2 pitches. Ultra steep route on big tufas and pockets leading to a crux section and tricky finish. The corner groove at the start has now been bolted. If you lead the route from the ground (rather than belaying from the pillar) the rope runs easily if you don't clip the pedestal bolt, but drags over edges if you do. You can climb up, clip the first roof bolt, then come down and remove it.

Ticklists: Classic UK F7s, Rock cats getting strong, 20 For 2017.


ClimberDateStyle
Lilypopskeal 20/Jul Lead dog

New project :)

with Tom
Chris Redding 20/Jul Lead dog

Didn't realise it was over a year...Worked the moves again and tried a few times. Mostly falling slapping for the jug at the end of the crux

Hugobristol 15/Jul Lead RP

really cool route

with Tom
just one more 07/Jul Lead dog
with Patrick
patrickcd 07/Jul Lead dog
with Steve
Josh Lewis 10/Jun Lead RP
with Jon Butters, Tomas Pupšys
Billg 10/May Lead RP
with Timm Oertel
Carl Watkins 05/May Lead RP
with del
joshdownham23 27/Mar Lead rpt

Great for a little power endurance session, doing laps on it!

with Kev
Wendy 23/Oct/16 Lead RP
with Chris H, Ali
Stuart William 22/Oct/16 Lead RP

Plan was to warm up dogging it, somehow ended up getting the redpoint. Was expecting it to put up more of a fight. 4 go overall I think.

mikedevcole 22/Oct/16 Lead dog
Hidden 22/Oct/16 Lead β
J1_TOV 22/Oct/16 Lead dnf

THE move below the final roof to get to the tricky clip feels a mile away.. Everything else is steady enough.

Stuart William 09/Oct/16 Lead dog

3 goes, feels pretty soft and should go next time. Silly foot slip before the lip. Super moves but a shame its not longer.

Finley1234 09/Oct/16 Lead dog

blew the beta onsight by having one fall

DaveFidler 02/Oct/16 Lead RP

1 RP. Absolute banger!

with Lorenzo
Granitemuncher 18/Sep/16 Lead RP

Jug Fest! soft for 7c, just find a sequence that works for you, no need for a dyno at the crux if you pinch right below the horizontal Jug. Nice moves and exposed.

with Matt Johnson
MathewWright1998 12/Sep/16 Lead rpt

Training.

with Bill Gregory
Billg 11/Sep/16 Lead rpt
with Matt Wright
Carl Watkins 08/Sep/16 Lead dog
with jasper
Carl Watkins 29/Aug/16 Lead dog

Great route with some big falls missing the jug after the crux. Went well should go soon

with del
Ally Smith 27/Aug/16 Lead RP

2nd go. Should have on sighted it, but went to the lip with the wrong hand :(

with Helen
Tom92 17/Aug/16 Lead RP

2nd RP. Absolutely ace!

simonpearson 14/Aug/16 Lead RP

Quality

with Ash
PeteDP 12/Aug/16 Lead dnf
Tom Pillow 08/Aug/16 Lead RP

Yay! never expected to get up this when I first saw it. bloody awesome route done 6th go! first 7c, skipped a grade. Didn't power scream once!

with josh
TomJ 07/Aug/16 Lead dog
with Si P
joshdownham23 06/Aug/16 Lead rpt
with Leigh
Wise 10/Jul/16 Lead RP

3rd go and first 7c in a session. Quality route and not as hard as it looks once you've got the sequence. Thanks to Gareth for some timely beta at the top.

with Gareth
DorsetGareth 10/Jul/16 Lead RP

In one session, nice climbing. I didn't skip the clip, but can see it would be sensible to do so.

Ricky Rocks 09/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Simply Awesome. Fantastic moves and the best line going. Think my power screams were heard in Chepstow!!

MathewWright1998 09/Jul/16 Lead RP

First redpoint today - It was so inspiring to see Rich onsight this bad boy, well done mate!

guy xavier percival 08/Jul/16 Lead RP

The best route at Ban-y-Gor and one of the finest 7c's in the region. Skipped the clip, 2nd RP

with rob
Hidden 06/Jul/16 Lead RP
Tomas P 03/Jul/16 Lead RP

Awesome route. Skipping the crux clip is rather exciting!

with Mat
Chris Redding 30/Jun/16 Lead dog

Being the hardest route I have tried can barely comment... but wicked moves on better than expected holds. linked to the crux 1st try then from the crux to the last clip jug. Definitely a project for the future

tommccluskey 30/Jun/16 Lead RP
joshdownham23 27/Jun/16 Lead RP

At last ... After a tiny beta change on the top move it all felt easy and climbed it first go of the day while putting the clips in ... My first 7c and almost certainly the best route I've ever climbed!

with Pillow
Tom Pillow 27/Jun/16 Lead dog

first goes on it. Did all the moves and found a heal toe cam for the tricky ending. Early days but might go if i keep it as a super project.

with josh
joshdownham23 24/Jun/16 Lead dog

Still fell off on the same move!

with Tom, Alex
joshdownham23 22/Jun/16 Lead dog

I think I've got a bit of a mental block on this route after cleaning through the crux 5 times in a row only to fall off trying to get over the lip! GUTTED

with Alex
Billg 12/Jun/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 12/Jun/16 Lead RP
Bristoldave 26/May/16 Lead RP

3rd RP

Bristoldave 24/May/16 Lead dog
Andy Smallwood 17/May/16 Lead dnf
joshdownham23 15/May/16 Lead dog

First session back on it in 9 months ... Feels easier than last year, but still couldn't get the tick!

with Henry
Hidden 15/May/16 Lead
Luuuuuke 08/May/16 Lead RP
with Si
peaches69 08/May/16 Lead RP

Quality climb, 1st redpoint. Should have flashed

with luke
Billg 06/May/16 Lead rpt

retro flash. Will and I have replaced the old bolts with stainless staples.

with Will Calvert
Dean177 06/May/16 Lead dog

I reckon it will go next time.

W d c ?/May/16 Lead

Knee bar of justice. 4 sessions.

with BILL G
Andy Smallwood 29/Apr/16 Lead dnf
AlexOates ?/Feb/16 Lead RP
Hidden 20/Sep/15 Lead dog
Hidden 20/Sep/15 Lead dog
joshdownham23 ?/Sep/15 Lead dog

Fell off the last hard move getting my foot up at the top ... Soooo gutted

SDM 01/Aug/15 Lead dog
with Michael
Hidden 01/Aug/15 Lead dnf
afrosam 25/Jul/15 Lead RP

Awesome route, took a few more attempts than I would have liked. Whippers galore!

joshdownham23 20/Jul/15 Lead dog

First proper session got all the moves without to much trouble!!!

afrosam 19/Jul/15 Lead dog
Kris suriyo 18/Jul/15 Lead RP

Great moves

grey wolf 16/Jul/15 Lead β

placing draws, great route with some pretty blind moves.

dan gibson 09/Jul/15 Lead RP
with jacquie robinson
Kev Little ?/Jul/15 Lead RP
lukehodson 30/Jun/15 Lead RP

Have had a couple of dabbles before, first proper go at it this evening, sent 1st RP. Skipped the penultimate clip for added excitement. What an amazing route, love the finishing sequence.

with Gary Ryan
quiffhanger 25/Apr/15 Lead RP

1st RP. Was a bit worried about the bolts so put in a mega-extender from the route on the left. Probably the best route at the crag, shame it's not longer.

with Rachel
Billg 19/Apr/15 Lead RP
with Nik Goile
Tommyads ??/2015 -
hankyc 15/Sep/14 Lead RP

first redpoint today, nailed it! first 7c and super psyched!!

jammy4536 05/Sep/14 Lead dog
hankyc 29/Jul/14 Lead dog

total awesomeness, what a stunner, can't wait to get back on and bag it!

Tomar 02/Jul/14 Lead RP

Awesome evening sent. Proper route! Skipping the penultimate clip makes it even better. Shame it's actually quite short.

with Charles
Nick Russell 22/Jun/14 Lead RP

First 7c! Excellent steep climbing with a tricky crux.

Nick Russell 06/Jun/14 Lead dog

Did all the moves today, found a helpful knee-bar. Start linking next time.

ollie_e 31/May/14 Lead RP

One of the best routes anywhere. Appalling conditions today though, shocked to find myself at the top! 4RP overall I think.

Tomar 31/May/14 Lead dog

4 good attempts, pretty close but all ending with an epic fall at the final roof. I'll be back, don't you worry!

Hidden 19/May/14 Lead dog
Hidden 19/May/14 Lead dog
Nick Russell 14/May/14 Lead dog

Short on time last thing of the day, just went up to feel the holds. New project!

Bates 04/Sep/13 Lead RP

Amazing. Such a fantastic route.

Holister 04/Sep/13 Lead RP

Best route ever

with lee
MorganPreece 02/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Not even warmed up, draws in on the lead, totally onsight. had to chill at the top for 10mins to let the arms de pump! AMAZING

with Ashlea Bennett, Matt Smith
Garrouli 25/Aug/13 Lead RP

3rd red point. Best route in the wye valley!

with Mark
3 Names 20/Jul/13 Lead RP

1st redpoint

ollie_e 18/Jul/13 Lead dog

One of the best I have ever tried, will be back soon for this.

3 Names 18/Jul/13 Lead dog
chrisscutt 17/Jul/13 Lead RP

one of the best climbs I've done

with oly
Mike Goldthorp 03/Jun/13 Lead β

Yay ho! Ridiculously good route! So godamn STEEP!

Bates 01/Jun/13 Lead dog
with Chris hollister, chrisscutt
SamStokes 07/Apr/13 2nd dog
Hidden 16/Sep/12 Lead dog
AJM 16/Sep/12 Lead RP

Jug pulling, clip skipping, roof burling fun! Excellent fun! 2nd session, 3rd redpoint.

with Joe Innes, Ross A
Hidden 14/Sep/12 Lead dog
Hidden 12/Sep/12 Lead dnf
_m.cox_ 03/Sep/11 Lead RP
westyb3 03/Sep/11 Lead RP

dropped the move to the jug. got it 2nd go. good route shame about the crag

with Tom Harrison
Dan Jenkin 08/Aug/11 Lead β

no doubt the best route at ban-y-gor for quality rock & moves

with Richard Hall, James Marshall
James Marshall 03/Aug/11 Lead RP

One of the best routes i've done.

with ollie
Hidden ?/Aug/11 TR
BenNorman 21/Jun/11 Lead RP

Felt pretty solid this time although fell off the last fridge hugging moves on 1st go, great route!

Hidden 19/Jun/11 Lead dog
Hidden 19/Jun/11 2nd dog
Billg 16/Jun/11 Lead RP

found a sneaky knee bar which made it quite a bit easier - but i'm not saying where !!

Hidden 13/Jun/10 Lead RP
Hidden 04/Jun/10 Lead dog
IceMonkey1982 09/Aug/09 -
Billg 13/Apr/09 Lead RP

Superb route. 1st 7c in an evening, but with loads of beta on the sequence

with James Kauntze
Cowflinger ?/Mar/93 Lead RP
35 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Onsighted
Not Set