Rockfax Description
A well-positioned route. Climb easily to the mid-height ledge, as for Shape Shifter. Ascend the groove above to a steep finish. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 16/Apr/1993

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Classic Portland 7as (2* +), South coast sport/DWS ticklist, Jurassic 7a, Portland.

dbrooks 05/Nov/17 Lead RP

1st RP, 3* route in my book

with Chris S
Brian H 31/Oct/17 Lead rpt
with Martin Slater
Hidden 28/Oct/17 TR dog
GraMc 15/Oct/17 Lead RP

2nd go

with team brizzle
aiyer 15/Oct/17 Lead RP

Hardest 7a ever?

with Charlie
Rocky 15/Oct/17 TR dog

Should have just led it. Only one rest to work out the crux sequence. Brilliant route! Planned to have a redpoint go but the route got stripped and I couldn't face leading whilst putting the draws back in ... I wasn't THAT confident of success!! :-) Pleased at how quickly I worked it out. Really want to spend some time at Portland. If only it wasn't for the long drive.

with Llin
Hidden 14/Oct/17 Lead dog
emmafizzle 05/Oct/17 Lead RP
Kayface42 23/Sep/17 Lead dog
with Si
emmafizzle 23/Sep/17 Lead dnf

Nearly a flash! Too pumped to finish. Next time...

Rockmonkey1977 16/Sep/17 Lead O/S

Placing QD's as I went. Nice to onsight it given I fell off the 6a warm up! Felt a bit soft to me but I guess that's what 2 weeks climbing in Flatanger does...

chancer 28/Aug/17 Lead dnf
with Ed Wigmore
Bettymolly 19/Aug/17 Lead RP

Sent it 2nd shot!

JPGR 17/Aug/17 Lead O/S
JKinsella 06/Aug/17 Lead RP

2nd go. Blew the on sight missing a crutial right side pull. Very nice route.

with Shane
ian bryant 05/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Jessie Tucker ?/Aug/17 Lead O/S
afrosam 16/Jul/17 Lead rpt
with Rowan, simonpearson
julesmckim 16/Jul/17 Lead dog

Argh! Blew the onsight. Slimy holds in top groove and missed a little crimp

with Antonina Lach
Dale Comley 18/Jun/17 Lead O/S

All in the feet

leglesslizard 17/Jun/17 Lead RP
Hidden 11/Jun/17 Lead O/S
Charlie Low 04/Jun/17 Lead dog

Another one to come back for! About 6a up to the halfway ledge, then a nice hands off rest before a super sequency crux through the groove up to a pretty pumpy finished! Managed it clean on toprope but my head wasn't in it today :(

artmal 25/Mar/17 Lead O/S
with Marzena
pymn nice but dim ??/2017 Lead O/S
Ellis Bird ??/2017 -
Ellis Bird ??/2017 Lead
FelixPeterken 27/Oct/16 Lead dog

It's only a snatchy boulder problem 2/3 height, rest is 6b. Annoyed I missed the slot

katiep 02/Oct/16 Lead RP

Scuppered myself the first time with a stupid high left foot. Figured out how to bridge second time round

with Connor, Tina Parsonage, Amy Horton
EmilyElouise 24/Sep/16 Lead RP

1st attempt of the day, remembered all the moves!

with SJ
littleluke 11/Sep/16 Lead O/S
rachelvlc 11/Sep/16 2nd

TRASH (top rope flash)

Hidden 11/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/16 Lead dog
Hidden 29/Aug/16 Lead RP
brian watson 17/Aug/16 Lead RP
with Dan, John
BenL 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S
chris_woodsy 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S

proper o/s. got quite pumped.

with Widdaz
hervenuttall ?/Aug/16 Lead O/S

found it hard

with Doug
Ian Bell 30/Jul/16 Lead RP

2nd go, very hot! Nice but quite cruxy

bede.west 25/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Chuffed to on-sight this. First proper O/S of the grade

Hidden 08/Jun/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 06/Jun/16 Lead RP
Jack93 06/Jun/16 Lead RP
EmilyElouise 29/May/16 Lead dog
with ruth, Vicky and Helen
Hidden 29/May/16 Lead dnf
lewiz 29/May/16 Lead rpt
with Yan Mao
samparsons 22/May/16 Lead β
afterthesend 22/May/16 Lead RP

Second go

Gloria 08/May/16 Lead

Distinct 3 parter: endurance, technical crack and then burl - tried it as the rain was coming in on top rope previously and delighted to have put the draws up yesterday morning.

with Eric Pieuchot
Hidden 30/Apr/16 Lead dnf
Hidden 30/Apr/16 2nd dog
Hidden 16/Apr/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 16/Apr/16 Lead β
Hidden 25/Feb/16 2nd dog
JackMac 02/Oct/15 Lead RP

2nd go.

with Russ
Russell Blackaller 02/Oct/15 Lead β
with JackMac
Albachoss ?/Oct/15 Lead RP
with Andrea
RFWilkie 27/Sep/15 Lead dog

Also a clean top rope.

aiyer 27/Sep/15 TR dog

Potential project with Buoys will be Buoys?! One tricky move at crux 2/3 of the way up and to overhanging finish. Bottom half is 6bish...

Hidden 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jul/15 Lead dog
Hidden 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
etrillaud 11/Jul/15 Lead dog

fell at the crux but managed to do the moved. around 6b/+ until the crux and 6b/+ after.

Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead RP
JCAshman ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Billg 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S

very short lived technical groove off a ledge. 6C+?

with Nik Goile
spidermonkey09 05/Jun/15 Lead RP

Putting the clips in after dogging it last year- not sure what to call it! Bit unbalanced but it keeps going all the way to the top.

Rich Kirby 28/May/15 Lead O/S
with Helen
afrosam 23/May/15 Lead O/S
Linc 02/May/15 Lead rpt
with louis
Hidden 01/May/15 Lead dog
Hidden 01/May/15 Lead dog
Hidden 21/Apr/15 Lead dog
lewiz 18/Apr/15 Lead rpt

Not soft

Hidden 15/Apr/15 Lead dog
Hidden 10/Apr/15 Lead dnf
Trisha Murphy 22/Mar/15 Lead RP
TomJ 21/Mar/15 Lead dog
with Trisha
Hidden 27/Feb/15 Lead dog
Hidden 27/Feb/15 TR dog
Toby Dunn ??/2015 -
Beefy Bert ??/2015 Lead β
Gem Minihan 29/Aug/14 TR dog
martin one 06/Jul/14 TR dnf

up to the crux

with Markus
spidermonkey09 06/Jun/14 Lead dog

Next time, stuffed the midheight crux sequence.

Hidden 24/May/14 TR dnf
Hidden 24/May/14 TR dnf
Julie Carroll 11/Mar/14 Lead RP
with Robbie Canavan
jsaric 08/Mar/14 -
LouisJones ??/2014 Lead RP

da shit

L.miura 06/Oct/13 Lead dnf

Unfortunately injured, couldn't finish...

with Julie Carroll
Hidden 21/Sep/13 TR rpt
Luis SD 06/Sep/13 Lead RP
Linc 29/Aug/13 Lead RP
trev_f 26/Aug/13 TR rpt
nataliehaigh 26/Aug/13 2nd dog
philhaigh 26/Aug/13 Lead rpt
with Mat Affourtit, Trev Ford, Ed Babs, Mike Gubbins, Mel Dodge, Natalie Haigh
philhaigh 24/Aug/13 2nd rpt
with Trev Ford, Mike Gubbins
Garrouli 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Ioanna
Hidden 03/Aug/13 Lead RP
EmilyElouise 03/Aug/13 2nd dog
RdC 22/Jul/13 Lead RP
with Mikey
pezzerrr 19/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jul/13 Lead dog
redjerry 05/Jul/13 TR O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 30/Jun/13 Lead β
david potts 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Nat
Dibdawg 28/Jun/13 Lead dog
with Pete Clark
Jay-Ast 19/Jun/13 Lead RP
with Rosyk
anthony henry 08/Jun/13 Lead RP
Hidden 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
philhaigh 31/May/13 Lead RP
with Ed Babs, Vicki Hau
innes 25/May/13 Lead
with Ruth
Luke Dawson 18/May/13 Lead O/S
PeterDawson 18/May/13 Lead β
Justin T 18/May/13 Lead O/S

At least I think this was onsight, all Portland routes feel somewhat familiar though.

with Nick S
AlexD 16/May/13 Lead RP
with Ed
Hidden 13/May/13 Lead O/S
drcorbasisgod 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Alex More 25/Apr/13 Lead dog

Injured :( shame as felt easy for grade

with Ed babs
brices 21/Apr/13 Lead rpt
with Lisa, Gav
Joe Innes 29/Mar/13 Lead O/S

First 7a onsight!! Had to properly fight for this one :)

brices 29/Mar/13 Lead β
Tommyads ??/2013 -
Max Lowry ??/2013 Lead O/S
Brian H 21/Oct/12 Lead dog

Got wrong handed and pumped and ended up having a couple of rests - disappointing as onsighted this when first did it.

with Martin Slater
Viki Claudia Harvey 21/Oct/12 Lead
with Rachel Keys
Hidden ?/Oct/12 Lead RP
jonleighton 29/Sep/12 Lead RP

Redpoint on 2nd attempt. Didn't feel that hard, just a few technical moves and it's done.

Haydn Jones 09/Sep/12 Lead β
with pep
philhaigh 02/Sep/12 2nd dog
Luxulyan ?/Sep/12 Lead dog


with Tom Murrell
tobydunford 28/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
Hidden 22/Aug/12 Lead RP
Ramon Marin 19/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Dan_Carroll 19/Aug/12 Lead dog

fell off last move, somehow

dan gibson 28/Jun/12 Lead β
with julie carroll
lewiz 26/May/12 Lead rpt

Straightforward this time

with Vlad Vishnyakov, Owen John
Jeronimo 25/May/12 Lead O/S
tedj234 20/May/12 Lead O/S
with Kate
Hidden 19/May/12 Lead O/S
vickydavies ?/May/12 Lead RP
with Alex Harper
Tom Heslam 26/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Ed Heslam
lewiz 10/Mar/12 Lead dog
with Vlad Vishnyakov, Owen John
rustaldo 29/Jan/12 TR dog

TR after leading another route that shared the loweroff. Felt good - definitley go for the lead next time out.

phillipwright ??/2012 Lead dog
with James Kingswood
Ceridwen 06/Nov/11 TR dog
AlexD 06/Nov/11 Lead dog
with Ceri
burto 23/Oct/11 Lead dog
with steve, hertha
Sophie Nunn 15/Oct/11 Lead dog
with Toby
Toby Dunn 15/Oct/11 Lead
with Sophie Nunn
dan gibson 14/Oct/11 Lead rpt
with julie carroll
Dandan82 01/Oct/11 Lead RP
Sami Mandeel 25/Sep/11 Lead RP

Could've been my First 7a onsight if I'dve gone right at the crux - doh! Got it 2nd try thought. Crux felt pretty straightforward to me.

with Rob
wi11 06/Aug/11 Lead dog

1rest at crux

with Nat
mlg678 31/Jul/11 Lead RP
Ian Bell ?/Jul/11 Lead dog

Good fun, new one for the project list.

Hidden 24/Jun/11 Lead dnf
Misha 15/May/11 Lead O/S

Had watched Phil try is so knew where the crux was but not really beta as my memory for someone else's moves is pretty poor! The crux is pretty stiff but over fairly quickly. Just a matter of holding it together after that - probably only about 6b+ or 6c after the crux. Fortunately was able to find lots of rests. First ever 7a onsight.

with Phil
philhilo 15/May/11 Lead dog

Thought I might get the redpoint, very close second time but ran out of gas above the crux and took a 10m flyer past the ledge!

with misha
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead dnf
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead rpt
Kevster 13/Mar/11 Lead RP

2nd go, "not hidden, but not obvious" hold hiatus

clipskipper 16/Oct/10 Lead dog

Tough in the mid-section, with one very hard move. Either that or there's a hold somewhere . . .

with Dave (Robins?)
richsmithinbristol 12/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Climbed by mistake thinking it was the 6b+ on the left!

Alex Mason 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Nice end of the day route. About 6b+ except for the 5m of climbing above the ledge, but all enjoyable. Sandy on the ledge.

with Laura Perry, Duncan Campbell, Mikey G
willbatho 01/Aug/10 Lead dog

fell at side pull below roof

London Luke 11/Jul/10 Lead dnf

failed at the top crux, nice climbing up to there thou.

with Si
ThomasB ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/May/10 Lead O/S
Jane Weir ??/2010 -
ian1234567 ??/2010 Lead RP
La benya ??/2010 Lead dog

fell at the crux, few minutes to figure out then did the rest. top felt scary, and i wouldnt like to fall at some points, onto the ledge

Hidden ??/2010 Lead RP
Hidden 04/Oct/09 Lead RP
Vince 31/Aug/09 TR dog
with John Percy
Morgan Woods 05/Jul/09 Lead RP

Should have o/s'd but got in the wrong possie....not too much bridging involved.

with John P
Hidden 25/Jun/09 Lead RP
Hidden 24/Jun/09 Lead β
derico 24/Jun/09 Lead

Tried a week ago and fell of on the onsight at crux lowered off then nailed first go today, crux sequence about 5m long with easy climbing either side. Fun route

with Oli
Ed Babs 13/Jun/09 Lead RP
Hidden 12/Jun/09 Lead RP
Glyn 06/Jun/09 Lead O/S
JimR 24/May/09 -
Chubbard 24/May/09 Lead dog
with Jim & Mark
eddieclimb 23/May/09 Lead O/S

Glad to onsight, pumpy little devil...

with Rebecca Edwards
Hidden 01/May/09 2nd β
trev_f 20/Mar/09 Lead RP
EmmanuelF 28/Feb/09 2nd

not clean

Rob Grant 31/Jan/09 -
with rob davies
schof 14/Jan/09 Lead RP
with andy lamont
hippo99 ??/2009 Lead β
with andy em zoe
nealh ??/2009 Lead
ksjs 23/Jun/08 Lead dog

crux slightly blind and quite easy to go wrong on. bit of a one move wonder but still enjoyable

Martin Krasnansky 14/Apr/08 Lead O/S
La Mont ??/2008 -
Docent 02/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with pudel
Richard Horn 15/Apr/07 Lead RP
feeko ?/Feb/07 -
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden 14/Oct/06 TR β
bigie bob 08/Oct/06 Lead RP
Hidden 28/Jun/06 Lead RP
steve taylor 28/Jun/06 Lead rpt
with Gav Symonds
dannyboy83 ?/May/06 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Hidden 18/May/05 Lead O/S
feilx ??/2005 Lead O/S

first 7a OS

goi.ashmore 30/Apr/04 Lead RP
with Ben Merryfield
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead O/S
Mark Stevenson 23/Mar/03 2nd dog
with Geraldine Taylor
Hidden ??/2002 -
John Southworth 01/Jul/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden 16/Apr/95 Lead O/S
26 users have this on their wishlist
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 62
Votes cast 54
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set