22m.

Rockfax Description
An easy corner leads to a hard, exposed finish. © Rockfax

FA. Marty Hallett Jun/1998

Ticklists

Portland

Feedback

UserDateNotes
dycotiles 29 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Stop being loosers, this is a fantastic route! Lower the belay? Please. The bottom section is easy, but the climb is so smooth that it is simply a pleasure to go up, to feel how every move gets ever so slightly harder until you get to the hard, exposed and beautiful climax at the very top. A full classic!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Stop being loosers, this is a fantastic route! Lower the belay? Please. The bottom section is easy, but the climb is so smooth that it is simply a pleasure to go up, to feel how every move gets ever so slightly harder until you get to the hard, exposed and beautiful climax at the very top. A full classic!
John Wellbelove 6 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Example - Blacknor far south - Master of the rolls area - 'Spare the Fern' 4+ to first lower-offs, 5 to the top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Example - Blacknor far south - Master of the rolls area - 'Spare the Fern' 4+ to first lower-offs, 5 to the top.
nealh 20 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Bare in mind Oblivion... used to just have the peg at 40ft and then topped out
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bare in mind Oblivion... used to just have the peg at 40ft and then topped out
Richard Horn 26 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The same argument here could also apply to Oblivion is Forever (6b) just round the corner. In fact I can think of a number of routes at Portland where the crux move is the last move.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The same argument here could also apply to Oblivion is Forever (6b) just round the corner. In fact I can think of a number of routes at Portland where the crux move is the last move.
nealh 3 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: These forums are full of people suggesting this route needs an extra bolt here or a lower off there. Considering so many of you feel so strongly on the subject the lack of action is amazing. Bolts don't just place themselves, route equipping is bloody hard work. I suggest you quit bitching or people like me won't bother re-equipping and maintaining the routes. Alternatively get a drill and get busy yourself.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: These forums are full of people suggesting this route needs an extra bolt here or a lower off there. Considering so many of you feel so strongly on the subject the lack of action is amazing. Bolts don't just place themselves, route equipping is bloody hard work. I suggest you quit bitching or people like me won't bother re-equipping and maintaining the routes. Alternatively get a drill and get busy yourself.
The Jazz Butcher 18 Feb, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: If you finish a climb where ever you like why are you advocating adding extra lower offs John? Your last comment contradicts your previous ones. It seems from your comments that to you the point where a route finishes is important. And if you cannot complete the route as the first ascentionist did, then you are the one who wants the route lowered (literally) to make it easier for you.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If you finish a climb where ever you like why are you advocating adding extra lower offs John? Your last comment contradicts your previous ones. It seems from your comments that to you the point where a route finishes is important. And if you cannot complete the route as the first ascentionist did, then you are the one who wants the route lowered (literally) to make it easier for you.
The Jazz Butcher 4 Feb, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: In fact, why stop with sport routes John? Just lower off those necky trad routes at the last good piece of gear and claim it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: In fact, why stop with sport routes John? Just lower off those necky trad routes at the last good piece of gear and claim it.
The Jazz Butcher 4 Feb, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: 'add extra lower-offs'!! Fantastic idea! I might be able to redpoint dozens of routes I couldn't do because the top moves to the belay were eluding me. Lets start with Raindogs, just never managed that last move to the chain. In fact, I can do the first move of Hubble. I'll just add a below at that point and claim it. Thanks for the idea John. GET REAL!!!!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 'add extra lower-offs'!! Fantastic idea! I might be able to redpoint dozens of routes I couldn't do because the top moves to the belay were eluding me. Lets start with Raindogs, just never managed that last move to the chain. In fact, I can do the first move of Hubble. I'll just add a below at that point and claim it. Thanks for the idea John. GET REAL!!!!!
John Wellbelove 4 Feb, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Actually what I meant to say was 'add extra lower-offs' to give an early ending to the climb as the route to the last bolt is a great lower grade climb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Actually what I meant to say was 'add extra lower-offs' to give an early ending to the climb as the route to the last bolt is a great lower grade climb.
SteveWright1967 31 Mar, 2000 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent top move but much harder than the rest.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Excellent top move but much harder than the rest.
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Abi Chard 31 May Lead O/S
Hidden 31 May Lead O/S
DanWeiss 26 May Lead O/S
julesmckim 26 May Lead O/S A retro on-sight. A long time ago, before I got better, I failed on the top moves. No such problem today, though the final move is still hard for the grade.
with Finn
A retro on-sight. A long time ago, before I got better, I failed on the top moves. No such problem today, though the final move is still hard for the grade.
with Finn
emmafizzle 26 May Lead dog Heartbreaker. Fell at the chains again.
Heartbreaker. Fell at the chains again.
Kayface42 4 May Lead RP Surprisingly I loved this route. Usually hate it when the crux is clipping the chains but thought this route was just lovely!
with Linc
Surprisingly I loved this route. Usually hate it when the crux is clipping the chains but thought this route was just lovely!
with Linc
Hidden 4 May Lead dog
Hidden 3 May Lead rpt
Cyrees 19 Apr Lead dog Warmup - Slipped at the top trying to remember the mono. Turning into my nemesis warmup route!
Warmup - Slipped at the top trying to remember the mono. Turning into my nemesis warmup route!
samparsons 19 Nov, 2018 Lead β
emmafizzle 19 Nov, 2018 Lead dog
Cyrees 28 Oct, 2018 Lead dog Fingers went numb. Thought I was holding a hold. It was not the hold. Amusing nonsense.
Fingers went numb. Thought I was holding a hold. It was not the hold. Amusing nonsense.
FabioM ?Oct, 2018 Lead β Hard exit
Hard exit
Cyrees 22 Sep, 2018 Lead dog Fell at the top. Argh!
Fell at the top. Argh!
Ian Bell 16 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S Nice route although rather crawling with earwigs. Would agree last move is nails for 6b
Nice route although rather crawling with earwigs. Would agree last move is nails for 6b
RangerMcFreindly 18 Aug, 2018 Lead RP That finish is something. Fell on the flash attempt took a rest and got back on and it went!
That finish is something. Fell on the flash attempt took a rest and got back on and it went!
Hidden 1 Jul, 2018 Lead rpt
Ramon Marin 17 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
with viki harvey
with viki harvey
Phil Davidson 8 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
with Steve Challoner
with Steve Challoner
pearswj 18 May, 2018 Lead RP
Tom Draude 13 May, 2018 Lead dog Pulled on the quick draw to reach the anchor. Lovely crack and jug traverse
Pulled on the quick draw to reach the anchor. Lovely crack and jug traverse
Elodie 28 Apr, 2018 Lead dog Super cruisy route until the very last move indeed...fell twice from the roof until figuring out the mono pinch to the chains.
Super cruisy route until the very last move indeed...fell twice from the roof until figuring out the mono pinch to the chains.
S.Kew 18 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S Tricky finish
Tricky finish
David Staples 24 Jun, 2017 TR dog
Hidden 7 May, 2017 Lead O/S
Jack Shewring 1 Apr, 2017 Lead RP
amontgomery1 25 Mar, 2017 TR dnf
db1010 9 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
brian watson 13 Sep, 2016 Lead RP
with Mike Hawkins
with Mike Hawkins
duncan 31 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
dohart 25 Jul, 2016 Lead dnf Really nice climb apart from top move.
Really nice climb apart from top move.
Brian H 3 Jul, 2016 Lead rpt
Hidden 3 Jul, 2016 Lead dog
hervenuttall ?Jul, 2016 Lead O/S nails last move
with Doug
nails last move
with Doug
jamesb101 31 May, 2016 Lead O/S Lovely climb until the top where I was greeted with an intrusion of cockroaches...
Lovely climb until the top where I was greeted with an intrusion of cockroaches...
Mike_Hayes 30 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
with Ben Meakin
with Ben Meakin
Hidden 30 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
Dohnny_Jawes 30 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2016 -
philhaigh 21 Jul, 2015 Lead dog
with Hely
with Hely
Hidden 14 Sep, 2014 Lead RP
Hidden 14 Sep, 2014 Lead dog
Hidden 14 Sep, 2014 Lead β
lewiz 7 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S Top ruins it
with Radek
Top ruins it
with Radek
RadekNowak 7 Sep, 2014 Lead RP
Simon Allcock 19 Aug, 2014 Lead dog one crux move at top - hard to read
with Wilki
one crux move at top - hard to read
with Wilki
Hidden 16 Aug, 2014 Lead dog
Dizz 16 Aug, 2014 2nd RP
with chris colebrook
with chris colebrook
thomasmouse 31 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
robajob 27 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
RFWilkie 14 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Very unbalanced easy apart from single final move
Very unbalanced easy apart from single final move
theandthem 14 Jun, 2014 Lead dog
Hidden 31 May, 2014 Lead rpt
philhaigh 31 May, 2014 Lead RP
with Aarron Schofield, melD, nataliehaigh
with Aarron Schofield, melD, nataliehaigh
nataliehaigh 31 May, 2014 2nd dnf
with Aarron Schofield, Mel Dodge, philhaigh
with Aarron Schofield, Mel Dodge, philhaigh
BenL 30 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
with RKirke
with RKirke
Luke Dawson 15 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
with Chas
with Chas
Hidden 29 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 21 Aug, 2013 Lead dog
dan gibson 10 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
JJunoir 8 Jul, 2013 2nd dog
Hidden 3 Jul, 2013 Lead
GrahamGiles 29 Jun, 2013 Lead RP Tried this a year ago and got spat off numerous times at the top, but I finally got it and would personally give it a 6b+
Tried this a year ago and got spat off numerous times at the top, but I finally got it and would personally give it a 6b+
Hidden 16 Sep, 2012 Lead dog
etrillaud 9 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
James Oswald 3 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
with Jake shaw, Liam, mark20
with Jake shaw, Liam, mark20
Jake Young 25 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
James Oswald 25 Aug, 2012 2nd
keithpeck 11 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
gfoster 4 Jun, 2012 2nd
nblackbeard 4 Jun, 2012 Lead dog Fell on last move. Nice climb.
with gfoster
Fell on last move. Nice climb.
with gfoster
patrickc 15 Apr, 2012 Lead dog With Oli
With Oli
GrahamGiles 1 Apr, 2012 Lead dog 1 of my all time best climbs! took some massive falls from above the clip as it gets very pumpy getting over that lip, just when you think its over BAM! theres no visible holds and your left stroking the rock for a hold while mega pumped ^_^ next time its mine!
1 of my all time best climbs! took some massive falls from above the clip as it gets very pumpy getting over that lip, just when you think its over BAM! theres no visible holds and your left stroking the rock for a hold while mega pumped ^_^ next time its mine!
kermit_uk 25 Mar, 2012 Lead dog
with Ian
with Ian
phillipwright ??, 2012 Lead O/S
with James Kingswood
with James Kingswood
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Hidden 2 Nov, 2011 Lead RP
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 2 Nov, 2011 2nd
Jonathan Emett 15 Jul, 2011 Lead rpt had forgotten it.
with tomski3
had forgotten it.
with tomski3
Hidden 5 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 Jul, 2011 -
Seb Lee 11 Jun, 2011 Lead dog couldn't crack top beta
with Tim Howel
couldn't crack top beta
with Tim Howel
Julie Carroll 6 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
with Steven Craig
with Steven Craig
Hidden 28 May, 2011 Lead dog
Thinker01 14 May, 2011 Lead dog Failed to find a hold for the last move....
with Kev Stott
Failed to find a hold for the last move....
with Kev Stott
Daniel ?May, 2011 Lead rpt
wi11 16 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S
natalietanzer 16 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S
with will
with will
Takacs 14 Mar, 2011 2nd
with Harry Yarrow
with Harry Yarrow
yarrow 13 Mar, 2011 Lead
zard 13 Mar, 2011 TR dog
Hidden ?Sep, 2010 Lead
Hidden 28 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
riddle 31 Jul, 2010 Lead dog
with miku979
with miku979
BluecrowX 11 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
with Thomas Glover
with Thomas Glover
Qisheng Xie 11 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
with Thomas Glover
with Thomas Glover
Bates 10 Jul, 2010 Lead RP Bottled the last move. Rested on rope whilst I worked it out. Still feels hard when pumped.
Bottled the last move. Rested on rope whilst I worked it out. Still feels hard when pumped.
sam_cox 17 Apr, 2010 Lead β
Robin Head 17 Apr, 2010 TR dog
Hidden 11 Apr, 2010 Lead
vertigo 11 Apr, 2010 Lead RP Fell off this years ago. Hard to grade but not harder than 6b really.
with Harry Boden
Fell off this years ago. Hard to grade but not harder than 6b really.
with Harry Boden
ripper ??, 2010 Lead nice - pleasant and varied, lovely textured rock, good exposed finish
with Chris Warby
nice - pleasant and varied, lovely textured rock, good exposed finish
with Chris Warby
Hidden 13 Sep, 2009 Lead dog
Pete Polish 30 Aug, 2009 Lead dog fell off the last move
fell off the last move
Sophie Nunn 5 Aug, 2009 Lead
Hidden 26 Jul, 2009 2nd
Katya 26 Jul, 2009 TR Would make a top quality 6a climb if the anchor was 2 feet lower. Last move is unproportionately more difficult than the rest of the route.
Would make a top quality 6a climb if the anchor was 2 feet lower. Last move is unproportionately more difficult than the rest of the route.
Ed Babs 19 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
with Harry
with Harry
Hidden 18 Jul, 2009 Lead β
Morgan Woods 28 Jun, 2009 Lead rpt Think i've done this before.....not sure it's 6c, the top move is steady if you use your feet.
with David S
Think i've done this before.....not sure it's 6c, the top move is steady if you use your feet.
with David S
Stefan Kruger 28 Jun, 2009 Lead RP Last two feet of climbing well out of proportion in terms of difficulty. A hard on-sight. Given F6c in the CC definitive guide.
with Sarah Porter
Last two feet of climbing well out of proportion in terms of difficulty. A hard on-sight. Given F6c in the CC definitive guide.
with Sarah Porter
eugeneth 21 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
with tcfield
with tcfield
tcfield 21 Jun, 2009 Lead dog
Hidden 14 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
tobydunford 6 Jun, 2009 Lead rpt
with Sarah Wysling
with Sarah Wysling
Hidden 6 Jun, 2009 Lead
Hidden ?Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 9 May, 2009 Lead RP
Jane Weir ??, 2009 Lead
nealh ??, 2009 Lead
w.pettet-smith 29 Dec, 2008 Lead O/S felt a bit adventurous. weird move at top. would be an awsome trad route
with claire jane carter
felt a bit adventurous. weird move at top. would be an awsome trad route
with claire jane carter
ThomasB ?Sep, 2008 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 17 Jul, 2008 2nd dnf
with Matt, Joe, Mark
with Matt, Joe, Mark
Matt Bennett 17 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S
Mark Stevenson 17 Jul, 2008 Lead rpt
with Jonathon Emmett (YMC)
with Jonathon Emmett (YMC)
Hidden 9 Feb, 2008 Lead O/S
nawface ??, 2008 Lead
Hidden ??, 2008 Lead O/S
nicktr ??, 2008 -
rhino_bill 13 Oct, 2007 Lead dog Brilliant climb, it's got everything! Save something for the end - the hard finish cost me the Onsight!
with vertigo
Brilliant climb, it's got everything! Save something for the end - the hard finish cost me the Onsight!
with vertigo
tobydunford 8 Sep, 2007 Lead O/S
Docent 1 Sep, 2007 Lead β
with pudel
with pudel
Graham Westbrook ?Aug, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 21 Jun, 2007 Lead RP
Bargate_Champ 21 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
AlexD 4 Feb, 2007 Lead rpt
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
Hidden ??, 2007 -
Mark Kemball 15 Oct, 2006 Lead O/S
givemetea 21 Sep, 2006 Lead O/S
with Lucy Creamer
with Lucy Creamer
Richard Horn ?Mar, 2006 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??, 2006 Lead
steve taylor ??, 2006 Lead
Jon Greengrass ??, 2006 -
Hidden ??, 2006 Lead RP
Hidden 17 May, 2005 Lead RP
dannyboy83 ??, 2005 Lead O/S
bigie bob ??, 2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jun, 2004 -
goi.ashmore 4 Jul, 2003 Lead O/S
with Rich Tree
with Rich Tree
Mark Stevenson 12 Apr, 2003 Lead O/S
with Geraldine Taylor
with Geraldine Taylor
MikeC59 23 Mar, 2003 2nd
simon kimber ??, 2003 Lead O/S
with Kev Kierney
with Kev Kierney
Hidden ??, 2002 Lead O/S
migs493 7 Aug, 2001 Lead O/S
Pete Wimbush ?Jun, 2001 Lead
AlexD ??, 2001 Lead
John Southworth 8 Jul, 2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2000 -
Hidden ??, 2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2000 -
Robmwatt ??, 1997 -
Kevster ??, 1996 Lead
10 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 28
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set