Rockfax Description
A pleasant counter to the ever-popular Powder Monkey Parade. From atop the chock, head left to the arete, step around this and ascend the pleasant front face. The crux is the section shared with Hollybush Gully, though the traverse is a bit bold. © Rockfax

FA. David Penlington 1952

Ticklists: All trad climbs at Birchen Edge.

Mark Duncan 06/Sep Lead O/S

Nice route.

with Darya
charvey 25/Aug Solo O/S
keitht 16/Jul Solo
sting 02/Jul 2nd O/S
with kwaidy
kwaidy 02/Jul Lead O/S
with sting
tonto169 01/Jul -
Wayne S 30/Jun 2nd O/S
darcher1988 03/Jun 2nd
with Garnham
Garnham 03/Jun Lead O/S
JoeCoxson 27/May Solo O/S
mikkistorey ??/2017 2nd
with steve
mark44 04/Dec/16 2nd
with Frankie
Marti999 04/Nov/16 Lead O/S
with Debbie
Eva.annice 22/Oct/16 2nd O/S
The Screaming Finn 22/Oct/16 Lead O/S
RussLuckhurst 22/Oct/16 2nd
Stroppy 22/Oct/16 Solo O/S


with SUMC
Remyveness 08/Oct/16 Lead O/S
NatalieB96 08/Oct/16 2nd
Chubbs 17/Sep/16 -
cameron_hall 04/Sep/16 2nd O/S

Getting up the chimney didn't feel as bad as I remember it being...

with Jody Palmer
simeclimb68 20/Jun/16 Solo O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/16 2nd
benny_m 24/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Su
davewsargent 30/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with pete bush
bendevonport 25/Mar/16 AltLd
Hidden 20/Mar/16 Solo
Hidden 12/Mar/16 2nd
will_benfold 12/Mar/16 Lead O/S
John Higgs 11/Dec/15 Solo O/S
charley 22/Nov/15 Solo rpt
FlavioL1989 18/Oct/15 Solo O/S
Hidden 10/Oct/15 Lead
kez1 ?/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Frankie davies, rob rendle
daniel heaton 20/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with HSX
Hidden 15/Jun/15 Solo O/S
woody99i 07/Apr/15 Solo O/S
Hidden 07/Mar/15 Lead
Robin Nichols 09/Feb/15 Solo O/S
Andypeak 01/Nov/14 Lead
Durkules 01/Nov/14 2nd
Matt Harmon 15/Aug/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/14 2nd
Albachoss 26/Jul/14 Solo O/S
jshields 25/Jun/14 Solo


Hardcore Pat 08/Jun/14 Solo rpt
with Dr Julie
theboghopper 05/May/14 AltLd O/S
with Owain Baker
Blod 17/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Stopsy 14/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Merri
Ragnaar 11/Apr/14 2nd O/S

Necky traverse.

with martin hirons
Karlos 05/Apr/14 Lead O/S
fuzzysheep01 05/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Adam Hughes, Karl Stewart
eastonator 23/Feb/14 2nd O/S
SuperLee1985 23/Feb/14 Lead O/S

Good climb. Thrutchy start as for the other that share it. The moves onto the traverse are the most difficult bit. A nice slab to finish. My only advice would be extend (or use halves) rope drag was a bastard.

AMJ098 16/Feb/14 Lead O/S
with Adam White
joese7en 24/Oct/13 Solo
Jim Slater 07/Aug/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/13 Lead rpt
jason smeeth 08/Jun/13 2nd
with hotfeet
hotfeet 08/Jun/13 Lead
Chris Murray ?/Jun/13 Lead
with Dan Chadfield, Richard Bower
DanChad ?/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Richard Bower, Chris Murray
Chris_Mullaney 14/Apr/13 2nd
with Mr. K
Mr. K 14/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Jimbo C 16/Feb/13 Solo O/S

Exposed traverse

Sam Cooke 16/Feb/13 2nd O/S
with Mark Challoner
Hidden 02/Feb/13 2nd rpt
deacondeacon 01/Oct/12 Solo
iccy 30/Sep/12 AltLd
boanerge 29/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Sep/12 Lead O/S
DaveB61 28/Aug/12 2nd
with Ruth Gordon
dannyboy83 12/Aug/12 Solo O/S
NickTay 09/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Ian C
Jake Young 06/Aug/12 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S
JackHatton 11/Jun/12 2nd
with jamie langlar
hazeysunshine 27/May/12 2nd O/S
with Val P
Hidden 25/May/12 Solo O/S
Nick F Smith 13/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/12 Lead
doughtyp86 07/Apr/12 TR O/S
Andy Moles 12/Mar/12 Solo O/S
with -
tiga271 10/Mar/12 Lead
with Dave
Hidden ??/2012 -
bikergirl88 02/Dec/11 Lead

Climb with steve

Dafydd Llywelyn 15/Oct/11 Solo O/S
with LUUMC Freshers
pie_eater_pete 29/Sep/11 Solo O/S
charley 17/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Gazleah 17/Sep/11 Solo O/S
with serge
chumleywarner 17/Sep/11 2nd O/S
ffdalton 11/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Dean Dalton
redknight137 29/Aug/11 2nd
Steve954 23/Jul/11 TR dog

No partner and climbing on shunt; Made a right horlicks of this. Used a right arm jam across the gap with left hand on a layoff to allow me to get my feet up high in the main crack before getting hold of the chock stone to haul myself up and coming back out using foot jams in the narrow crack on left wall. Not sure which level to do the traverse made it worse.

adam carless 29/Jun/11 Lead O/S

One move wonder, stepping onto the start of the traverse. Slightly harder for the shorties, but sneaky footwork helps.

edd rab 06/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with James Newby
Hidden ?/Jun/11 -
Ultimo Dyno Boy 20/Apr/11 Lead
with Collin
Hidden 13/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 13/Apr/11 Lead O/S
bigdan050 16/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Tosh
lozowen 04/Feb/11 Solo
ben_250 ??/2011 2nd O/S
with Andrew
chris.mac 15/Aug/10 -
with rick
Hidden 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
fyfers 10/May/10 Lead O/S
Ultimo Dyno Boy 24/Apr/10 Lead
with Collin
Dhcol 20/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Stippa65 ?/Apr/10 Lead
Dhcol ?/Apr/10 2nd
The Bad Cough 27/Mar/10 Solo O/S
with Christian Minett
Ander 21/Mar/10 Lead
with Deadahead
daviesp2 21/Mar/10 2nd
freemanTom 21/Mar/10 Lead

Many abortive starts. Cracking route

with Paul Davies
Pilch 31/Oct/09 Solo
chiverstom 31/Oct/09 Solo O/S
with None
mick1jones 22/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Dave Wilkinson
JDDD 09/Aug/09 Solo
Alfredo 31/Jul/09 Solo
dpmUK 12/Jul/09 Lead

Still hate the start of this. Ended up aiding it!

with Kiri
Hidden 25/Jun/09 Lead O/S
shed_hed 24/Jun/09 Lead dnf
with Andy Winter
shed_hed 24/Jun/09 2nd
with Andy Winter
Hidden 22/Jun/09 2nd
jwpil 22/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Mat
RiverRoam 14/Jun/09 Solo O/S

Lovely arete moves onto face.

with Wing & Keith
jdgaventa 02/May/09 Lead
with katy
Hidden 22/Apr/09 Solo rpt
Hidden 18/Mar/09 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 -
RM199 ??/2009 -
Becky E 26/Oct/08 2nd
James_D ?/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Tim
Hidden 10/Sep/08 Lead O/S
mshorter ?/Aug/08 -
Oddjob 20/Jul/08 Solo rpt
Hidden 08/Jun/08 Lead
Chris Ellis 04/Jun/08 Lead
with Helen Odwell
Alfredo ?/Jan/08 Lead
with Ben H
Hidden 13/Dec/07 Solo rpt
Hidden 30/Sep/07 Lead O/S
popebenedictus 15/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Powder Puff Girl 15/Sep/07 2nd β
with Ben H
edd rab 15/Sep/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/07 Solo
Dr Caterpillar 28/Jun/07 2nd O/S

spent about 10mins trying to do the first section while roy laughed at me. I cant chimney. ended up hand jamming with smeary footholds

with Roy Hann
Hidden 10/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 18/Apr/07 Solo
Steve Vincent 06/Apr/07 Lead
Graeme Hammond 21/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/07 2nd O/S
eldre070 ?/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Laura Eldred
Browny 19/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Oddjob 19/Aug/06 Lead O/S
howlingbaboon 18/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Rob
Ronnie Concave ?/May/06 Lead

The start to this is hard work and not very stylish.

with Party Troll
Rampikino 14/Apr/06 Lead
with MMC Various
Hidden ?/Apr/06 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2006 2nd
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
John Lisle ??/2006 -
tiga271 ??/2006 2nd
with Dave
Nicos 09/Nov/05 Solo O/S
with solo
Hidden 21/May/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Apr/05 2nd
SteveM 21/Jul/04 Lead
with Rosie
rob wmc 12/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Alan & Pete
Marq 21/May/04 Lead O/S
with Rich Cole
Hidden 21/Jun/03 Solo rpt
Mark Stevenson 24/May/03 Solo O/S
CrashMat Rob 29/Mar/03 Solo
with Ryan, Nicky, Glynn
DerwentDiluted 24/Mar/03 Lead
with A. Murray
Hidden 22/Mar/03 Lead
Katsmiff 19/Mar/03 Solo O/S
Phil West 02/Feb/03 Lead O/S
with Chris Tan
LankyPaddy 30/Jan/03 Solo O/S
duncan 18/Oct/02 Solo
Ander 22/Jul/02 Lead
with Kev
Simon Caldwell ??/2001 Lead O/S
with various
Hidden 03/Sep/00 Solo
Hidden ?/Aug/00 Solo
Roget 20/Dec/98 Solo O/S
Jelly Mould Surfer 02/Sep/90 Solo O/S
Laramadness 15/Jul/89 Solo O/S
Iain Thow 14/Sep/87 Solo
Chris the Tall ?/Jun/87 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/1987 -
andy tetsill ?/Oct/85 Lead
andy tetsill ?/Oct/83 Lead
with Manchester Poly
charlesmfrench 11/Jun/83 Solo O/S
Hidden 01/Oct/82 Solo
mark-abz 27/Apr/82 Solo
CrashMat Rob ??/1980 Lead O/S


Mark Kemball 03/Nov/77 Solo
RichardMc 21/May/77 Solo
uphillnow ??/1976 Solo
petemeads ??/1976 Solo
mikej 06/Jul/74 Solo
with E
mikej 25/Nov/73 Solo
with Janice Williams, E, Geoff Williams
mikej 17/Aug/69 Solo
with E
mikej 04/May/69 Solo
with Wil Hurford
mikej 04/Jan/69 Solo
with Roy Worthy, Nigel Sumner
mikej 19/Aug/68 Solo
mikej 31/Mar/68 Solo
Andy Say ??/1968 Lead
mikej 08/Oct/66 Solo
with Steve Radford, Nigel Sumner
mikej 08/Oct/66 Solo
with Nigel Sumner
mikej 30/Apr/66 Solo
with Rosemary Lewis, Malcolm Eldridge, Mike Byles
mikej 05/Mar/66 Lead
with Ted Markham
mikej 26/Sep/65 Lead
with Roy Ecclestone, Nigel Sumner
mikej 24/Jun/65 Lead
with Barry Regan, Ted Markham
mikej 28/Mar/65 Lead
with Barry Regan
mikej 07/Mar/65 Solo
with Paul Richardson
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