Rockfax Description
A long stamina-route that is one of the region's best grade 6 sport climbs. Move up to the overhang and negotiate it on the right before heading up the wall above to a corner with a good crack in it. Climb the corner and the left-trending groove above to a roof and swing right along the breaks until it is possible to pull up onto the headwall and finish rightwards. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 10/Jul/1990

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, West Country Climbs, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Kit Perry's 2013 Mission Statement, South coast sport/DWS ticklist, ULMC Classics, Portland 3 stars grades 6 and below, Portland, Spanish crew 2018.

adamsriches 19/Nov/17 Lead rpt
JendeHoxar 18/Nov/17 Lead β
with Flavio
Hidden 18/Nov/17 Lead
Flavio 18/Nov/17 Lead O/S
dbrooks 05/Nov/17 Lead O/S
with Chris S
Brian H 31/Oct/17 Lead rpt
with Martin Slater
Carl 29/Oct/17 Lead O/S

Brilliant route. Took me a while to commit to the move up just before the traverse near the end.

Jonny Nick 23/Oct/17 Lead O/S
Qisheng Xie 15/Oct/17 Lead O/S

Long and reachy feels hard for the grade

Hidden 08/Oct/17 Lead dog
Hidden 08/Oct/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Oct/17 Lead RP
Hidden 08/Oct/17 Lead rpt
cem 30/Sep/17 Lead dnf

Defeated by a very greasy flat hold while swinging right along the breaks and fell off twice. Not ideal conditions for it.

with James Morgan, Graham Dolman
Fara_petale 17/Sep/17 Lead RP
badgerjockey 02/Sep/17 Lead O/S
with Holly
Jamie Jacques 27/Aug/17 Lead O/S
nacnud 27/Aug/17 Lead β
JKinsella 19/Aug/17 Lead β

Amazing route. Flash without any beta!

with Sam
JPGR 17/Aug/17 Lead O/S
MichaelCow 15/Aug/17 2nd

Dogged a few moves from the top just below the pockets

MaryEC 13/Aug/17 Lead dnf
with Miguel
Hidden 12/Aug/17 Lead O/S
StrongDan 06/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/17 Lead RP
Jan Masat 30/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Excellent warm up.

adamsriches 29/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Great route, super pumpy and sustained at the top.

Q.Estelles 16/Jul/17 Lead O/S
bede.west 12/Jul/17 Lead rpt

Does it count as ground up when it's a repeat ascent?(probably not!) Pulled a hold off on my first go and nearly killed Dan belaying me and thus myself! :S And I thought top 50s were solid, watch out!

EJWest 08/Jul/17 TR dog
leglesslizard 19/Jun/17 Lead RP
Dale Comley 18/Jun/17 Solo O/S

Lead rope soloing and climbing in 25 degrees direct sun made this feel harder than 6b+

emmafizzle 16/Jun/17 Lead dog

Rested at the crux to figure out which way was best for me. Managed the greasy ledge clip fine. Holy shit I hated the top! Hyperventilated the whole way to the bolts and the ride down. Cool route but won't be redpoining!

kmcmonagle 15/Jun/17 Lead dog
with Nick Wood
hankyc 11/Jun/17 Lead O/S
Tristan.Stricker 03/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Bad ass route. Loved the top!

with Jena
meinecke 03/Jun/17 2nd
Ian MK 27/May/17 Lead rpt
with Anna
flash13 13/May/17 Lead O/S

what an amazing line. a little dusty at the bottom but climbing through the groove is brilliant. slightly pumped at the finish so very happy with the o/s

with Aurelia
Hidden 07/May/17 Lead O/S
lena.drapella 06/May/17 Lead dog

Rainy and greasy. Fell of the top, but the route is awesome.

with Anna Gibson, Abi Marchent
Roland stopps 29/Apr/17 Lead dog

Mest up end as did not look at book.

Brian H 23/Apr/17 Lead rpt

Did twice.

with Martin Slater
Mattholland96 23/Apr/17 Lead dog

So pumped! once i worked out the sequence it was good, but found the very top a challenge!

Owen Davies 16/Apr/17 Lead O/S
luke glaister 14/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Utterly brilliant. Loved the crux moves and the big rockover at the top. So good.

with Matt, Ed Atkinson , RobinJones, Jimmysmith1577
adamcbrewer 14/Apr/17 Lead dog

Nearly onsighted, just messed up the roof traverse; top ledge is better. Viki likes a lot of slack in the rope!

Hidden 14/Apr/17 Lead dnf
Hidden 02/Apr/17 Lead dog
Ian Bell 01/Apr/17 Lead rpt

Great as always

gem_stone12 ?/Apr/17 Lead O/S
nimajneb ?/Apr/17 Lead O/S
artmal 25/Mar/17 Lead rpt
with Marzena
Hidden 25/Mar/17 Lead dog
Hidden 12/Mar/17 Lead O/S
blaza1 11/Mar/17 Lead rpt
with Lizzy
tsyrett 21/Jan/17 Lead RP

Very cold day, couldnt feel anything! but got it second go once id found the good holds through the crux. very fun climbing through and out of the crack!

with jjdaly
Bettymolly ??/2017 Lead O/S
afterthesend ??/2017 Lead RP
Ellis Bird ??/2017 -
Ellis Bird ??/2017 Lead
Stroppy 28/Dec/16 Lead RP

2nd go

RKirke 28/Dec/16 Lead G/U
AndrewP 27/Oct/16 Lead RP

Second RP attempt. Got pumped and took the exciting fall/swing on the top clip the day before. Brilliant climb but the bolts are quite spaced out lower down.

FelixPeterken 26/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Good warm up, rests can be found

Kayface42 09/Oct/16 2nd rpt

Done! 4 attempts. Gorgeous route! One of the best I've ever climbed :) Not sure I fancy the lead yet but one day...

with Si
Linc 09/Oct/16 Lead rpt
with Kay
Linc 02/Oct/16 Lead rpt
with Kay
Chubbard 01/Oct/16 Lead rpt
with AJM
AJM 01/Oct/16 Lead β
Hidden 24/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Tom courtiour 24/Sep/16 Lead dog
TomJ 17/Sep/16 Lead

Still feels hard 2 years on - I'd say 6c and harder than No Man is an Island!

with Kieran
RagingPuffin 17/Sep/16 Lead dog

Foothold broke of, resulting in a swing. Absolutely gutted, but will come back for the redpoint.

Dave Cale 11/Sep/16 Lead β
Hidden 11/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/16 Lead RP
Widda 14/Aug/16 2nd dog

got to the ledges in one burn then went up the wrong way and powered out.

chancer 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Ed Wigmore
jsmcfarland 09/Aug/16 Lead dog

Faffed too long and suspect I went too high trying to hand-traverse the break from too far left, ended up falling a move or two from safety. Tim used a much better looking sequence that was a bit more direct.

with Tim
tim.fairhall 09/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Sachi
dohart 08/Aug/16 TR

Flashed ! Really pleased with stamina

with herve
Widda 07/Aug/16 2nd dog

Made it to the move after the top of the groove before resting. Finally had the balls for the slabby bit - loads of polish means you gotta find the fresh rock where its avail. Too smashoed in the arms for the final sequence so pretty much did it move by move (occasionally 2 at a time). Proj: would be a goody to get ticked!

josefft 06/Aug/16 Lead dnf
with Hannah
chris_woodsy 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Widdaz
hfotheri 06/Aug/16 Lead dog
with josefft
hervenuttall ?/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Doug
katiep 30/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Great route, favourite of the day

with Tina Parsonage
Ian Bell 30/Jul/16 Lead rpt

Warm up, excellent as always

Xelif 25/Jul/16 Lead dog
with Jen
Wood for Trees 24/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Flo Barton
Jen BXM S 24/Jul/16 TR dog
Chris Redding 22/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Very good climbing that is neither too hard or too easy.. it doesn't let up either

with Boulders Crew, Spillers
Ricky Rocks 22/Jul/16 Lead O/S
huwbrace 22/Jul/16 TR dog
bryan61 17/Jul/16 Lead rpt
with m meaney
Trisha Murphy 16/Jul/16 Lead rpt
afrosam 16/Jul/16 Lead rpt
poeter210 10/Jul/16 Lead RP
with carlos, argentinian machine
bede.west 25/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Cool! despite being damp

Tomas P 25/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Aelita
evans859 14/Jun/16 Lead RP

Almost onsighted, but was unsure which anchor to head for and bottled it. Sent it 2nd try!

with Mondane Fouqueray, Shannon Kitley
Hidden 11/Jun/16 Lead RP
Hidden 08/Jun/16 Lead rpt
j_aaake 06/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Jack93 06/Jun/16 Lead RP
tyho 06/Jun/16 Lead RP
tombrol 30/May/16 Lead RP
with Marta
EmilyElouise 29/May/16 Lead O/S
with ruth, Vicky and Helen
Hidden 29/May/16 Lead dog
artmal 29/May/16 Lead rpt
lewiz 29/May/16 Lead rpt
with Yan Mao
Hidden 15/May/16 Lead dog
Rockmonkey1977 15/May/16 Lead rpt

Warm up again today, this time clean! A very nice route and probably is 6b+ once you find all the holds...

Rockmonkey1977 14/May/16 Lead dog

Warm up climb, fell at the crux. Seems quite a tricky crux for 6b+ but maybe I misread it...

Lee_Meaden 08/May/16 Lead O/S
ali.scott 07/May/16 Lead dnf

pumpy last moves!

with Soph
WillAndrew 07/May/16 Lead RP
with Tom N, Ali
Hidden 07/May/16 2nd
Gloria 07/May/16 Lead
with Eric Pieuchot
ThomN 07/May/16 Lead dog
wallen89 ?/May/16 TR dnf

Fell three times on attempt for last bolt, on that big shelf. Will be back...

Marti999 30/Apr/16 Lead rpt
with Debbie
Gloria 30/Apr/16 Lead
with Eric Pieuchot
MartinW92 24/Apr/16 TR dog
Hidden 16/Apr/16 Lead rpt
Amy UT 13/Apr/16 Lead dog
with Glyn
Glyn 13/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Amy
Hidden 02/Apr/16 Lead rpt
Jack Shewring 02/Apr/16 Lead dog
Kipper-Phil Smith 21/Mar/16 Lead
with Shaun
Charlie1653 13/Mar/16 Lead dog

A very long and fun climb!, the last bolt is very exposed/fun!

Rich2002 13/Mar/16 Lead dog

1 fall at the top will go next time

Richard Byrom 12/Mar/16 2nd

Managed to get within two clips from the top

jonsey1995 28/Feb/16 Lead
blaza1 28/Feb/16 Lead O/S

Amazing climb!

Hidden ??/2016 -
Alex N-R 23/Dec/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Dec/15 TR dog
poeter210 13/Dec/15 Lead dog
with Rich
JackMac 02/Oct/15 Lead rpt
with Russ
Russell Blackaller 02/Oct/15 Lead β
with JackMac
Albachoss ?/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Andrea
RFWilkie 27/Sep/15 Lead dog

Failed to read the guidebook before setting off and consequently messed up the top trying to continue straight on.

ian1234567 20/Sep/15 Lead β
Matt17 23/Aug/15 Lead

Best route I did in Portland! Fantastic climbing.

Hidden 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/15 Lead
AJ007 25/Jul/15 Lead RP
JayAsh 25/Jul/15 TR dog
with AJ
Luke Owens 23/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Best of the grade I've ever done, incredible!

Ian Bell 18/Jul/15 Lead β

4 years since the last try so will award myself retro flash! Excellent and pumpy.

with Tania T
Kris suriyo 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
tash 11/Jul/15 Lead RP

Should have onsighted this but got freaked out by the grease on the top ledges!!! Quality route.

with ali k
etrillaud 11/Jul/15 Lead dog
Sam4242 10/Jul/15 Lead dog
Gloria 05/Jul/15 Lead

First break is slippy, go for the top

BarnDawg 05/Jul/15 2nd
Hidden 05/Jul/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead rpt
Andy Smallwood 04/Jul/15 Lead β
jack adams ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Edward Kwong 27/Jun/15 Lead RP

Fun route, solid moves and holds, worthy of the stars. For the crux at the top before the traverse right, use the first slippery ledge as an intermediate, go quickly to the second higher ledge just above the bolt to clip (left hand jug).

rachelvlc 27/Jun/15 Lead
Matti Puckridge 27/Jun/15 Lead G/U

People rave about this climb. With good reason. Tricky top.

RosieYates 19/Jun/15 Lead dnf

Need to come back for this one - most fun I've had whilst failing.

with Dave M, Freddie E, Nick M
matthenj 19/Jun/15 Lead dnf

Didn't fancy the run out at the end.

with Freddie Erskine, Rosie Yates
philhaigh 17/Jun/15 2nd rpt
with Ed Babs
RichyBOYY 17/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Pumpy as f***

with Ben M
Hidden 14/Jun/15 Lead β
Hidden 13/Jun/15 Lead rpt
chrisscutt 13/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with oly
ollie_e 13/Jun/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 08/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Jack93 08/Jun/15 Lead dog
samparsons 07/Jun/15 Lead β
littleluke 07/Jun/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 05/Jun/15 Lead RP
sam_craddock ?/Jun/15 Lead RP
with Phil Belcher
Rich Kirby 28/May/15 Lead O/S
with Helen
Dandan82 25/May/15 Lead rpt
Linc 25/May/15 Lead rpt
jamesb101 23/May/15 Lead O/S
Linc 10/May/15 Lead rpt
with louis
Nick Russell 10/May/15 Lead O/S

Great route. Felt fair (though not easy) at 6b+.

Sophie Nunn 07/May/15 Lead rpt
with Ed B, Alex
Hidden 04/May/15 Lead rpt
Linc 02/May/15 Lead rpt
with louis
Hidden 19/Apr/15 TR dog
lewiz 18/Apr/15 Lead rpt


Hidden 15/Apr/15 Lead dog
rachelvlc 12/Apr/15 2nd
JackMac 05/Apr/15 Lead RP

Greasy but a good route.

Carnie Lisa ?/Apr/15 2nd rpt

Finally did it! Felt like a 6a+!

with Dan Verge
Fraser hill-casey ?/Apr/15 -
Fraser hill-casey ?/Apr/15 Lead
penny.orr ?/Apr/15 Lead
Trisha Murphy 22/Mar/15 Lead dnf
Dandan82 21/Mar/15 Lead rpt
afrosam 21/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Skorchio 21/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Great climb, committing move at the end, best hope you are not to pumped! There are some great rests where you can almost fully recover. I spent a lot of time here as i wanted the onsite!

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 15/Mar/15 Lead O/S
dominic lee 14/Mar/15 Lead
with andy elliot
bonelessivar 10/Mar/15 Lead RP

2nd try. Took a massive lob from last bolt first go. Excellent route with a big feel.

islandlynx 07/Mar/15 Lead G/U

2nd go

Matt77 07/Mar/15 Lead RP

Brilliant route.

with Tom Riddelsdell, Shane
Matthew Davies 21/Feb/15 Lead dnf

First outdoors experience, punching above my weight! Will come back and crush. Still great fun

with Alex Renón
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 15/Feb/15 Lead dog

So pumped by the top and took the wrong sequence going through the roof. Gutted. Beautiful route.

with Steph
Toby Dunn ??/2015 -
kingborris ??/2015 -
Beefy Bert ??/2015 Lead RP
KDhruev 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Katie
mr_cf 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Tony Lam, Luke Walsh
Hidden 05/Oct/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 05/Oct/14 Lead dnf
kennythescot ?/Oct/14 Lead RP
with Mark Wilson, Luke Robinson
Hidden 27/Sep/14 TR rpt
Hidden 22/Sep/14 Lead dnf
kennythescot 22/Sep/14 2nd
with Markwww
Gem Minihan 20/Sep/14 TR dog
with Vic Hau, Barry Kerslake
Hidden 13/Sep/14 -
richiebongo 25/Jul/14 Lead O/S

An unfortunate visit to the A&E when Jon smashed his hand up.

with Mat Coburn, Jon Didymus
1poundSOCKS 25/Jul/14 Lead β
Didymus 25/Jul/14 Lead dnf
with Rich
Murilo Lessa 20/Jul/14 Lead dnf
with Daniel James
TomRiddelsdell 20/Jul/14 Lead RP

Fantastic route. I was so pumped after the crux coming out of the corner that the last few moves were a bit desperate. Thank god for the ledge shortly before the chains!

PastyBoy84 12/Jul/14 TR dnf

Couldn't move off the small dishes to traverse right towards the finish.

with Si Goyder
Dervey 12/Jul/14 Lead RP
JUSTADUDE 01/Jul/14 Lead dog

Hung about below the ledge far too long and pumped out, took a fall pulling up onto the ledge. Will get it clean next time...

L.miura 29/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Peter Dickinson
Maddie 25/Jun/14 Lead dog

Really annoyed to not get this. Didn't know the top juggy ledge was good enough so fell first time. Tried twice more but too tired.

with Lola, Remi Richards, Dan S
TomJ 15/Jun/14 Lead dog
with Charlotte
clmacdonald 15/Jun/14 2nd
tskelhon 15/Jun/14 Lead rpt

Hindsight from 5 years ago - dead easy this time ;-)

lewiz 01/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Jun/14 TR
lewiz 31/May/14 Lead rpt
BenL 26/May/14 Lead O/S
with Emma
Pete Dangerous 25/May/14 Lead RP
with Marek
lewiz 25/May/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 24/May/14 Lead dog
stp 23/May/14 Lead O/S

Great climb, like others on this cliff, that has a bigger feel to it than its length would suggest.

with Alan
pawelx 17/May/14 Lead dog
Ian MK 05/May/14 Lead dog
with Anna
Anna Maykova 05/May/14 TR dnf
with Ian
martin one 05/May/14 TR dog
with Markus
Hidden 21/Apr/14 TR rpt
Hidden 21/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 12/Jan/14 TR
duncan 11/Jan/14 Lead rpt
Kerm ??/2014 Lead
LouisJones ??/2014 Lead O/S

very fun

louby 24/Nov/13 Lead RP

really good route, nice and long, thought i'd run out of steam/warmth but managed to hold on for the massive ledge.

L.miura 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Julie Carroll
Hidden 05/Oct/13 Lead dog
hankyc 05/Oct/13 Lead dog
Sophie Nunn 29/Sep/13 Lead rpt
with Phil, Martin
Luis SD 06/Sep/13 Lead O/S
chris j 05/Sep/13 Lead O/S
trev_f 03/Sep/13 Lead rpt
CurlyStevo ?/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Very good climb and not too pumpy if you utilize the rests. Best onsight and red point outside in a oner :)

with Rob
jamessiddle 31/Aug/13 Lead dog

So very close ... after a few repeats I'd worked out the sequence for the last few moves. Will go, just need to build up the stamina and remember the sequence.

khalidq 31/Aug/13 Lead dnf

Next time.

Pathological_Climber 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Graham Westbrook 28/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Nick Sherring 26/Aug/13 Lead rpt

Brilliant sustained pumpy climbing, more like being in Europe! Only downside is the one greasy ledge below the last bolt, took a juicy fall off that on first go. Clipped from the second ledge above scond time, and managed to get through the final pumpy traverse and rockover to the belay. Great route.

philhaigh 22/Aug/13 2nd rpt
with Vicki Hau, Mike Gubbins
Garrouli 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Ioanna
quiffhanger 28/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/13 Lead dog
paultaylor 12/Jul/13 Lead rpt
will moy 12/Jul/13 Lead RP
with Tom
Hidden 06/Jul/13 Lead rpt
redjerry 05/Jul/13 TR O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/13 Lead β
Dibdawg 28/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Pete Clark
Hidden 28/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Jay-Ast 19/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Rosyk
Rosyk 19/Jun/13 2nd dog
Graham Booth 14/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Amazing route, bit polished over the first overhang!

philhaigh 14/Jun/13 2nd rpt
with Ed Babs
spidermonkey09 11/Jun/13 Lead RP


ollie_e 08/Jun/13 Lead RP

2nd attempt, fell from the very top on the onsight, missed the massive jugs somehow!

Daniel Wicks 07/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Jim
Hidden 04/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead rpt
philhaigh 31/May/13 Lead O/S
with Ed Babs, Vicki Hau
tomB 27/May/13 Lead dog
with Jody
lewiz 26/May/13 Lead rpt
artmal 26/May/13 Lead RP
innes 25/May/13 Lead O/S
with Ruth
Luke Dawson 18/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/May/13 Lead O/S
maybe_si 06/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/13 Lead β
marcb 04/May/13 Lead dnf

I just couldn't commit at the roof.

with Ed Ratcliffe
adam 24 ?/May/13 Lead RP
drcorbasisgod 26/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead dnf
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Joe Innes 29/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Pumpy!! My first route at Portland

brices 29/Mar/13 Lead β
Hidden 17/Feb/13 Lead rpt
Ciro 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Pumped at the top, was touch and go to get the onsight.

with Solly
AndrewJamesCherry ??/2013 Lead
RadekNowak ??/2013 Lead β
Tommyads ??/2013 -
Jobbo 01/Dec/12 Lead O/S
with Leon. D
JackMac 27/Oct/12 Lead dnf

The climb got progressively harder and I got progressively colder in the 30 mph wind. Great route though!

Brian H 21/Oct/12 Lead rpt
with Martin Slater
Adam Booth 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Absolutely brilliant. Continuously cool and steady climbing. A decent 30m sport route in the UK?? Who'd have thought it!

Saurus ?/Oct/12 Lead RP
Hidden 29/Sep/12 Lead RP
Hidden 29/Sep/12 Lead rpt
tomB 16/Sep/12 Lead dog
with Juliette
alexspurling 16/Sep/12 Lead dog
Vince 09/Sep/12 Lead RP
with jon
jonleighton 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
James Oswald 03/Sep/12 Lead O/S

One of the best 6b+s I've done. Aceness

with Jake shaw, Liam, Mark Rankine
Luxulyan ?/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Tom Murrell
Jake Young 26/Aug/12 Lead rpt
James Oswald 26/Aug/12 2nd
mark20 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
GPN 22/Aug/12 Lead
with Annette
climbhannahclimb 20/Aug/12 TR
with Iain Adams
Dan_Carroll 20/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/12 Lead rpt
CRiddiford 27/Jul/12 Lead dnf
with Becca
BeccaSnowden 27/Jul/12 Lead RP

Really good but hard crux. 6c? Was very hot..

Hidden 27/Jul/12 Lead RP
Evie 26/Jul/12 Lead β
with Jack
Hidden 22/Jul/12 TR dog
kateg2009 22/Jul/12 Lead dog

Found the move onto the ledge hard, then easy climbing to the crux. Crux is okay when you know how! Run out at the end going off to the right to join shared loweroffs (but good jugs to be found along the break).

with Dave Robinson
Jay81 15/Jul/12 Lead RP
with Tomar
Matt77 01/Jul/12 Lead dog
Hidden 01/Jul/12 Lead dog
Justin T 01/Jul/12 Lead β

Hard at the top!

Hidden 30/Jun/12 Lead O/S
dan gibson 28/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with julie carroll
Julie Carroll 28/Jun/12 Lead RP
with Dan Gibson
paultaylor 24/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Grant
nataliehaigh 20/Jun/12 2nd dnf
with Steve Hau, Mike Hawkins
Dandan82 17/Jun/12 Lead rpt
Linc 17/Jun/12 Lead rpt
lewiz 26/May/12 Lead rpt

Easy 6c

Hidden 24/May/12 Lead rpt
yarrow 20/May/12 Lead dog

Shame to have rested but great route.

with Mark C
tedj234 20/May/12 Lead O/S
with Kate
pelvoux 19/May/12 TR O/S

Lead it up to the crux, went down and tried it later on top rope. Know the top move now, will lead it all the way next time

with Mumtaz
Alex More 17/May/12 Lead
with Ed babs
Owen W-G 12/May/12 Lead dnf
with Roger
Danny Crump 12/May/12 Lead
Marti999 08/May/12 Lead rpt
cameronmcloughlin 06/May/12 Lead dog

Andy Long pointed out the move to the right near the top

waynem1985 06/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/12 Lead O/S
Marti999 06/Apr/12 Lead rpt
samfayers 01/Apr/12 TR dog
with sars
Macca_7 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Excellent climbing on a good line. Nice holds on the lower wall lead to the fabulous crack and the crux getting established on the break above. Pumpy moves right lead to the chains. Good route!

Michael Aylen 01/Apr/12 2nd
with Macca
elCapitano 01/Apr/12 Lead dog
with Dave
Hidden ?/Apr/12 Lead RP
Hidden 10/Mar/12 Lead O/S
lewiz 10/Mar/12 Lead dog
with Vlad Vishnyakov, Owen John
Hidden 26/Feb/12 Lead rpt
rustaldo 29/Jan/12 Lead RP

Clean today.

Hinchrn 29/Jan/12 TR dog
rustaldo 15/Jan/12 Lead dog

Had one rest below the top. Awesome, awesome route! The rock changes as you move higher, some of it is quite sandy. The top feels quite exposed as you move right and that you're going to fall miles!

with Alex
phillipwright ??/2012 Lead O/S
with James Kingswood
matt perks ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Dandan82 19/Nov/11 Lead rpt
Ducks Rock 19/Nov/11 TR dnf
with Dan
burto 23/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with steve, hertha
john rensten 23/Oct/11 Lead RP
Sophie Nunn 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Toby
Brian H 09/Oct/11 Lead rpt
catt 01/Oct/11 Lead dog

Fell pumped silly from the slopey break at the top.

with Hazel
Hidden 01/Oct/11 Lead dog
Hidden 25/Sep/11 Lead dog
keithpeck 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S
BicepAndrews 25/Sep/11 Lead RP
Dandan82 24/Sep/11 Lead rpt
Linc 24/Sep/11 Lead rpt
UnkArl 24/Sep/11 Lead dog

Absolutely superb route! Another party had left quickdraws in and kindly let me use them (thanks again!). Clipped the last bolt but went too far right to the ledge and missed the good holds, head and arms gave out by the time I moved back across (didn't fancy going for it and taking the big pendulum swing). Quick shake and then finished it off. SO close to the onsight...

Hidden 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Carnie Lisa 03/Sep/11 2nd dog

nearly there!

with Dan Verge
Hidden 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Takacs 03/Sep/11 TR dnf

DOne with clips taken out as we didn't want to lose them and I was the last to climb. Clean up to the sort of gully but came off twice, decided it wasn't worth swinging off and having to come back on so decided to leave for another time. Very cool up to there though

with Jack Brougham
Hidden 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Linc 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Joe Black 24/Aug/11 Lead β

Flash at the end of a hard day serious pump but plenty of rests saw me though. Great climbing with a hard upper section but easy bottom.

Daniel Wicks 24/Aug/11 Lead rpt
with Radek
Ian Bell 21/Aug/11 Lead dnf

As completion of warm up pre failing on Pump Hitler.

with Jasmina
Brian H 14/Aug/11 Lead rpt
La Mont 13/Aug/11 -
wi11 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Nat
Kopinski 03/Aug/11 Lead dog
John Tanner 02/Aug/11 Lead dog
with Dougie Swanson-Low
Hidden ?/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 30/Jul/11 Lead rpt
gibsond 23/Jul/11 Lead RP

Felt fairly comfortable this time.

brian watson 09/Jul/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/Jul/11 Lead RP
gibsond 09/Jul/11 Lead dog

Two more attempts. I'm sure I've got the sequence now, but was too tired to try again today.

dale1968 09/Jul/11 2nd dnf
with Tom
Hidden 09/Jul/11 Lead dnf
BicepAndrews 03/Jul/11 Lead dog
duncan 02/Jul/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 30/Jun/11 Lead rpt
Jonathan Emett 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with darryl, bern
gibsond 30/Jun/11 Lead dog

Have got the crux move worked out so should get RP next time. Can't want - great route.

Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 11/Jun/11 Lead
Kevster 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Repeat ascent?

brian watson 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with neil weymouth
Paul Eckton 11/Jun/11 Lead RP
lewiz 04/Jun/11 Lead dog

Incredible! Felt strong but arms gave way 4/5 up and really struggled with the roof. Couldn't climb again for the rest of the day.

Hidden 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
PeterDawson 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
tuftynick 29/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/May/11 Lead
james.pilbeam 29/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/May/11 Lead dog
Mr Sparkle 21/May/11 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 21/May/11 Lead O/S
with Sarah Marks, Matt Sparkes
JPGR 02/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead O/S
xiangoh ?/May/11 Lead
HBredin 23/Apr/11 TR
with Leo Ferrer
JasTaplin 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Martin Cleaver 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
J.Wells 17/Apr/11 Lead β
MarkRyder 16/Apr/11 Lead RP
with Ivan M
IanMulvany 16/Apr/11 Lead dog

popped off just before the chains, should have tied it earlier in the day.

Bristoldave 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with LukeW
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
London Luke ?/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead dog
robajob 26/Mar/11 Lead RP
Hidden 17/Mar/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 08/Mar/11 Lead dog
mike lawrence? 08/Mar/11 Lead
with James the Navigator, Colin
adam cooper*super* 22/Jan/11 Lead O/S

sweet route, was freezing all the way up it, got a cheeky knee bar in there too!

Hidden 20/Nov/10 Lead O/S
pezzerrr ?/Nov/10 Lead O/S
clipskipper 16/Oct/10 Lead dog

Pump at the finish beat me - take more rests next time

with Dave (Robins?)
sonic46 16/Oct/10 TR dog
with Dave and Lee
Hidden 10/Oct/10 Lead RP
Claire S-J 16/Sep/10 2nd dog

was exhausted! will have to come back for it

Hidden 15/Sep/10 Lead RP
Tom Heslam ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Rosea
jacobjacob 18/Aug/10 Lead O/S
MH123 12/Aug/10 2nd dog
with Sam Farnsworth
Sami Mandeel 08/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Frederic
Duncan Campbell 08/Aug/10 Lead β

Onsight apart from the fact the draws were in...a tricky bitt the top and bottom but basically really steady. a perfect end to the best day of sport climbing ive ever had! pumpy is not my style and i feel i could have eaily put he draws in and still cruised it....thanks for a awesome day mikey, mason, laura, eugene etc!

with Mikey G
DorsetGareth 07/Aug/10 Lead dog

Had to sit on the rope a few times to get through the top couple of clips.

with Elaine Hunt
barfani chita 17/Jul/10 TR dnf
with Saurus
Saurus 17/Jul/10 TR dnf
jan.prostrednik 03/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with Runkasova Jana
ThomasB ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Barry Kerslake 18/Jun/10 Lead RP
with Steve H
Hidden 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Daniel Wicks 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Ian Broome 02/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Matt
will9911 ?/Jun/10 -
with Harriet
jan.prostrednik 31/May/10 Lead dog
with Lukas Marcin
Hidden 15/May/10 Lead RP
jan.prostrednik 15/May/10 Lead dog
with Runkasova Jana
Hidden 01/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/10 Lead dnf
Billg 05/Apr/10 Lead rpt
London Luke ?/Apr/10 Lead
Hidden ?/Apr/10 Lead
Hidden 27/Mar/10 Lead dog
Hidden 27/Mar/10 Lead RP
La benya ??/2010 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
candicegallab ??/2010 2nd dog
Jane Weir ??/2010 -
Mowglee 08/Oct/09 Lead RP

Felt piss this time, wonder why I fell off before...?

with Jonathan Emett
dswansonlow 04/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Ben Harper, Gideon Mordecai
Hidden 04/Oct/09 Lead RP
steve_biczyk 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Huw, Marc, Emma Curry
Lallylandslider 14/Sep/09 2nd dnf
with steve davies
michael burrows 14/Sep/09 TR dnf
with steve davies
eddie coughlin 12/Sep/09 Lead dnf
with pete skinsley
chris sm 02/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
Hidden 26/Jul/09 Lead rpt
Mike_Hayes 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Ceridwen 12/Jul/09 Lead dog

Fell off at the last bolt before the lower, found myself on a really slimy hold, Every time I took one hand off the other started sliding until 5 took a whipper!

with Heather
Morgan Woods 05/Jul/09 Lead rpt

Feels tough as a warmup.

with Vinnie
breed 04/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Dave Giles
Hidden 25/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/09 TR dnf
Hidden 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Glyn 06/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/09 Lead O/S
SiW ?/Jun/09 Lead
JimR 24/May/09 -
Chubbard 24/May/09 Lead O/S

v good

with Jim & Mark
sparkass 03/May/09 Lead O/S
with Emerson Clark
Hidden 14/Apr/09 Lead O/S
sam_cox 12/Apr/09 Lead β
Jon_Warner 02/Apr/09 Lead O/S

No hard moves. Sustained

with Mark Glaister
Ed Babs 07/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Trevor
trev_f 07/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Ed
Hidden ?/Mar/09 2nd dog
Dandan82 ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Chris
Mowglee 28/Feb/09 Lead dog
with Rich
tobydunford 20/Feb/09 Lead rpt
with Angus
tobydunford 18/Feb/09 Lead dog
with Angus
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Alex More ??/2009 Lead β
Matt Shepherd 16/Oct/08 Lead O/S
FrostyWebb 11/Oct/08 Lead dog

Happy i acheived this as last time i attempted this route i dnf, very intricate last section leading to a easy lower-off! Pumpy and Sustained 6B+

with Mark
andybirtwistle 28/Sep/08 Lead
with Andy Grondowski
Hidden 21/Sep/08 Lead O/S
FrostyWebb 02/Sep/08 Lead dnf
with Hannes
Hidden 26/Aug/08 Lead dog
Hidden 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
richardr ?/Aug/08 Lead dnf

Stamina problems. Good long fall though!

Hidden 29/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Morgan Woods 29/Jun/08 Lead RP

Brilliant route which i got to do an extra lap on to get the draws out.....much easier than my first attempt a few yrs ago.....tricky(ish) crux helped by a left sidepull to gain the roof. def not worth 6c.

with Vinnie
ksjs 23/Jun/08 Lead O/S

not so straightforward at the grade, good, varied climbing

Mark Stevenson 16/Jun/08 Lead rpt
with Lucy Creamer
dmoir 05/Jun/08 Lead O/S
dominic lee ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with andy elliot
Matt Bennett 05/May/08 Lead O/S
garburn 26/Apr/08 Lead dog

Got too pumped 1 bolt from the top blowing the onsight - gotta sort out that stamina!

dannyboy83 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Nils
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2008 TR dog
nawface ??/2008 Lead
robyn1 ??/2008 -
rubben 21/Oct/07 Lead dog

Great climb!!! Did it before capable of doing so...really good though!

Hidden 04/Aug/07 Lead dog
hippo99 24/Jul/07 Lead O/S


Oliver Sherman 21/Jul/07 Lead dog

Had some trouble getting to (and past) the penultimate clip. Think I didn't get the holds right. Hmm... Have to go back.

Hidden 21/Jul/07 TR dog
Hidden 19/May/07 Lead β
tumbling wizard ?/May/07 Lead
Richard Horn 15/Apr/07 Lead O/S
JPGR 15/Apr/07 Lead dog
with Daniel
dan gibson 15/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with jon redshaw
Hidden 11/Mar/07 Lead β
Hidden ??/2007 -
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
hippo99 ??/2007 -
guyblackwood 05/Aug/06 Lead O/S

Ha! At last! Great climb.

with David
Rob Grant 23/Jul/06 -
Alex Mason 18/Jul/06 Lead O/S

just scraped the onsight here was total pumped through crux trying to get an arm bar rest just after crux. good effort.

with pat mcbride
givemetea 05/Jun/06 2nd dog
with Ann Chong
bigie bob 14/May/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/06 Lead
Jon Greengrass ??/2006 Lead O/S
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Nathan Kemp ?/Oct/05 Lead O/S
with Joel Charly
Morgan Woods ?/Jun/05 Lead dog
with Vinnie
Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead dog
goi.ashmore 30/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with Ben Merryfield
Hidden ?/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead O/S
Mark Stevenson 23/Mar/03 Lead rpt
with Geraldine Taylor
_m.cox_ ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Adam Mulholland
Hidden 08/Dec/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/02 Lead
shoulders 05/Jun/02 Lead
with tanya, dai
Mark Stevenson 08/May/02 Lead O/S
with Mike Smith
Hidden ??/2002 -
Rob Kinsey ??/2002 -
with JamesR, joe lenham
AlexD 08/Jul/01 Lead O/S
with Mark
John Southworth 01/Jul/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/01 Lead RP
Paul Clarke ??/2000 Lead
with Unsure
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden 27/Mar/99 Lead
Martin Dale ??/1999 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/98 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Mar/98 Lead O/S
Ben Thorne ??/1998 Lead RP

Slightly sandy/cruxy right in the middle.

with John Pullin
DavidBarraclough ??/1998 Lead O/S
duncan 12/Jul/97 Lead O/S
buzby78 18/May/96 Lead RP
AndySL ??/1996 Lead O/S
with Mark, Tim
Hidden ??/1996 -
Mike Owen 28/May/95 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 15/Apr/95 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/95 Lead
Hidden 15/Apr/95 Lead
Mark Kemball 12/Mar/95 Lead dog

1 rest

ukb & bmc shark ??/1995 Lead O/S
with John Codling
Roget 31/Mar/94 Lead O/S
with jon
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High 6c
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High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
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Low 6b
Votes cast 114
Votes cast 140
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
Ground Up
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