A classic of the area featuring a spectacular 90m traverse at half height. The route is unfortunately showing signs of its popularity and is becoming quite polished. It is well equipped with many pitons of varying quality and many of the stances are equipped with belay rings.
Start just left of the hollow of a dry stream bed, on a ledge below a large thread at head height. Arrow and route graffiti.
1) V-, 25m. Climb direct then traverse slightly right on good holds above for your hands or below for your feet (any incredibly tall climbers out there have the privilege of using both!) to reach a natural break. Follow a series of short polished yet positive flakes direct to reach a grassy ledge and a possible peg belay, or traverse right for 5m to reach good ring bolt belay on a ledge.
2) VI-, 30m. Climb direct then move slightly left on black technical slabs on polished footholds, reaching better holds midway up. Continue to a small roof, and pass through this left to right on good holds, with a strenuous pull to gain the ledge.
3) IV+, 40m. Climb direct for 10m to a grassy ledge. Follow this left for another 10m, ignoring tat above, to reach a corner-chimney. Climb this to reach a grassy ledge and a ring belay.
4) VI-, 40m. Move up and left from the belay, then follow black rock back right on technical slabs for 20m before stepping right then back left onto a block. From here, continue to a yellow niche, then move left to climb a bulging detached spur - strenuous but on good holds.
5) V+, 40m. The start of the infamous traverse. Move up 1m then traverse right along a big ledge under yellow rock for 6-7m to reach a cement ring under yellow corner of Buhl Direct (possible belay). Descend slightly and continue the climb on polished but positive holds, traversing below the yellow rock. Move around a corner, then climb slightly upwards to belay on a double ring.
6) VI-, 20m. Follow the line of polished holds rising rightwards, then step down slightly and continue the delicate traverse up to reach a line of high holds, passing an intermediate belay. Continue to a technical down-climb of 4m, with logical but blind moves, before stepping right to the stance.
7) VI, 40m. Continue the traverse immediately right from the belay, then descend half a metre to a line of good holds. Follow these on a rising traverse for 8m then make another tricky down-climb, stepping left slightly to reach a good line of footholds leading back right.
8) V, 25m. Move right into a yellow corner-crack then traverse right under a little bulge and pull through with enjoyable climbing. Climb direct on easier grey rock towards the black streak on the right; climb a blocky crack to reach the top of a pillar and a good thread belay.
9) V, 50m. Climb the ramp of good holds to the left of the pillar, then follow the continuation crack up and left (possible intermediate belay on single peg and additional gear). Climb a couple of metres direct then continue moving left to a pegged stance.
10) V-, 50m. Climb a loose shallow corner with a few pegs then continue up the face above, still on slightly friable rock to reach a ledge and a stance.
11) IV+, 55m. Continue easily, climbing another short corner, then move right along a wide ledge to reach the Chamois Terrace. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Goes up the popular Piz Ciaves S Wall via a 90m traverse. Not as serious as many would suggest as their are numerous pegs and abseil descents,. A good climb nontheless
Micheluzzi, Castiglioni 26 Sep 1935.