UKC Logbook - 'Moose's Tooth'

40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A much harder way up the buttress on a choice line with excellent climbing. High in the grade.
1) 5b, 18m. Start as for The Golden Fleece, but break right along a sloping ledge to the arete. Follow this to a belay in the faultline.
2) 6a, 22m. Pull over a bulge on the left and pass an overhang above - hard. Finish up the left-hand side of the arete above. © Rockfax

FA. Crispin Waddy, C.Mullen 28.2.1986. FFA. Crispin Waddy, Pete Oxley 29.9.1986.

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User	Date		Notes
ian bryant	17 Sep, 2007	Show βeta βeta: like Matt i followed this and also found it very hard, except we stayed much closer to the arete. just before the crux i got a hands off rest knee bar on the right of the arete - and then still struggled to do the crux sequence up off the jugs on the break. i also didn't think it was very well protected (and neither did the leader). given all this i don't think it's e3 and more like e4 (i've done easier e4s!).	βeta?
Show beta βeta: like Matt i followed this and also found it very hard, except we stayed much closer to the arete. just before the crux i got a hands off rest knee bar on the right of the arete - and then still struggled to do the crux sequence up off the jugs on the break. i also didn't think it was very well protected (and neither did the leader). given all this i don't think it's e3 and more like e4 (i've done easier e4s!).
matt perks	29 Jan, 2005	Show βeta βeta: I followed the top pitch and thought it very difficult. After the overlap described as hard, we moved left, then up and back across right to finish. This was extremely sustained and more like E4 - there's gear but placing it is very strenuous. Possibly the line should go much close to the arete on the right after the overlap but this didn't look significantly easier from above. Any thoughts	βeta?
Show beta βeta: I followed the top pitch and thought it very difficult. After the overlap described as hard, we moved left, then up and back across right to finish. This was extremely sustained and more like E4 - there's gear but placing it is very strenuous. Possibly the line should go much close to the arete on the right after the overlap but this didn't look significantly easier from above. Any thoughts