300m, 10 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A pleasant direct alternative if the traverse of the Micheluzzi is particularly busy. Good consistent climbing though it does suffer from seepage after periods of heavy rain.
Start as for Big Micheluzzi.
1-4) As for Big Micheluzzi.
5) III, 15m. Move up 1m then traverse right along a big ledge under yellow rock for 6-7m to reach a cement ring under the yellow corner. Big Micheluzzi continues right here.
6) VI, 40m. Climb the yellow corner for 10m, then make a rising traverse right past a pillar. Climb slabs and a corner direct to a bolted stance.
7) V+, 40m. Ascend for 2m then traverse a narrow ledge right. Take care not to traverse too far. Climb a steep pocketed face rightwards to a small roof. Move right and climb a short crack to a stance by the corner.
8) V, 40m. Move left into the corner and follow this to a stance below an overhang.
9) VI+, 40m. Move right around the overhang and re-enter the corner. Climb this to the next stance below a bulge.
10) V-, 25m. Climb the bulge direct on good holds and continue more easily to the Chamois Terrace. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A direct Finish to the Micheluzzi climbing the big yellow diedre above the 90m traverse of the Micheluzzi.

Buhl, Steng 1949

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 4 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 4 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
Kris 18 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
Greg Cunningham 15 Jul, 2013 AltLd
Neil McA 15 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S We did the Roberta 83 start (6b) then into the Buhl finish for an excellent combo that largely avoids the crowds
We did the Roberta 83 start (6b) then into the Buhl finish for an excellent combo that largely avoids the crowds
haydng 23 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S Great route only climbed to half way ledges (end of Buhl Variant?). E1 5b is probably fair for the two VI+ pitches but the first is almost entirely reliant on in situ pro and could easily step up to E2 if the pro was bad.
with Dave
Great route only climbed to half way ledges (end of Buhl Variant?). E1 5b is probably fair for the two VI+ pitches but the first is almost entirely reliant on in situ pro and could easily step up to E2 if the pro was bad.
with Dave
Ewan Russell 13 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S Sort of meant to do the micheluzzi but ended up on this away from the crowds. Jamie led the hardest pitches the hardest I lead would have been UIAA 5
Sort of meant to do the micheluzzi but ended up on this away from the crowds. Jamie led the hardest pitches the hardest I lead would have been UIAA 5
alpinist63 31 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2004 -
Alan Scowcroft 27 Sep, 1992 2nd O/S
with Graeme Ettle
with Graeme Ettle
1 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High VII-
Mid VII-
Low VII-
High VI+
Mid VI+
Low VI+
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set