break was an interesting no hands rest, may of made it a tad more complicated by lying in the break. good short climb though

will9911 06/Nov/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Oct/10 2nd
Hidden 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Tom Hudson 24/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Jack Bowley
Hidden 18/Sep/10 Lead
Mike_Hayes 04/Sep/10 -
Oliver Branagan 29/Aug/10 Solo O/S

Started off on Keel. Delicate.

Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 31/Jul/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 23/Jul/10 Solo O/S
Joshhardill 16/Jun/10 2nd O/S

a nice start but with some very interesting moves with slopper holds

Alistair Corbett 16/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with josh hardill
hellboundblr 22/May/10 Lead dog

2 rests at crux.

with Danny Smudge
max_chan 20/May/10 Lead O/S
with Lou
Oliver Houston 05/May/10 Lead
bennevis 19/Apr/10 TR
with Jon
Daniel Wicks 11/Apr/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/10 2nd O/S
R Spisser 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S
RM199 ??/2010 -
Hidden 15/Nov/09 AltLd
Graeme Hammond 10/Oct/09 Lead O/S

much harder to stand up when you stand on your rope :o

with Lauren Foster/Keeler
matsavage 23/Sep/09 Lead O/S
SGD 22/Sep/09 Lead
with Jonny WMC
cpoad 02/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Took ages at the crux until I reached a bit farther and found a good hand hold

with Paul R
paulerussell 02/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Jul/09 Solo RP
tiga271 05/Jul/09 2nd
with mark20
mark20 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Elsier 24/May/09 2nd
with Stuart
jdgaventa 02/May/09 Lead dog
with katy
Hidden 26/Apr/09 2nd
Jonny M 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/09 TR rpt
JWB 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Claire Taylor 15/Mar/09 2nd O/S
with Liz Swanson
NickST ?/Jan/09 2nd
Hannah Moulton ??/2009 Lead
with Rob Middleton
Hidden ??/2009 -
keith leonard ??/2009 Lead
howlingbaboon 26/Oct/08 2nd rpt
with James
Stig 26/Oct/08 Lead O/S

Closer to Sev than HVS

with Dave
Sandy Holford 17/Oct/08 TR RP
with Mark Darby
highfivekrissy ?/Aug/08 2nd
Dan 85 09/Feb/08 2nd O/S
with Heddwyn
Ing 09/Feb/08 2nd
with Jim & Stevie G
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
LoopyLou ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Helen Lear
Sidekick 14/Nov/07 Lead O/S
OffshoreAndy 17/Oct/07 2nd
with NCC Nic
Nick F Smith ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Andy
Somerset swede basher 15/Sep/07 Solo O/S
with Sarah and Abi
ellentaylor 11/Sep/07 2nd dog
Hidden 11/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Rampikino 09/Sep/07 Lead
with MMC Various
Pythonist 02/Sep/07 Solo rpt
coffeepot 02/Sep/07 2nd
with jelaby
NickST ?/Sep/07 2nd O/S
with Greg Grace
Mike Soulby ?/Sep/07 TR
Phil Jennings 24/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Ropeboy 24/Aug/07 Lead
Steve682 14/Jul/07 TR rpt
with Peter
Hidden 27/Jun/07 2nd O/S
jchenoweth 09/Jun/07 Lead dog
with Fat Alan
derico 26/May/07 Lead
with George W
Pythonist 18/May/07 Lead O/S

Genuis - just stay as far out of the crack as you can!

with Chris Jennions
Hidden 15/May/07 2nd
Hidden 29/Apr/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/07 2nd O/S
paul birch 21/Apr/07 -
climbingrick 15/Apr/07 Lead O/S
gibbo38 18/Feb/07 2nd
with martin
SteveM 21/Jan/07 2nd
with Tobs
Tobias at Home 21/Jan/07 Lead O/S

nice knee bars helped defrost hands

with SteveM
MNA123 ??/2007 Lead
Nicos 05/Nov/06 Solo O/S
with solo
Hidden 29/Oct/06 Lead
Chris the Tall 10/Sep/06 Lead O/S

Some great no-hands rests, but thought I was in trouble with the double knee bar

with Daz & India
chrissloan84 20/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Andy G
howlingbaboon 18/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Rob
AJ007 11/Jul/06 Solo
aled.sage 24/Jun/06 TR
Hidden 16/Jun/06 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/06 TR O/S
leon ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/May/06 2nd O/S
A Crook 30/Apr/06 Lead O/S

Hard move to get out of the cave

with Duncan Hassell
ChrisBrooke 22/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with John Inkpen
zcapxa5 26/Feb/06 Lead dog
with Dave Ross
SR1970 ?/Jan/06 Lead O/S
masa-alpin 23/Oct/05 Lead dog

Fell while climbing down to the ground to have a rest.

with Joe Mc [ULMC]
Hidden 26/Sep/05 TR
Chris Davids 07/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Will
AngelaC 03/May/05 2nd
Phil West 30/Apr/05 2nd O/S
with Chris Tan
Hidden 23/Apr/05 2nd
jl 10/Apr/05 TR O/S
with SPA Training
Hidden ?/Apr/05 2nd
colin milton 26/Sep/04 2nd
with Dave V
Hidden 15/Aug/04 2nd β
Neil Curtis 17/Apr/04 Lead dnf
with James Tyson
Neil Curtis 17/Apr/04 TR RP
with James Tyson
Hidden ??/2004 -
Swirly 24/Oct/03 Lead dog
SteveM 28/Sep/03 Solo
Hidden 15/Sep/03 Lead
CrashMat Rob 16/Jul/03 2nd

followed MartinW in bare feet

with Martin Smith, Martin Whelan, Nicky, Glynn
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 13/Jul/03 Solo O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/03 Solo
Mark Stevenson 24/May/03 Solo O/S
CrashMat Rob 22/Mar/03 Lead

Nicky Started I had to finish the climb

with Ryan, Martin Smith, Nicky
dangerousoldfool ??/2003 2nd
with Dave C
duncan 18/Oct/02 Solo O/S
phardman 08/Sep/02 Lead O/S
with Teresa
Hidden 02/Dec/01 Lead O/S
cem 10/Jun/01 Lead O/S
with Neil Northrop
five ?/Sep/00 Lead O/S
Budge 13/Jul/00 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/99 Lead
CrashMat Rob 15/May/99 Lead O/S
with Nicky
Hidden ?/Apr/99 2nd
roncaves 28/Mar/99 Lead
with Jonathan Reid
ajoliver 18/Apr/98 2nd O/S
Chris Murray ?/May/97 Lead
Martin Bennett 13/Apr/97 -
with MT
Hidden 15/Feb/97 2nd rpt
Hidden ??/1996 -
BruceW ??/1995 Lead RP
with Keith S.
Hidden ??/1992 2nd
adam carless ??/1992 Lead O/S
Roget 09/Jul/91 Solo O/S
nuts and bolts ?/Jun/91 -
Hidden 27/Apr/91 Lead O/S
malc 12/Nov/89 TR dog
Hidden ?/Nov/89 Solo O/S
tapley 25/Aug/89 Lead
with Alison Tapley
Andy Say 08/Oct/88 Solo
Iain Thow 20/May/87 2nd
with Julian England
Carl Hamer ??/1987 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/85 Lead
Hidden ??/1985 2nd
Hidden 21/Apr/83 TR
mark-abz 27/Apr/82 TR
CrashMat Rob ??/1980 Lead O/S


RichardMc 19/Oct/75 Lead
with John Antill
Hidden ??/1975 -
Hidden 26/May/74 TR
mikej 19/Aug/68 Solo
mikej 30/Apr/66 Solo
with Rosemary Lewis, Malcolm Eldridge, Mike Byles
mikej 10/Oct/65 Solo
with Howard Furguson
mikej 07/Jun/65 TR
with David Short, Ted Markham
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 71
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 72
Votes cast 67
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set