25m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Stunning positions, excellent rock and sound protection.
You can't go wrong - or can you? For the best experience, wait until it is in good condition and has had a bit of sun on it.
1) 5b, 5m. Traverse right along the fault-line, or drop down to sea level and back up, to a sloping ledge beneath the roofs.
2) 5b, 20m. Climb the intimidating roofed corner and the stamina draining groove above to the top. © Rockfax

FA. Richard Crewe, Tim Dunsby 11/Aug/1974

Ticklists

Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Swanage wild pumpfests, Rockfax West Country top 50, Ultimate E2 ticklist, SW Climbs - Swanage, Dorset weekender, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Chad123 9 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Did this today and have to agree that it is worth E2 for the traverse and the strenuous bulges too, but has good rest points. Very intimidating for your average HVS/E1 leader!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Did this today and have to agree that it is worth E2 for the traverse and the strenuous bulges too, but has good rest points. Very intimidating for your average HVS/E1 leader!
phantom whistler 27 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed Mars in the dark - this was not intentional, my leader took a long time - there are copious handholds, I could make them out every time the lighthouse beam swung inland and illuminated the chalk marks - I have no idea if there are footholds? I struggle to second 5b in broad daylight.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Climbed Mars in the dark - this was not intentional, my leader took a long time - there are copious handholds, I could make them out every time the lighthouse beam swung inland and illuminated the chalk marks - I have no idea if there are footholds? I struggle to second 5b in broad daylight.
purple sue 11 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Echo the last comment re: feeling beaten up. I did it some years ago now as an early E1 (was considering it as a first E1 as it was graded E1 5a - low in the grade and all that) but glad I'd had a few other E1 s under my belt before I did this one. We did an HVS in the Ruckle afterwards and it felt like a walk in the park in comparison! A fantastic experience though..
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Echo the last comment re: feeling beaten up. I did it some years ago now as an early E1 (was considering it as a first E1 as it was graded E1 5a - low in the grade and all that) but glad I'd had a few other E1 s under my belt before I did this one. We did an HVS in the Ruckle afterwards and it felt like a walk in the park in comparison! A fantastic experience though..
El Greyo 18 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Superb route. I think that going round the first overhang is 5b. I don't think it's E2 material though as it's well protected and you can have many rests. It's a bloody good struggle. I think we were lucky as it was only a little damp when we did it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb route. I think that going round the first overhang is 5b. I don't think it's E2 material though as it's well protected and you can have many rests. It's a bloody good struggle. I think we were lucky as it was only a little damp when we did it.
GrahamD 4 Jun, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: I actually thought that the grade E1 5A was about as accurate as you could get with this route. The moves are certainly 'strange' and intimidating, but not hard in the execution. Gear is good and frequent so I don't see why the route should be higher than E1 (E1 is about as hard as I climb and it wasn't my toughest lead by a long way). I did it in one pitch and it was dry.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I actually thought that the grade E1 5A was about as accurate as you could get with this route. The moves are certainly 'strange' and intimidating, but not hard in the execution. Gear is good and frequent so I don't see why the route should be higher than E1 (E1 is about as hard as I climb and it wasn't my toughest lead by a long way). I did it in one pitch and it was dry.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Lynnliu 30 Jun 2nd dog The most intimidating E2 I have seconded. Brutal and scary. The traverse P1 is slippery and the relentless roofs one after another just made the whole experience more terrifying. Had to pull on gear as worried about falling and not able to pull back onto the rock again due to the overhanging angle. Never again!
The most intimidating E2 I have seconded. Brutal and scary. The traverse P1 is slippery and the relentless roofs one after another just made the whole experience more terrifying. Had to pull on gear as worried about falling and not able to pull back onto the rock again due to the overhanging angle. Never again!
Bruise Apprentice 30 Jun Lead O/S Oh my god.
with Lynnliu
Oh my god.
with Lynnliu
Hidden 4 May Lead
tobydunford 25 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
with Poole Alex
with Poole Alex
ClimbingAlex 25 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S Wild, even with a top rope - soooo much space below you all the way. Good rests and lots of good bridging in between sequences between the roofs. Finishing groove also felt long. Proper calf pumper!
Wild, even with a top rope - soooo much space below you all the way. Good rests and lots of good bridging in between sequences between the roofs. Finishing groove also felt long. Proper calf pumper!
Hidden 26 Jul, 2018 Lead
Hidden 26 Jul, 2018 AltLd
JendeHoxar 21 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 21 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Absolute goldmine of swag. Extracted 6 newish nuts of different sizes on lead and filled some rare gaps in quite a few of my swag sets! A bit more pumpy that it should have been... Worth it!
Absolute goldmine of swag. Extracted 6 newish nuts of different sizes on lead and filled some rare gaps in quite a few of my swag sets! A bit more pumpy that it should have been... Worth it!
tclewis 19 Jul, 2018 Lead dog Absolutely wild, memorable experience so annoyed I pulled on gear. Amazing that it was originally graded HVS, felt hard for E2! Physically and mentally destroyed by the time I topped out. Massive battle from Tom getting up it on the second, with no chalk and 25 degrees. Mega mega route, what an adventure.
with Tom Alford
Absolutely wild, memorable experience so annoyed I pulled on gear. Amazing that it was originally graded HVS, felt hard for E2! Physically and mentally destroyed by the time I topped out. Massive battle from Tom getting up it on the second, with no chalk and 25 degrees. Mega mega route, what an adventure.
with Tom Alford
Hidden 19 Jul, 2018 AltLd dog
paultaylor 13 Jul, 2018 2nd Friday adventure
Friday adventure
Climber_Tim 6 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
katiep 4 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Whole body workout. Felt that many years of squirming up VDiffs helped in jamming myself up this!
Whole body workout. Felt that many years of squirming up VDiffs helped in jamming myself up this!
Hidden 28 May, 2018 AltLd dog
mutt 28 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Very wet!
with Sue
Very wet!
with Sue
Mark Reeves 9 May, 2018 2nd O/S
Rob Houston ??, 2018 -
nimajneb ?May, 2017 Lead O/S
gem_stone12 ?May, 2017 2nd O/S
ricci.andrea86 8 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S abseiled all the way to the the bottom of the Zawn. incredible atmosphere down there. good fight to emerge.
abseiled all the way to the the bottom of the Zawn. incredible atmosphere down there. good fight to emerge.
Ellis Bird ??, 2017 Lead O/S
AlexD 19 May, 2016 Lead RP
with Ed Babs
with Ed Babs
Bristoldave 28 Apr, 2016 2nd O/S
Cheese Monkey 28 Apr, 2016 AltLd O/S Wild! Led P2. Classic Swanage steepness, full blown leg pump from the decent bridging rests after every roof
Wild! Led P2. Classic Swanage steepness, full blown leg pump from the decent bridging rests after every roof
Hidden 2 Apr, 2016 2nd rpt
AJ007 2 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
ricci.andrea86 ??, 2016 -
thomas108 ??, 2016 -
stevoland 21 Jul, 2015 AltLd dog Brutal. Fell seconding the main pitch
Brutal. Fell seconding the main pitch
Sam Head 22 Apr, 2015 2nd dog
Graham Westbrook 22 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S Fantastic route! Hard work all the way. Still a bit greasy at the bottom so it made the start harder.
Fantastic route! Hard work all the way. Still a bit greasy at the bottom so it made the start harder.
ian bryant ??, 2015 -
jacobjlloyd 28 Oct, 2014 2nd rpt Still bleeding hard!
with Andrea R
Still bleeding hard!
with Andrea R
ian d f 3 Jul, 2014 AltLd dog Led P1. P2 was very greasy, which detracted from the route and made it quite difficult.
with Paul K
Led P1. P2 was very greasy, which detracted from the route and made it quite difficult.
with Paul K
Hidden 17 May, 2014 2nd dog
Misha 17 May, 2014 Lead O/S It was wet, so a memorable experience! Tricky diagonal ab in down the HVS line into a hanging stance - a proper sea cliff experience. The corner was wet but I fancied a challenge. I opted for the traverse, which was wet in places and hence pretty tricky, fortunately there was some gear. The corner was slimy wet to start with and pretty evil looking. Painful jams, both knees on and hidden thank-god hold got me over the first overhang, which was the crux, possible because it was the wettest! It gradually got less wet but was still damp and greasy until the top third. Some great positions - bridging out into space, back and footing and general weird contortions. Couple of hands off rests as well. Interest was maintained all the way but it got easier as it got drier! Never disperate apart from that first overhang but fairly hard in the conditions. E2 would probably be fair in the dry. When wet, it's an E2 that requires E3/4 ability! Sue got cold hands and had to fight before peeling off just before it got easier going into the final groove. This was the day of the van breakdown - doing this definitely salvaged the day!
It was wet, so a memorable experience! Tricky diagonal ab in down the HVS line into a hanging stance - a proper sea cliff experience. The corner was wet but I fancied a challenge. I opted for the traverse, which was wet in places and hence pretty tricky, fortunately there was some gear. The corner was slimy wet to start with and pretty evil looking. Painful jams, both knees on and hidden thank-god hold got me over the first overhang, which was the crux, possible because it was the wettest! It gradually got less wet but was still damp and greasy until the top third. Some great positions - bridging out into space, back and footing and general weird contortions. Couple of hands off rests as well. Interest was maintained all the way but it got easier as it got drier! Never disperate apart from that first overhang but fairly hard in the conditions. E2 would probably be fair in the dry. When wet, it's an E2 that requires E3/4 ability! Sue got cold hands and had to fight before peeling off just before it got easier going into the final groove. This was the day of the van breakdown - doing this definitely salvaged the day!
Frank the Husky ??, 2014 -
Sophie Nunn 29 Jun, 2013 AltLd rpt P1
P1
Luxulyan 29 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S All over mind/body epic, a real struggle. Awesome!
All over mind/body epic, a real struggle. Awesome!
Didymus 5 Jun, 2013 2nd dog 19 years on ... and another desperate struggle! Mars 2, Jon 0.
19 years on ... and another desperate struggle! Mars 2, Jon 0.
richiebongo 5 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
with Jon Didymus
with Jon Didymus
ianto ??, 2013 -
Kevster 19 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
tonevert 18 Aug, 2012 2nd
with Kevin Faux
with Kevin Faux
Dave Cundy ?Aug, 2012 2nd rpt
with Christian Saxtoft, Arwel Roberts
with Christian Saxtoft, Arwel Roberts
PAJames ??, 2012 -
Jim Slater 23 Apr, 2011 2nd O/S Bloody terrifying!
with Trevor Wilson
Bloody terrifying!
with Trevor Wilson
steveb2006 8 Apr, 2011 Lead Atmospheric and committing. Very damp in roof. Great climb
with Ian Cartwright
Atmospheric and committing. Very damp in roof. Great climb
with Ian Cartwright
Tim M ??, 2011 Lead O/S
AlexD 25 Oct, 2010 AltLd dog immense! arms gave out seconding main pitch, most knackering route i have EVER been on!
immense! arms gave out seconding main pitch, most knackering route i have EVER been on!
Sophie Nunn 25 Oct, 2010 AltLd O/S
with AlexD
with AlexD
Hidden 12 Jul, 2010 Lead
colkurtz ?Jul, 2010 2nd
with Robb
with Robb
Ed Babs 12 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S And second with AlexD 19 May 2016. & 2nd with Vic 2018-05-19
And second with AlexD 19 May 2016. & 2nd with Vic 2018-05-19
Hidden 12 Jun, 2010 AltLd
Hidden 31 Jan, 2010 Lead O/S
Ceridwen 13 Sep, 2009 2nd O/S Wow! Amazing, the most mental second I have ever done!! Can't believe it used to be a HVS??!!
with Uber Mike
Wow! Amazing, the most mental second I have ever done!! Can't believe it used to be a HVS??!!
with Uber Mike
Hidden 22 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 9 Aug, 2009 2nd
jacobjlloyd 5 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S First E2! Total epic when John fell off and learned to prussik alone in the void, the waves to loud for communicating, the rope over my leg. Lost the first few pages of my guidebook to the sea. Nearly went horribly wrong at the start, as I neglected to swing as I abseiled in, but managed to knot the end of the rope and throw it improbably into a crack to pull myself over to the belay...
with John Scarrott
First E2! Total epic when John fell off and learned to prussik alone in the void, the waves to loud for communicating, the rope over my leg. Lost the first few pages of my guidebook to the sea. Nearly went horribly wrong at the start, as I neglected to swing as I abseiled in, but managed to knot the end of the rope and throw it improbably into a crack to pull myself over to the belay...
with John Scarrott
feilx 22 Mar, 2009 2nd rpt stunning, i'd forgotten just how dam good this is. Think we did a bit of variation by stepping out right into a corner system between mars and melpomene. Have to check the cc guide.
with Crazy Tom
stunning, i'd forgotten just how dam good this is. Think we did a bit of variation by stepping out right into a corner system between mars and melpomene. Have to check the cc guide.
with Crazy Tom
paulh1967 ??, 2009 -
Hidden ??, 2009 Lead G/U
Hidden 11 Oct, 2008 Lead O/S
Different Steve 14 Sep, 2008 AltLd O/S Led big P2. What a beast of a route!
with Simon Chandler
Led big P2. What a beast of a route!
with Simon Chandler
Chad123 9 Apr, 2007 AltLd O/S Can't believe this was ever HVS or E1 - utterly terrifying and sustained moves up an overhanging groove, fortunately with a few hands off rests as you go. Even the approach abseil and traverse are scary! Good though.....
with Emily
Can't believe this was ever HVS or E1 - utterly terrifying and sustained moves up an overhanging groove, fortunately with a few hands off rests as you go. Even the approach abseil and traverse are scary! Good though.....
with Emily
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
scott titt ??, 2006 -
Hidden ??, 2006 -
brian watson ??, 2006 Lead dog
dan gibson ??, 2006 -
richgac 11 Sep, 2005 AltLd O/S Lead the tiny p1. Mega full body pump on p2!
with Nick
Lead the tiny p1. Mega full body pump on p2!
with Nick
feilx ??, 2005 -
Hidden 25 Jun, 2004 2nd dog
pezzerrr 13 Jul, 2003 Lead O/S
strapless ?May, 2003 2nd
with Paul Smart
with Paul Smart
craig h ?Apr, 2003 Lead O/S
with Paul Bentley
with Paul Bentley
JasonG ??, 2003 Lead O/S
with Mal Dickson
with Mal Dickson
Adam Ellwood ??, 2003 Lead O/S
with Tim
with Tim
Rob Kinsey ??, 2002 -
with joe lenham
with joe lenham
Ian JL ?Jun, 2001 2nd O/S
with Duncan Henderson
with Duncan Henderson
Hidden ??, 2001 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Apr, 2000 Lead O/S
Ian Jones ??, 2000 Solo O/S Fanfuckingtastic
with Karen Ghiselli
Fanfuckingtastic
with Karen Ghiselli
Marti999 ??, 2000 Lead
WB 14 Mar, 1999 AltLd O/S
with GuyM
with GuyM
Dave Cundy ?Aug, 1998 2nd O/S
with Phil Lee
with Phil Lee
Ian Jones ?Jun, 1998 Lead O/S Fantastic **** classic.
with Karen Ghiselli
Fantastic **** classic.
with Karen Ghiselli
tradguy 18 Aug, 1996 2nd O/S
with Robin Mazinke
with Robin Mazinke
Marti999 ?Aug, 1996 2nd O/S
with kev
with kev
Hidden ?Apr, 1995 -
duncan ?Nov, 1994 AltLd
with Dan Donovan
with Dan Donovan
Hidden ?Aug, 1994 Lead O/S
Didymus 25 Jun, 1994 2nd dog What a struggle for an E1 5a. Guidebook swallowed up by the sea!
with Rongor, Marcus
What a struggle for an E1 5a. Guidebook swallowed up by the sea!
with Rongor, Marcus
NeilGriffiths ??, 1994 Lead
with jon didymus
with jon didymus
duncan ??, 1994 AltLd O/S Dan took over lead due to feeling queasy
with Dan Donovan
Dan took over lead due to feeling queasy
with Dan Donovan
Okecroak 30 Aug, 1993 Lead E1 in those days, lost a number of wires on abseil
with J. Homewood
E1 in those days, lost a number of wires on abseil
with J. Homewood
Okecroak 30 Aug, 1993 AltLd O/S
with G Scott
with G Scott
OMSKB 4 May, 1993 Lead Went to pieces
with Richard Winfield
Went to pieces
with Richard Winfield
kylo-342 ?Feb, 1992 AltLd O/S
with Jason M
with Jason M
MoWalker3 10 Jul, 1991 AltLd
with Joe
with Joe
Chris Ebbutt ??, 1990 Lead Exhausted
Exhausted
steve taylor 3 Sep, 1989 Lead O/S
with Ket
with Ket
Hidden 25 Jul, 1988 Lead O/S
DDDD ??, 1987 Lead O/S Great E1
Great E1
Nigel Coe 20 Jul, 1986 2nd dog 1 rest point
with Brian Wyvill
1 rest point
with Brian Wyvill
pete johnson ?Jul, 1986 2nd
with Andy Tallant
with Andy Tallant
RichardMc 21 Jun, 1986 2nd
with Steve Gould
with Steve Gould
Hidden ??, 1985 Lead
Hidden ??, 1985 Lead
Hidden ??, 1981 Lead
Nigel Coe 6 Jul, 1980 Lead When graded HVS
with Steve Portnoi
When graded HVS
with Steve Portnoi
scott titt ??, 1979 Lead O/S Graded HVS
Graded HVS
Falko ??, 1977 AltLd O/S THis was the second ascent - according to Richard Crewe (and was HVS in those days).
with Howard Lancashire
THis was the second ascent - according to Richard Crewe (and was HVS in those days).
with Howard Lancashire
Falko 4 Jan, 1975 AltLd O/S
with Howard Lancashire
with Howard Lancashire
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 22
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 36
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set