Rockfax Description
One of the best bits of flowstone on Portland. Scramble easily to a high ledge to start, but gear up first. Climb the black wall to a series of incredible stuck on flakes, follow these to the top. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 06/May/1995

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Orange Spot Portland, The best 50 UK "Orange Spot" Sports Routes?, Portland sub 6b, Portland.

Francescaparratt 29/Oct Lead RP
hthom 29/Oct Lead β
with Doug
Dugster 29/Oct Lead
with Harrison
ben1234 08/Oct TR O/S
derryclimbs 08/Oct Lead O/S

Spectacular flowstone! All the jugs you need with smears for feet. Portland at its best!!

with Ben M
crag_whitelamb 13/Aug Lead
with Groome
LuapRagas 12/Aug Lead O/S

Cool warm up. Hard to read but the holds are all there if you've endurance enough to find them.

toktam 06/Aug Lead
with Nigel
PawelP 06/Aug Lead dog
with Vince
Hidden 06/Aug Lead
tonevert 05/Aug Lead O/S
with Richard Thomas
julesmckim 01/Aug Lead O/S

Love the rock, love this route

Phippy 15/Jul Lead O/S

Gorgeous little climb! Possibly one of the best 6a's I've encountered so far!

Ben Laddiman 08/Jul Lead O/S

Brilliant flow stone route, great moves all the way up.

with Jemma Elson
eoinb 08/Jul Lead

Great route.

suddy 25/Jun Lead O/S
with Eva Hamilton, Rob Siitonen, Carl Heimann
Carl 25/Jun Lead O/S
with Sud, Rob S
The Screaming Finn 25/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jun Lead β
george327 10/Jun Lead
with Eleni Karinou
Hidden 30/May Lead O/S
Julian Prieto 20/May Lead O/S
with James Gregory
RKirke 22/Apr Lead O/S
with Christabel
Ossolano78 16/Apr Lead dog

wet at top

richsmithinbristol 09/Apr Lead O/S
spidey 08/Apr Lead O/S

Brilliant rock! Was a bit wet but still ace

with Daryl
dryvita 02/Apr Lead RP

Upper section was wet but the crucial hidden side pull in the tufa miraculously still usuable!

with John Hanley
JGriffiths 26/Mar Lead dog

Soaked near the top coming under the ceiling

Hidden 26/Mar Lead
rd20 25/Mar Lead rpt

Top tufas black with running water so finished up Ocean Rock to the right

johnhan310 ?/Mar Lead β
mattjackson84 04/Feb Lead β
with Ben
Ellis Bird ??/2017 Lead
ssutton 05/Nov/16 Lead
with Adam
martin one 05/Nov/16 Lead rpt
with ssutton
Qisheng Xie 29/Oct/16 Lead O/S
tomhull 21/Oct/16 Lead β
ladempsey 02/Oct/16 Lead dog
with Thore Bucking
Thore 02/Oct/16 TR dog
with Laure Durant
Chops 25/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Derryn
Hidden 18/Sep/16 -
Hidden 18/Sep/16 Lead dog
Hidden 17/Sep/16 Lead O/S
MarcinK 22/Aug/16 Lead RP
with Piotr Slezak
Tom courtiour 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S
sajrf123 31/Jul/16 TR O/S
Mattholland96 29/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Dad
Bristol_Quornstar 26/Jul/16 Lead O/S
wonder pollo 17/Jul/16 Lead

Beautiful route. Best of the day!

TomZZ 18/Jun/16 Lead rpt
Trent T 14/Jun/16 Lead O/S
samparsons 07/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Connie
David Staples 07/Jun/16 Lead
dparsons 05/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with olidea
garda006 29/May/16 Lead RP
nikki_a_swan 29/May/16 2nd
with NaCl
Hidden 29/May/16 Lead O/S
Jack Shewring 28/May/16 Lead O/S

Wet at the top.

j.kirby 16/May/16 2nd
with nick244
nick244 16/May/16 Lead

Great route, top section was very tricky

with Smeagol
Chris Sansum 14/May/16 Lead rpt
with Lucy Matthews
Livia 14/May/16 Lead dog

1 stop, it was wet

with Ella
cdpuk 23/Apr/16 Lead β
Hidden 23/Apr/16 Lead β
Hidden 13/Mar/16 Lead
Rembrandt 13/Mar/16 Lead β

Linked to Ocean Rock as the top was wet

ihugrocks ??/2016 -
Flavio 22/Nov/15 Lead O/S
rajeshwarbisht 22/Nov/15 Lead dog
with Flavio
hannesD 04/Oct/15 Lead dnf
with adam, Markus
martin one 04/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Lucy
bryan61 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with m meaney
Hidden ?/Oct/15 -
cem 26/Sep/15 Lead O/S
tom_lewis89 04/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Katie Arnold
Nick Sherring 30/Aug/15 Lead O/S

really nice, quite stiff for 6a. wet section spoiled it a little.

Phil Murray 28/Aug/15 Lead rpt

Awesome, a great route to do, really committing crux move. Still not polished! :)

with Steve Wright
Vince 15/Aug/15 Lead rpt
with Mick Duffield
Jen-a-Thor 09/Aug/15 Lead
Ed Houghton 09/Aug/15 Lead dog

Awesome climb, sharp hold at the crux made me fall. Grab it in the right place and all is swell. Like many things...

dohart 03/Aug/15 2nd dog
with herve
Hidden 01/Aug/15 TR dog
hervenuttall ?/Aug/15 Lead O/S

well worth it

with Doug
TomZZ 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
katherinesydney 05/Jul/15 2nd O/S

lovely - best route of the day

The Ivanator 05/Jul/15 Lead

Good climbing, some amazing holds.

db1010 01/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Liv
mossrug 21/Jun/15 Lead dog

Boooo!!! Shit start.

with Rob
MrJoshua 10/Jun/15 2nd β
with Andy Gardiner
garda006 10/Jun/15 Lead dog

nice challenging routes with nice pockets

tsyrett 23/May/15 Lead O/S
David Staples 30/Apr/15 Lead rpt
JUSTADUDE 22/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Very nice flowstone

with Shane
David Staples 19/Apr/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Rupey 14/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with alan
Chris Sansum 05/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Had to finish up Ocean Rock as the flowstone on GWTF was soaking!

with Ruth White
bonoid 22/Mar/15 2nd
9fingerjon 22/Mar/15 Lead dog
with Joe
Rafal Malczyk 21/Mar/15 TR O/S
with Martin Bagshaw
Martin Bagshaw 21/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Rafal Malczyk
Stanners 07/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Brilliant climb with an incredible finish on the flow stone. Took a moment before committing to the final crux.

with Andy G
Rgswarren ?/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Feb/15 Lead β
sideshow84 21/Feb/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Feb/15 Lead dog
poeter210 15/Feb/15 Lead O/S
Sophie Nunn 14/Feb/15 Lead rpt
with annmarie, Brian
brian watson 14/Feb/15 Lead rpt
with Sophie Nunn, anne marie sheppard
kingborris ??/2015 -
Lorène ?/Nov/14 Lead dog

I suspect most of the flowstone has disappeared - I remember doing this route back in May and it had felt like an easy 6a - this time it felt incredibly hard - had to traverse right then left above the last bolt because the rock was almost completely flat straight up; didn't see lots of jugs!

Gem Minihan 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
AaronBosley 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Luke Owens 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Loved the tufa!

Hidden 16/Aug/14 Lead dog
robbo99 16/Aug/14 Lead β
Jackwd 15/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Tom Robertson, Stuart Webster
FatAz 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Natalia Binczycka
Hidden 07/Aug/14 Lead rpt
EmilyElouise 06/Aug/14 Lead RP
with Tom
philhaigh 09/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Aarron Schofield, Mel Dodge
ian d f 01/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Paul K
Joe W-O 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S
bigie bob 26/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/14 Lead
Michael Aylen 25/May/14 Lead RP

1 redpoint

with Macca
professorcobra 25/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/14 Lead
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Nov/13 Lead O/S
danimal88 ?/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with charlie
elyben 26/Oct/13 Lead
cameron_hall 26/Oct/13 Lead O/S
magsb 04/Oct/13 2nd
with John Roberts
dom94 09/Sep/13 Lead O/S


with Sam Huguet
eckleysam 07/Aug/13 Lead dog
with Robert
Mike W 07/Aug/13 Lead O/S
rd20 07/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Legs 06/Aug/13 TR rpt
cathymiller 13/Jul/13 Lead dog
Hidden 12/Jul/13 Lead dog
Hidden 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
robajob 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Maxim2023 ?/Jul/13 Lead dog
with Kate Tarrant
kate tarrant ?/Jul/13 TR dnf
Jonathan Emett 25/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with tomski
m.alexander ?/May/13 Lead
Jonnie Watkins ??/2013 -
mrmattwright 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Bouldery initial move, then excellent varied climbing to what feels like quite a wild finish. Turned my whole outlook on Portland around. Great route.

with Alex Palmer
tobydunford 17/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Kirsty Kerr
Graham Westbrook 01/Aug/12 Lead O/S
David Staples ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S
popov86 20/Jun/12 Lead
SenorVivo 04/Jun/12 2nd
Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Seema 04/Jun/12 2nd
TiffTiff 31/May/12 Lead RP
with Sam Leach
tomshanti 27/May/12 Lead β

really good route,lovely climbing

bradfry 26/May/12 Lead O/S

Really nice climb. First move makes you think it gonna be tricky but it's jugs all the way thereafter.

philhaigh 22/May/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/May/12 Lead O/S
afrosam 13/May/12 Lead O/S
Paul Bowen 12/May/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 12/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/12 Lead O/S
philhaigh 04/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Fantastic climb! 3 stars

Gem Minihan 04/Apr/12 2nd
nataliehaigh 04/Apr/12 2nd dog
with Tobbie Hellsing, Gem Minihan, Phil Haigh
gibsond 31/Mar/12 Lead rpt

No tendon popping this time!

Hidden 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Mar/12 TR
Hidden 24/Mar/12 Lead β
s.c.white 24/Mar/12 Lead
with Jonathan Fuller
Hidden 11/Mar/12 2nd
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead dnf
Hidden ?/Mar/12 -
AlexD 02/Feb/12 Lead rpt
with Helen, Alice
Hidden 02/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jan/12 Lead rpt
btc 21/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with Gabby
matt perks ??/2012 -
Duncan Turner 10/Dec/11 Lead O/S
with stu
Adam_42 19/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Best route of the day. Found getting established on the wall was the hardest part. After that it's a juggy romp.

with Chris Clarke, Xander Cary
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 24/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Danny Crump 23/Oct/11 Lead
gibsond 16/Oct/11 Lead rpt
conorjclarke 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S

6a+ in book?

with Rhona Barr
risby 16/Oct/11 TR dnf

I was all over the place on this. Difficulty after about fifteen feet made me shoot up trad route flake on left then started traversing right and fell. Made it to roof but exhausted and couldn't complete.

Oliver Sherman 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Deniz Sumengen
Hidden 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/11 Lead
Hidden 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
timreynolds 18/Sep/11 Lead dog


mikehenesy 18/Sep/11 Lead dog
with Tim Reynolds
rjshade 28/Aug/11 2nd
Hidden 28/Aug/11 Lead dog
Hidden 20/Aug/11 Lead RP
Legs 30/Jul/11 Lead β

Probably the best climb of the day on some awesome flow stone features. Nailed it on the first attempt.

with Simon O'Hara, Macca
Macca_7 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Superb route lovely rock and some cracking moves good holds all the way and the crux is getting off the ground!

L.miura 24/Jul/11 Lead dog
with Majid
Hidden 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
will_benfold 24/Jul/11 Lead dog
with Miles
Hidden 12/Jul/11 Lead RP
Jonathan Emett 12/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with Lyndsay
Jonathan Emett 10/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with Lyndsay
TiffTiff 09/Jul/11 Lead dog
with Grace
Jonathan Emett 07/Jul/11 Lead rpt

what a fantastic climb, I had completely forgotten how good this is. 3 stars for me.

Cheese Monkey 07/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Brilliant climb on solid flowstone. Big jug exactly where you want it.

georgeous ?/Jul/11 Lead dog
dh4096 ?/Jul/11 TR
dh4096 ?/Jul/11 TR dnf
cayteye 30/Jun/11 Lead β
with stephen pearson
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead β
olllie26 26/Jun/11 Lead dog
with Anna, RICHARD
Coops_13 24/Jun/11 Lead dog

Would have been clean if not for sticking my hand in big wet patch near top and unable to re-chalk :(

with Tom Sturgeon
Sophie Nunn 15/May/11 Lead O/S
with Ben
gidmord 15/May/11 TR dog

Very tired, end of the day

with Tom Horton
vertigo 01/May/11 Lead β

Really good. Hardest at the start but interesting all the way. Worth waiting for it to be dry(ish).

Ben Harper 01/May/11 Lead RP
hotfeet 23/Apr/11 -
Slarti B 03/Apr/11 TR β

Watched a couple of guys doing it but managed to work out most of own moves

natalio 03/Apr/11 2nd dog
with Eric
pelvoux 03/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Very wet 2 bolts from the top so traverse right and come back in for the last bolt

with Jon
Tom Heslam ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Rosea
Rosea Day ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Luke Dawson 24/Feb/11 Lead O/S
with Mike Adams, Charles Dawson, Peter Dawson
brian watson 09/Jan/11 Lead rpt
with anne marie sheppard
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
patsaunders ??/2011 Lead
wi11 25/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Chris Gee
lewiz 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Greg Pittam 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Raff
Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
benscarter 25/Sep/10 Lead RP
with Simon Forman
clukins 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Steve13 18/Sep/10 Lead β
Claire S-J 15/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/10 Lead O/S
tomB 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Juliette
benscarter 13/Aug/10 2nd dog

Really pissed not to have got this one clean on lead. Fantastic start on beautiful flowstone, but really struggled for the second to last bolt on a pretty tight crimp and eventually backed off. Even on top rope still couldn't clean it. Back next week I guess!

Jonathan Emett 13/Aug/10 Lead
with ben
riddle 17/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Good climb with great features.

with Yasmina
steve taylor 30/May/10 -
with Steve Williams
John Tanner 26/May/10 Lead O/S
benthfc ?/Mar/10 Lead dog
with Tim
luke2442 ??/2010 -
Wil Treasure ??/2010 Lead
Hidden 31/Oct/09 2nd dog
Hidden 25/Oct/09 2nd O/S
green_bhind_da_ears 25/Oct/09 Lead dog
mattcyp88 24/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Think I tweaked my right ring finger slightly on the first move.

with Grace Chuchla, Ian Faulkner
ian d f 24/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Grace Chuchla, Matt
Pete Scott 29/Sep/09 Lead O/S

pretty nice, climbed up to the ledge right by the first bolt to belay.

Alex More 27/Sep/09 Lead rpt
with keiha
KDhruev 27/Sep/09 Lead β
drewclimber 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with gordon
Hidden 26/Sep/09 Lead dog
Hidden 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Brucifer 12/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden 10/Sep/09 Lead RP
Hidden 09/Sep/09 Lead rpt
matthewjames 06/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Alex Ghee
sonic46 06/Sep/09 2nd dnf
with Danny & Stu
Kerm ?/Sep/09 Lead
thomb 05/Jul/09 2nd
with Jo
jbulger 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/09 Lead
nblackbeard 29/Mar/09 Lead rpt
with Sarah
Matt Bennett ?/Feb/09 Lead O/S
breed 08/Jan/09 Lead O/S
John Southworth 03/Jan/09 Lead O/S
with Alex Jakubowski
adrianjenner ?/Jan/09 Lead
Jane Weir ??/2009 Lead
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Alex More ??/2009 Lead
Thinker01 ??/2009 -
trev_f 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S
KarlH 30/Aug/08 Lead β
Ugly Kid Jo 17/Aug/08 2nd
with Ruth
LC ?/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/08 Lead dog
Julia Chatterton 14/Jun/08 Lead dnf

Lost all my energy and couldn't make the last clip, have to come back for this one...

with Will
givemetea 11/May/08 Lead O/S
pennyb 11/May/08 TR
with Jon
Hidden 11/May/08 Lead O/S
jl 11/May/08 Lead O/S
with Penny
al99 03/May/08 Lead O/S
martinazando 03/May/08 2nd dog
WillMclennan ?/May/08 Lead dog
ThomasB ?/May/08 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with John Vet
lyneux 26/Apr/08 Lead dog

Final roof not as scary as it looks - just go for it!

Tasermiut 26/Apr/08 2nd
Neil Tucker ?/Apr/08 2nd
with Andras Pinter
nblackbeard 09/Feb/08 Lead rpt
gfoster 09/Feb/08 2nd O/S

Love Love Love

nawface ??/2008 Lead
Kevster ??/2008 -
joshwales ??/2008 Lead rpt
Jonathan Emett 21/Dec/07 TR
topsyturvy 21/Dec/07 Lead O/S
topsyturvy 21/Dec/07 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 21/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Nikki
MontyH 13/Oct/07 Lead O/S

another great route.

with Paul Milton
Vince 04/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Isabel Benzel
Owen W-G 08/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Max
climbingpixie 26/May/07 Lead dnf
with Cider nut
Luke Marsden ?/May/07 Lead RP
with Jonathan Plumridge
nblackbeard ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
jw231 ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
keefe 31/Mar/07 Lead
with Tansy
Matt Shepherd 20/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
onlytovey ??/2007 -
mrtom ??/2007 Lead dog
with Roger HSmith
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden 26/Oct/06 2nd
trevor macalonan 26/Oct/06 Lead rpt
with Tim
sam coward 15/Oct/06 Lead dog
with Tim
givemetea ?/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with Tony Yates
Richard Horn 30/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Alex Been ?/Jul/06 Lead β
dannyboy83 ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Floris
Dorset ?/Jun/06 2nd
Hidden 30/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Joe Marsh 29/Apr/06 Lead dog
with Andre
chris sm 08/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
viking ?/Apr/06 Lead β
Billg 19/Mar/06 Lead O/S
with Paul Bowen
django ?/Jan/06 2nd
with Rob Snell
Hidden ??/2006 -
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 2nd O/S
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Peter Swift ??/2006 TR dog
with sue
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Peter Swift ??/2006 TR dog
with Trevor
Hidden 15/Oct/05 Lead O/S
Somerset swede basher 12/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Toby Dunford
tobydunford 15/Aug/05 Lead β
with Dom Sellers
ASchwirtz 17/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Shona D'arcy
lost.arrow 19/Jun/05 -
Wilbur 05/Jun/05 Lead O/S

lovely route

with Caine
Sami Mandeel ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Matt Sampson
richardr ?/Jun/05 -
Hidden ?/May/05 Lead O/S
Mark Stevenson 19/Mar/05 Lead rpt
Derek Furze ??/2005 Lead
john1 23/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with James
Hidden 04/Apr/04 Lead RP
Dave Musgrove ?/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with Nigel Baker
Hidden 10/Apr/03 Lead O/S
Mark Stevenson 16/Aug/02 Lead O/S
just one more 21/Apr/02 Lead
with Svenn G
Mark A Humphries 16/Feb/02 Lead O/S
with dean howard
Hidden 16/Feb/02 Lead O/S
gonggashan ??/2002 2nd
with Johanna Shiu
migs493 07/Aug/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/01 Lead
shoulders 08/Oct/00 Lead
with pete lewis
AlexD 19/Mar/00 Lead O/S
Paul Clarke ??/2000 Lead
with Unsure
Robmwatt ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/1998 -
clark alston ?/Jan/97 Lead O/S
with Steven Martin
Hidden ??/1997 -
MoWalker3 01/Jan/93 -
with Joe
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High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 100
Votes cast 98
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set