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28m. Feedback
Rockfax Description
Another Portland classic, with continuously interesting and varied moves on superb rock. Start at a vertical wall directly below a clean-cut corner in the upper wall. A hard move to a good hold gains easier ground that leads to the midway horizontal break. Pull up leftwards into the base of the square-cut corner. Climb the corner steeply to a difficult exit out right and up to gain the finishing headwall. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Oxley 29/Apr/1989
Ticklists
West Country Climbs, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, South coast sport/DWS ticklist, Portland, Spanish crew 2018
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Logged Ascents
| User | Date | Style | Notes & Partners
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|---|---|---|---|
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| Dan_Carroll | 17 Mar | Lead dog |
with KristianBodnar |
with KristianBodnar |
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| Hidden | 17 Mar | Lead RP | |
| Hidden | ?? | - | |
| Cass31 | 7 Sep, 2019 | Lead RP |
Shit route with J1_TOV |
| Shit route with J1_TOV |
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| J1_TOV | 5 Sep, 2019 | Lead β | 2nd draw pre clipped. Turned out that the hard start isn't so hard in good conditions. |
| 2nd draw pre clipped. Turned out that the hard start isn't so hard in good conditions. | |||
| rachelvlc | 24 Aug, 2019 | Lead |
Finally! with littleluke |
| Finally! with littleluke |
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| GerryWall | 19 Aug, 2019 | Lead dog |
Shocked by disappointing early moves, but this leads in to some fantastic climbing all the way to the top! All the moves done but a lot to remember. with Darren Northway |
| Shocked by disappointing early moves, but this leads in to some fantastic climbing all the way to the top! All the moves done but a lot to remember. with Darren Northway |
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| HannahT | 3 Aug, 2019 | Lead RP |
with MGRT |
with MGRT |
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| JCAshman | 29 Jul, 2019 | Lead O/S | Good route with a bit of everything, slightly ruined by the sit down rest half way up. Nice to be back outside after more than 2 months off! |
| Good route with a bit of everything, slightly ruined by the sit down rest half way up. Nice to be back outside after more than 2 months off! | |||
| Harrietbarford | 28 Jul, 2019 | Lead RP |
with johnhan310 |
with johnhan310 |
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| igola | 28 Jul, 2019 | Lead dog | Great route! Super hard start with very damp holds. Went bolt to bolt after taking early fall, would love top work this and get it next few goes. |
| Great route! Super hard start with very damp holds. Went bolt to bolt after taking early fall, would love top work this and get it next few goes. | |||
| Hidden | 20 Jul, 2019 | Lead dog | |
| adamsriches | 14 Jul, 2019 | Lead G/U |
Really great route bit of everything. with dryvita |
| Really great route bit of everything. with dryvita |
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| Hidden | 7 Jul, 2019 | Lead dnf | |
| Honey badger 93 | 7 Jul, 2019 | Lead RP |
with Rob Gibson |
with Rob Gibson |
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| adamsriches | 6 Jul, 2019 | Lead dnf |
Got the first few moves but way too hot to trust the holds for the second clip. with RoseDafoe |
| Got the first few moves but way too hot to trust the holds for the second clip. with RoseDafoe |
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| Mike_Hayes | 1 Jul, 2019 | Lead G/U |
Start greasy second go once sun came rounds with John Nightingale |
| Start greasy second go once sun came rounds with John Nightingale |
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| johnhan310 | 1 Jun, 2019 | Lead RP |
So happy I got this! Top class route and happy I put it to bed after getting so close earlier in may. with Joe, harriet |
| So happy I got this! Top class route and happy I put it to bed after getting so close earlier in may. with Joe, harriet |
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| Hidden | 25 May, 2019 | Lead RP | |
| samparsons | 25 May, 2019 | Lead β | |
| Matt Clifton | 5 May, 2019 | Lead dog |
with Helen |
with Helen |
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| Bethan May Davies | 4 May, 2019 | Lead |
Amazing route. the top 2 thirds climbs amazing, the juggy layback corner and then heaving up through the roof. Wow! Shame about the start is just a bit crimpy and unpleasant. with john lynch |
| Amazing route. the top 2 thirds climbs amazing, the juggy layback corner and then heaving up through the roof. Wow! Shame about the start is just a bit crimpy and unpleasant. with john lynch |
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| john lynch | 4 May, 2019 | Lead O/S |
with Bethan May Davies |
with Bethan May Davies |
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| TomRiddelsdell | 6 Apr, 2019 | Lead dog |
with islandlynx |
with islandlynx |
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| islandlynx | 6 Apr, 2019 | Lead RP |
3rd RP. A brilliant route with varied technical climbing. Found the bottom section tough and couldn't manage with the morning grease. Sustained but never too pumpy. Thanks to Tom for team beta and psyche. with TomRiddelsdell |
| 3rd RP. A brilliant route with varied technical climbing. Found the bottom section tough and couldn't manage with the morning grease. Sustained but never too pumpy. Thanks to Tom for team beta and psyche. with TomRiddelsdell |
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| Ramon Marin u | 30 Mar, 2019 | Lead dog |
Fought like a bastard for the onsight slithering out of grease holds, only to fail at the very top. Argh! Quality route though, next time., with viki harvey |
| Fought like a bastard for the onsight slithering out of grease holds, only to fail at the very top. Argh! Quality route though, next time., with viki harvey |
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| Michael Bortoluzzi | 19 Aug, 2018 | Lead RP |
2nd go with jon_gill1 |
| 2nd go with jon_gill1 |
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| TwofoZeus | 19 Aug, 2018 | 2nd dog |
First half was very good but very damp, slipped off the rail at the bottom a few times from wet holds.
Really good route, very technical and technically sustained climbing until the break. Followed by very good and fun climbing. Too exhausted on second go. Will return with Richard Kendrick |
| First half was very good but very damp, slipped off the rail at the bottom a few times from wet holds.
Really good route, very technical and technically sustained climbing until the break. Followed by very good and fun climbing. Too exhausted on second go. Will return with Richard Kendrick |
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| Richard Kendrick | 19 Aug, 2018 | Lead RP |
Sooooo greasy! Spent ages drying off holds. From the big rest it’s much easier but has the better climbing on I thought with Simon |
| Sooooo greasy! Spent ages drying off holds. From the big rest it’s much easier but has the better climbing on I thought with Simon |
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| Rockmonkey1977 | 3 Aug, 2018 | Lead RP |
First try today, second in total, whilst hanging the qd’s. I love this route, so varied, so good. Powerful crimps followed by a PE section followed by a big rest. Then big move, followed by powerful laybacking, a cheeky knee scum and a teetering top out. It has it all!
(Done whilst keto) with David D |
| First try today, second in total, whilst hanging the qd’s. I love this route, so varied, so good. Powerful crimps followed by a PE section followed by a big rest. Then big move, followed by powerful laybacking, a cheeky knee scum and a teetering top out. It has it all!
(Done whilst keto) with David D |
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| Q.Estelles | 21 Jul, 2018 | Lead RP | After a first try 2 weeks ago, it went nicely with a dyno at the bottom at the first attempt |
| After a first try 2 weeks ago, it went nicely with a dyno at the bottom at the first attempt | |||
| Hidden | 16 Jul, 2018 | Lead dog | |
| Hidden | 16 Jul, 2018 | Lead RP | |
| Q.Estelles | 8 Jul, 2018 | Lead dog | |
| Hidden | 1 Jul, 2018 | Lead RP | |
| S.Kew | 22 Jun, 2018 | Lead RP |
with Phillip Hoare |
with Phillip Hoare |
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| dbrooks | 3 Jun, 2018 | Lead RP |
very nearly onsighted this yesterday, fell at the last bolt pulling through the final bulge with Dexter JW |
| very nearly onsighted this yesterday, fell at the last bolt pulling through the final bulge with Dexter JW |
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| Dexter JW | 2 Jun, 2018 | Lead dnf |
with dbrooks |
with dbrooks |
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| nacnud | 6 May, 2018 | Lead dog | |
| chancer | 6 May, 2018 | Lead dog |
with Marc Duhig |
with Marc Duhig |
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| marcduhig | 6 May, 2018 | Lead rpt |
2nd go but only due to first few holds being damp, top went clean. Did again in full heat to get the full fat tick. with chancer |
| 2nd go but only due to first few holds being damp, top went clean. Did again in full heat to get the full fat tick. with chancer |
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| marcduhig | 14 Oct, 2017 | Lead dnf |
gutted I couldn't try it, will be back. with pep |
| gutted I couldn't try it, will be back. with pep |
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| tclewis | 23 Aug, 2017 | Lead dog | So close today, got so pumped. Despite not yet getting it clean, I've decided this is one of my favourites on Portland. Hopefully I'll be back sometime next week, feeling a lot more fresh. |
| So close today, got so pumped. Despite not yet getting it clean, I've decided this is one of my favourites on Portland. Hopefully I'll be back sometime next week, feeling a lot more fresh. | |||
| Jan Masat | 19 Aug, 2017 | Lead RP |
2nd go.Long and varied route which is never to desperate. Brilliant stuff. with Sarah |
| 2nd go.Long and varied route which is never to desperate. Brilliant stuff. with Sarah |
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| Hidden | 19 Aug, 2017 | Lead β | |
| tclewis | 16 Aug, 2017 | Lead dog | Felt really hard at this point, but moves are really good and very much my style. |
| Felt really hard at this point, but moves are really good and very much my style. | |||
| tclewis | 16 Aug, 2017 | TR dog | Felt a lot easier this time round, rested on rope twice. Might go next try. |
| Felt a lot easier this time round, rested on rope twice. Might go next try. | |||
| Hidden | 12 Aug, 2017 | Lead RP | |
| James Oakes | 12 Aug, 2017 | Lead O/S | |
| Gus | 12 Aug, 2017 | Lead β |
Possibly the most fatigued I have ever been on a climb after a morning's DWS aswell. Body wasn't doing what I told it to! with soup crew, James Oakes |
| Possibly the most fatigued I have ever been on a climb after a morning's DWS aswell. Body wasn't doing what I told it to! with soup crew, James Oakes |
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| feeko | 4 Aug, 2017 | Lead O/S | |
| blaza1 | 15 Jul, 2017 | Lead O/S |
with JackMac |
with JackMac |
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| Aaron.Clifford | 15 Jul, 2017 | Lead RP | was really greasy so was chalking up more than climbing! Went second go, hard one to onsight but a steady 7b to redpoint. |
| was really greasy so was chalking up more than climbing! Went second go, hard one to onsight but a steady 7b to redpoint. | |||
| brian watson | 17 Jun, 2017 | Lead dnf |
gash conditions bailed.(don't understand the soapy thing some routes ok some not? very hot today) with Mike Hawkins |
| gash conditions bailed.(don't understand the soapy thing some routes ok some not? very hot today) with Mike Hawkins |
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| Hidden | 17 Jun, 2017 | Lead dog | |
| hankyc u | 4 Jun, 2017 | Lead RP | |
| Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing u | 16 Apr, 2017 | Lead O/S |
Another immaculate, long pitch that keeps on coming right until the lower-off. with penny.orr |
| Another immaculate, long pitch that keeps on coming right until the lower-off. with penny.orr |
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| Mark Stevenson | 13 Mar, 2017 | Lead β | |
| Ellis Bird | ??, 2017 | Lead O/S | |
| Hidden | 9 Oct, 2016 | Lead dog | |
| Wendy | 2 Oct, 2016 | Lead O/S |
with Kate K |
with Kate K |
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| Rockmonkey1977 | 25 Sep, 2016 | Lead dog | On the flash attempt I fell about one move below the ledge, damn!!! Then I went straight to the top, absolutely fantastic route but some greasy holds low down. Have saved the 2nd attempt for another day as I was pretty wasted after the first and it was the second day on... |
| On the flash attempt I fell about one move below the ledge, damn!!! Then I went straight to the top, absolutely fantastic route but some greasy holds low down. Have saved the 2nd attempt for another day as I was pretty wasted after the first and it was the second day on... | |||
| Hidden | 11 Sep, 2016 | TR dog | |
| Cyan | 6 Aug, 2016 | Lead dog |
Dogged clips in then had a RP, fell off just before the ledge - not too bad :-) with Quiddity |
| Dogged clips in then had a RP, fell off just before the ledge - not too bad :-) with Quiddity |
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| chris_woodsy | 31 Jul, 2016 | Lead RP |
Brilliant climb! Was terribly greasy when first arrived. Holds improved after a mega clean up operation and some afternoon sun. Tough start (crimps and flint), big rest (ledge), sustained top (beta dependant). Second session, 3rd RP, 1st of the day. with Widda |
| Brilliant climb! Was terribly greasy when first arrived. Holds improved after a mega clean up operation and some afternoon sun. Tough start (crimps and flint), big rest (ledge), sustained top (beta dependant). Second session, 3rd RP, 1st of the day. with Widda |
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| Hidden | 23 Jul, 2016 | Lead O/S | |
| littleluke | 23 Jul, 2016 | Lead dog | second session had did it in two, fell at entering the lower grove after the rest |
| second session had did it in two, fell at entering the lower grove after the rest | |||
| AlexD | 13 Jul, 2016 | Lead RP |
Some super shiny crimps at the start, pinged off a few times before conditions improved! Rest is lovely though, some amazing holds on the second half! with Shamina |
| Some super shiny crimps at the start, pinged off a few times before conditions improved! Rest is lovely though, some amazing holds on the second half! with Shamina |
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| Hidden | 7 Jul, 2016 | Lead β | |
| littleluke | 2 Jul, 2016 | 2nd β | Moves in the bank for the rp |
| Moves in the bank for the rp | |||
| Edward Kwong | 15 May, 2016 | Lead RP |
Powerful start on tiny holds, halfway ledge rest and then sequency upper section. Sustained and varied with good rests available. Sent 5th go... with Matti Puckridge |
| Powerful start on tiny holds, halfway ledge rest and then sequency upper section. Sustained and varied with good rests available. Sent 5th go... with Matti Puckridge |
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| Matti Puckridge | 14 May, 2016 | Lead RP |
Hard start and hard finish with great sustained climbing the whole way. Find the rests. with Edward Kwong |
| Hard start and hard finish with great sustained climbing the whole way. Find the rests. with Edward Kwong |
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| rachelvlc | 14 May, 2016 | TR | |
| lawsy_boy1 | 8 May, 2016 | Lead RP | |
| JackMac | 8 May, 2016 | Lead RP |
One of my very best climbing experiences :) On arrival, conditions were greasy from top to bottom but improved with a brush and even more so when the sun arrived. Don't be put off by the soapy starting holds! with Hayley, lawsy_boy1 |
| One of my very best climbing experiences :) On arrival, conditions were greasy from top to bottom but improved with a brush and even more so when the sun arrived. Don't be put off by the soapy starting holds! with Hayley, lawsy_boy1 |
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| spidey | 7 May, 2016 | TR dog |
Account open with Daryl |
| Account open with Daryl |
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| JackMac | 30 Apr, 2016 | Lead dog |
After a few false starts on the soapy crimps, lead to the final break before pumping out. Really need to save something for the final stretch! Great line. with Dan 85 |
| After a few false starts on the soapy crimps, lead to the final break before pumping out. Really need to save something for the final stretch! Great line. with Dan 85 |
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| Dan 85 | 30 Apr, 2016 | Lead RP |
with JackMac |
with JackMac |
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| Hidden | 24 Apr, 2016 | Lead dog | |
| BenL | 23 Apr, 2016 | Lead β |
with nimajneb |
with nimajneb |
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| nimajneb | 23 Apr, 2016 | Lead O/S |
with BenL |
with BenL |
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| Tomar | 13 Mar, 2016 | Lead dog |
Almost 2nd go but my hand slipped off the slopy soapy holds after the crux. Will need to come back for this. Cool route with JackMac |
| Almost 2nd go but my hand slipped off the slopy soapy holds after the crux. Will need to come back for this. Cool route with JackMac |
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| Tommyads | ??, 2016 | - | |
| Sophie Nunn | 6 Aug, 2015 | Lead RP |
with Ed Babs |
with Ed Babs |
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| philhaigh | 6 Aug, 2015 | Lead dog | |
| ThomasB | ? Aug, 2015 | Lead RP | |
| Ellie Rymer | 17 Jun, 2015 | 2nd dnf |
with Mark Chevassut |
with Mark Chevassut |
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| Mark Chevassut | 17 Jun, 2015 | Lead dog |
great climb, but need to repeat when conditions are better. with Ellie Rymer |
| great climb, but need to repeat when conditions are better. with Ellie Rymer |
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| Hidden | 16 May, 2015 | Lead O/S | |
| Bristoldave | 18 Jan, 2015 | Lead RP |
with Derwood |
with Derwood |
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| Bristoldave | 4 Jan, 2015 | Lead dog |
Great route. Greasy today. with Luke |
| Great route. Greasy today. with Luke |
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| NewHam | ? Aug, 2014 | Lead O/S | |
| lewiz | 21 Jun, 2014 | Lead β | |
| Cyan | 25 Aug, 2013 | TR dog |
Clean from end of crux to top. with Vince |
| Clean from end of crux to top. with Vince |
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| redjerry | 25 Aug, 2013 | TR O/S | |
| Hidden | 21 Aug, 2013 | Lead O/S | |
| 3 Names | 11 Aug, 2013 | Lead O/S |
with Cyan |
with Cyan |
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| Cyan | 3 Aug, 2013 | TR dog |
Just brilliant. Pretty much ready to start RPs. with Tony |
| Just brilliant. Pretty much ready to start RPs. with Tony |
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| Luke Dawson | 26 May, 2013 | Lead O/S | |
| PeterDawson | 26 May, 2013 | Lead O/S | |
| Hidden | ? May, 2013 | Lead | |
| dan gibson | 18 Sep, 2012 | Lead O/S |
with julie carroll, helen gibson |
with julie carroll, helen gibson |
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| John Mcshea | 23 Jun, 2012 | Lead O/S |
with tomrainbow |
with tomrainbow |
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| GarethHall | 24 Mar, 2012 | Lead dog |
Project...:-) with paddygoodwin |
| Project...:-) with paddygoodwin |
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| tom106 | 23 Oct, 2011 | Lead β |
had never climbed above 3rd bolt+couldnt remeber any of it...semi flash...ish....brilliant route! with chris s, dan |
| had never climbed above 3rd bolt+couldnt remeber any of it...semi flash...ish....brilliant route! with chris s, dan |
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| Ed Babs | 29 Sep, 2011 | Lead RP |
2nd go. Lovely climb. with Dr Steve |
| 2nd go. Lovely climb. with Dr Steve |
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| Hidden | 3 Sep, 2011 | Lead O/S | |
| tom106 | 27 Aug, 2011 | Lead dog |
fell on onsight and ripped a flapper....next time with laura |
| fell on onsight and ripped a flapper....next time with laura |
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| Hidden | 14 Aug, 2011 | Lead dog | |
| Marti999 u | 14 Aug, 2011 | Lead O/S |
with sam.sam.sam.ferguson |
with sam.sam.sam.ferguson |
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| ben hargreaves | 13 Sep, 2009 | Lead O/S | Pumped all the way! |
| Pumped all the way! | |||
| bigie bob | 29 Aug, 2009 | Lead O/S | |
| La Mont | ??, 2009 | Lead O/S | |
| feilx | 14 Sep, 2008 | Lead dog |
with heather rogers |
with heather rogers |
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| Martin Krasnansky | 7 Aug, 2008 | Lead O/S | |
| keefe | 17 Sep, 2006 | Lead O/S |
with Tansy |
with Tansy |
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| Hidden | ??, 2004 | - | |
| Hidden | ??, 2001 | - | |
| Mike Owen | 2 Jun, 1995 | Lead O/S |
with Elaine Owen |
with Elaine Owen |
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Route of Interest
Sweet Smell of Success
Grade: 7b ***(Wallsend North)