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21m.

Rockfax Description
A southern sport climbing classic with stunning moves on magnificent flowstone. Climb the fingery lower wall to a powerful midway stretch for good holds. Swing left and finish steeply up yet more flowstone. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 04/Sep/1992.

Ticklists

A Guide for Progress in Dorset, Dorset Sport Climbs A-Z, ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, West Country Climbs, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Classic UK F7s, Rockfax West Country top 50, South coast sport/DWS ticklist, Portland, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The must do 7's I haven't done b4 I'm to old, West Country Climbs: Sport Routes Grades 5 to 7a+, The Miscampbell/Stephenson recovery tour., Portland 7a/+, Portland Trip, CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ben Stokes 14 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: If you have any doubt about the grade, step left and try Spanner Eyes...
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βeta: If you have any doubt about the grade, step left and try Spanner Eyes...
nealh 31 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Have to agree with Niff 7A+ and low end at that even with 10yrs + worth of polish. Still a great route though however if you think 7a+ and 7B are simular do this and then try want out at the cuttings!
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βeta: Have to agree with Niff 7A+ and low end at that even with 10yrs + worth of polish. Still a great route though however if you think 7a+ and 7B are simular do this and then try want out at the cuttings!
andybirtwistle 15 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: In reply to Niff... Not done it but isn't 7a+ somewhere near 7b Alan? Just being pedantic.It looks brill and is on my list for the next visit
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βeta: In reply to Niff... Not done it but isn't 7a+ somewhere near 7b Alan? Just being pedantic.It looks brill and is on my list for the next visit
nick w 3 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: just a great route upto some good flow stone good rest in the grove if you can find it!
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βeta: just a great route upto some good flow stone good rest in the grove if you can find it!
Max factor 13 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: How is it whenever I'm chuffed about doing a route I always look on here to find everyone thinks it is overgraded :( Thought being able to make big reaches through the crux enables you to miss out some of the more fingery intermediate holds, plus there are lots of good rests meaning it doesn't need too much stamina. Solid three stars - it's a great route whatever the grade.
βeta?
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βeta: How is it whenever I'm chuffed about doing a route I always look on here to find everyone thinks it is overgraded :( Thought being able to make big reaches through the crux enables you to miss out some of the more fingery intermediate holds, plus there are lots of good rests meaning it doesn't need too much stamina. Solid three stars - it's a great route whatever the grade.
Alan James - UKC and UKH 31 Oct, 2000 Show βeta
βeta: This route is nowhere near 7b. In Portland terms it might be a bit low in the graded list but in the Peak, Yorkshire and certainly France and Spain, it would be low 7a+ and probably only 7a at many crags in France. If you made it 7b what would you do with Pump Hitler, Ironhead etc. ?
βeta?
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βeta: This route is nowhere near 7b. In Portland terms it might be a bit low in the graded list but in the Peak, Yorkshire and certainly France and Spain, it would be low 7a+ and probably only 7a at many crags in France. If you made it 7b what would you do with Pump Hitler, Ironhead etc. ?

Logged Ascents

708 users have logged this
170 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 163
Votes cast 157
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

White Rave

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Dancing Ledge)