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UKClimbing Team

28m.

Rockfax Description
An attractive line that fires up a smart white groove after an easy © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 13/Jul/1989

Ticklists

Portland

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Bethan May Davies 7 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Basically did this on the first go then my foot popped unexpectedly on the last move! Was totally robbed! Then went for the redpoint and messed up the sequencing. Got frustrated and let the redpoint pressure get to me. I stripped it in order to try other climbs, I will have to go back for the tick another time :)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Basically did this on the first go then my foot popped unexpectedly on the last move! Was totally robbed! Then went for the redpoint and messed up the sequencing. Got frustrated and let the redpoint pressure get to me. I stripped it in order to try other climbs, I will have to go back for the tick another time :)
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 21 Sep, 2019 Lead RP
Tom Hudson 21 Sep, 2019 TR
Martin Bagshaw 21 Sep, 2019 TR O/S First onsight of the grade, should have probably gone for the lead.
First onsight of the grade, should have probably gone for the lead.
J1_TOV 8 Sep, 2019 Lead RP Misread top on 7th Sept going for OS due to those pesky Russian decoy ticks and dodgy beta from Taff. Came back next day to a busy crag with fatigue setting in, and totally fluffed the whole line. Went next go easily. Should have been OS. What a ruddy palaver!
Misread top on 7th Sept going for OS due to those pesky Russian decoy ticks and dodgy beta from Taff. Came back next day to a busy crag with fatigue setting in, and totally fluffed the whole line. Went next go easily. Should have been OS. What a ruddy palaver!
Cass31 8 Sep, 2019 Lead O/S
with J1_TOV
with J1_TOV
Tutu 7 Sep, 2019 Lead dog didn't commit to the slightly bigger than expected move to the crimp at the very end before the jug, and peeled off.
with Scribe
didn't commit to the slightly bigger than expected move to the crimp at the very end before the jug, and peeled off.
with Scribe
S.Kew 3 Sep, 2019 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 7 Jul, 2019 Lead O/S
adamsriches 6 Jul, 2019 Lead RP Really nice climbing, hard to onsight through the groove but got second go before the sun came round
Really nice climbing, hard to onsight through the groove but got second go before the sun came round
dryvita 16 Jun, 2019 Lead RP Played on this a few weekends ago, managed to drop the crux a few times in a row and then it started raining so came back today for revenge. Remembered it really well so it went first go. Loved it - brilliant flowing sequence up the groove and through the crux
with Matt Broughton
Played on this a few weekends ago, managed to drop the crux a few times in a row and then it started raining so came back today for revenge. Remembered it really well so it went first go. Loved it - brilliant flowing sequence up the groove and through the crux
with Matt Broughton
Harrietbarford 27 May, 2019 Lead RP
johnhan310 27 May, 2019 Lead RP Very tricky in the groove and the crux up high is hard. Totally class route thought and amazing to stand on and trust such bad feet. Tried it on Sunday and worked the moves and then came back on Monday and did it first go.
Very tricky in the groove and the crux up high is hard. Totally class route thought and amazing to stand on and trust such bad feet. Tried it on Sunday and worked the moves and then came back on Monday and did it first go.
samparsons 25 May, 2019 Lead β
john lynch 4 May, 2019 Lead O/S
Hidden 19 Apr, 2019 Lead β
brian watson 19 Apr, 2019 Lead RP Great route, although getting to the start of the groove is a bit choosy for 3 stars, groove is excellent and tough high crux.
with Drew, Louis Boscence
Great route, although getting to the start of the groove is a bit choosy for 3 stars, groove is excellent and tough high crux.
with Drew, Louis Boscence
Bethan May Davies 4 Apr, 2019 Lead dog
with John
with John
W d c 29 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S Draws in place.
with Dan Cook, Lewis, Al Rosier, Timm. O
Draws in place.
with Dan Cook, Lewis, Al Rosier, Timm. O
Rockmonkey1977 4 Aug, 2018 Lead dnf Given the other comments I feel bad writing this but I thought this climb was absolutely pants. It felt about 3 grades harder than Halfway to Heaven, had a dangerously nasty start on rock that’s ready to disintegrate to a bolt that’s too high to clipstick with a normal length stick. Then the solidness of the rock improves but it’s dirty and grimy on friction dependant moves grovelling up a groove with barely any holds. Then the minor feet that were available disappear... Probably didn’t help that I was rushing due to the setting sun and imminent loss of light but I couldn’t see any moves so l ended up hauling on qd’s to get to the top. I won’t be hurrying back to this one. 3 stars, more like 3 turds... Caveat: it’s probably very nice and I probably misread it completely or maybe I was having a very bad day...
with David D
Given the other comments I feel bad writing this but I thought this climb was absolutely pants. It felt about 3 grades harder than Halfway to Heaven, had a dangerously nasty start on rock that’s ready to disintegrate to a bolt that’s too high to clipstick with a normal length stick. Then the solidness of the rock improves but it’s dirty and grimy on friction dependant moves grovelling up a groove with barely any holds. Then the minor feet that were available disappear... Probably didn’t help that I was rushing due to the setting sun and imminent loss of light but I couldn’t see any moves so l ended up hauling on qd’s to get to the top. I won’t be hurrying back to this one. 3 stars, more like 3 turds... Caveat: it’s probably very nice and I probably misread it completely or maybe I was having a very bad day...
with David D
Hidden ?Jul, 2017 -
brian watson 17 Jun, 2017 Lead dog made a surprisingly good attempt at onsighting this one, fell on last hard moves near top. Really great route. (shoulder tweek so stopped climbing)
with Mike Hawkins
made a surprisingly good attempt at onsighting this one, fell on last hard moves near top. Really great route. (shoulder tweek so stopped climbing)
with Mike Hawkins
Ellis Bird ??, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2016 -
AlexD 3 Jun, 2016 Lead RP
philhaigh 3 Jun, 2016 Lead RP First go went smoothly but fell trying to clip crux clip. Second go was a complete disaster, nearly falling pretty much everywhere, and fumbling the same clip for hours, but somehow didn't fall off!
First go went smoothly but fell trying to clip crux clip. Second go was a complete disaster, nearly falling pretty much everywhere, and fumbling the same clip for hours, but somehow didn't fall off!
philhaigh 30 May, 2016 2nd dog
with Aarron Schofield, Tommyads, melD
with Aarron Schofield, Tommyads, melD
Hidden 30 May, 2016 2nd RP
philhaigh 29 May, 2016 2nd dog One mistake :(
with Aarron Schofield, Quitiweb, Tommyads, melD
One mistake :(
with Aarron Schofield, Quitiweb, Tommyads, melD
La Mont 17 May, 2016 Lead O/S
with Purple Sue
with Purple Sue
Hidden 17 May, 2016 TR dog
nimajneb ?Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 24 Sep, 2013 Lead RP Should have onsighted, miss-read the top crux
with Rich
Should have onsighted, miss-read the top crux
with Rich
Ed Babs 27 May, 2013 Lead RP Large block at the start fallen down. Use a clip stick for the high first bolt and climb to the left of the rock fall. Good rock and technical climbing in the groove above. Slipped near top on os. 2nd go.
with Vicky Hau
Large block at the start fallen down. Use a clip stick for the high first bolt and climb to the left of the rock fall. Good rock and technical climbing in the groove above. Slipped near top on os. 2nd go.
with Vicky Hau
dan gibson 18 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
with julie carroll, helen gibson
with julie carroll, helen gibson
Marti999 1 Jun, 2012 Lead β
with Paul Hayes
with Paul Hayes
Martin Krasnansky 20 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S Amazing climbing!
Amazing climbing!
18 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set