22m.

Rockfax Description
A good and popular climb. A sustained pitch that contains an array of perplexing sequences split by good shakeouts. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 04/Oct/1992

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Classic Portland 7as (2* +), Portland.


ClimberDateStyle
guy_impey 20/Aug TR dog

Will come back and do it for real...

StrongDan 19/Aug Lead β
Owen Davies 06/Aug Lead RP

Superb route with a balancy crux.

Ian Bell 30/Jul Lead RP

4th go although should have been quicker really. Excellent route with a nice mix of styles.

Widda 16/Jul 2nd dog

1 go up. really nice route. will have to come back some time

GrahamGiles 16/Jul Lead dog

Got schooled on my technique... All the holds were damp too which didn't help the mantle! Will come back for this one

with Joanne
james n 16/Jul Lead O/S
with Lisa P
chris_woodsy 16/Jul Lead O/S
with Widdaz
JPGR 16/Jul Lead O/S
gary9t9 16/Jul Lead dog
slowmotion 01/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jun Lead β
GouldHarry 30/May Lead O/S
adamsriches 28/May Lead O/S

Shocked myself with first 7a clean climb.

Sam4242 22/May Lead O/S

An amazing route, so happy to get the onsight

mishabruml 17/May Lead dog

good route, cool delicate move mantling into the scoop thingy. unfortunately all the holds up to the 3rd or 4th bolt were full of greasy dusty shite and I pinged off one of them pulling over the roof I think. Didn't have time for a second go

R2B 05/Apr Lead O/S
with Tom N
katy_abra 15/Mar Lead RP
artmal 11/Mar Lead O/S
with Anna
tommccluskey 09/Mar Lead O/S
with Elliot, Pippa Froggatt, Christophe
Pippa 09/Mar Lead O/S
with Tom Mc
Hidden 07/Jan TR dnf
RKirke 07/Jan Lead RP

It was very damp but still good fun

mikespooner 07/Jan Lead dnf

Felt hard, ridiculously of shape

Dandan82 02/Jan Lead rpt
Dandan82 30/Dec/16 Lead rpt
Carnie Lisa 30/Dec/16 2nd dog
with Dan Verge
ollie_e 30/Oct/16 Lead O/S

UKC description is pretty apt I think.

will black 15/Oct/16 Lead G/U
Alex Norman 02/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Rockmonkey1977 24/Sep/16 Lead RP

Nice techy route. First attempt today and I think 3rd go in total so pretty 😁. This time I sorted my right foot out before the stretch after pulling around the roof which made all the difference.

Ramon Marin 23/Sep/16 Lead β
Rockmonkey1977 17/Sep/16 Lead dog

Second time on this route, tried it last year but couldn't remember much (if anything). Fell on the balancy bit, needed to get the right foot higher. Felt strong though.

BC 29/Aug/16 Lead

Next go after fluffed onsight. Super route!

Bulls Crack 27/Aug/16 Lead RP
LukePrime85 24/Jul/16 TR O/S
Ricky Rocks 21/Jul/16 Lead O/S
max_dickens 17/Jul/16 Lead RP

2nd go deecent route

with Zakko
afrosam 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S
julesmckim 12/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Great climb. Found the sequences OK, not too perplexing. Liked the rests in between.

feilx 10/Jul/16 Lead rpt
with Floris
Tom courtiour 03/Jul/16 Lead RP
PeterDawson 02/Jul/16 Lead O/S
JackMac 08/Jun/16 Lead RP

I got shut down on this years ago. Went second go today after a hold snapped off on the first. Good fun.

with Nikki_C
Jack93 04/Jun/16 Lead RP
Hidden 04/Jun/16 Lead RP
Hidden 04/Jun/16 Lead RP
AndyF 25/May/16 2nd
with Echna
Echna 25/May/16 Lead dog

Worked it bolt to bolt.

with Andy
samparsons 15/May/16 Lead RP

This was very cool to get done! Lovely climb and felt much easier this time around,

with Emmie
robajob 14/May/16 Lead O/S
with Kt
Albachoss 01/May/16 Lead RP

Great quality from the ground to the top

Kevster 01/May/16 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 30/Apr/16 Lead

choss

with Ben Meakin
Dean177 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Ana_B
John_Beesley 07/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Amazing route! Flows really well but sometimes had to lunge for holds I hoped would be there! Definitely worth some stars!

with mop449
mop449 07/Apr/16 Lead β

So chuffed to flash this. Had to try really hard. Beta helped immensely.

afterthesend 02/Apr/16 Lead β
Owen Diba 20/Mar/16 Lead RP
Hidden 20/Mar/16 Lead RP
Hidden 20/Mar/16 Lead RP
Edward Kwong 12/Mar/16 Lead RP

Thin start, though plenty of rests available higher up. Crux coming left round the roof with left heel. Clean 2nd go.

brian watson 12/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with AlexD
AlexD 12/Mar/16 Lead G/U
with Brian
Matti Puckridge 12/Mar/16 Lead

Not bad once you get past the start.

pymn nice but dim ??/2016 Lead RP
Martin Bagshaw 01/Nov/15 Lead O/S

First 7a onsight!!!

Katsmiff 01/Nov/15 TR dog

Enjoyable climb. More technical and foot worky than pumpy. Reckon this would be doable for the future.

littleluke 18/Oct/15 Lead RP
samparsons 08/Sep/15 Lead dog

Gutted i dropped it on the 2nd to last clip, that would have been a great onsight.

Rockmonkey1977 06/Sep/15 Lead dog

Placing the qd's on the way and was going well for the onsight until I hit the overhang. Once I'd worked through that I fell at the balancy bit above! Again it's worth revisiting to get clean...

Vespa63 02/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Patricia de Frutos ?/Sep/15 Lead RP
ArrMcC 02/Aug/15 Lead RP

Pleased to get this, 4th RP? Mainly because I kept greasing of the start. Up to the third clip was really dusty and greasy but the rest was quality. Loving the gaston rock-over post crux. Great route.

with Chloe Davidson
dswansonlow 06/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Alex Banks
Albachoss 06/Jul/15 TR dog
with Lisa, Dougie
bryan61 21/Jun/15 TR dog
with slawomir
Hidden 21/Jun/15 2nd dog
philhaigh 10/Jun/15 2nd rpt
with Ed Babs
spidermonkey09 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S

On a roll at this point, found it harder than Is Vic There but good shakeouts throughout. Top rockover off the gaston hard work for the short. Top dirty which is a shame.

tsyrett 25/May/15 Lead dog

Greasy and dusty

tsyrett 25/May/15 TR RP
Hidden 07/May/15 Lead dog
ThomasB ?/May/15 Lead β

retroflash

Nick Clement 14/Apr/15 AltLd rpt
with mandy clement
Kris suriyo 12/Apr/15 Lead rpt
with Gary
Hidden 11/Apr/15 Lead O/S
keithpeck 05/Apr/15 Lead RP
Javis 02/Apr/15 Lead RP
tsyrett 22/Mar/15 Lead dog
Pete Scott 22/Mar/15 Lead β

Retro flash

Kris suriyo 14/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Gary
Hidden 07/Mar/15 Lead RP
Rgswarren ?/Mar/15 Lead dog
rjf106 ??/2015 Lead RP
with D. Angland, Angus
dobby 200 27/Oct/14 Lead RP

An awesome route. After falling off on the onsight attempt I went bolt to bolt and managed to get it on my first redpoint!

Benmay 28/Sep/14 Lead dog
LJC 25/Sep/14 Lead RP

1st redpoint.

with Ben May, Phill, George
Hidden 21/Sep/14 -
Hidden 29/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Jon_Warner 29/Aug/14 Lead RP

Felt OK once the moves were dialled. Crux bolt is strangely placed. Good route.**

with Jonny
RadekNowak 26/Aug/14 Lead RP
Hidden 14/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Joe W-O 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
thomasmouse 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S
DorsetGareth 15/Jun/14 Lead β

After watching Andy work out the crux.

tskelhon 14/Jun/14 Lead β
with Tom Jordan, John_Warner
pymn nice but dim 08/Jun/14 Lead dog

got to last bolt from top on lead burnt out messed up a couple sequences. gotta clean it up and work some moves

valecoastclimber 01/Jun/14 Lead rpt
neitsroth ?/Jun/14 Lead rpt

first go

with timothy ekins
sarpedon 25/May/14 Lead dog

Fell a couple of times, will be back for the redpoint.

philhaigh 18/Apr/14 2nd dog
with Aarron Schofield, Mike Gubbins, Shamina Kapadia, Mel Dodge, Natalie Haigh
Hidden 18/Apr/14 2nd
Hidden 29/Mar/14 Lead
Linc ??/2014 Lead β
neitsroth ??/2014 Lead dog

need to revisit

BenL 07/Dec/13 Lead RP
with Ryu
EmilyElouise 01/Sep/13 2nd dog
Hidden 01/Sep/13 Lead RP
Mattlamb90 26/Aug/13 Lead dog

will rp next time

L.miura 18/Aug/13 Lead RP

My first 7a!

with Steve Craig
philhaigh 06/Aug/13 Lead RP
with Mimi, Rob Kennard
LucasHarazin 04/Aug/13 Lead O/S
philhaigh 01/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Mimi, Tom Adams, Shamina Kapadia
Rokmunky 21/Jul/13 2nd rpt
john rensten 17/Jul/13 Lead RP

deserves an extra star

with ellie
Hidden 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Sami Mandeel 07/Jul/13 Lead dog
with Si
Ellis Butler-Barker 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with JackMac
Hidden 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S
maybe_si 02/Jun/13 Lead RP
RFWilkie 01/Jun/13 Lead RP

2 sessions.

Jonathan Emett 26/May/13 Lead dog

fell off crossing the roof then lost all psyche :(

with dan
JackMac 26/May/13 Lead dnf

Gave up after drawing blood! Really enjoyed the moves so will have to come back.

Rowena Clare 26/May/13 Lead dnf
gibsond 26/May/13 Lead dnf

Not a good attempt as came off before second bolt. Bottom is currently very dusty and dirty - needs a bit of traffic. In the end decided to bail after the second bolt.

lewiz 25/May/13 Lead O/S
adam 24 ?/May/13 Lead β
Monkey_Alan 28/Apr/13 TR

TR Flash. Nice climbing, but so cold! Had (mild) hotaches afterwards, was glad I wasn't leading.

Sophie Nunn 28/Apr/13 Lead dog
with Alan, Martin
Sophie Nunn 28/Apr/13 Lead dog
with Alan, Martin
Julie Carroll 24/Apr/13 Lead RP
with Sol Fernandez
ASchwirtz 14/Apr/13 Lead RP
richardashe 14/Apr/13 Lead RP

Lovely moves and sequences starting from about a third up but I wasn't too keen on the start to it. Glad to have got it clean after a few tries.

Jack J Keogan 15/Mar/13 Lead dnf
with Doug Miller
Ed morris 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Good technical climbing. Really pleased to get this. A well balanced route.

with Ian
Tommyads ??/2013 -
Beefy Bert ??/2013 Lead RP
Hidden 14/Oct/12 Lead RP
Justin T 06/Oct/12 Lead β

Flash after crispo had been on it - seemed vaguely familiar in places wondered if I'd been on it before, possibly retro-flash.

Hidden 06/Oct/12 Lead dog
gibsond 06/Oct/12 Lead dnf

Seemed to miss a hold for the move around the arete and beasted myself trying. Will have ago another time.

brices 06/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with duma
Hidden 22/Sep/12 Lead dnf
Thinker01 15/Sep/12 Lead dog

Hard to on sight....maybe next time....

with Ralph Wilkinson
Jon_Warner ?/Sep/12 Lead dog

Seemed to have a really tricky move. Maybe I was doing it wrong!

with Jenni
Hidden 24/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Dan_Carroll 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Graham Westbrook 01/Aug/12 Lead β
Evie 25/Jul/12 Lead β
with Jack
Hidden 21/Jul/12 Lead dog
Hidden 21/Jul/12 TR β
DJ Nelson 21/Jul/12 Lead RP

2nd go

with Paul Jackson
Hidden 15/Jul/12 Lead RP
Hidden 15/Jul/12 Lead dog
joe1joe1joe2 20/Jun/12 Lead RP

All these routes were climbed between 15th-22nd June 2012. Fantastic climb. Should have onsighted it, but fell halfway up trying to climb out of the roof, got my feet muddled and the wrong sequence.

burto 06/Jun/12 Lead RP
with ferdia
mwatson ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Jeronimo 23/May/12 Lead β
paultaylor 08/Apr/12 Lead RP

1st RP

with Little John
dan ely 27/Mar/12 Lead RP
with rtwilli4
EmilyElouise 25/Mar/12 2nd dog
Hidden 25/Mar/12 Lead dog
alek 24/Mar/12 Lead dnf
Martin Cleaver 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
davidliu 24/Mar/12 Lead β
with Martin Cleaver, Alek Kumar
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead RP
Perryman 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with GUY DAVENPORT
Hidden 25/Feb/12 Lead O/S
matt perks ??/2012 -
Hidden 26/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Oct/11 Lead RP
Vince 29/Aug/11 Lead RP
with John Percy
Vince 28/Aug/11 TR dog
with John Percy
Hidden 10/Aug/11 Lead dog
felixthelion 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Really nice climbing, varied. Maybe a little soft

with Dan craig
Macca_7 30/Jul/11 Lead RP

Really spoilt by the poor bottom wall pumps you for the pull over the bulge which is where I muffed the onsight. Easy redpoint first go with some nice climbing once your over the bulge.

Lloyders 24/Jul/11 Lead β
La benya 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Daniel Wicks 23/Jul/11 -
with Radek
Wayne.Gaudin 30/Jun/11 TR dog

Really nice climb. Try RP next time.

with Adrian Berry
Hidden 26/Jun/11 2nd dog
Hidden 26/Jun/11 TR dog
mikeyjbs 20/May/11 Lead RP
with Kris Mazurek
willbatho 08/May/11 Lead rpt
xiangoh ?/May/11 Lead β
J.Wells 16/Apr/11 Lead RP
JasTaplin 16/Apr/11 Lead RP
Billg 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Will Calvert
Hawkscry ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Laurence Everitt 13/Mar/11 Lead RP
Luke Dawson 24/Feb/11 Lead O/S

first 7a onsite in months felt quite soft

Hidden 20/Feb/11 Lead RP
mlg678 19/Feb/11 Lead RP

this is never the same grade as sacred angel!! a lot harder but awesome route, 3 stars for me!

Tom Heslam ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Rosea
Hidden 24/Aug/10 Lead O/S
jacobjacob 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S
tom106 02/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Tomar 01/Aug/10 Lead RP

2nd go. Super route!

3 Names 04/Jul/10 Lead dog
Dandan82 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Zoe
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 13/Jun/10 Lead dog
Ian Broome 31/May/10 Lead O/S
with Matt
Wendy 16/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/10 TR dnf
Hidden 21/Apr/10 Lead O/S
tommytuffa 18/Apr/10 Lead RP

2nd go. great route

with tomar
Leeds 18/Apr/10 Lead RP
nacnud 16/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Marcus Boal, Natalie Tanzer
natalietanzer 16/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Duncan
Hidden 16/Apr/10 TR
rubben 11/Apr/10 Lead RP

First route of the day...warmed-up bolt to bolt then sent it... GREAT climbing and really varied. For me, the crux was stamina and controlling pump...with the bottom 3 clips getting me the most. There are some great rests throughout the route though...really lovely climbing from going left over the bulge...brilliant!

MarkRyder 04/Apr/10 Lead RP
with Rich
Hidden ?/Apr/10 Lead RP
billb ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Lee
Hidden 27/Mar/10 Lead RP
givemetea 02/Oct/09 Lead RP

quick redpoint - one go on toprope then led it

Hidden 02/Oct/09 Lead RP
Hidden 02/Oct/09 Lead RP
steve_biczyk 19/Sep/09 Lead β

Flash after watching Marc doing the crux.

with Huw, Marc, Emma Curry
Pete Scott 08/Sep/09 Lead RP
Owen W-G 06/Sep/09 Lead RP

Had 4 progressively worse RP attempts on the Sat but never got further than mucking up the move around the arete after 6th bolt due to overpump. A frustrating tick-free day. Could do all the moves in my sleep, went back and cruised it first RP on the Sunday after a decent warmup with much relief.

with Gav
tedj234 04/Sep/09 Lead RP

Fell on OS got next go.

with Martino, Kate Campbell
marcpontin ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with huw
chris sm 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Felt quite easy for 7a.

with Pippa Froggatt
Hidden 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
celoisa 25/Jul/09 TR dog
with Nic
Ciro ?/Jul/09 Lead RP
Hidden 11/Jun/09 Lead RP
Ed Babs 11/Jun/09 Lead RP
with Mike Hawkins
Hidden ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
trev_f 25/May/09 Lead RP
with Bungle
dan gibson 24/May/09 Lead O/S
riddle 24/May/09 Lead dnf
with Dan Gibson
Hidden 03/May/09 Lead β
sam_cox 22/Apr/09 Lead β
hippo99 22/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with sam cox
tobydunford 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Jus 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/09 Lead RP
DrGav 11/Apr/09 TR dog

Felt tough but great sequence throughout. Should go back and lead.

with Wendy
Jeff25 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Quite sustained throughout with no one stoper move. Agree with comment below regarding conflicting bolts in the top 1/3rd. Stick slightly to the left which uses the same type of bolt. (the right hand line looks insanely hard)

with DrGav
Jane Weir 17/Mar/09 Lead
SeanyC ?/Mar/09 Lead dog
with tim
vertigo 28/Feb/09 Lead RP
with Tiff
TiffTiff 28/Feb/09 Lead RP
adrianjenner ?/Jan/09 Lead
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
garburn 28/Sep/08 Lead dog
with Ivan
Andrew Barker 11/Aug/08 Lead O/S

I didn't rate this as much as I thought I might - disliked the quality of the rock on the lower wall. The rock and the climbing got better higher up though.

with Chunk
Hidden 02/Aug/08 Lead O/S
schof 29/Jun/08 Lead RP
with joel perry
dannyboy83 29/Jun/08 Lead RP

Fell off last year.

dmoir 29/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Morgan Woods 15/Jun/08 Lead O/S

A few conflicting bolts at top was a bit confusing but excellent route with a fairly stiff crux, strenuous groove and bulge.

with David S
dominic lee ?/Jun/08 Lead
with neil foster, andy elliot
nawface ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 Lead RP
Hidden 11/Nov/07 TR dnf
Martin Krasnansky 03/Jun/07 Lead O/S
guyblackwood 07/Apr/07 TR dog
with Mark Glaister
feilx 17/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Richard Horn 17/Mar/07 Lead RP
LC ?/Mar/07 Lead O/S
bigie bob 23/Feb/07 Lead O/S
onlytovey ??/2007 -
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden 16/Apr/06 Lead
eddieclimb ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Jason Parker
lukea 31/Jan/06 Lead dog
with dan
lukea ?/Jan/06 Lead dog
with dan
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Boy ??/2006 -
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
lukea ?/Oct/05 Lead dog
with Joe WM
Jane Weir 12/May/05 Lead
Hidden 05/Apr/04 Lead RP
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead RP
goi.ashmore 13/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Andy Howe
just one more 07/Jun/03 Lead
with Svenn G
pezzerrr ??/2003 Lead O/S
Jake Shaw ??/2003 Lead O/S
Mark Stevenson 31/Aug/02 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove ?/Apr/02 Lead RP
with Nigel Baker
lx ??/2002 Lead
Hidden ?/May/01 -
shoulders 08/Oct/00 Lead dog
with pete lewis
Hidden 05/Feb/00 Lead O/S
Paul Clarke ??/2000 Lead
with Phil Ralph
The Jazz Butcher ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
clark alston ?/Nov/99 Lead RP

2nd previously.

with Brian Wilkinson
Roget 31/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with jon
Mark Kemball 18/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with Jason Lloyd
innes ?/Jun/97 Lead O/S
duncan 06/Apr/97 Lead O/S
with Alison Cowley, Dan Donovan
John Southworth ?/Nov/96 Lead O/S
with Vicky Munn
Mike Owen 28/May/95 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 14/Apr/95 Lead
ukb & bmc shark ?/Apr/95 Lead O/S
with John Codling
kristian ??/1995 Lead
Nigel Coe ??/1994 2nd

Approx date

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 88
Votes cast 88
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set