UKC

800m, 26 pitches. You will need a good guide book. And still it's easy to loose the way..
Approach 1 hrs. (Check the way down from the Promontoir hut to the abseilpoint the evening before!) Climbing 7 to 9 hrs.

Allain, Leininger 21/Aug/1935


ClimberDateStyle
piken 03/Aug/17 -

From the Promontoire hut descended to the glacier easily with 60m rope - 2 abs. Took a little time to satisfy our selves that we were at the start of the route - but we started on slabs under the middle gully/water fall- essentially in a bay which was formed by a buttress of rock which protruded in to the glacier and effectively ended it. Traversed on a shallow rightwards angle to cross an arête via a little wall which then gave us access to easier ground and ultimately the low angled Fauteuil slope above. Headed rightwards the right hand end of the roofs which can be identified the night before from the Crapaud and climbed a few slightly steeper pitches into an easier rightwards slanting ramp. We went too far on the easier ground and only stopped when the way was looking unlikely and unclimbed - approx 150m below a large roof section - a peg and tat rap station suggested we werent the first to do this and we abed diagonally left 30m on to a more obvious traverse line which put us back on route. Made our way more easily to the Cheminee Verte - again an obvious feature identified the night before from the Crapaud. From here the line to the top more obvious - more pegs or the easiest passage - some of the climbing was more physical HVS/ E1 moves and some rock in the upper section a bit more dubious and potentially serious. Finished along the traverse. Start 04:15, 10:00 at the obvious roofs. 12:00 on the summit, 2 1/2 hrs for the traverse, back at Arsin car park 17:15. Used crampons to cross the glaciers and on the traverse, Longest abseil was 55 meters to clear the berg on the decent.

with Andy
Hidden 10/Oct/16 AltLd dnf
Hidden ?/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
Rob Pitt 10/Jul/16 AltLd
with Lou
Kris ?/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Short roped the entire wall. Finished with the traverse of the Meije.

alexm198 21/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Cool route marred slightly by the crappy rock in the lower sections. A bit loose at the top too, though great climbing in the middle redeems it somewhat. A little under 10 hours for the route, 5 hours for the (involved) descent. Big imposing face!

Hidden 21/Aug/15 AltLd
aliem 12/Jul/15 -

Voie Pierre Allain. Climbed as a 3. Epic descent in the fog :-(

Hidden 04/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
rlade ??/2014 -

Climbed the classic TD (800m) in 10/12 hrs as a three on good rock,route finding a little tricky at times. Some ice on the route. Needed an axe for the traverse of Le Meige which took another 4 hrs. Long day back at the Aigle refuge for 11pm. Hardest pitches 5+. Climbed in big boots and bivvy gear etc.

with Phil Ingle
guy757 11/Jul/12 AltLd
alpinist63 ?/Jul/11 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
michaelja ?/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1994 AltLd O/S
bobelvedere ?/Aug/90 AltLd

Climbed it from a bivuac below the glacier. Climbing time 8 hours.

with Andreas Frey
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