UKC

25m. No description has been contributed for this climb.

M J Crocker 27/Oct/1991.

Ticklists

Classic UK F7s , Billg's 2017 sweepstake list , 30 For My 30s , 3 star rated 7's in Wye valley , 7Cs with stars near Bristol , High in the grade near Bristol , Chepstow 7c - 8a+

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User Date Notes
Boomanreach 19 Sep, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Kicked off a shoe box sized block from the first overhang whilst cleaning the draws. Any obvious loose rock removed but worth a check. No change in difficulty. Belay on the right hand edge of the stance out of the fall line.
βeta?
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βeta: Kicked off a shoe box sized block from the first overhang whilst cleaning the draws. Any obvious loose rock removed but worth a check. No change in difficulty. Belay on the right hand edge of the stance out of the fall line.
Bristoldave 9 Sep, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Some loose/fragile flakes under the overhang left of the stuck wire.
βeta?
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βeta: Some loose/fragile flakes under the overhang left of the stuck wire.
PeteDP 26 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: FYI. pulled out one of the pitons from above the crux roof whilst lowering off. There's another piton about a foot and a half above it but beware that one is now missing. Could protect the break with a small nut or friend.
βeta?
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βeta: FYI. pulled out one of the pitons from above the crux roof whilst lowering off. There's another piton about a foot and a half above it but beware that one is now missing. Could protect the break with a small nut or friend.
luke glaister 29 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Sorry guys. Pulled a crimp off this on the first overhang and its made it harder now. Definitely 7c+ now id say if it wasn't before.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Sorry guys. Pulled a crimp off this on the first overhang and its made it harder now. Definitely 7c+ now id say if it wasn't before.
Michael Bortoluzzi 3 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The short abseil down to the ledge had 2 bolts on the floor but no hangers on them, we used the 2 pegs in the wall instead (nut backup). We abbed and pulled the rope but meant we had to do a 5m easy trad lead out. Short spare rope (static if possible) would have been useful but not required (could have also abbed to the floor at the end but would have had to walk back round to get the ab station gear). We used the nut placement in the flake/block, extended. Climbing is easy but runout on that section. Rest of the route has really friendly bolting. Bringing a few slings and biners is useful, as well as quite a few spare quickdraws (we extended quite a few and the spares were helpful to clip our stuff in on the ledge).
Show beta
βeta: The short abseil down to the ledge had 2 bolts on the floor but no hangers on them, we used the 2 pegs in the wall instead (nut backup). We abbed and pulled the rope but meant we had to do a 5m easy trad lead out. Short spare rope (static if possible) would have been useful but not required (could have also abbed to the floor at the end but would have had to walk back round to get the ab station gear). We used the nut placement in the flake/block, extended. Climbing is easy but runout on that section. Rest of the route has really friendly bolting. Bringing a few slings and biners is useful, as well as quite a few spare quickdraws (we extended quite a few and the spares were helpful to clip our stuff in on the ledge).

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Voting
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 11
Style of Ascent
Lead
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Almost Me

Grade: 7c ***
(Ban-y-gor)

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