73m, 4 pitches.
Bored of the same-old? Push your boundaries on this adventurous outing which maintains its original (late 1960s) nature. Good judgement and composure is essential, in particular on the run-outs on the ultra-absorbing P1 which is high in the grade and not for novices. Achieved two star status in the 1983 guide but then stripped bare in 1995, is the reality in between? Due to some variation in older guidebook descriptions and a recommended minor detour on P2, a full, current (2017) desc. follows:
P1 27m 4c/5a Start upslope, behind the buddleia bush. Step up at a shothole and make a rising leftwards traverse along a sloping footledge to a larger ledge. Continue with care up to a welcome (but worrying) block; wire placement to the rear (crack may need broddling). From a standing position on the block, edge cautiously rightwards around a steep rib to the blessed relief of a sturdy shothole (tricam 1.5). Continue steadily up leftwards to another shothole (med. cam), then continue on the same line across the head of a glacis to clip a peg well out left (avoid the wobbly block). Climb back rightwards up a short wall to good holds, pull up, step back left and bridge up the blocky corner to a good stance with 2 pegs and backup gear.
P2 18m 4c Climb the blocky left rib above the stance (peg), then go steeply up right to a good hand-ledge (med. cam above). Step down and undercut rightwards below a nose to gain and climb stepped ledges, avoiding the broken rock above and up left. Step up a short wall (hidden shothole) to a rightwards-rising crackline. Follow it up a widening ledge to a grassy stance at a red wall, good cracks for gear. The 2nd should take a look at the traverse below the nose before stripping the high cam.
P3 20m 4b Move up left into an open corner. Climb to its apex, where good cracks facilitate a steep, rightwards pull onto a huge sloping ledge. Walk to its end, eyeballing the gaping cracks underfoot. With a light touch, scramble across the small gully and up to a crack in a short wall. Belay using a med. cam placed deep, plus backups.
P4 8m Scramble up the gully. Peg belay out left, in a grey wall on the cove side of the ridge.
P Littlejohn, J Hammond, P Biven, E Grindley 08/Jun/1969