20m.

Rockfax Description
Another fantastic stamina-test with a debilitating reach near the top - shorties beware. © Rockfax

FA. Joff Cook 30/Apr/1996

Ticklists

Dorset Sport Climbs A-Z, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland

Feedback

UserDateNotes
BenNorman 27 May Show βeta
βeta: Beta: come into the large side pull pocket (by the 2ndast draw) with the left hand, slap far right to side pull and then again to good edge in the sandy coloured rock, left hand gaston and then again to jug pocket
 
Show beta
βeta: Beta: come into the large side pull pocket (by the 2ndast draw) with the left hand, slap far right to side pull and then again to good edge in the sandy coloured rock, left hand gaston and then again to jug pocket
Aaron.Clifford 7 May Show βeta
βeta: I'm 5,8-ish and did the reach if that means anything, it was pretty much at the max of my ability but got done with some momentum! Really hard to do this sequence from the ground however so perhaps need to find an alternative.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'm 5,8-ish and did the reach if that means anything, it was pretty much at the max of my ability but got done with some momentum! Really hard to do this sequence from the ground however so perhaps need to find an alternative.
The Jazz Butcher 15 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: "Endless Slapping" now that would be a good route name! Totally agree Jimbo. Possible for those without a long reach, but a harder sequence, 7c+ overall.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: "Endless Slapping" now that would be a good route name! Totally agree Jimbo. Possible for those without a long reach, but a harder sequence, 7c+ overall.
JIMBO 15 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: There are three methods to the crux - one of which is a long reach which can frustrate shorties with endless slapping. However there are two alternatives that are perfectly static for the shorter climber but harder.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There are three methods to the crux - one of which is a long reach which can frustrate shorties with endless slapping. However there are two alternatives that are perfectly static for the shorter climber but harder.
The Jazz Butcher 9 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: This is an excellent route with steep and powerful technical climbing. There is a big reach / dyno near the top. However, it has been done by strong people less than 6' though the grade goes up to 7c+ for them.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This is an excellent route with steep and powerful technical climbing. There is a big reach / dyno near the top. However, it has been done by strong people less than 6' though the grade goes up to 7c+ for them.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
JCAshman 11 Aug Lead RP Great route. Felt hard, with lots of long slaps and had to really fight. Second go.
Great route. Felt hard, with lots of long slaps and had to really fight. Second go.
BenNorman 27 May Lead RP 2nd repoint after falling off the hard move at the start, not as good as road rage but still 2 or 3 *. 7c+ for sure
2nd repoint after falling off the hard move at the start, not as good as road rage but still 2 or 3 *. 7c+ for sure
Ellis Bird 17 Jan Lead RP
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 1 Nov, 2018 Lead RP 2nd go. Dropped the flash at the top then second go used different beta. Really good line.
with Ellis Bird, drewish
2nd go. Dropped the flash at the top then second go used different beta. Really good line.
with Ellis Bird, drewish
Mark Stevenson 9 Oct, 2018 Lead RP
Ed Babs 21 Sep, 2018 Lead dog 19 August 2017 with Mike. Coming together slowly. 27 July 2017 with Si. Gave up on Louis' left hand way up the headwall and went right. Cool sequence and easier for me. Still hard, especially after the sustained start, but it feels possible.
19 August 2017 with Mike. Coming together slowly. 27 July 2017 with Si. Gave up on Louis' left hand way up the headwall and went right. Cool sequence and easier for me. Still hard, especially after the sustained start, but it feels possible.
marcduhig 4 Aug, 2018 Lead rpt Finally done after 8 attempts. The right hand finishing is longer but without the desperately long reach to a poor 2/3 finger crimp. RH has to be the next grade if you have managed it.
with Clive
Finally done after 8 attempts. The right hand finishing is longer but without the desperately long reach to a poor 2/3 finger crimp. RH has to be the next grade if you have managed it.
with Clive
Beefy Bert 1 Jul, 2018 Lead RP
Hidden 3 Jun, 2018 Lead dog
Hidden 28 May, 2018 Lead dog
Hidden 19 May, 2018 Lead dog
Hidden 17 May, 2018 Lead dog
samparsons 13 May, 2018 Lead dog Great route, looking forward to getting back on it. 3rd session today, it feels harder than it did on the first session.
Great route, looking forward to getting back on it. 3rd session today, it feels harder than it did on the first session.
Hidden 13 May, 2018 Lead dog
marcduhig 8 May, 2018 Lead dog
with chancer
with chancer
Hidden 28 Jul, 2017 Lead dog
Dandan 8 Jul, 2017 Lead RP Finally done, good fight, makes you work right to the end!
with Linc
Finally done, good fight, makes you work right to the end!
with Linc
Hidden 8 Jul, 2017 Lead dog
Hidden 2 Jul, 2017 Lead dog
Hidden 1 Jul, 2017 Lead dog
Hidden 18 Jun, 2017 Lead dog
Dandan 3 Jun, 2017 Lead dog Done in one hang, much better conditions for a change. Should go next time with fresh fingers
with Linc
Done in one hang, much better conditions for a change. Should go next time with fresh fingers
with Linc
Hidden 3 Jun, 2017 Lead dog
Hidden 13 May, 2017 Lead dog
Hidden 11 Apr, 2017 Lead dnf
Dandan 18 Mar, 2017 Lead dog Second session, possibly even slimier than the first, nearly decked when I slid off near the third bolt! Need half decent conditions to make some longer links
Second session, possibly even slimier than the first, nearly decked when I slid off near the third bolt! Need half decent conditions to make some longer links
Dandan 11 Mar, 2017 Lead dog First session, a real gem, the reach isn't impossibly big either.
with Linc
First session, a real gem, the reach isn't impossibly big either.
with Linc
brices 30 Aug, 2016 Lead RP Brilliant, a great day out by the sea, great climbing,
Brilliant, a great day out by the sea, great climbing,
brices 14 Aug, 2016 Lead dog What an awesome route, Came off the top boulder problem a few times. Anyone who thinks this is 7c is nuts, 7c+ at least.
What an awesome route, Came off the top boulder problem a few times. Anyone who thinks this is 7c is nuts, 7c+ at least.
i_a_coops 11 Jun, 2016 Lead RP
with Mark
with Mark
jackgriffiths 17 Aug, 2014 Lead RP Got it second day after getting the draws in. Amazing route. Like climbing a 20m woodie. Hard for yhe grade, doubt you'd get any complaints at 7c+
Got it second day after getting the draws in. Amazing route. Like climbing a 20m woodie. Hard for yhe grade, doubt you'd get any complaints at 7c+
DDDD 13 Jul, 2013 Lead dog Bit crimpy but good moves, big span at the top is hard. Overall not as good as road rage with too much obvious glue used.
with Sham
Bit crimpy but good moves, big span at the top is hard. Overall not as good as road rage with too much obvious glue used.
with Sham
Hidden 16 Sep, 2012 Lead dog
dannyboy83 21 Aug, 2012 Lead RP
dan gibson 25 Oct, 2009 Lead RP
Hidden 31 May, 2009 Lead RP
bigie bob 11 Aug, 2008 Lead RP
Martin Krasnansky 1 Jul, 2008 Lead RP 2.try Amazing line.Shame on someone who cheapped new holds on left.
2.try Amazing line.Shame on someone who cheapped new holds on left.
La Mont ??, 2008 -
The Jazz Butcher ?May, 2006 Lead RP
with mark glaister
with mark glaister
19 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Lead
Not Set
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Repeated
Not Set