Rockfax Description
A super climb up a strong natural line. Some strangely shaped holds aid progress on the powerful crux section. © Rockfax

FA. J.Walker 02/Feb/1993

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Red Spot Portland 2016, Portland sub 6b, Portland.

RangerMcFreindly 20/Aug Lead G/U

Really fun root, with a easy but nervy finish. Met a bird nesting on the top might be best avoided for a bit.

StrongDan 20/Aug Lead O/S
tsyrett 19/Aug Lead O/S
JPGR 10/Aug Lead O/S
adamsriches 05/Aug Lead O/S
with Elodie
Tom92 15/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jul Lead O/S
chancer 02/Jul Lead O/S
patrickcd 03/Jun Lead O/S
with Tom
ben1234 28/May 2nd dog
with Marius
Hidden 10/May Lead dog
clemmiethompson 06/May TR dog
with Dave
David Staples 06/May Lead rpt
with Hicksey
Paul Hicks 06/May TR rpt

Got the middle crux on third visit. Have a crack at the lead next visit . Great route.

with David Staples
David Staples 22/Apr Lead rpt
with Hicksey
Rosyk 17/Apr 2nd dog
Jay-Ast 17/Apr Lead O/S
with Rosyk
Hidden 15/Apr TR rpt
Mattholland96 14/Apr Lead O/S
with Dad
kcichy 02/Apr Lead O/S
David Staples 01/Apr Lead dog
Paul Hicks 25/Mar 2nd dog
with Mick Ward
emmafizzle 25/Mar Lead dog


Shane Willis 25/Mar Lead dnf

Part of my '30 routes in a day' to celebrate turning 30. After 2 and a half hours without a break, my arms suddenly gave up on route 13, . Gave up after 2 falls and replaced this route with a 3+.

samparsons 25/Mar Lead O/S
katy_abra 16/Mar Lead O/S
Ossolano78 22/Jan Lead
Kayface42 02/Jan TR dog
with Si
Dandan82 02/Jan Lead rpt
Linc 02/Jan Lead
with Kay
Ellis Bird ??/2017 Lead
harry.morrish 05/Nov/16 Lead O/S
with USMC, lucybradbury
lucybradbury 05/Nov/16 Lead
Hidden 17/Sep/16 Lead RP
feilx 10/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Floris
Hazzar 29/May/16 Lead dog

First 6b. sustained climb with no rests until after crux... bit knackered and late in the day. Great route.

Hidden 29/May/16 Lead O/S
Hazzar 28/May/16 TR rpt

actually my first ascent.

Hidden 28/May/16 Lead dog
Hidden 28/May/16 Lead β
Pete Scott 24/May/16 Lead O/S
Linc 08/May/16 Lead O/S
with Kay
robajob 08/May/16 Lead RP
with Kt
Hidden 23/Apr/16 Lead β
cdpuk 23/Apr/16 Lead β
kingborris 02/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Simon
joeramsay 20/Mar/16 TR dog

A lot of rope-leaning, and a lot of physical pain

with UBMC, Arwah Taha Al-Nuaimi, Owen Diba
UBMC 20/Mar/16 TR
Owen Diba 20/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Mar/16 Lead rpt
mariannekhoo 13/Mar/16 Lead dog

Sat on rope at crux to work out the sequence - the crux holds are quite hidden from below the bulge, but got there in the end.

Martin Bagshaw 13/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Tim
Marti999 10/Sep/15 Lead rpt
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 10/Sep/15 Lead O/S
dohart 03/Aug/15 2nd dog
with herve
Hidden 01/Aug/15 Lead O/S
hervenuttall ?/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Doug
tash 25/Jul/15 Lead RP

Brilliant route with crack, bulge and then random "shield" of rock! Wussed out of O/S but did moves in the end!

with ali k
Hidden 05/Jul/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 05/Jul/15 Lead O/S
mossrug 20/Jun/15 Lead dog

Great route - quite a powerful crux that got the better of me on my second attempt.

with Rob
L.miura 17/May/15 Lead RP

on 2nd go

with Julie Carroll
Hidden 08/May/15 2nd dnf
Hidden 07/May/15 Lead O/S
Honey badger 93 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Kris suriyo 12/Apr/15 Lead rpt
with Gary
philhaigh 11/Apr/15 Lead rpt
with Aarron Schofield, Steve Hau, Vicki Hau, Barry Kerslake, Eddy Young, Gem Minihan
Gem Minihan 11/Apr/15 2nd
Kris suriyo 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Gary
emwarren 04/Apr/15 TR
Hidden 22/Mar/15 2nd rpt
brian watson 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Steve Newman, Sophie Nunn
Sophie Nunn 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Brian
Rgswarren ?/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Dandan82 29/Dec/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Dec/14 Lead O/S
Jane Weir 09/Nov/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/Nov/14 TR rpt
Hidden 14/Sep/14 -
DJ7A 17/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Good fun!

Gem Minihan 24/Jul/14 TR dog
with Shamina Kapadia, Barry Kerslake
Dan_Carroll 20/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Mateusz
Hidden 14/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead
JUSTADUDE 18/Jun/14 Lead O/S
cem 14/Jun/14 Lead dog

1 fall at the crux: an annoying lack of concentration as I didn't think it was particularly hard.

with Pete (Tim's friend), Tim Howard
Marti999 06/Jun/14 Lead rpt
martin one 17/May/14 TR dog

1 fall

with Markus
Rupey 03/May/14 Lead O/S
jshields 03/May/14 Lead
with Paul Tretheway, Ed James
Hidden 15/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 29/Mar/14 Lead RP
Hidden 16/Nov/13 Lead β
EmilyElouise 01/Sep/13 2nd rpt
Hidden 01/Sep/13 Lead rpt
JackMac 26/May/13 Lead O/S

Good fun :)

Rowena Clare 26/May/13 Lead O/S
Tom Brierley Gore 26/May/13 Lead O/S

Great climbing, most powerful 6b i've ever climbed though, maybe there are more efficient ways with careful feet.

tomB 25/May/13 Lead O/S
with Jody
tomB 25/May/13 Lead O/S
with Jody
tomB 25/May/13 Lead O/S
with Jody
Dan_F 05/May/13 Lead RP

Got it 2nd go didn't give 100% on the crux 1st time shit footwork and got pumped 2nd go flew up it great route tho, flakes ring a bit hollow tho, so take care...

leglesslizard ?/May/13 Lead O/S
AndyMcCoy 30/Mar/13 2nd dog
with Bill
Jobbo 12/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Mar/13 TR dog
Julie Carroll 30/Oct/12 Lead RP
with Dan Gibson
EmilyElouise 21/Oct/12 Lead dog
Hidden 21/Oct/12 Lead rpt
Sannan75 08/Sep/12 Lead
Qisheng Xie 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Ben Aldersey
Julesthe1st 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Mike
Ali.B 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Rest before the bulge if you look for your feet.

Hidden 01/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/May/12 Lead rpt
philhaigh 22/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/May/12 TR rpt
pawelx 12/May/12 Lead dog

crux is getting over the bulge

jh123 12/May/12 Lead β
with Pawel Zdziarski
Mr Powly 06/May/12 Lead dog
with Hertha
burto 06/May/12 Lead O/S
with steve
ThomasB ?/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Apr/12 Lead β
Hidden 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
catblack 01/Apr/12 Lead β
Andrew Barker 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
rd20 25/Mar/12 Lead dog

rested at crux - will try again later in season

with Sonya
s.c.white 24/Mar/12 Lead
with Jonathan Fuller
Calder 24/Mar/12 2nd
with Mark
Diggler 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Calder
dan gibson 09/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with nat tanzer
natalietanzer 09/Mar/12 Lead β
with Dan Gibson
Hidden 03/Mar/12 Lead O/S
dunky 28/Jan/12 Lead dog


with char
Hidden 13/Jan/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
Oliver Sherman 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Deniz Sumengen
andybirtwistle 24/Sep/11 Lead

A superb route with a bit of everything

odox 24/Sep/11 2nd
tom.ireson 03/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Nice crux, not too sure how much longer that detached flake will be there though....

with Paul Ackland
BelayBunney 24/Jul/11 Lead dog

Pumpy with a tricky crux move - sussed it eventually after taking a few sit-ins!

Hidden 24/Jul/11 2nd dnf
Hidden 09/Jul/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 26/Jun/11 TR dog
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead RP
Jonathan Emett 15/Mar/11 Lead O/S

wow! what a great route!

with CC meet
Hidden 11/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Tom Heslam ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Rosea
Rosea Day ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Feb/11 Lead O/S
mlg678 12/Feb/11 2nd O/S
patsaunders ??/2011 Lead
PeterDawson ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/10 Lead rpt
mikeconway 09/Aug/10 Lead β
clipskipper 24/Jul/10 Lead dog

Careless fall at the crux

with Duncan
duncan 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Ben Harper 18/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Baby A
andy jennings 18/Jul/10 Lead β
with ben
bercolano 03/Jul/10 2nd O/S

soooo much fun!

bastian 03/Jul/10 Lead
La Mont 31/May/10 Lead rpt
Peterjuliandawson 15/May/10 Lead β
tomB 15/May/10 Lead dog
with Juliette
Ztephan 15/May/10 Lead O/S

feels chossy as f**k, but fun moves

Hidden 15/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/May/10 Lead rpt
SuseH 09/May/10 TR O/S
with Iain
Hidden 09/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Alex More 09/Apr/10 Lead RP


with Mike Hawkins, Ed babs
The Ivanator 04/Apr/10 TR

Nice route.

London Luke ?/Apr/10 Lead
matthewjames 14/Mar/10 Lead rpt
with Mike Byrne
vertigo 07/Mar/10 Lead β
MarkRyder 07/Mar/10 Lead RP
with Rich
mrmike24 ?/Mar/10 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 25/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Harry
Dave Rumney 11/Oct/09 Lead
with Tanya Milner
clipskipper 10/Oct/09 Lead β

Good solid climbing and a good crux. Enjoyable

with Jane
Hidden 01/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Oct/09 Lead O/S
matthewjames 06/Sep/09 Lead dog
with Alex Ghee
trev_f 15/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/09 Lead RP
thomb 16/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Jo
jbulger 16/Jun/09 Lead β
riddle 24/May/09 Lead dog
with Dan Gibson
jw231 02/May/09 Lead O/S
nblackbeard 02/May/09 Lead O/S
AsleepOnBelay 01/May/09 Lead O/S

Wicked route :)

with Sarah Davis
Andy Nicholson ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Marilyn
tobydunford 21/Mar/09 Lead rpt
Dan_Carroll 15/Mar/09 Lead dog

last climb of the day and the tank was empty. nice route.

adrianjenner ?/Jan/09 Lead
Jane Weir ??/2009 Lead
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Matt Bennett 29/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jun/08 Lead O/S
LC ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/08 Lead dog
elmihu 04/May/08 Lead O/S
with lucy
nawface ??/2008 Lead
Kevster ??/2008 -
givemetea 07/Oct/07 Lead dog
Hidden 07/Oct/07 2nd
Vince 04/Aug/07 Lead RP
with Isabel Benzel
Graham Westbrook ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Dorset ?/Aug/07 2nd dog
with Simon Martin
just one more 28/Jul/07 Lead
with jason, tim b, john smith
feilx 03/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Amy T
feeko 03/Jun/07 -
bigie bob 03/Jun/07 Lead O/S
tom.e 26/May/07 Lead O/S
with Charlie Everett
Steerpike 19/May/07 Lead dog
with Bruce
Hidden 05/May/07 Lead O/S
Danos 05/May/07 Lead
with Paul
JPGR 28/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Westy
tobydunford 15/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Apr/07 2nd
trevor macalonan 07/Apr/07 Lead dog
with Tim
Stephen Roberts 02/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Les Jennings and Pete Trewin
dannyboy83 ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
a_radiohead_fan ?/Aug/06 -
Macca_7 24/Jun/06 Lead O/S

Pleased to flash hardest sport flash

with Kirk Foster
chris j 19/Jun/06 Lead rpt
with Nick Strange
Hidden 03/Jun/06 Lead dog
Wilbur 01/May/06 Lead O/S

2nd F6b onsight (proper 6b unlike the first one!)

with Morgan
Hidden ?/Jan/06 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2006 -
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Owen W-G 20/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Dan & Leo
Morgan Woods 10/Jul/05 Lead RP
with Vinnie
Richard Horn ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 31/May/05 Lead O/S
with Nick Cox, Tom Newberry
Hidden 06/Jun/03 Lead β
Hidden 07/Dec/02 Lead O/S
shoulders 04/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with tanya, dai
Hidden ?/May/01 Lead
AlexD 16/Apr/01 Lead O/S
Robmwatt ??/2000 -
The Jazz Butcher ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
Roget 31/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden ??/1998 -
Simon cook ??/1998 -
clark alston ?/Mar/96 Lead O/S
with Craig Macpherson
Hidden 17/Apr/95 Lead
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Votes cast 67
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
Ground Up
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