Rockfax Description
The routes's difficulties are split by the left-leaning, open corner in the middle of the bulging section of the upper wall. Start below the blank wall directly below the corner. Climb the fingery wall and flake to below the midway corner. Inch up to easier ground in the corner and climb this to more tricky climbing at its end, where the overhang and headwall provide a spectacular finale. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 5.7.89 05/Jul/1989

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland.

ThomasB 02/Jul/17 Lead O/S
JackMac 13/Mar/17 Lead RP

First go today. Apart from the seepage the conditions were very good. Also feel stronger/fitter than last year - perhaps training has worked!

Hayley loves climbing 13/Mar/17 2nd dog
with JackMac
gem_stone12 14/Sep/16 TR
nimajneb 14/Sep/16 Lead O/S
JackMac 14/Aug/16 Lead dog

In two cleans parts after fluffing a hand swap. I really do suck at redpointing... Started the route to the right of the first bold this time which felt easier. On the crux, used the left hand crimp, right foot hold and high right hand finger pocket.

with Hayley, lawsy_boy1
JackMac 07/Aug/16 Lead dog

Pleased with my onsight attempt - managed to boulder through the first section but slipped off very greasy holds after the routes trends left. Also couldn't physically get past the side pull flake near to top due to grease. In the afternoon, conditions improved drastically but I couldn't repeat the start! Great route.

with Tomar
Hidden 23/Jul/16 Lead RP
Hidden ?/May/16 -
Ally Smith 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Elbows out crimping at the start and super fun laybacking on the headwall

Hidden 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S
NewHam ?/Aug/14 Lead RP
Ian Bell 30/Jun/13 TR dog

2 goes on TR, bloody hard!

John Mcshea 23/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 28/May/12 Lead RP

2nd go. Really good. Moving left and up into the corner was the crux for me.

with AlexD
dan gibson 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with anna barnes
dannyboy83 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Ivan
philhilo 14/May/11 TR dog

Soooo hard. Never been on a 7b. Every style of climbing so excellent route, 3* for sure. Dogged to death!

with Misha
Misha 14/May/11 Lead dog

Took a while to figure out the moves on the first go. Almost got it on the second go but blew it on the moves to get established in the crux due to using an incorrect sequence. Used Phil's sequence after that (press out with the right hand and use a pocket) and it worked fine. Simply didn't have enough steam left on the third go. Great route with varied moves. Getting to the second clip is the hardest bit!

Hidden 25/Sep/10 Lead β
marcpontin ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with huw
Marti999 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard 11/May/09 -
with Andy Schofield
Martin Krasnansky 27/Apr/09 Lead O/S
angusaussie ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Martin Krasnansky
La Mont ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 Lead dog
feilx 14/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2004 -
Hidden ??/2001 -
Steve Crowe 15/Mar/98 Lead O/S
with karin
Hidden ??/1996 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 02/Jun/95 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
17 users have this on their wishlist
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 12
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set