Rockfax Description
An equally good experience to Pinch an Inch. Climb to positive holds in the groove. Make a series of technical moves up and right and then back left before easier ground and a lower-off. © Rockfax

FA. Crispin Waddy and Pete Oxley 08/Aug/1987

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland.

blaza1 15/Oct Lead O/S
with Lizzy
lizzabelle 15/Oct TR RP

really nice technical climbing that was tricky at first but once worked out was no problem. Did this maybe 2nd/3rd go!

beefy_legacy 14/Oct Lead β

Nice crux, all 3 of us did it different ways (height dependent maybe), then easy stuff to the chains.

with Simon
suddy 08/Oct Lead O/S
lukevf 08/Oct Lead O/S
with JB
cem 30/Sep Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Sep Lead β
Ian Bell 19/Aug Lead rpt
Hidden 12/Aug Lead O/S
Linc 11/Aug Lead O/S
with Kay
StrongDan 06/Aug Lead RP
john rensten 06/Aug Lead RP
with ellie
RangerMcFreindly 06/Aug Lead RP

Got it on the first RP. Sequency, good fun.

Hidden 05/Aug TR dog
dohart 20/Jul TR dog
with Andy
Hidden 15/Jul Lead O/S
Dandan82 25/Jun Lead O/S
Carnie Lisa 25/Jun 2nd RP
with Dan Verge
ben1234 14/Jun TR dog
with Mike Gubbins
Lessworkmoreclimbing 10/Jun -
with Kev
Hidden 06/Jun Lead O/S
Rock to Fakey 04/Jun Lead O/S

Partner put me on this without me knowing the grade, as a challenge, saying he thought it my style. It paid off. Sort of onsight, some beta ish, but may have done my own thing. Great climb. A bit like gritstone climbing moves mid section. Quite small 2 finger holds n crimpy /powery.

owenhancock22 27/May Lead dog
BarnDawg 27/May Lead O/S
with Loic
chancer 27/May Lead O/S
patrickcd 20/May Lead O/S
with Luke
afrosam 20/May Lead O/S
with TomJ
TomJ 20/May Lead β
with afrosam
Luke_92 20/May Lead RP
with Patrick
helkay 14/May Lead O/S

Fantastic route but such a shame that the first bolt is so far up. Unnecessary and dangerous.

Rupey 10/May Lead rpt
Hidden 29/Apr TR dog
cdpuk 02/Apr Lead RP
with Zoe
Hidden 02/Apr Lead dog
Hidden 25/Mar 2nd
Roland stopps 25/Mar Lead
Ellis Bird ??/2017 Lead
will black 29/Dec/16 Lead β
Alex Norman 29/Dec/16 Lead O/S
with Dan, joe black, will black
dbottomley 29/Dec/16 Lead O/S
Sophie Nunn 26/Nov/16 Lead rpt
with Brian
cdpuk 02/Oct/16 Lead dog

One wrong move. End of the day. RP should be easy next time.

Hidden 20/Sep/16 TR dog
Gingerlings 17/Sep/16 Lead RP
Hidden 17/Sep/16 Lead rpt
RagingPuffin 17/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Matti Puckridge 11/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Tommy Harris 06/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Hannah
chris_woodsy 29/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Widdaz
julesmckim 09/Aug/16 Lead β

Done it before 5 years ago, much easier today

with Mickie Streule, Rob Smart
jsmcfarland 09/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Middle was quite testing, happy for the easy finish!

with Tim
tim.fairhall 09/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Sachi
The Ivanator 07/Aug/16 TR dog

Nope, too fingery in mid section, resorted to hauling on draws :-(

with Alan
hfotheri 06/Aug/16 Lead dog
hervenuttall ?/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Doug
RFWilkie 24/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Rob Laird 03/Jul/16 Lead dog

Struggled in middle section, should be able to do it clean next time...

Katsmiff 03/Jul/16 Lead dog

Enjoyable climbing. Technically fun.

GrahamBEC ?/Jul/16 TR dog
etrillaud 18/Jun/16 Lead O/S
philhaigh 11/Jun/16 Lead rpt
with Ed Babs
Adam Perrett 04/Jun/16 Lead RP
with Simon Fowler, Paulus122, Mick Ward, Andy Dunford, Sarah Perrett, John Leonard
brian watson 20/May/16 Lead rpt
with Mike
pheotleyr 15/May/16 Lead O/S
Giles Davis 08/May/16 Lead RP

1st go today placing draws. Nice climbing.

Hidden 07/May/16 -
Giles Davis 07/May/16 Lead dog
Quitiweb 20/Apr/16 Lead RP
bigbobbyking 17/Apr/16 Lead
with Charles Green
jamesb101 16/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Roger
RKirke 16/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Bevan
The Screaming Finn 16/Apr/16 Lead dog
with CarlWH
Carl 16/Apr/16 Lead dog
with Rob S
Hidden 23/Mar/16 Lead dog
ian d f 21/Feb/16 Lead O/S
onlyfoddington 21/Feb/16 TR dog

Thin and technical in the middle for a 6b.

with Ian
Hidden 14/Feb/16 Lead β
Hidden 14/Feb/16 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden 25/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Gloria 29/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Climbed and threaded in the rain, low crux

with Bekah Ryder
Hidden 19/Jul/15 Lead RP
SDM 19/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Michael
etrillaud 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
robfir 11/Jul/15 -
Sami Mandeel 09/Jul/15 Lead RP
with Steph, Sam Ferguson
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 09/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Billg 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Nik Goile
Hidden 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
evans859 19/Jun/15 Lead RP
RosieYates 19/Jun/15 Lead RP
with Nick M
matthenj 19/Jun/15 Lead RP
with Rosie Yates
Raisinbake 19/Jun/15 Lead rpt
lewiz 13/Jun/15 Lead rpt
with Beata
Hugobristol 01/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Liam
ElArt 17/May/15 Lead O/S

Great moves

Sam4242 16/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/May/15 TR dnf
sam_craddock 04/May/15 Lead β
with Phil Belcher
Hidden 08/Apr/15 Lead β
dominic lee 14/Mar/15 -
with andy elliot
BenL ??/2015 Lead O/S
jezb1 29/Nov/14 Lead
Hidden 28/Sep/14 Lead
nathanlee 08/Sep/14 Lead

Great intro to Portland! Pulled a hold off below the first bolt and decked...

with DWS Crew
lewiz 06/Sep/14 Lead β
with Radek
eel 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Andy J
NielsC 16/Aug/14 Lead
bigdrew 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Eve
samparsons 22/Jul/14 Lead O/S
maybe_si 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
tiffanykate12 29/Jun/14 2nd

1 fall, 2nd bolt.

Matt Bennett 08/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Jonathan Emett 08/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Matt
ConstaBern 07/Jun/14 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/14 Lead
TomRiddelsdell 30/May/14 Lead β
islandlynx 30/May/14 Lead RP
Rupey 26/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 16/Mar/14 Lead β
ConstaBern ??/2014 Lead
Hidden 06/Dec/13 Lead O/S
hankyc 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/13 Lead O/S
jas128 18/Sep/13 TR dog
khalidq 01/Sep/13 Lead dog

Done twice, fell each time in different places, all moves worked including crafty thumb hole!

nataliehaigh 24/Aug/13 2nd dog
with Vicky Hau, Tammy Pay
Nick Clement 15/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with mandy clement
eckleysam 08/Aug/13 Lead dog
with Robert
rd20 08/Aug/13 Lead dog

Rested between 2 and 3 bolts

with Sam
pezzerrr 07/Aug/13 Lead O/S
EmilyElouise 03/Aug/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 28/Jul/13 Lead O/S
EmilyElouise 28/Jul/13 2nd RP
Hidden 26/Jul/13 Lead dog
Hidden 12/Jul/13 Lead dog
Hidden 11/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Jay-Ast 19/Jun/13 Lead RP
with Rosyk
cameron_hall 01/Jun/13 Lead β
with Luke Castiglio
Ian Bell 18/May/13 TR dog

1 fall. TR as bad ankle.

with Mikael
Julesthe1st 18/May/13 Lead O/S
with Tania
philhaigh 16/May/13 Lead rpt
with Mike Gubbins, Shamina Kapadia, Natalie Haigh
nataliehaigh 16/May/13 Lead dnf
philhaigh 09/May/13 Lead rpt
with Shamina Kapadia
Cat Hendrie 06/May/13 -
nataliehaigh 06/May/13 2nd rpt
nataliehaigh 05/May/13 2nd dog
philhaigh 05/May/13 Lead rpt
with Vicki Hau, Natalie Haigh
marcb 04/May/13 Lead O/S
with Ed Ratcliffe
Jobbo 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Alex, Matt Carwardine
alan1234 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Luxulyan 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Tess Lyons
SamStokes 03/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Mar/13 2nd O/S
Ciro 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Solly
RadekNowak ??/2013 Lead O/S
nblackbeard 27/Oct/12 Lead dog

1 fall. Didn't give it enough respect as I thought it was a 6a (which turned out to be to the left). Thought it was a little stiff for 6a :-p. Technical climbing which eases up the higher you go.

Hidden 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S
will moy 09/Sep/12 Lead RP
with sophie
Haydn Jones 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with pep
Jake Young 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
James Oswald 26/Aug/12 2nd
Brian H 19/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Martin Slater
redjerry 09/Aug/12 Lead O/S
brices 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Gav
anjaclaire 15/Jul/12 Lead RP

first clean lead 6B and/or 6B+, stoked! technical, flowy moves, though slightly reachy for short people like me.

misterb 01/Jul/12 Lead O/S


with justin
Hidden 30/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Mr Powly 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Rozzy
burto 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with steve
nataliehaigh 17/Jun/12 2nd RP

I'd been on the bottom part of the climb before according to my logbook, but I don't remember it. I was told it was a 6a so I got on as a second and climbed it. Found it hard, but couldn't believe it when I was told afterwards that it was a 6b+ - I've never climbed one clean before! Now I'm working on building up the confidence to lead it.

with Steve Hau, Mel Dodge, Rob Kennard, Terry Finlay, Eddy Young, Mike Hawkins, Jane Weir, Phil Haigh
Tru 19/May/12 Lead RP
pelvoux 19/May/12 TR O/S

Last climb of the day

with Natalio
rxmac 05/May/12 Lead O/S
nataliehaigh 30/Apr/12 TR dnf
philhaigh 30/Apr/12 Lead RP
Hidden 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Abi Chard 01/Mar/12 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 TR
Graham C 23/Nov/11 Lead

Ground up

with Marti
Jonathan Emett 20/Nov/11 Lead rpt
with Paul
tradguy 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with John Mitchener
Jonathan Emett 15/Oct/11 Lead rpt
with toby
Sophie Nunn 15/Oct/11 Lead rpt
with Toby
Toby Dunn 15/Oct/11 Lead
with Sophie Nunn
dan gibson 21/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with julie carroll
Jonathan Emett 15/Sep/11 Lead rpt
with rupe
Rupey 15/Sep/11 Lead RP
Alex Mason 14/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Superb climbing, really flowing.

with Dan Gibson
Takacs 03/Sep/11 2nd
with Jack Brougham
Brian H 14/Aug/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/Aug/11 Lead dog
Hidden 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S
jfreeman 12/Aug/11 Lead O/S
simonr 12/Aug/11 Lead β
dswansonlow 10/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with John Tanner
J5Kay 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S
jbulger 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/11 Lead
embob 01/Aug/11 Lead

Inch Perfect (6b) in the CC guide? Nice, technical climbing. I'm sure the direct version on a mono wasn't necessary! Good contrast to the routes on Blacknor. AE, FBC.

with Alex
felixthelion 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S


with Dan craig
sarpedon 31/Jul/11 Lead dog

Last climb of the day, a bit too tired for a clean onsight.

Hidden 09/Jul/11 Lead dog
Hidden 30/Jun/11 Lead rpt
gibsond 30/Jun/11 Lead RP

Good technical route - lots of fun.

Hidden 25/Jun/11 Lead dog
Hidden 25/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Lyndsay Superclimber 14/Jun/11 Lead RP

1st 6b+ lead :-)

J5Kay 14/Jun/11 Lead O/S
PeterDawson 04/Jun/11 TR
Jonathan Emett 17/May/11 Lead rpt
with Lyndsay
Hidden 17/May/11 TR rpt
Hidden 14/May/11 TR O/S
Kyle F 05/May/11 Lead O/S
KDhruev 05/May/11 Lead RP
Dave Reeve 01/May/11 TR
with Steve Cousins
hotfeet 25/Apr/11 TR

one fall

Alison2 20/Apr/11 2nd dog
Robin Head 02/Apr/11 TR O/S
with James R
Hidden 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Daniel ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
robandian ?/Apr/11 -
Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead dog
Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead RP
Hidden 27/Mar/11 TR RP
Tomar 20/Mar/11 Lead rpt
el_monty 13/Mar/11 Lead RP
with Si
robajob 13/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Kt
Hidden 13/Mar/11 Lead RP
Hidden 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Martin Brierley 12/Mar/11 Lead dog
Hidden 08/Mar/11 Lead O/S
mike lawrence? 08/Mar/11 Lead
with James the Navigator, Colin
tobydunford 05/Mar/11 Lead β
Hidden ?/Jan/11 Lead O/S
Luke Dawson 07/Nov/10 Lead O/S

good moves shame its not longer

Hidden 07/Nov/10 Lead O/S
Barry Kerslake 06/Nov/10 Lead rpt
with Mike G
Hidden 24/Oct/10 TR dog
Hidden 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S
michael burrows 30/Sep/10 TR dog
tania 05/Sep/10 TR
with mike
Jonathan Emett 04/Sep/10 Lead rpt
with mike pinney
ThomasB ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
jacobjacob 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
mlg678 09/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Duncan Campbell 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Nice..some reachy moves made it feel hard for me but also the fact it was technical was in my favour.... 6b+

with Mikey G
eugeneth 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Tomar 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Emma-Louise Anderson 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S
bbrowne 26/Jun/10 Lead RP
with Kelly Atkin
nickwhimster 19/Jun/10 Lead dog

1 fall

with Matt Barnet
Hidden 02/Jun/10 Lead β
Daniel Wicks 02/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/10 Lead O/S
J5Kay 07/May/10 Lead
sparkass 01/May/10 Lead O/S
with John Bent
Hidden 27/Apr/10 TR dog
mikeshewring 18/Apr/10 Lead RP
London Luke ?/Apr/10 Lead
Hidden 27/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/10 Lead O/S
sam_cox 08/Mar/10 Lead β
andy jennings 07/Mar/10 Lead β
with ben
trev_f 07/Mar/10 Lead rpt
with Mike H
Hidden ?/Feb/10 Lead
chris sm 30/Jan/10 Lead rpt
with Ian Butterworth
Ben Vieyra ??/2010 Lead O/S
jh123 ??/2010 -
Tom Heslam ??/2010 Lead O/S
with Rosea
Jane Weir ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
jld579 ??/2010 Lead
Ian JL 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 10/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Matt
Tim M 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
chris sm 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
mynameisjen 18/Aug/09 Lead dog
hippo99 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with rache, joe
mjeffery 28/Jul/09 Lead
Hidden 26/Jul/09 Lead RP
pawelx ?/Jul/09 Lead RP

first 6b+

tobydunford 28/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Chris Sansum 27/Jun/09 Lead dog
with Gary Lewin
Hidden 24/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Jon_Warner 06/Jun/09 Lead β

Good bouldery sequence, quite low in the grade.

with Tom
clgladiator 29/May/09 Lead O/S
with trev_f
Hidden 09/May/09 Lead dog
Vince 25/Apr/09 Lead rpt
with Paul Ashley
briar4012 12/Apr/09 TR dog
with Michael
Hidden 11/Apr/09 2nd dog
trev_f 06/Apr/09 Lead rpt
with Maddy
trev_f 04/Apr/09 Lead rpt
with Andy
Mr Tickle 02/Apr/09 Lead O/S

awesome technical moves. Night climb

with davenev
Ben Harper 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
trev_f 20/Mar/09 Lead rpt
with Harry
trev_f 07/Mar/09 Lead rpt
with Ed
Ed Babs 07/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Trevor
Hidden ?/Mar/09 2nd dog
Hidden 28/Feb/09 Lead O/S
EmmanuelF 28/Feb/09 Lead
schof 19/Feb/09 -
with harry massey
trev_f 19/Feb/09 Lead rpt
with Andy
feilx 24/Jan/09 Lead rpt
with Andy L
Sparky!!!3 03/Jan/09 Lead
BenNorman ??/2009 Lead O/S
Pete Sanger ??/2009 TR dog
with chris
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Alex More ??/2009 Lead
jl 29/Dec/08 Lead dog
with Penny
bigbobbyking 24/Oct/08 Lead RP

Felt easy on the red point once I'd worked out my sequence. Felt so smooth that I almost forgot to clip the second bolt, Mark was shitting himself watching!

with Mark Tomlinson
Matt Shepherd 16/Oct/08 Lead O/S
steve taylor 02/Aug/08 Lead rpt
Hidden 26/Jul/08 Lead
MarkRyder 26/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Rich
Hidden 26/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Matt Bennett 12/Jul/08 Lead O/S
BobbyH 12/Jul/08 TR dog
with NI
Hidden 06/Jul/08 Lead O/S
chris sm 15/Jun/08 Lead rpt
with Pippa Froggatt
dominic lee ?/Jun/08 Lead
with andy elliot
trev_f 29/May/08 Lead O/S
with Jon
garburn 18/May/08 Lead RP
with Heather Rogers
bpmclimb 02/Apr/08 Lead dog
with Mark
vertigo 10/Feb/08 Lead RP
with Cat Higgs
Sophie Nunn 27/Nov/07 Lead
chris sm 11/Aug/07 Lead RP
with Pippa Froggatt
Hidden 28/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Oliver Sherman 21/Jul/07 Lead O/S
richardr ?/Jun/07 Lead RP
feilx 19/May/07 Lead O/S
dmoir 19/May/07 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 19/May/07 Lead O/S
with Dave Moir, Felix Coxwell
_m.cox_ ?/May/07 Lead O/S
with Jo Stadden
AlexD 11/Mar/07 Lead rpt
ASchwirtz 11/Mar/07 TR O/S
Hidden 11/Mar/07 Lead β
trevor macalonan 22/Feb/07 Lead dog
with Matt P
bigie bob 17/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
steve taylor 23/Dec/06 TR
with mark reeves
JPGR 18/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with Paul
lukea 28/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with dan
nathanmanc 07/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Chris Todd
Hidden 07/Aug/06 TR O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/06 Lead RP
givemetea 05/Jun/06 2nd dog
with Ann Chong
aged_ape ?/May/06 Lead RP
Boy ??/2006 -
feeko ??/2006 -
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Morgan Woods ?/May/05 Lead rpt
with Wilbur
Hidden ?/May/05 Lead dog
Owen W-G 16/Apr/05 Lead RP

Clean on second attempt.

with Rigby
Richard Horn ??/2005 Lead O/S
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/03 Lead rpt
rob.grafton 16/Aug/03 Lead
with Simon Wood, Jim, Bruce
EllieWoods 05/Jul/03 2nd O/S
with Ian Denton
The Jazz Butcher ??/2003 -
Hidden 04/Jun/02 Lead β
goi.ashmore 15/May/02 Lead O/S
with Duncan Powell
shoulders 26/Jul/01 Lead
Hidden 21/Jul/01 Lead
migs493 27/May/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/May/01 Lead O/S
tompercy 21/May/01 2nd
Hidden ?/May/01 Lead O/S
Ian Jones ??/2001 Lead O/S
with Karen Ghiselli
Hidden ?/Sep/00 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/00 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
Robmwatt ??/2000 -
Hidden ?/Aug/99 Lead O/S
duncan 20/Mar/99 Lead O/S
with Rei Kozaki
CrashMat Rob 23/May/98 Lead O/S
with Nicky
John Southworth ?/May/97 Lead O/S
Neil R 29/Mar/97 Lead
with Richard W
phardman 27/Mar/97 Lead O/S
buzby78 18/May/96 Lead RP
Roget 10/May/96 Lead O/S
with jon
Kevster ??/1996 Lead
Dave Musgrove 17/Jul/95 Lead O/S
with Lyn
rob.grafton 28/May/95 Lead
with Bruce
Mark Kemball 12/Mar/95 Lead O/S
Dringo ??/1995 -
Ben Thorne ??/1995 Lead RP

Great moves. Still think this is THE benchmark Portland 6b and no harder.

with Rich Howard
Nigel Coe ?/Jun/93 2nd
clark alston ?/Feb/93 Lead O/S
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Votes cast 91
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