Restricted Access
The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
A gnarly first pitch leads to fine and varied climbing on the east face of the buttress.
1) 5c, 12m. Start as for the last route then climb a thin crack with difficulty to a large ledge on the seaward face.
2) 5b, 15m. Traverse around the corner to a groove leading to the faultline. Traverse right again to a second groove which leads onto a ledge. Belay in the corner.
3) 5b, 15m. Step left out onto the wall where a lovely flake system leads to the top. © Rockfax
FA. G.Smith, Richard Crewe 2.6.1973. FFA. George Hounsome, Scott Titt 20.11.1977.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ian bryant | 27 May, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: 3 great pitches. first pitch has great technical climbing and 2nd has a short section of committing 5c. 3rd pitch almost gave me cramp in my biceps! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: 3 great pitches. first pitch has great technical climbing and 2nd has a short section of committing 5c. 3rd pitch almost gave me cramp in my biceps! |
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| psicobloc | 24 Apr, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Good route, with an excellent and sustained first pitch shame it’s only 10m long! Possibly a bit soft for e3, I thought the first pitch was pretty tricky but then I don’t often climb at this grade. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Good route, with an excellent and sustained first pitch shame it’s only 10m long! Possibly a bit soft for e3, I thought the first pitch was pretty tricky but then I don’t often climb at this grade. |
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| Adam Lincoln | 24 Apr, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Very soft at E3 | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Very soft at E3 |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Boulder Ruckle
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Octopuss Weed
Grade: E3 6a ***
(Cave Hole)