2 pitches. Ultra steep route on big tufas and pockets leading to a crux section and tricky finish. The corner groove at the start has now been bolted. If you lead the route from the ground (rather than belaying from the pillar) the rope runs easily if you don't clip the pedestal bolt, but drags over edges if you do. You can climb up, clip the first roof bolt, then come down and remove it.

Ticklists

Classic UK F7s, Rock cats getting strong, 30 For My 30s, The must do 7's I haven't done b4 I'm to old, Mineboyz Mega Projectz - Level: Crystal

Feedback

UserDateNotes
tommccluskey 23 May Show βeta
βeta: Missing block makes no difference - still brilliant and still soft!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Missing block makes no difference - still brilliant and still soft!
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Longsufferingropeholder 14 Sep Lead dog Quick bolt-to-bolt as we were leaving on someone else's draws (thanks, if you're reading this). Definitely all goes. Top is a bit unsettling. Suppose I probably have to get on it.
Quick bolt-to-bolt as we were leaving on someone else's draws (thanks, if you're reading this). Definitely all goes. Top is a bit unsettling. Suppose I probably have to get on it.
rowland penty 14 Sep Lead RP One go bolt to bolt, then a second go working out beta higher up, then sent on first real redpoint. First 7c. Probably soft but not much to base that off
One go bolt to bolt, then a second go working out beta higher up, then sent on first real redpoint. First 7c. Probably soft but not much to base that off
Rob Knowles 4 Sep Lead RP Good fun trading burns with Elis and Matt!
Good fun trading burns with Elis and Matt!
Alex N-R 1 Aug Lead RP Soo much fun
with chris hobbs
Soo much fun
with chris hobbs
Hidden 28 Jul Lead dog
psborland 25 Jul Lead dog
with Mike G
with Mike G
Wyndcliff Wizard of the West 13 Jul Lead RP Decent!
Decent!
Martin James 6 Jul Lead dnf
RobinJones 6 Jul Lead RP Amazing route. Been a project for a little while now, buzzing to finally send this.
Amazing route. Been a project for a little while now, buzzing to finally send this.
J1_TOV 5 Jul Lead rpt 1st try today.
1st try today.
waynekinrade 24 Jun Lead RP
with J1_TOV
with J1_TOV
J1_TOV 24 Jun Lead rpt 2nd try today. Seems to be getting harder with each try.
2nd try today. Seems to be getting harder with each try.
LukePrime85 21 Jun Lead RP Great route. Needed 2 trips and 6 tie ins. Worth a repeat
with J1_TOV
Great route. Needed 2 trips and 6 tie ins. Worth a repeat
with J1_TOV
spaceman 8 Jun Lead RP
with ross stephenson
with ross stephenson
J1_TOV 3 Jun Lead rpt A tad harder with missing block.
A tad harder with missing block.
Tomas Frost 27 May Lead 3rd go, block has fallen off on top. Use crimp and high foot. Correct for grade.
with Josh
3rd go, block has fallen off on top. Use crimp and high foot. Correct for grade.
with Josh
joshdownham23 27 May Lead rpt The yearly repeat! The missing block at the top actually makes the route better and a bit more like 7c than 7b+
The yearly repeat! The missing block at the top actually makes the route better and a bit more like 7c than 7b+
S.Kew 22 May Lead RP
LukePrime85 21 May Lead dog Great route, worked bolt to bolt first attempt. Second attempt got all moves sussed with 3/4 rests. Just need to keep my head when moving over the lip of the roof and trust the feet for the final section.
Great route, worked bolt to bolt first attempt. Second attempt got all moves sussed with 3/4 rests. Just need to keep my head when moving over the lip of the roof and trust the feet for the final section.
Cass31 7 May Lead RP First crux, left toe right heel then right hand to a downside crimp then again to better crimp* 2nd crux, right toe on triangle & high left toe on bad smear then stand up with a heel to get established.
First crux, left toe right heel then right hand to a downside crimp then again to better crimp* 2nd crux, right toe on triangle & high left toe on bad smear then stand up with a heel to get established.
Hidden 13 Apr Lead RP
RobinJones 18 Nov, 2018 Lead dog
luke glaister 18 Nov, 2018 Lead RP Yesssss. First 7c. So phsyced. Class route. Great process. I'm loving redpointing at the min. Training is paying off. The journey continues.
Yesssss. First 7c. So phsyced. Class route. Great process. I'm loving redpointing at the min. Training is paying off. The journey continues.
Hidden 21 Oct, 2018 Lead RP
luke glaister 21 Oct, 2018 Lead dog Much stronger . But kept missing the throw to the hidden crimp on the burn. So never got to have a proper go when fresh. Need to stop thinking about moves higher up and nail the ones I'm on. Well done jim. First 7c and u made it look easy.
Much stronger . But kept missing the throw to the hidden crimp on the burn. So never got to have a proper go when fresh. Need to stop thinking about moves higher up and nail the ones I'm on. Well done jim. First 7c and u made it look easy.
matt davies 10 Jun, 2018 Lead dog First session, all moves done but crux reach. Done in two links too and from crux move.
with Josh
First session, all moves done but crux reach. Done in two links too and from crux move.
with Josh
joshdownham23 10 Jun, 2018 Lead rpt
with Marc, Elliot
with Marc, Elliot
luke glaister 5 Jun, 2018 Lead dog First lead attempt. Got to the blob below the triangle hold. Pleased with how it's going.
First lead attempt. Got to the blob below the triangle hold. Pleased with how it's going.
luke glaister 20 May, 2018 TR dog Second time on it and have now done every move individually and linked bottom to the blob below the triangle. And the jug to the top. Not sure if I should start leading or a few more links. Next time here I will see how I feel but well pleased with how it's going.
Second time on it and have now done every move individually and linked bottom to the blob below the triangle. And the jug to the top. Not sure if I should start leading or a few more links. Next time here I will see how I feel but well pleased with how it's going.
luke glaister 15 May, 2018 TR dog The account is open. What a route. Long moves off big holds. Then power needed to slap up to crimp. Felt hard going to the triangle hold with an eadge on the top. Needs refining from there but buzzing for more. Not ticked a clean 7b yet but was pleased to get where I did.
The account is open. What a route. Long moves off big holds. Then power needed to slap up to crimp. Felt hard going to the triangle hold with an eadge on the top. Needs refining from there but buzzing for more. Not ticked a clean 7b yet but was pleased to get where I did.
WillAndrew 22 Oct, 2017 Lead RP Wohoo!! Psyched to finally get this, especially as it's such a good route.
with KatePG, Anouk Spelt, Ben C
Wohoo!! Psyched to finally get this, especially as it's such a good route.
with KatePG, Anouk Spelt, Ben C
Anouk Spelt 22 Oct, 2017 Lead dnf
Hidden 17 Sep, 2017 Lead dnf
Hidden 17 Sep, 2017 Lead dnf
James Smith 12 Sep, 2017 Lead RP Pretty happy to get this on the first RP. My quickest 7c to date :)
Pretty happy to get this on the first RP. My quickest 7c to date :)
yan hawkins 23 Aug, 2017 Lead RP First Redpoint!
with _m.cox_
First Redpoint!
with _m.cox_
J1_TOV 31 Jul, 2017 Lead RP Had a few disappointing sessions in October 16. Came back to it this evening with new energy and beta, skipped the clip to last jug and just about tickled my way in, then gladly got it dispatched.
Had a few disappointing sessions in October 16. Came back to it this evening with new energy and beta, skipped the clip to last jug and just about tickled my way in, then gladly got it dispatched.
Finley1234 24 Jul, 2017 Lead RP
Lilypopskeal 20 Jul, 2017 Lead dog New project :)
New project :)
Chris Redding 20 Jul, 2017 Lead dog Didn't realise it was over a year...Worked the moves again and tried a few times. Mostly falling slapping for the jug at the end of the crux
Didn't realise it was over a year...Worked the moves again and tried a few times. Mostly falling slapping for the jug at the end of the crux
Hugobristol 15 Jul, 2017 Lead RP really cool route
with Tom
really cool route
with Tom
just one more 7 Jul, 2017 Lead dog
patrickcd 7 Jul, 2017 Lead dog
Josh Lewis 10 Jun, 2017 Lead RP Quality
with J. Butters, Tomas P
Quality
with J. Butters, Tomas P
Billg 10 May, 2017 Lead RP
with Timm Oertel
with Timm Oertel
Carl Watkins 5 May, 2017 Lead RP
with del
with del
joshdownham23 27 Mar, 2017 Lead rpt Great for a little power endurance session, doing laps on it!
with Kev
Great for a little power endurance session, doing laps on it!
with Kev
Wendy 23 Oct, 2016 Lead RP
Stuart William 22 Oct, 2016 Lead RP Plan was to warm up dogging it, somehow ended up getting the redpoint. Was expecting it to put up more of a fight. 4 go overall I think.
Plan was to warm up dogging it, somehow ended up getting the redpoint. Was expecting it to put up more of a fight. 4 go overall I think.
mikedevcole 22 Oct, 2016 Lead dog
Hidden 22 Oct, 2016 Lead β
Stuart William 9 Oct, 2016 Lead dog 3 goes, feels pretty soft and should go next time. Silly foot slip before the lip. Super moves but a shame its not longer.
3 goes, feels pretty soft and should go next time. Silly foot slip before the lip. Super moves but a shame its not longer.
Finley1234 9 Oct, 2016 Lead dog blew the beta onsight by having one fall
blew the beta onsight by having one fall
DaveFidler 2 Oct, 2016 Lead RP 1 RP. Absolute banger!
1 RP. Absolute banger!
Granitemuncher 18 Sep, 2016 Lead RP Jug Fest! soft for 7c, just find a sequence that works for you, no need for a dyno at the crux if you pinch right below the horizontal Jug. Nice moves and exposed.
with Matt Johnson
Jug Fest! soft for 7c, just find a sequence that works for you, no need for a dyno at the crux if you pinch right below the horizontal Jug. Nice moves and exposed.
with Matt Johnson
MathewWright1998 12 Sep, 2016 Lead rpt Training.
with Bill Gregory
Training.
with Bill Gregory
Billg 11 Sep, 2016 Lead rpt
with Matt Wright
with Matt Wright
Carl Watkins 8 Sep, 2016 Lead dog
with jasper
with jasper
Carl Watkins 29 Aug, 2016 Lead dog Great route with some big falls missing the jug after the crux. Went well should go soon
with del
Great route with some big falls missing the jug after the crux. Went well should go soon
with del
Ally Smith 27 Aug, 2016 Lead RP 2nd go. Should have on sighted it, but went to the lip with the wrong hand :(
with hms
2nd go. Should have on sighted it, but went to the lip with the wrong hand :(
with hms
Tom92 17 Aug, 2016 Lead RP 2nd RP. Absolutely ace!
2nd RP. Absolutely ace!
Hidden 14 Aug, 2016 Lead RP
PeteDP 12 Aug, 2016 Lead dnf
Tom Pillow 8 Aug, 2016 Lead RP Yay! never expected to get up this when I first saw it. bloody awesome route done 6th go! first 7c, skipped a grade. Didn't power scream once!
with josh
Yay! never expected to get up this when I first saw it. bloody awesome route done 6th go! first 7c, skipped a grade. Didn't power scream once!
with josh
TomJ 7 Aug, 2016 Lead dog
with Si P
with Si P
joshdownham23 6 Aug, 2016 Lead rpt
with Leigh
with Leigh
Wise 10 Jul, 2016 Lead RP 3rd go and first 7c in a session. Quality route and not as hard as it looks once you've got the sequence. Thanks to Gareth for some timely beta at the top.
3rd go and first 7c in a session. Quality route and not as hard as it looks once you've got the sequence. Thanks to Gareth for some timely beta at the top.
DorsetGareth 10 Jul, 2016 Lead RP In one session, nice climbing. I didn't skip the clip, but can see it would be sensible to do so.
with Wise
In one session, nice climbing. I didn't skip the clip, but can see it would be sensible to do so.
with Wise
Ricky Rocks 9 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Simply Awesome. Fantastic moves and the best line going. Think my power screams were heard in Chepstow!!
Simply Awesome. Fantastic moves and the best line going. Think my power screams were heard in Chepstow!!
MathewWright1998 9 Jul, 2016 Lead RP First redpoint today - It was so inspiring to see Rich onsight this bad boy, well done mate!
First redpoint today - It was so inspiring to see Rich onsight this bad boy, well done mate!
guy xavier percival 8 Jul, 2016 Lead RP The best route at Ban-y-Gor and one of the finest 7c's in the region. Skipped the clip, 2nd RP
with rob
The best route at Ban-y-Gor and one of the finest 7c's in the region. Skipped the clip, 2nd RP
with rob
Hidden 6 Jul, 2016 Lead RP
Tomas P 3 Jul, 2016 Lead RP Awesome route. Skipping the crux clip is rather exciting!
with Mat
Awesome route. Skipping the crux clip is rather exciting!
with Mat
Chris Redding 30 Jun, 2016 Lead dog Being the hardest route I have tried can barely comment... but wicked moves on better than expected holds. linked to the crux 1st try then from the crux to the last clip jug. Definitely a project for the future
Being the hardest route I have tried can barely comment... but wicked moves on better than expected holds. linked to the crux 1st try then from the crux to the last clip jug. Definitely a project for the future
tommccluskey 30 Jun, 2016 Lead RP
joshdownham23 27 Jun, 2016 Lead RP At last ... After a tiny beta change on the top move it all felt easy and climbed it first go of the day while putting the clips in ... My first 7c and almost certainly the best route I've ever climbed!
with Pillow
At last ... After a tiny beta change on the top move it all felt easy and climbed it first go of the day while putting the clips in ... My first 7c and almost certainly the best route I've ever climbed!
with Pillow
joshdownham23 24 Jun, 2016 Lead dog Still fell off on the same move!
with Tom, Alex
Still fell off on the same move!
with Tom, Alex
joshdownham23 22 Jun, 2016 Lead dog I think I've got a bit of a mental block on this route after cleaning through the crux 5 times in a row only to fall off trying to get over the lip! GUTTED
with Alex
I think I've got a bit of a mental block on this route after cleaning through the crux 5 times in a row only to fall off trying to get over the lip! GUTTED
with Alex
Billg 12 Jun, 2016 Lead rpt
Hidden 12 Jun, 2016 Lead RP
Bristoldave 26 May, 2016 Lead RP 3rd RP
3rd RP
Bristoldave 24 May, 2016 Lead dog
Andy Smallwood 17 May, 2016 Lead dnf
joshdownham23 15 May, 2016 Lead dog First session back on it in 9 months ... Feels easier than last year, but still couldn't get the tick!
with Henry
First session back on it in 9 months ... Feels easier than last year, but still couldn't get the tick!
with Henry
Hidden 15 May, 2016 Lead
Luuuuuke 8 May, 2016 Lead RP
peaches69 8 May, 2016 Lead RP Quality climb, 1st redpoint. Should have flashed
Quality climb, 1st redpoint. Should have flashed
Billg 6 May, 2016 Lead rpt retro flash. Will and I have replaced the old bolts with stainless staples.
with Will Calvert
retro flash. Will and I have replaced the old bolts with stainless staples.
with Will Calvert
Dean177 6 May, 2016 Lead dog I reckon it will go next time.
I reckon it will go next time.
W d c 6 May, 2016 Lead RP Knee bar of justice.
with Billg
Knee bar of justice.
with Billg
Andy Smallwood 29 Apr, 2016 Lead dnf
AlexOates ?Feb, 2016 Lead RP
Hidden 20 Sep, 2015 Lead dog
Hidden 20 Sep, 2015 Lead dog
joshdownham23 ?Sep, 2015 Lead dog Fell off the last hard move getting my foot up at the top ... Soooo gutted
Fell off the last hard move getting my foot up at the top ... Soooo gutted
SDM 1 Aug, 2015 Lead dog
Hidden 1 Aug, 2015 Lead dnf
afrosam 25 Jul, 2015 Lead RP Awesome route, took a few more attempts than I would have liked. Whippers galore!
Awesome route, took a few more attempts than I would have liked. Whippers galore!
joshdownham23 20 Jul, 2015 Lead dog First proper session got all the moves without to much trouble!!!
First proper session got all the moves without to much trouble!!!
afrosam 19 Jul, 2015 Lead dog
Kris suriyo 18 Jul, 2015 Lead RP Great moves
Great moves
grey wolf 16 Jul, 2015 Lead β placing draws, great route with some pretty blind moves.
placing draws, great route with some pretty blind moves.
dan gibson 9 Jul, 2015 Lead RP
with jacquie robinson
with jacquie robinson
Kev Little ?Jul, 2015 Lead RP
lukehodson 30 Jun, 2015 Lead RP Have had a couple of dabbles before, first proper go at it this evening, sent 1st RP. Skipped the penultimate clip for added excitement. What an amazing route, love the finishing sequence.
with Gary Ryan
Have had a couple of dabbles before, first proper go at it this evening, sent 1st RP. Skipped the penultimate clip for added excitement. What an amazing route, love the finishing sequence.
with Gary Ryan
quiffhanger 25 Apr, 2015 Lead RP 1st RP. Was a bit worried about the bolts so put in a mega-extender from the route on the left. Probably the best route at the crag, shame it's not longer.
with Rachel
1st RP. Was a bit worried about the bolts so put in a mega-extender from the route on the left. Probably the best route at the crag, shame it's not longer.
with Rachel
Billg 19 Apr, 2015 Lead RP
with Nik Goile
with Nik Goile
Tommyads ??, 2015 -
hankyc 15 Sep, 2014 Lead RP first redpoint today, nailed it! first 7c and super psyched!!
first redpoint today, nailed it! first 7c and super psyched!!
jammy4536 5 Sep, 2014 Lead dog
hankyc 29 Jul, 2014 Lead dog total awesomeness, what a stunner, can't wait to get back on and bag it!
total awesomeness, what a stunner, can't wait to get back on and bag it!
Tomar 2 Jul, 2014 Lead RP Awesome evening sent. Proper route! Skipping the penultimate clip makes it even better. Shame it's actually quite short.
Awesome evening sent. Proper route! Skipping the penultimate clip makes it even better. Shame it's actually quite short.
Nick Russell 22 Jun, 2014 Lead RP First 7c! Excellent steep climbing with a tricky crux.
First 7c! Excellent steep climbing with a tricky crux.
Nick Russell 6 Jun, 2014 Lead dog Did all the moves today, found a helpful knee-bar. Start linking next time.
Did all the moves today, found a helpful knee-bar. Start linking next time.
Hidden 31 May, 2014 Lead RP
Tomar 31 May, 2014 Lead dog 4 good attempts, pretty close but all ending with an epic fall at the final roof. I'll be back, don't you worry!
with ollie_e
4 good attempts, pretty close but all ending with an epic fall at the final roof. I'll be back, don't you worry!
with ollie_e
Hidden 19 May, 2014 Lead dog
Hidden 19 May, 2014 Lead dog
Nick Russell 14 May, 2014 Lead dog Short on time last thing of the day, just went up to feel the holds. New project!
Short on time last thing of the day, just went up to feel the holds. New project!
Bates 4 Sep, 2013 Lead RP Amazing. Such a fantastic route.
Amazing. Such a fantastic route.
Holister 4 Sep, 2013 Lead RP Best route ever
with Bates
Best route ever
with Bates
MorganPreece 2 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S AMAZING
with Ashlea Bennett, Matt Smith
AMAZING
with Ashlea Bennett, Matt Smith
Garrouli 25 Aug, 2013 Lead RP 3rd red point. Best route in the wye valley!
with Mark
3rd red point. Best route in the wye valley!
with Mark
3 Names 20 Jul, 2013 Lead RP 1st redpoint
1st redpoint
Hidden 18 Jul, 2013 Lead dog
3 Names 18 Jul, 2013 Lead dog
chrisscutt 17 Jul, 2013 Lead RP one of the best climbs I've done
with ollie_e
one of the best climbs I've done
with ollie_e
Mike Goldthorp 3 Jun, 2013 Lead β Yay ho! Ridiculously good route! So godamn STEEP!
Yay ho! Ridiculously good route! So godamn STEEP!
Bates 1 Jun, 2013 Lead dog
with Chris hollister, chrisscutt
with Chris hollister, chrisscutt
SamStokes 7 Apr, 2013 2nd dog
Hidden 16 Sep, 2012 Lead dog
AJM 16 Sep, 2012 Lead RP Jug pulling, clip skipping, roof burling fun! Excellent fun! 2nd session, 3rd redpoint.
with Joe Innes, cha1n
Jug pulling, clip skipping, roof burling fun! Excellent fun! 2nd session, 3rd redpoint.
with Joe Innes, cha1n
Hidden 14 Sep, 2012 Lead dog
Hidden 12 Sep, 2012 Lead dnf
_m.cox_ 3 Sep, 2011 Lead RP
westyb3 3 Sep, 2011 Lead RP dropped the move to the jug. got it 2nd go. good route shame about the crag
with Tom Harrison
dropped the move to the jug. got it 2nd go. good route shame about the crag
with Tom Harrison
Dan Jenkin 8 Aug, 2011 Lead β no doubt the best route at ban-y-gor for quality rock & moves
with Richard Hall, James Marshall
no doubt the best route at ban-y-gor for quality rock & moves
with Richard Hall, James Marshall
James Marshall 3 Aug, 2011 Lead RP One of the best routes i've done.
with ollie
One of the best routes i've done.
with ollie
BenNorman 21 Jun, 2011 Lead RP Felt pretty solid this time although fell off the last fridge hugging moves on 1st go, great route!
Felt pretty solid this time although fell off the last fridge hugging moves on 1st go, great route!
Hidden 19 Jun, 2011 Lead dog
Hidden 19 Jun, 2011 2nd dog
Billg 16 Jun, 2011 Lead RP found a sneaky knee bar which made it quite a bit easier - but i'm not saying where !!
found a sneaky knee bar which made it quite a bit easier - but i'm not saying where !!
Hidden 13 Jun, 2010 Lead RP
Hidden 4 Jun, 2010 Lead dog
IceMonkey1982 9 Aug, 2009 -
Billg 13 Apr, 2009 Lead RP Superb route. 1st 7c in an evening, but with loads of beta on the sequence
with James Kauntze
Superb route. 1st 7c in an evening, but with loads of beta on the sequence
with James Kauntze
Cowflinger ?Mar, 1993 Lead RP
51 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 40
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Onsighted
Not Set