UKC

Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

36m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Good climbing up the prow, but there are some serious moves.
1) 6a, 18m. Climb just right of the arete then step left and up a hanging groove to a short slab (optional stance as for Marmolata Buttress). Continue up the arete to belay on Tatra.
2) 6a, 22m. Ascend the arete on the right, past a peg, direct to the top in a superb position. © Rockfax

FA. George Hounsome, Pete Finklaire 31.3.1979. Second ascent by Dave Cuthbertson in 1979 without any pegs because he didn?t know any were needed! Direct by Pete Oxley 1986.

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Route of Interest
..and Captain Blood's Cavern

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Fisherman's Ledge)

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