Rockfax Description
Move up and then left to beneath a thin crack. Ascend the crack and move left to more hard moves and a precarious rockover before easier ground is encountered. © Rockfax

FA. Will Jones Aug/1996

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland.

Whitmoreaa 05/Nov/17 Lead dnf
JackMac 03/Nov/17 Lead RP

2nd go. Went quite far right at the 'mantle' shelf, possibly too far.

with Kenny
Rockmonkey1977 25/Sep/17 Lead RP

Fell half through the crux sequence when placing the qd's so worked the beta a little more whilst I was there. Then rested and sent! :-D I used the fridge hug/span method and rock over/mantle which was all pretty cool.

Rockmonkey1977 17/Sep/17 Lead dog

Thought I'd have a quick look at this at the end of the day as a future proj. The onsight went pretty well with the first fall coming around the bottom of the fridge hug. That bit and the 'mantle' (don't think it will be for me...) need a bit of work but I reckon it may go in a single sesh... Famous last words!

Hidden 09/Sep/17 Lead dog
Hidden 02/Sep/17 Lead RP
samparsons 06/Aug/17 Lead RP
chris_woodsy 04/Aug/17 Lead RP
with Widdaz
JPGR 20/Jul/17 Lead RP
JPGR 16/Jul/17 Lead
Qisheng Xie 16/Jul/17 Lead RP

No span no fun.

with Maria Banica
Edward Kwong 04/Jun/17 Lead RP

Crux wasn't as bad as I thought once we brushed the holds and sequence worked out. No desperate mantling required.

artmal 29/Apr/17 Lead RP
with Pino
Jay-Ast 17/Apr/17 Lead RP
Martin Bagshaw 08/Apr/17 Lead dnf

Got to the clip where the crux starts first go, which was nice. Will did some desperate direct slopery sequence, and I found the easier fridge hug, but neither of us could make the mantle. Had a couple of goes, but should have stick-clipped it. Good route.

superturbo 08/Apr/17 Lead dnf

Worked the crux, tried both right and left methods. Return for send

with Martin
Alex N-R 17/Dec/16 Lead RP

2nd go

Ramon Marin 24/Sep/16 Lead RP

2nd go

crimpaway 23/Sep/16 Lead dog

Couldn't do one move. Need to try when not so tried.

with Kate Serby
Granitemuncher 04/Aug/16 Lead RP

second go, bottom section is poo. Used the wale hug technique.

with Charly Catalan
RFWilkie 23/Jul/16 Lead RP

First 7b

afrosam 17/Jul/16 Lead RP
feilx 10/Jul/16 Lead RP
with Floris
brices 10/Jul/16 Lead β

Retro Flash, nice to come back to a route after 6 years and find it easy.

chrisscutt 10/Jul/16 Lead β
with si, oly
Hidden 26/Jun/16 Lead dnf
GrahamGiles 29/May/16 Lead RP

Fell at the small undercling rock over then perplexed at the upper section till I found the fridge hugging beta. Felt easy on the redpoint.

with Renna Clifford, Aaron Clifford, Joanne
Aaron.Clifford 29/May/16 Lead RP
Mike_Hayes 30/Apr/16 Lead RP
with Ben Meakin
Thinker01 30/Apr/16 Lead RP

My first 7b! Didn't feel too hard once I'd got all the beta worked out.

MichaelGallimore 28/Apr/16 Lead O/S

My first 7b o/s?! Absorbing moves up the wide bulge.

with Flavio, Ben Philips, Ellie
Hidden 17/Apr/16 Lead RP
littleluke 16/Apr/16 Lead dnf

totally shut down on the mantle/rockover

ThomasB 02/Apr/16 Lead RP

Second go, very good route

Russell Blackaller 18/Oct/15 Lead

1st RP.

with Charlotte
Russell Blackaller 30/Aug/15 Lead dog

Fell off last hard move before chains. Gutted. Climbing as good as Englands Dreaming but a bit more sustained.

with Climb
Hidden 29/Aug/15 Lead RP
Hidden 08/Aug/15 Lead dog
pezzerrr 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Aaron.Clifford 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Nice route! Span isn't as big as it first appears.

climbomaniac 19/Apr/15 Lead RP

2nd go. Stupidly blew the onsight. Tried for over a minute to do the crux via right, until I realised it goes via left. Then fell off on last hard move. But very cool climbing!!

Nick Clement 15/Apr/15 AltLd rpt
with mandy clement
Kris suriyo 04/Apr/15 Lead RP

Too cold and drop the onsite, send 2nd go 2 hard moves =7b!

with Gary
Hidden 21/Mar/15 Lead RP
Hidden 07/Mar/15 TR
Benmay 28/Sep/14 Lead dnf
LJC 25/Sep/14 Lead dog

Clean lead to the 2nd to last bolt and the crux groove. Sorted the moves and clean on tr. One to come back to fresh, on a cooler day.

with Ben May, Phill, George
Jonathan Emett 16/Aug/14 Lead dog

b2b checking it out.

Nick Clement 06/Aug/14 Lead
with mandy clement
Javis 29/Jul/14 Lead dog
philhaigh 20/Jul/14 Lead RP
with Fi Marlow, Aarron Schofield, Vicki Hau, Mike Gubbins, Barry Kerslake, Mel Dodge, Eddy Young, Natalie Haigh
philhaigh 15/Jul/14 2nd dog
with Shamina Kapadia, Barry Kerslake, Gem Minihan
BenL 17/May/14 Lead RP
with Angus Webb, Ryu
rjf106 17/May/14 Lead RP
with Ben
Oddjob 06/Jul/13 Lead dnf
with Rosie
maybe_si 06/Jul/13 Lead RP
Perryman 29/Jun/13 -
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead dog
lewiz 25/May/13 Lead β
chiverstom 05/May/13 Lead dog
patrickc 21/Apr/13 TR dnf
with Sue
Hidden 21/Apr/13 Lead RP
Hidden 20/Apr/13 TR
Jeronimo 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Dave Westlake
Jobbo 07/Apr/13 Lead RP
with Alex
Jobbo 03/Mar/13 Lead dog
with Sue
Hidden 03/Mar/13 TR dog
MartyJ 16/Feb/13 Lead RP
Kopinski ?/Jan/13 Lead RP
Tommyads ??/2013 -
Hidden 09/Nov/12 TR dog
DJ Nelson 26/Sep/12 Lead RP
with Micaela Langellotti
rustaldo 19/Jul/12 Lead dog

stuggled initially, fell on the first RP from the last move! had to use a flake out to the left at max armspan to do the top, which after reading the logs here seems the norm.

sam.sam.sam.ferguson 15/Jul/12 Lead dog

Failed the onsight so stripped it down. Will have another go next time in the area.

Evie 03/Apr/12 Lead RP

Pumpy crux section. Couldn't span the crux so had to find alternative way through the pump by laybacking off the left groove and moving my feet up on tiny nothingness!

with Yann
Linc 31/Mar/12 Lead RP
rubben 03/Mar/12 Lead dog

2nd go

with Marcus O'Leary
Hidden 26/Nov/11 Lead dog
j miller 22/Oct/11 -
i_a_coops 03/Oct/11 Lead RP
tom106 31/May/11 Lead RP
Hidden 08/May/11 Lead RP
Hidden 08/May/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 30/Apr/11 Lead dog
Hidden 30/Apr/11 Lead RP
Dandan82 29/Apr/11 Lead RP

Used the far left long sidepull through the crux which seemed to make it far too easy for the grade? I may have to climb it direct for my own peace of mind...

jgustafsson 25/Apr/11 Lead RP

2nd RP of the day; should have done quicker, you just need to not get flash pumped and keep calm towards the end

with Jen
jgustafsson 23/Apr/11 Lead dog

Agonizingly close but no cigar today. really a bummer, but sweltering hot day and felt very tired. Normal 7b, i think.

with Jen
Hidden 03/Apr/11 TR
Hidden 27/Oct/10 TR dog
Ed Babs 25/Oct/10 Lead RP
with Magnus
Hidden 24/Oct/10 TR dog
GarethHall 16/Oct/10 Lead dnf

Need some work to get this one, but not a million miles away.

Hidden 10/Oct/10 TR dog
givemetea 30/Sep/10 Lead RP

Tried beginning of August this year. Today found a new sequence through the crux that felt easier - first 7b, yeah!

Brian H 19/Sep/10 Lead RP
MarkRyder 05/Sep/10 Lead RP
with James P
thomb 12/Aug/10 Lead
with Darren
thomb 12/Aug/10 Lead rpt

may 2010 - lower section sequence took a couple of tries! august 2010 - things went swimmingly!

jacobjacob 07/Aug/10 Lead β
Hidden 01/Aug/10 TR dog
Pete Scott ?/Aug/10 Lead RP

took ages

Hidden 29/Jul/10 TR dog
Hidden 27/Jun/10 Lead RP
Hidden 27/Jun/10 TR dog
Daniel Wicks 03/Jun/10 Lead RP
La Mont 31/May/10 Lead rpt
vertigo 30/May/10 Lead RP

Really nice climbing with added spice factor. Took the big whipper off the pinch on the first RP. First 7b! :)

brices 25/May/10 Lead RP

2nd go nice route

eddieclimb 09/May/10 Lead RP

HARD 7b imo, although I stayed direct at the finish which extends the hard climbing and definitely bumps up the grade. Really good climbing, pretty soft if you use the flake out left - agreed with Rubben tried that way and seemed to easy and a bit off route...

with Rebecca Edwards
Hidden ?/May/10 Lead RP
Leeds 23/Apr/10 Lead RP
rubben 11/Apr/10 Lead dog

Had one go at this on lead, then top rope. Bottom is easy. Middle section is hard. From reaching up with the cross through to undercling (thin)...and up through the flowstone sidepulls. Did not use the far left flake as didn't consider it a part of the climb?? A previous climber had said it was in though?

with Marcus O'Leary
Rob Kennard 07/Apr/10 -
with Jon Howell
billb ?/Apr/10 Lead
with Lee
Hidden ??/2010 Lead RP
tobydunford 20/Jun/09 Lead RP
with Harry Martin
tobydunford 14/Jun/09 Lead dog
Hidden 31/May/09 Lead RP
tobydunford 09/May/09 Lead dog
with Charlie
Hidden 26/Apr/09 Lead RP
sam_cox 22/Apr/09 Lead β
hippo99 06/Mar/09 Lead RP
with alice stanbury
schof 28/Feb/09 Lead RP
with harry massey
trev_f 27/Feb/09 Lead RP

First 7b

with Andy
Marti999 26/Feb/09 Lead RP
with Harry Massey
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Hidden 03/May/08 Lead RP
Martin Krasnansky 03/Feb/08 Lead RP

2.try missed a hold:(

Richard Horn 02/Sep/07 Lead RP
dan gibson 19/Aug/07 Lead RP
with karing
Hidden 14/May/07 Lead RP
Stephen Roberts 02/Apr/07 TR O/S
with Les Jennings and Pete Trewin
marky ?/Apr/07 Lead RP
bigie bob 23/Feb/07 Lead RP
dannyboy83 ?/Sep/06 Lead RP
with Floris
Hidden ??/2000 -
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High 7b
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High 7a+
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Votes cast 33
Votes cast 29
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set