Rockfax Description
One of the classics of the area, which follows an awesome line up a tapering groove that is packed with good gear and large holds. A great introduction to the big routes at Swanage. Climb the right-facing corner past a bulge at 15m into a niche. Then climb leftwards past the bulge at the fault-line to ascend the narrowing continuation groove in a very spectacular position. © Rockfax

FA. G.Smith, D.Hadlum 12.4.66 12/Apr/1966

Ticklists: WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20, West Country Climbs, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Rockfax West Country top 50, Kit Perry's 2013 Mission Statement, Orange Spot Swanage, UK Classic Corners, Ultimate HVS ticklist, SW Climbs - Swanage, South West VDiff-HVS, The V.S.+ Ticklist, High Quality Adventure routes, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes.

jimbonfire 15/Oct 2nd O/S
with Georgio
FlavioL1989 13/Oct Lead O/S
with Jenny
Connorolfe 06/Aug Lead O/S
NeilHowarth 06/Aug 2nd
with Connor Rolfe
Hidden 31/Jul Lead dog
pearson9596 08/Jul Lead rpt
with Mel, Dave Brock
onlyfoddington 08/Jul 2nd

Possibly went off route onto the arete in the middle by the cracks in the wall. I found the finish sustained.

with Mel, Michael
Hidden 03/Jul Lead
bryan61 03/Jul 2nd rpt
with sally
Anna Maykova 01/Jul Lead O/S
with Ian
Liam Ingram 01/Jul Lead O/S
with Karen Munro
EllieWoods 04/Jun 2nd rpt
petecallaghan 04/Jun Lead rpt
Guy Arnold 03/Jun Lead O/S
with Hannah
Hidden 03/Jun 2nd O/S
Elliot King LC&CC 01/Jun Lead O/S

Brilliant route somewhat sustained and intimidating route but boy what a position its all there if you look 42m of brilliance did it in one long pitch!

with Tony Flint
steuk92 21/May 2nd

First HVS, tricky bit in the middle! Was great once on belay...

mikehenesy 21/May Lead rpt

It's like the first time every time when I do that middle bit up to the ledge. Young Coxie done well, first HVS seconding for him, hoorah! Arm bars all round. I'd also got my recalcitrant Alien back via that fine Mr Finiclare, cheers Pete.

with steuk92
catrin289 13/May Lead O/S
with Martin
Caitlin 07/May Lead dog

One disappointing rest. Must remember chalk next time!

with Andrea
Hidden 06/May 2nd O/S
ricci.andrea86 ?/May Lead O/S
Lenny 15/Apr Lead O/S
with Mark W.
Hidden 08/Apr Lead
LJC 27/Mar 2nd rpt
with Herve
SuePearson 26/Mar 2nd

Fabulous climbing

with darling Dave
julesmckim 15/Mar Lead O/S

Wow! Spectacular route! Bridging above the waves way out above Rob. Exciting first route.

with Rob Smart
hervenuttall ?/Mar Lead O/S
with Luca
manwithacam 20/Feb 2nd

Pulled on thread at crux! The ignimony of it. Put me in a downer of self doubt until at least lunchtime. First route at ruckle for few years, great to be back.

with Mark Grist
The Grist 20/Feb Lead O/S
with Dan Metcalfe
bede.west 22/Jan 2nd O/S


Ed.Laver 01/Jan Lead O/S
Sam Mills ??/2017 Lead O/S
with Ellie Leigh
Hidden ??/2017 -
Ellis Bird ??/2017 AltLd O/S
Dominic Acland 29/Dec/16 2nd O/S

Deserves its classic status, really enjoyable.

petecallaghan 29/Dec/16 Lead O/S

Cracking route. I bridged almost all the way up. The top is a bit of a sting in the tail, so best to arrive feeling fresh. I ran out of hexes and big stoppers (must get more) and ended up protecting the hard top with a couple of micro cams just when a sinker number 9 would have been much appreciated

dave o 22/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Mark Littlewood
mariannekhoo 08/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Dropped all my medium/large nuts when only halfway up, but didn't feel hugely bothered by it. Had enough gear to make the rest of the route safe.

rd20 08/Oct/16 2nd rpt
RJLeish 06/Oct/16 2nd dog

Probably not very steep for most but very tiring after only climbing at Fairy Cave Quarry for the past few months.

Stanners 06/Oct/16 Lead O/S

not a bad day at work

Wine and climb 02/Oct/16 2nd O/S
Montecore 02/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Already pumped before I started so found this hard work. Also a bit disappointed by the route - think I just don't like the Rockhoppers at Swanage compared to Pembroke

with Andrew Gardner, Joris Roulleau
Neil McA 25/Sep/16 2nd O/S

Felt hard!!

with martin cooper
Martin Cooper 25/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Neil
mikehenesy 17/Sep/16 Lead rpt

Bloody hell, not very fit, had to have a word with myself, good though. The seconds were more shagged than me though! Great day out, pint in the greyhound and curry in the mahal - doesn't get much better.

Buccaneerbilly 17/Sep/16 2nd rpt
Dilwat 03/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Just keeps on coming

nickdonohue 03/Sep/16 2nd
mattprince 10/Aug/16 AltLd
with Will Graham
Hidden 06/Aug/16 2nd
Hidden 06/Aug/16 Lead dog
Hidden 30/Jul/16 Lead rpt
TomRiddelsdell 24/Jul/16 Lead rpt
Horton 24/Jul/16 2nd O/S

Sweaty into the niche (especially without a chalk bag). Nice features, big/interesting moves

mjeffery 01/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Rob
Pete Scott 30/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Led both pitches. (Used the optional belay which I set up as hanging to give John some exposure)

J5Kay 30/Jun/16 2nd O/S
Lizlet13 26/Jun/16 2nd dog
with PD
nakedave 18/Jun/16 2nd
tomhull 18/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Mike Weatherill 11/Jun/16 Lead rpt
spidey 15/May/16 Lead O/S
with Daryl
Julesthe1st 14/May/16 Lead O/S
with Pilar
mark4344 13/May/16 Lead O/S
with cheeky
cheeky 13/May/16 2nd
Francois R 08/May/16 Lead

5b. 1st seacliff climb. Splendid!

with Stephen
SenzuBean 08/May/16 Lead O/S

What an absolutely stunning climb! Thoroughly enjoyed every second of it. Gear was bomber and always easy to place. Rockfax South West gives it 5a, so I spent the whole route worried about where the 5a moves were - didn't find any at all, and barely any 4c moves. Probably a good intro HVS if you're not put off by exposure - felt just like a really long VS 4c to me.

with Andrew S, Peter
Hidden 07/May/16 Lead
robgixer 01/May/16 Lead O/S
AJM 30/Apr/16 Lead rpt

I really ought to take more QuickDraws and more big wires. Got caught in the hail just after we topped out...

mikeyjbs 17/Apr/16 Lead rpt
with Idoia
duncan 16/Apr/16 Lead rpt
with Ben Tye
Hidden 02/Apr/16 2nd O/S
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Hidden ?/Nov/15 Lead
Chris Sansum 19/Sep/15 Lead rpt
with Tabi Leask
Hidden 19/Sep/15 2nd
Graeme Hammond 30/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Becky E
Becky E 30/Aug/15 2nd O/S
kenneM 21/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Chris
tim.fairhall 17/Aug/15 2nd rpt
with Sachi
jsmcfarland 17/Aug/15 Lead O/S

My first lead at swanage. AMAZING! Endless hauling on jugs (tricky section lower down) with really good gear. What a brilliant climb, remarkable it goes at the grade really.

with Tim
Martin Bagshaw 08/Aug/15 AltLd
Katsmiff 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Lovely climb. Solid rock which was a blessing after our previous climb Tatra. Lots of bridging, plenty of rests.

Andrew Sloan 01/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Technically ok and well protected but I'd give it 5a for the steepness.

with Tim
paultaylor ?/Aug/15 AltLd rpt
with Matt Roberts, Will I Am
dpalmer1961 18/Jul/15 Lead
Hidden 09/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Paula Ryan ?/Jul/15 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/15 Lead
TomRiddelsdell 28/Jun/15 2nd β

What a great route. Although the crux is a little sweaty, the rest is top quality!

Hidden 28/Jun/15 Lead O/S
islandlynx 28/Jun/15 Lead rpt

Still greasy but better this time. Awesome route.

Jim Malo 13/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Tim
Hidden 13/Jun/15 Lead rpt
richardashe 07/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Russtygibbons 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 07/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Mark Warnett ?/Jun/15 Lead O/S

It is very good but slightly repetitive moves? There are a couple of steep pulls around the tat area.

with Andy O'Conner
afterthesend 30/May/15 2nd

Seb led. Took an hour...

andycash 16/May/15 2nd rpt
with Daryl nayler
Adam Hill 01/May/15 2nd

Out there ab in. Came off at the crux by the bulge, pumped. As I swung around the arete, saw that there was an easier way upto the ledge and scampered up. Totally pumped now I struggled up the rest of climb, pulling on gear. Hard work. Found out that the had to take the corner up past the bulge.

with Simon
chris_woodsy 12/Apr/15 2nd O/S
BenL 12/Apr/15 Lead O/S
tcn_2002 12/Apr/15 2nd
ian d f 11/Apr/15 2nd rpt
with Mark Condon, Michael P
pearson9596 11/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Mark Condon, Ian Faulkner
Sophie Nunn 04/Apr/15 2nd rpt
with Brian
philhilo 15/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Once on the lead and hauled Salty. Once jugged cleaning on the way.

with Helen E
pearson9596 14/Mar/15 2nd O/S
ian d f 14/Mar/15 Lead rpt
onlyfoddington 14/Mar/15 2nd dog

I thought I had done it all, but ran out of energy at the last.

with Michael, Ian
Shane Willis 17/Feb/15 Lead O/S
elliptic 25/Jan/15 AltLd
with Tom R.
Hidden ??/2015 -
ian bryant ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Cheese Monkey 28/Dec/14 Lead O/S
with PeteUKC
halfwaythere 28/Dec/14 2nd
with ben
Hidden 01/Nov/14 Lead dog
cdpuk 01/Nov/14 2nd O/S
timmsy 22/Oct/14 2nd

Scarey 2nd

Pero 09/Sep/14 2nd
will moy 07/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with Matt Roberts
RFWilkie 06/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Mark
Thinker01 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Lovely route - would be an interesting baptism if it was your first HVS!

Buccaneerbilly 03/Sep/14 2nd

First ever HVS, you will be alright! Shouts of "Just go for it" from the ground whilst at the crux move. yet again cacked my pants but got to the top unscathed!

with Tom Boeckx, Michael Henesy
mikehenesy 03/Sep/14 Lead
with Willy
chris_woodsy 01/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Emily 23/Aug/14 2nd O/S

Awesome route, so many massive holds and yet one of the hardest climbs I've managed to stay on, I think.

with Nick
Nick Russell 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S

It's hard to imagine a better HVS! Reminded me of Rock Idol, but I enjoyed this one more.

with Emily
Hidden 16/Aug/14 2nd
climbingpixie 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Andy
mdjb 03/Aug/14 -
Hidden 03/Aug/14 2nd rpt
mikehenesy 03/Aug/14 2nd β

Lead by Tom and seconded in a 'go for it style' by Willie. I haven't laughed so much since Thatcher died!

with Willy, Tom Boeux
nige pacer 03/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Mike Lea
Hidden 23/Jul/14 2nd dog
andy_pemberton 22/Jul/14 Lead
with Steve Gibson
islandlynx 23/Jun/14 Lead dog

so sweaty and greasy on a really hot day. pulled on tat at the top of first grove. will be back. amazing route, probably the best ive climbed on.

with Amy
AmyAmy 23/Jun/14 2nd
Alex Hallam 19/Jun/14 Lead O/S

For some reason I thought this was a big, scary, hard route. A lot of people had said its a real milestone for HVS, but broken down into constituent parts it really is just a long VS 4c. Classic route, and really enjoyed the climbing, had to remind myself to stop and place some gear. Get on it, its really not that hard.

rustaldo 19/Jun/14 2nd rpt

Still as good as I remember. Very steady all the way.

with Alex
Joemanglerocks 15/Jun/14 Lead

Led P1

TimKnight 15/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Dizz 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Conor
ciderspider 13/Jun/14 2nd dog

Took a big swing off the crux, good lead by Charley

charley 13/Jun/14 Lead O/S

My first Swanage experience.....

with Mark, Ian
MDR61 13/Jun/14 2nd rpt

First climb of the day - nice lead by Charley - big swing by Ian !

with charley
Hidden 12/Jun/14 Lead O/S
tash 12/Jun/14 2nd
with ali k
MPSBunny 26/May/14 2nd O/S

Whilst feeling pretty wretched after an inordinate amount of alcohol from the previous night. Cracking route that was steep throughout but with plenty of bridging rests.

Brannock 26/May/14 Lead O/S

Mega, big holds, loads of gear and bridging all the way up a great line.

Hidden 25/May/14 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 04/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/14 2nd rpt
mc fifi 04/May/14 Lead O/S
funsized 04/May/14 2nd
ben.meakin 04/May/14 2nd
mick1jones 03/May/14 2nd O/S
with Rich Rogers
Billg 03/May/14 2nd O/S
Duncan Campbell 03/May/14 2nd

Brilliant very sustained but you can stand in balance anywhere. Watch out for the top-out!

with Bubbles
Ash Sayers 03/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/14 Lead O/S
andycash 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Ash
Hidden 14/Apr/14 Lead O/S
will moy 09/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Nutt
Hidden 09/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Luxulyan 30/Mar/14 2nd
with Tim
tim.fairhall 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Richard
duncan 29/Mar/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 29/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Kirill 29/Mar/14 2nd rpt
timreynolds 23/Mar/14 Lead

First climb in the Ruckle - cracking!

mes32 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Felt hard for 4c. But maybe there was just a lot of it. Brilliant!

with Wilki
CurlyStevo 16/Mar/14 Lead

Really nice climb, found it low in the grade and gear friendly with tonnes of rests good enough to fully recover (if you are good with you feet / bridging). Most of the route felt a pretty relaxed affair to me although the crux gets you going. There are quite a few different ways you can do this route, even the crux can be done a few ways at not too dissimilar grades.

with Mick Ward
brices 07/Mar/14 2nd O/S

Really nice end to the day

with Remus
Hidden 07/Mar/14 Lead O/S
nickdonohue 01/Mar/14 Lead

excellent sustained climbing

Hidden 01/Mar/14 2nd O/S
cymjt ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
arandall 01/Dec/13 Lead dog

18 pieces of gear and 1 hour ten minutes on route, and three rests. not sure where it was going wrong, it goes on forever. the move up to the tat seemed to elude me too, ran out of strength and pull on the tat then took a rest. have to try again another time.

JoeCoxson 01/Dec/13 2nd

I thought it was definitely technically hard for the grade. Very sustained, but you would expect that from 42m in one pitch.

Hidden 30/Nov/13 Lead rpt
CurlyStevo ?/Nov/13 2nd

lovely climb

with paulus
waldenmatt 29/Oct/13 2nd

Split with anchor under break. 2nd both pitches

Dave Mahon 29/Oct/13 Lead O/S

In two pitches this time. The stance at the fault line was cramped. Lots of cam placements but not recommended.

with Matt Sumpster
bryan61 21/Sep/13 2nd rpt
with berny
Abi Chard 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Ian
topsyturvy 13/Sep/13 Lead

In the rain: exhausting. Relieved we both got to the top.

with Marcin
lostinmidlands 13/Sep/13 2nd dog
with tris
Huntlyfiddler 21/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 21/Aug/13 2nd
bpmclimb 21/Aug/13 Lead O/S


with Clare
Stuart Johnston 11/Aug/13 2nd O/S
adam 24 11/Aug/13 Lead
mikehenesy 08/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Finally finale fell. There was more leg shaking than an Elvis convention and I think another epocs worth of limestone was laid he took so long but the Kiwi did it! Well done, and then there were beers.

with Tim Johns
Hidden 04/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Matt77 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Owen
Tom Livingstone 01/Aug/13 2nd β
Dan Lane 01/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Great climbing, and a great situation for a HVS...steep around the overhang!

Geoffers 26/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with Tim
Hidden 25/Jul/13 2nd
MDR61 24/Jul/13 2nd rpt

What a fantastic route !

with Ben
sarpedon 20/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Strong Sophie Nunn led it.

Sophie Nunn 20/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Sarp
Luxulyan 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Tom Murrell
GPN 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Annette
net 30/Jun/13 2nd
with George
Monkey_Alan 08/Jun/13 2nd rpt
jasonpm 08/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Simon
Hidden 08/Jun/13 Lead dog
wi11 08/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Mat, Vicky Hau
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 27/May/13 Lead O/S
Nexonen 26/May/13 2nd O/S
with Phil
Lawrence Dudley 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Awesome pitch, runners everywhere

Hidden 20/Apr/13 2nd
tomB 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Juliette
Monkey_Alan 20/Apr/13 2nd rpt
Hidden 06/Apr/13 2nd O/S
petegunn 06/Apr/13 Lead
with Davina
Hidden 16/Feb/13 2nd O/S
duncan 16/Feb/13 Lead rpt
ianto ??/2013 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
mike.moss 08/Dec/12 2nd O/S
Kirill 08/Dec/12 Lead O/S
mikehenesy 20/Oct/12 Lead β

Tim set of on it but couldn't get past the bulge despite the beta I gave him about needing to go out left. Seems you need to stick right and stay in the corner - sorry Tim. Next time, and I'm sure your hex will still be there.

with Tim Johns
crispycodd 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S

As one long pitch. Fantastic position but had to concentrate, so did not really appreciate it.

LJC 07/Oct/12 2nd rpt
with Tom
tonevert 29/Sep/12 Lead
with Kevin Faux
Kevster 29/Sep/12 2nd rpt
Kevster 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Paul Eckton 26/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/12 Lead
mattyork2 20/Aug/12 2nd

Went into to do this the previous evening with a bit too much psyche. Both got to the bottom and both realised we had abbed without a half rope. Big scary free hanging prussik session out. Idiots. The got involved in helping some other lads haul their mate out of the Boulder Ruckle on their ab rope. Next day found the climb to be Proper Ruckle stuff. Thuggy on massive holds. Good lead by Johnny this.

with Johnny Richard
Hidden 10/Aug/12 2nd
Anthony Dixon 04/Aug/12 Lead
Hidden 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S
w-watson 22/Jul/12 Lead β
Hidden 22/Jul/12 2nd rpt
Monkey_Alan 15/Jul/12 Lead rpt

Hard to believe I hadn't lead this before - In fact only climbed once, and that was back in 2010! Nothing too hard, although it starts to feel that way as the arms give out towards the top.

kelliroberts3 01/Jul/12 2nd
with merlin march, Peter Rigby
Pete Rigby 01/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Kelli Roberts
WalnutHorse 30/Jun/12 Lead β
Stroppy 19/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Awesome climbing, seemed to go on forever.

with Josh Brown
mikehenesy 17/Jun/12 2nd

Followed Chris up, he headed out left at the buldge instead of sticking to the less likely corner crack. big seas, cracking position!

with Chris Lodge
Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead rpt
paultaylor 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S
will moy 02/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with paul taylor
Ali.B 30/May/12 Lead O/S

Keeps coming at you :-)

with PeterRobers
Paul-Michael 27/May/12 2nd O/S

easy up to the first bulge then sustained, a wakeup call, get finger strenght up!

Kris suriyo 24/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/May/12 Lead O/S
3 Names 18/May/12 Lead O/S
with Ed Bulman
jon_gill1 06/May/12 Lead O/S

fantastic climb but quite exposed and nerve racking!chris managed to gash his finger quite deeply and then bash his nut key into his head so topped out with blood everywhere!good effort lad,concentrate on the climb next time!haha

with chris Lyness
Alex the Alex ?/May/12 AltLd
Hidden 14/Apr/12 Lead O/S
tobydunford 14/Apr/12 2nd rpt
with Dave Ripley
metal arms 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
MDR61 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S

What a route !!! Looks really intimidating, but once you get going the jugs and gear keep flowing ! Most all of the first section can be bridged (taking all the strain off the arms). Couple of strenuous moves above the tat. Save a bit of strength for the top groove, as whilst juggy it's still steep. Both pegs are still in situ (although quite rusty).

with LukeyG
harold walmsley 02/Apr/12 2nd rpt

Nice and dry this time. Felt like the given grade

with Paul Evans
berndl 17/Mar/12 2nd
Ian JL ??/2012 -
clams ??/2012 2nd

Perhaps the scariest HVS I've seconded

with PR&K
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Bob Peters ??/2012 -

Topped out in the dark...

with Dad
nigel pearson 20/Nov/11 Lead O/S

always wanted to do this route. really good climbing and well protected.

with Robin
louby 06/Nov/11 2nd
chris_B 06/Nov/11 Lead
Hidden 22/Oct/11 Lead rpt
mikehenesy 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S

cracking sunny day(to start with) with Stubsey as a stirling second ( I couldn't hear his curses). Done the old fashioned way sans chalk. forgot my bag and the freak Stubbs doesn't use it, soldiered on regardless. A grand route but not as intimidating as I thought and sparing use of pro even from me!

with Carl Stubbs
carl_123 14/Oct/11 2nd O/S

nice route, long, pumpy but with buckets of gear.

matt.jj ?/Oct/11 Lead
Dave Mahon ?/Oct/11 2nd
halfwaythere 29/Aug/11 AltLd β

led second pitch-belayed six feet above the break. My third ascent; still great I thought.

with alex
jtree03 19/Aug/11 Lead
with rob, dazza
Hidden 14/Aug/11 2nd
csd23 ?/Aug/11 2nd

Great atmosphere, steep and juggy. Avoid if conditions are damp

with Matt Burrows
Julian Prieto 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
risby 31/Jul/11 2nd O/S
rd20 15/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Patrick
Hidden 04/Jul/11 2nd
nickstephens 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/11 Lead dog
Dieter Z ?/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with benny
wi11 27/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with Frank C
james.pilbeam 27/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/11 2nd rpt
Hidden ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/May/11 Lead rpt
Helen Gibson 01/May/11 Lead

always good to climb this one.

Helen Gibson 01/May/11 Lead
LJC 09/Apr/11 2nd rpt
ben.richards 09/Apr/11 Lead rpt

After seconding this route a few weeks back for Luca's first HVS 5a lead, I HAD to come back and lead it myself! Amazing rock, gear, and climbing.

jezb1 07/Apr/11 2nd

Must get round to leading this. Technically very straight forward, but it just keeps on coming!

Hidden 29/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Sophie Nunn 27/Mar/11 2nd rpt
with Alex
AlexD 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Sophie
LJC 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Brilliant climbing all the way.

ben.richards 26/Mar/11 2nd O/S
ian d f 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Emmanuel
rustaldo 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S

awsome. route.

with Uncle Dave
Matt Smith 12/Mar/11 2nd O/S

First climb at Boulder Ruckle and it was pumpy !!!!! Good fun though.

Hidden 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S
John Tanner 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Denoir 05/Mar/11 2nd
nickdunn 05/Mar/11 Lead
Chris Sansum 05/Mar/11 2nd O/S

Beautiful route. 4c & good gear all the way, but HVS is reasonable on the grounds of the intimidation level of the route.

with Gary Lewin
halfwaythere 09/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

did it in 2 pitches led from the overhanging arete

Hidden ??/2011 AltLd
LukeyG ??/2011 -
recon ??/2011 2nd
with benny b
Hidden 23/Nov/10 Lead O/S
halfwaythere ?/Nov/10 Lead

Led second half

Different Steve 25/Sep/10 Lead rpt
with Nick
Hidden 17/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S
gibsond 04/Sep/10 2nd rpt

Very sustained climbing all the way up. Just keeps coming!!!

haydng 04/Sep/10 Lead rpt
with John
Andre Clarke 04/Sep/10 Lead dog

Fantastic climb with loads of gear. The length of the route does take it's toil on the arms

Hidden ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Alaric 26/Jul/10 Lead rpt

Sixth time on this (but first time leading it again since 2004 - felt comfortable except for the crux). Excellent route everytime.

with Ed
Ed Griffin 26/Jul/10 2nd dog

I did rest on some in situ piece of rope so not a clean onsight.

with Alaric
Gazzawatson 11/Jul/10 2nd
Gazzawatson 11/Jul/10 2nd
RobRock84 10/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Robin neath
brian watson 10/Jul/10 Lead rpt
saz_b 10/Jul/10 Lead dog

What a route! Looks very imposing from below, rested at crux on gear. Calve muscles sore from bridging!

with Dugald
Hidden 10/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Jul/10 Lead rpt
colkurtz ?/Jul/10 Lead dnf
with Robb
Hidden 16/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
davewing 13/Jun/10 2nd
with Lee
petitflous05 13/Jun/10 2nd
clipskipper 13/Jun/10 Lead β

Lovely route

with Dave Wing
WalnutHorse 12/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Martin Davies 09/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Awesome route, bit greasy at half way but great!

with Tom Smart
Rhys Jones 04/Jun/10 -
Bram 04/Jun/10 2nd

Rhys Jones

djking1983 04/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Good route quite steep and pumpy

ASchwirtz 23/May/10 Lead O/S
with Tim Wong
Hidden 23/May/10 2nd rpt
eroica64 22/May/10 2nd
with Rehan, Peter Roberts
Hidden 04/May/10 Lead O/S
The Ivanator 03/May/10 2nd O/S

Wow! Looks scary as hell, but is jugtastic. Steep and satisfying.

with Stewart
dan gibson 27/Apr/10 Lead rpt
with marvin
MarkRyder 07/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with James P
jamespilgrim 07/Apr/10 2nd O/S

First route at the Ruckle

with Mark
manwithacam 14/Mar/10 2nd

enjoyed doing this again, felt harder than first time unfortunately

with Joris
Joris.Roulleau 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S

a bit tough for the first lead of the season. Didn't like the unstable-looking rocks at the top. the rest is great though.

Monkey_Alan 30/Jan/10 2nd
uncontrollable 30/Jan/10 Lead O/S
with Alan B
Hidden ??/2010 -
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
Hidden 11/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
critchlg 18/Oct/09 2nd rpt

Still can't get into that corner properly

with simon4
Simon4 18/Oct/09 -

Well I thought I had better show that I do occasionally climb routes! Never very hard, but very exposed and out there.

with Gavin C
RCrockford 10/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Jonah
Geoffers 02/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Tim
Hidden 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/09 2nd O/S
LoopyLou 12/Sep/09 Lead

Great line, good gear, never desperate, full of interest and nice moves. Comparable to Hell's Kitchen at FairHead?

with Roslyn
givemetea 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Louisa
Andy Chubb 29/Aug/09 2nd
with Nick Gregory
Dave Mahon ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S

My first proper HVS. Awesome!

with Brian Mead
Sophie Nunn 14/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Different Steve 10/Jul/09 Lead rpt
with Clare
mattkemp70 ?/Jul/09 2nd
with Westy
Graham Westbrook ?/Jul/09 Lead
Ybot Htulk ?/Jul/09 2nd
with Mike
Ceridwen 18/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Phil
Ceridwen 18/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Phil
Hidden 13/Jun/09 2nd rpt
Hidden 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S
sgl 04/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Jez
jezb1 04/Jun/09 2nd

Awesome, but tiring!

Andy Peak 1 02/Jun/09 -

Took a nice hands of rest at the top of the second groov as i was starting to jibber slitly. recomposed my self and led clenley

with Pete
Hidden 20/May/09 Lead O/S
mark89 20/May/09 AltLd O/S
garywong 10/May/09 2nd rpt
Hidden 04/May/09 2nd
Mr Tickle 02/May/09 Lead O/S

Great climb, big jugs!

with Anthony Ray
The_Boy_ODwyer 01/Apr/09 Lead O/S

First big cliff climb. Amazing...

with Rob
robertporter 01/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Feb/09 2nd O/S
georgeevans88 ?/Jan/09 2nd
with Harry
georgeevans88 ?/Jan/09 2nd
with Harry
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
paulh1967 ??/2009 -
mutt ??/2009 -
with Naomi Moran
Hidden ??/2009 -
critchlg 15/Nov/08 2nd dog
Hidden 15/Nov/08 Lead O/S
Alaric 12/Oct/08 2nd
garywong 12/Oct/08 Lead β

My first HVS. Loved it!

Scott McRae 28/Sep/08 2nd O/S

Amazing route, requires sustained effort and it doesn't give up to the very end.

with Tim Gledhill
Hidden 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/08 Lead dog
Matt Bennett 28/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Mike Weatherill ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/May/08 2nd O/S
MontyH 19/May/08 Lead O/S

got to be one of the best routes I have climbed at Swanage.

with Paul Milton
RMG 11/May/08 2nd
with haydng
haydng 11/May/08 Lead rpt
with Rachel
tebs 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S

great climb, easy moves, but lots of them.

with Mike
Will Homoky 10/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Tom Hindson
Hidden 05/Apr/08 Lead O/S
w.pettet-smith 24/Mar/08 2nd

Highest climb yet!fantastic stuff

with david coley
manwithacam 24/Mar/08 Lead O/S

bridge-tastic. Keeps on coming right to the top.

with Alex
jamie ward 08/Feb/08 2nd
with Marcus Harvey
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 04/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S
tobydunford 06/Oct/07 Lead O/S
LiLaMont 06/Oct/07 2nd β
tonanf ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S

good climbing for the grade (sustained effort required)

with graham
Richard Horn 01/Sep/07 Lead O/S
clipskipper 11/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Excellent route and worth the stars. Lots of holds and lots of gear. Big hexes would be an advantage.

with Roger H Smith
Katex 09/Aug/07 2nd
with Dan
andy jennings ?/Aug/07 2nd O/S
riddle ?/Aug/07 2nd
with Lee UKC!
Ed Babs 31/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Kate
steve gould 17/Jun/07 2nd
Oliver Sherman 17/Jun/07 Lead O/S
jchenoweth 02/Jun/07 2nd O/S

Far too easy to be a HVS

with Fat Alan
Hidden 02/Jun/07 2nd O/S
Neil Adams 02/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Rob
gonggashan ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Dan Perrott
mikelaing ?/Jun/07 Lead

Fell off on the dusty finishing move and in falling ripped the peg that was 15 foot from the top, wires beneath held though.

with Richard Gilgar
Matt Shepherd 10/May/07 Lead O/S
Different Steve 04/May/07 2nd rpt
with Guy Reid
AJM ?/May/07 Lead O/S

Realy enjoyed it, good line with interest all the way up.

with Mike Moss
Hidden 30/Apr/07 2nd
Hidden 28/Apr/07 Lead O/S
cem 28/Apr/07 Lead rpt
with Joel Trott
Hidden 22/Apr/07 Lead
Chad123 08/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

Classic bridging groove, with jugs all the way, typical character building top out though!

with Emily
Hidden 06/Apr/07 Lead
Strange little creature 17/Mar/07 2nd O/S
with Scott Cramp
Bob M 06/Feb/07 2nd
Matt Shepherd 10/Jan/07 Lead O/S
jamieevans ??/2007 Lead
jake-jones ??/2007 Lead O/S
with rob gajland
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
tonanf ??/2007 Lead O/S
with PSue
mike.moss ??/2007 Lead O/S
Rob Pitt ??/2007 Lead
Hidden 19/Nov/06 2nd
Jim Vach ?/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with Paul Winder
Ramon Marin 07/Oct/06 2nd O/S
with Salomon Fernandez
Hidden 29/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Sep/06 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Aug/06 Lead
Dave Kerr 26/Jul/06 Lead
with Jill Kerr
trevor macalonan 18/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Tim
Hidden 18/Jun/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/May/06 2nd O/S
dan gibson 28/May/06 2nd rpt
with AJ
Hidden 26/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Piers Harley 26/Apr/06 2nd

just keeps on coming at you!!

with Paul Winder
beanfingers 22/Apr/06 Lead O/S

hard very swanage

with the mole
dan gibson 23/Mar/06 Lead O/S
with jamie evans
AJ007 ?/Mar/06 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 -
feeko ??/2006 -
Jon Greengrass ??/2006 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/2006 AltLd
chrisbevins ??/2006 Lead O/S
ChrisBrooke 19/Nov/05 AltLd O/S
with John Inkpen
bigie bob ?/Nov/05 Lead O/S
Kyuzo 14/Oct/05 AltLd
with Markus Roggen
Hidden ?/Sep/05 Lead
Hedley 21/Aug/05 2nd dog
with Reuben
Hidden ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Ramon Marin 20/May/05 Lead O/S
with Ben Gilbert
Owen W-G 02/May/05 Lead O/S
with Andrew
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
feilx ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
Jason Gotel ?/Aug/04 Lead
with Pippa Lansdown
duncan 26/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Alaric 19/Jun/04 Lead rpt

Paul gave it his best shot but eventually backed off, so we swapped round and I led - felt a little easier this second time around.

with Paul Smyth
Dave Reeve ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Tony Payne
benjino ?/Jan/04 -
Different Steve ??/2004 Lead O/S
brian watson ??/2004 Lead rpt
Boxy 11/Oct/03 Lead O/S
with Mick
charlesmfrench 13/Sep/03 2nd O/S
with Caroline Waterhouse, Ian Waterhouse
EllieWoods 26/May/03 2nd O/S
with Ian Denton
Alaric 29/Mar/03 Lead O/S

Took forever, laced but led cleanly. Just about the most knackered I have ever been on reaching the top. I had no grip left in my fingers whatsoever. Later we couldn't retrieve the ab rope from Marmolata butress. The metal swaging had stuck. Syd abd down, and then shunted all the way back up.

with Syd F
pezzerrr 24/Feb/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2003 AltLd
JasonG ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Barry Donovan
Hidden ?/Oct/02 2nd rpt
Alaric 29/Sep/02 2nd O/S
with Paul L
Hidden 31/Aug/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/02 Lead
furry 27/Aug/02 2nd
with Phil B
sims 07/Jul/02 2nd O/S
with Nick
Hidden ?/Jun/02 Lead
Paul L ?/Apr/02 Lead
Rob Kinsey ??/2002 -
with JamesR
Hidden 04/Sep/01 2nd
Stone Muppet ??/2001 -
andybenham ??/2001 -
Gareth 04/Jun/00 Lead dog
with Andrew
aged_ape ?/Jun/00 -
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 2nd
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
alan moore ??/2000 -

Pulled on the sling on the chock stone. Any amount of bridging did not relieve strain on the arms!

Ally Smith ?/Nov/99 Lead O/S

Remember this was draining to lead and that my little Peugeot 205 died on the way back to Bristol.

with Kathryn
Hidden 17/Oct/99 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/99 Lead O/S
cem 31/May/99 Lead O/S
with Jamie Dumas
akamini ?/May/99 Lead
Hidden 14/Mar/99 Lead
DafSWMC ?/Feb/99 Lead O/S
Sime64 ??/1999 2nd O/S

Falling rocks and Steve leader fall

with Steve M
andyfeds 20/Sep/98 Lead

Hard. I was very glad to find an old sling to clip quickly.

with Andy C
Bob M 30/May/98 Lead

Took a very exposed stance half way.

with Jill Stevens
Hidden 26/Apr/98 Lead O/S
Ian Jones ??/1998 Lead O/S
with Karen Ghiselli
mikej 07/Sep/97 2nd
with Nick Salmon
five ?/Sep/97 Lead dog
with PW
craig h 02/Aug/97 2nd O/S
with Janet Hannah
Budge 12/Apr/97 Lead O/S
with Mike Oates
tomkhoward ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Andy Plumb
Guy ??/1997 -
Adrian Daniels 06/Jul/96 2nd
with John Parrott
lost.arrow 07/Apr/96 Lead
with Anne Mold
mark schramm ??/1996 -
mikej 27/Sep/95 Lead
with Mike Byles
colin milton 27/Aug/95 Lead
with eric milton
kjacks ?/Aug/95 Lead

Exciting abseil to start. Brilliant climbing, never too hard but sustained at a good standard. Take at least 50m rope so you can watch your second - when you can see him!

with Pat Thomas
Hidden ?/Apr/95 -
William Robertson ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden ??/1995 Lead
TonyF 16/Oct/94 AltLd O/S
with Pete Scott
chris sm 23/Jun/94 2nd O/S
with Andy Gill
Roget 30/Mar/94 Lead O/S
with jon
Mark Kemball 20/Aug/93 Lead
with Alison Dorey
Hidden 09/Jun/93 2nd
Hidden 10/Apr/93 Lead
Okecroak 09/Aug/92 AltLd O/S
with M Mercy
sdht ?/Jun/92 2nd O/S
with Dave Ward
kp64zl ?/May/92 2nd
with Giles, Jason M
MoWalker3 06/Sep/91 AltLd
with Joe
Hidden ?/Jul/91 Lead O/S
clark alston ?/Jan/90 Lead O/S

Another mega line.

with Mark Courtiour
Robmwatt ??/1990 -
Norman_P_W ??/1990 -
Chris Ebbutt ??/1990 Lead
Hidden 31/May/89 Lead
Pete Nugent 25/Mar/89 Lead
steve taylor ?/Jul/88 2nd
with Martin Stansbury
Dave Musgrove 05/Mar/88 Lead
with David
tapley 09/Aug/87 Lead O/S
with Alison Tapley
RichardMc 03/May/87 Lead O/S
with Jon Clifford-Smith
Nigel Coe ??/1986 -
with Brian Wyvill
Hidden ??/1986 Lead O/S
Bullybones ?/Oct/85 Lead
JamieAyres ?/Jun/85 2nd O/S

tight rope, probably..

Hidden ??/1985 -
ill_bill ??/1985 2nd
with Steve Newman
GuyM ??/1985 -
Richard Weller 02/Sep/84 Lead
with Jerry Luntley
Russell Lovett 18/Feb/84 Lead O/S

Great climb. Now getting steady at HVS.

with Tim Freeman
Nigel Coe 13/Nov/83 Lead
with Norman Wright
The Reaper 03/Jul/83 Lead O/S
jon 02/Dec/82 Lead
with H
Steve Woollard ??/1981 Lead
Nigel Coe 08/Jun/80 2nd
with Robin Wilson
Nigel Coe 06/May/79 Lead
with John Walmsley
Chris Terrey ?/Jun/78 Lead
with Gerry Dunford
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 155
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 153
Votes cast 143
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set