UKC Logbook - 'England's Dreaming'

21m.

Rockfax Description
A southern sport climbing classic with stunning moves on magnificent flowstone. Climb the fingery lower wall to a powerful midway stretch for good holds. Swing left and finish steeply up yet more flowstone. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 04/Sep/1992.

Ticklists

A Guide for Progress in Dorset , Dorset Sport Climbs A-Z , ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , West Country Climbs , 3 Star Portland , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Classic UK F7s , Rockfax West Country top 50 , South coast sport/DWS ticklist , Portland , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The must do 7's I haven't done b4 I'm to old , West Country Climbs: Sport Routes Grades 5 to 7a+ , The Miscampbell/Stephenson recovery tour. , Portland 7a/+ , Portland Trip , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Unfinished business , Portland Climbs , UK Flowstone , Portland Projects 6c-7a+

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User	Date		Notes
Stefan_TR	2 Jun, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Mid 7a+ seems fair to me. There's some biiiig spans.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Mid 7a+ seems fair to me. There's some biiiig spans.
Kris suriyo	14 Sep, 2020	Show βeta βeta: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=WIdLb5KfD04&t=17s
Show beta βeta: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=WIdLb5KfD04&t=17s
Ben Stokes	14 May, 2007	Show βeta βeta: If you have any doubt about the grade, step left and try Spanner Eyes...	βeta?
Show beta βeta: If you have any doubt about the grade, step left and try Spanner Eyes...
nealh	31 Oct, 2006	Show βeta βeta: Have to agree with Niff 7A+ and low end at that even with 10yrs + worth of polish. Still a great route though however if you think 7a+ and 7B are simular do this and then try want out at the cuttings!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Have to agree with Niff 7A+ and low end at that even with 10yrs + worth of polish. Still a great route though however if you think 7a+ and 7B are simular do this and then try want out at the cuttings!
andybirtwistle	15 Oct, 2006	Show βeta βeta: In reply to Niff... Not done it but isn't 7a+ somewhere near 7b Alan? Just being pedantic.It looks brill and is on my list for the next visit	βeta?
Show beta βeta: In reply to Niff... Not done it but isn't 7a+ somewhere near 7b Alan? Just being pedantic.It looks brill and is on my list for the next visit
nick w	3 Mar, 2006	Show βeta βeta: just a great route upto some good flow stone good rest in the grove if you can find it!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: just a great route upto some good flow stone good rest in the grove if you can find it!
Max factor	13 Apr, 2005	Show βeta βeta: How is it whenever I'm chuffed about doing a route I always look on here to find everyone thinks it is overgraded :( Thought being able to make big reaches through the crux enables you to miss out some of the more fingery intermediate holds, plus there are lots of good rests meaning it doesn't need too much stamina. Solid three stars - it's a great route whatever the grade.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: How is it whenever I'm chuffed about doing a route I always look on here to find everyone thinks it is overgraded :( Thought being able to make big reaches through the crux enables you to miss out some of the more fingery intermediate holds, plus there are lots of good rests meaning it doesn't need too much stamina. Solid three stars - it's a great route whatever the grade.
Alan James - UKC and UKH	31 Oct, 2000	Show βeta βeta: This route is nowhere near 7b. In Portland terms it might be a bit low in the graded list but in the Peak, Yorkshire and certainly France and Spain, it would be low 7a+ and probably only 7a at many crags in France. If you made it 7b what would you do with Pump Hitler, Ironhead etc. ?	βeta?
Show beta βeta: This route is nowhere near 7b. In Portland terms it might be a bit low in the graded list but in the Peak, Yorkshire and certainly France and Spain, it would be low 7a+ and probably only 7a at many crags in France. If you made it 7b what would you do with Pump Hitler, Ironhead etc. ?