18m.

Rockfax Description
A sequency power-problem through the mid-height overhang. Originally the second crux was done as a layback all the way up the groove, harder. Many now use a small crimp to rock up and leftwards to overcome this section. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 24/Apr/1994

Ticklists

The Cuttings Sport Climbing Apprenticeship, West Country Climbs, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland, UK 8a and up

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Kris suriyo 8 May Show βeta
βeta: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oTsx9F7-0vc&feature=youtu.be
 
Show beta
βeta: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oTsx9F7-0vc&feature=youtu.be
JIMBO 23 Dec, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: ADAM: As far as I can see it's just the same as it has been for years...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: ADAM: As far as I can see it's just the same as it has been for years...
JIMBO 12 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Forgot that Monoculture which used to get 8a was done in '93, so maybe it was the fourth 8a in its day...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Forgot that Monoculture which used to get 8a was done in '93, so maybe it was the fourth 8a in its day...
JIMBO 12 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: It was the third 8a on Portland, since Freaky Ralph was done in '92, and Fighting Torque was done two weeks before this...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It was the third 8a on Portland, since Freaky Ralph was done in '92, and Fighting Torque was done two weeks before this...
Adam Lincoln 16 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Hear a hold has broke on this now? Anyone any info?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hear a hold has broke on this now? Anyone any info?
The Jazz Butcher 17 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Depends on your style of climbing. Redpointed Fighting Torque on 5th day. However, I find the crux move on Breathing Method virtually impossible for me.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Depends on your style of climbing. Redpointed Fighting Torque on 5th day. However, I find the crux move on Breathing Method virtually impossible for me.
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 27 May Lead dnf
Kris suriyo 2 Mar Lead RP Great route. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oTsx9F7-0vc&feature=youtu.be
Great route. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oTsx9F7-0vc&feature=youtu.be
Hidden 4 Aug, 2018 Lead dog
jakecollins 16 Apr, 2018 Lead RP
Hidden 15 Oct, 2017 Lead dog
Hidden 25 Jul, 2017 Lead dog
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 19 May, 2017 Lead RP
GrahamGiles 16 Apr, 2017 Lead RP I got it!!! My first 8a! Every move was at my limit but i got every move perfect. Well chuffed!
I got it!!! My first 8a! Every move was at my limit but i got every move perfect. Well chuffed!
GrahamGiles 14 Apr, 2017 TR dog Managed to top rope it with one fall then did the crux to top! Tried it lead but ran out of steam.
Managed to top rope it with one fall then did the crux to top! Tried it lead but ran out of steam.
Hidden 13 Apr, 2017 Lead dnf
Pete Scott 5 Apr, 2017 TR dnf 1st session. a few top rope plays. Got to the crimp fine. hopefully crimp will feel better in colder conditions. little of the rest goes as yet.
1st session. a few top rope plays. Got to the crimp fine. hopefully crimp will feel better in colder conditions. little of the rest goes as yet.
GrahamGiles 1 Apr, 2017 TR dog 2nd day trying this one. Managed to link the crux moves but popped off the small crimp after the pinch. Starting to feel like this will go with a few more sessions!
with Yijing, Qisheng Xie, Aaron.Clifford, Lee Giles
2nd day trying this one. Managed to link the crux moves but popped off the small crimp after the pinch. Starting to feel like this will go with a few more sessions!
with Yijing, Qisheng Xie, Aaron.Clifford, Lee Giles
GrahamGiles 25 Mar, 2017 TR dog Worked out the beta, I ended up choosing left hand mono after straining my right middle finger. Will have to train for this one and come back stronger.
Worked out the beta, I ended up choosing left hand mono after straining my right middle finger. Will have to train for this one and come back stronger.
Ramon Marin 19 Mar, 2017 Lead dnf A bit better, but still miles away from doing this
with viki harvey
A bit better, but still miles away from doing this
with viki harvey
Ramon Marin 18 Mar, 2017 Lead dnf more frustration
with viki harvey
more frustration
with viki harvey
Ramon Marin 17 Mar, 2017 Lead dnf desperate, can't hang the crimp
with viki harvey
desperate, can't hang the crimp
with viki harvey
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 13 Mar, 2017 Lead dog What an idiot. Mint conditions and I fall off the one move I've never dropped before. Got through the crux easily... skipping the bolt is scary :(
What an idiot. Mint conditions and I fall off the one move I've never dropped before. Got through the crux easily... skipping the bolt is scary :(
_m.cox_ 6 Nov, 2016 Lead dog Seemed very hard through the middle section
with yan hawkins, Prajak
Seemed very hard through the middle section
with yan hawkins, Prajak
Ramon Marin 25 Sep, 2016 Lead dog Quick play to see what's the score, feels hard
with viki harvey
Quick play to see what's the score, feels hard
with viki harvey
Hidden 11 Sep, 2016 Lead dog
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 18 Jul, 2016 TR RP
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 16 Jul, 2016 Lead dog Fell doing the long reach move from the pinch. The hard moves were over! Done that three times now! Lame.
with Ollie Wall, purple sue, Steph Roberts
Fell doing the long reach move from the pinch. The hard moves were over! Done that three times now! Lame.
with Ollie Wall, purple sue, Steph Roberts
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 8 Jul, 2016 Lead dog
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 24 Jun, 2016 TR And again 2/7/16. 3/7/16 three RP attempts, made it to move before pinch.
with Steph Roberts, Ollie Wall, Andy Lamont, Ben J, purple sue
And again 2/7/16. 3/7/16 three RP attempts, made it to move before pinch.
with Steph Roberts, Ollie Wall, Andy Lamont, Ben J, purple sue
Hidden 11 Jun, 2016 Lead dnf
Hidden 5 Jun, 2016 Lead dog
brices 13 Mar, 2016 Lead dog A few goes, all moves done but find the move off the floowstone Gaston despirit
A few goes, all moves done but find the move off the floowstone Gaston despirit
thomasmouse 5 Mar, 2016 Lead dog
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 19 Feb, 2016 Lead dog
La benya 21 Nov, 2015 Lead dog
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 31 Oct, 2015 - Beta sorted. Now to start redpointing again!
with Louis B, Marti999
Beta sorted. Now to start redpointing again!
with Louis B, Marti999
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 17 Oct, 2015 TR
with Linc
with Linc
Hidden 15 Feb, 2015 Lead RP
JM 31 Jan, 2015 Lead RP Couldn't even do the first hard move on the dog but then somehow did it 1st redpoint!
with Anna Reiners
Couldn't even do the first hard move on the dog but then somehow did it 1st redpoint!
with Anna Reiners
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 8 Dec, 2014 Lead dog
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 26 Oct, 2014 Lead dog 3.5 redpoints today. High point going for the last crux move. The .5 redpoint ended with a trip to A and E for my head to be glued back together, thanks to the guys climbing nearby.
with Angela, Steph Roberts, samtucker
3.5 redpoints today. High point going for the last crux move. The .5 redpoint ended with a trip to A and E for my head to be glued back together, thanks to the guys climbing nearby.
with Angela, Steph Roberts, samtucker
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 22 Oct, 2014 TR This time it's serious. Got from ground to move going for the pinch and whole crux sequence sorted. Just need to come back with power.
This time it's serious. Got from ground to move going for the pinch and whole crux sequence sorted. Just need to come back with power.
nuggetcp ?Aug, 2014 Lead dog
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 21 Jun, 2014 Lead dog
with Linc
with Linc
Hidden 15 Jun, 2014 TR dog
pezzerrr 26 Dec, 2013 Lead RP
Hidden 26 Oct, 2013 TR dog
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 8 Oct, 2013 Lead dog Made some progress, got a sequence for the crux. Made it to half way through the crux before peeling off.
Made some progress, got a sequence for the crux. Made it to half way through the crux before peeling off.
quiffhanger 27 May, 2013 Lead dnf No idea how to do the crux. Wet holds provided an excuse but suspect that wasn't my only problem.
No idea how to do the crux. Wet holds provided an excuse but suspect that wasn't my only problem.
brices 6 Jan, 2013 Lead dnf Top wet and 2 moves in groove i need to figure out
Top wet and 2 moves in groove i need to figure out
Hidden 9 Nov, 2012 Lead dog
Hidden 24 Jun, 2012 Lead dnf
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 17 Feb, 2012 Lead dog
rubben 12 Nov, 2011 Lead dog Started the 8a proj. Easy climbing before and after crux, just and insanely hard few moves - 7 in total...another 4 to dial for me! And so it begins...
with Marcus O'Leary
Started the 8a proj. Easy climbing before and after crux, just and insanely hard few moves - 7 in total...another 4 to dial for me! And so it begins...
with Marcus O'Leary
Hidden 14 Oct, 2011 TR dog
dale1968 14 Oct, 2011 -
bigie bob 23 Jun, 2008 Lead RP
Hidden 3 Nov, 2007 Lead rpt
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
Hidden 27 Nov, 1999 Lead RP
34 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 14
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Repeated
Not Set