Rockfax Description
A hugely impressive route with two contrasting pitches. If the second falls off the top wall they will land in Brittany! Start beneath the big leaning cracks left of the groove of Buccaneer.
1) 5b, 20m. Head up the cracks in the left wall and thug to the faultline, passing a large poised block. Belay on the left.
2) 6a, 25m. Climb a curving crack on the left to a niche. Gain the roof then move out left with difficulty to reach the sensational wall above. Move up and left to an exit corner as for Sinbad. © Rockfax
FA. Brian Snell, Richard Crewe, T.Tanswell 8.2.1975. FFA. Arni Strapcans, Gordon Jenkin 1.1979.
Ticklists
Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Dorset Trad Top 50 (Rockfax 2012)
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ian bryant | 12 Mar, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Interesting comments and votes here; didn't feel like 6a to me either (thankfully!) but it was hard enough to commit to blind holds over the roof (good rest before doing so though). 1st pitch deceptively hard but a great belay ledge. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Interesting comments and votes here; didn't feel like 6a to me either (thankfully!) but it was hard enough to commit to blind holds over the roof (good rest before doing so though). 1st pitch deceptively hard but a great belay ledge. |
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| psicobloc | 22 Jan, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Excellent route, did it in one long pitch (and got a lot of drag) | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Excellent route, did it in one long pitch (and got a lot of drag) |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Boulder Ruckle
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Ocean Boulevard
Grade: E3 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)