40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superb outing. Steep and varied with good gear when you need it. Start 15m right of Old Faithful, beyond a large corner, beneath an undercut buttress.
1) 5a, 18m. Climb a steep corner on the right to a ledge on its left. Continue up the tricky wall to a belay on a prow at the fault-line.
2) 5a, 22m. Steep moves gain holds above and right. Pull into a groove and continue on jugs to a ledge from where a corner leads to the top. © Rockfax

FA. Richard Crewe, Scott Titt 02/Aug/1975

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, SW Climbs - Swanage, Ultimate HVS ticklist, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes

Feedback

UserDateNotes
jtree03 3 Jan, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I thought the move up the wall to the break on pitch 1 was the scariest bit! The start of pitch 2 is exciting, with the(surprisingly) overhanging groove to follow: good holds, but tiring finding gear, although it eases pretty quickly, and the final corner is nice and steady.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I thought the move up the wall to the break on pitch 1 was the scariest bit! The start of pitch 2 is exciting, with the(surprisingly) overhanging groove to follow: good holds, but tiring finding gear, although it eases pretty quickly, and the final corner is nice and steady.
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
spidey 20 Oct, 2018 2nd O/S Good route, airy start to second pitch, all there just have to keep pulling
Good route, airy start to second pitch, all there just have to keep pulling
GeorgiePorgie1 20 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S Awesome adventure! Frist pitch felt quite bold.
with spidey
Awesome adventure! Frist pitch felt quite bold.
with spidey
Hidden 12 Sep, 2018 Lead
Stroppy 17 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S Ab-ed in on high tide so P2 only
with RKirke
Ab-ed in on high tide so P2 only
with RKirke
RKirke 17 Sep, 2016 2nd O/S
with Stroppy
with Stroppy
Chris Sansum 14 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Start of p1 steep finger jamming. Start of p2 really burly! Great route.
with Steve Collard
Start of p1 steep finger jamming. Start of p2 really burly! Great route.
with Steve Collard
riff156 14 Aug, 2016 2nd dog Unfortunately had to use a sling to do the crux move, top marks to Chris for leading it, definate airy scarey move on lead
Unfortunately had to use a sling to do the crux move, top marks to Chris for leading it, definate airy scarey move on lead
Hidden 20 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
andycash 8 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
with Daryl nayler
with Daryl nayler
Hidden 3 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S
Hidden 17 Feb, 2015 Lead rpt
elliptic 25 Jan, 2015 AltLd
with Tom R.
with Tom R.
Dave Thompson 10 Sep, 2014 Lead
with Mark Lee
with Mark Lee
rd20 7 Sep, 2014 2nd O/S
Hidden 9 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
mick1jones 5 Oct, 2013 AltLd dog Led 2nd pitch. Fell off after doing stiff start
with Rich Rogers
Led 2nd pitch. Fell off after doing stiff start
with Rich Rogers
Hidden 14 Sep, 2013 AltLd rpt
Hidden 4 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 4 Sep, 2013 Lead
Monkey_Alan 1 Sep, 2013 AltLd rpt Led P2. No hanging about with the moves off the belay, find the jugs and go!
with John Knight, Julian Prieto
Led P2. No hanging about with the moves off the belay, find the jugs and go!
with John Knight, Julian Prieto
Julian Prieto 1 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S Led P2
with John Knight, Monkey_Alan
Led P2
with John Knight, Monkey_Alan
Dan Hostford 25 May, 2013 Lead O/S
ianto ??, 2013 -
Hidden ??, 2013 -
louby 22 Sep, 2012 2nd Big move off the belay took a few goes
with chris_B
Big move off the belay took a few goes
with chris_B
chris_B 22 Sep, 2012 Lead
with louby
with louby
tobydunford 31 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
with Kirsty Kerr
bigrob 20 Aug, 2012 Lead
with harri honan
with harri honan
Hidden 5 Aug, 2012 Lead
nigel pearson 18 Dec, 2011 Lead O/S I led P2. We had to traverse in on the half height ledge from the abseil as sea too rough for P1. exciting and commiting move off belay. generally good rock above but quite bold in parts
with Robin
I led P2. We had to traverse in on the half height ledge from the abseil as sea too rough for P1. exciting and commiting move off belay. generally good rock above but quite bold in parts
with Robin
matt.jj ?Oct, 2011 AltLd
Dave Mahon ?Oct, 2011 AltLd O/S The first move of pitch 2 is nails! Feels like E1, sensational position.
with matt.jj
The first move of pitch 2 is nails! Feels like E1, sensational position.
with matt.jj
Monkey_Alan 20 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S Led P1. Powerful move off the belay!
Led P1. Powerful move off the belay!
Hidden 20 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
dickie01 31 Jul, 2011 AltLd
with Joe Heasman
with Joe Heasman
clipskipper 24 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S Stiff first pitch at the grade, but a great start to the second :-)
with Paul Davis
Stiff first pitch at the grade, but a great start to the second :-)
with Paul Davis
Graham Westbrook ?Aug, 2010 AltLd
Sophie Nunn 12 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S
Ceridwen 12 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S Me first pitch, there is no way this is a HVS 5a, I've done easier E1 5b's than this!
Me first pitch, there is no way this is a HVS 5a, I've done easier E1 5b's than this!
Hidden ?Aug, 2009 -
Hidden 22 Feb, 2009 Lead O/S
scott titt ??, 2009 -
trev_f 7 Dec, 2008 2nd O/S
with Ed Babs
with Ed Babs
Ed Babs 7 Dec, 2008 Lead O/S in one pitch - great move off ledge
with trev_f
in one pitch - great move off ledge
with trev_f
Jane Weir 27 Sep, 2008 AltLd
Richard Horn 27 Sep, 2008 AltLd O/S
Mr Tickle 20 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S Watch Out for big loose boulder half way up 2nd pitch, nice first pitch with great exposed move on start of 2nd.
with davenev
Watch Out for big loose boulder half way up 2nd pitch, nice first pitch with great exposed move on start of 2nd.
with davenev
davenev 20 Sep, 2008 2nd O/S Scary leaving the ledge!!!
Scary leaving the ledge!!!
Different Steve 13 Sep, 2008 AltLd rpt Led P1
with Simon Chandler
Led P1
with Simon Chandler
maresia 13 Sep, 2008 2nd dog The first move on the 2nd pitch is hard and steep. I ended up hanging in space and having to aid it. Rob brought down some large blocks in P2.
with Rob Scheichl
The first move on the 2nd pitch is hard and steep. I ended up hanging in space and having to aid it. Rob brought down some large blocks in P2.
with Rob Scheichl
Hidden 20 Oct, 2007 AltLd O/S
Owen W-G 8 Sep, 2007 Lead O/S Got to be 5b leaving the belay. 3* if wasn't for some dubious holds on P2.
with Ned
Got to be 5b leaving the belay. 3* if wasn't for some dubious holds on P2.
with Ned
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
mike.moss ??, 2007 AltLd O/S
brian watson ??, 2007 Lead O/S
Different Steve 25 Aug, 2006 Lead O/S Led both pitches - two refusals at the start of the top pitch before i summoned the nerve!
with Darren Lambert
Led both pitches - two refusals at the start of the top pitch before i summoned the nerve!
with Darren Lambert
Geras 5 Aug, 2006 Lead dog only 2nd HVS, I Led firts pitch cleanly, trickiy but all there. Ion had great difficulty making the first three moves to gain the grove. I dogged it too. Required a point of aid, to get over as we were lsing the light fast. I dropped gear and donated some large rocks to the sea.
with Ion
only 2nd HVS, I Led firts pitch cleanly, trickiy but all there. Ion had great difficulty making the first three moves to gain the grove. I dogged it too. Required a point of aid, to get over as we were lsing the light fast. I dropped gear and donated some large rocks to the sea.
with Ion
Marti999 ??, 2006 AltLd
bigie bob ?Jul, 2005 Lead O/S
feilx ??, 2005 -
Hidden 4 Sep, 2004 2nd O/S
pezzerrr 5 Oct, 2003 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29 Sep, 2003 AltLd O/S
cem 11 Nov, 2001 AltLd O/S Led p1
with Ian Folcard
Led p1
with Ian Folcard
Hidden ??, 2000 Lead
kylo-342 ?Oct, 1997 AltLd went up first pitch of Dragon's Teeth by mistake
with Roland, Roger
went up first pitch of Dragon's Teeth by mistake
with Roland, Roger
William Robertson ??, 1995 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
MoWalker3 26 Sep, 1993 AltLd
with Joe
with Joe
Robmwatt ??, 1990 -
steve taylor ?Oct, 1989 AltLd
with dave kilburn
with dave kilburn
JimR ??, 1983 -
Nigel Coe 12 Sep, 1982 AltLd
with Tim Dunsby
with Tim Dunsby
Falko 30 Oct, 1977 AltLd O/S
with Howard Lancashire
with Howard Lancashire
Falko 29 Oct, 1977 AltLd O/S
with Howard Lancashire
with Howard Lancashire
scott titt 2 Aug, 1975 2nd FA
with Richard Crewe
FA
with Richard Crewe
14 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 26
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 22
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set