Rockfax Description
A great, technical pitch. Start 5m right of a large corner, beneath a huge roof at the faultline. Climb a crack to a ledge at the base of a thin crack in the smooth wall below the roof. Climb the thin crack past a peg to the roof, traverse rightwards to below a corner and climb this strenuously to another corner. Move left around the arete to join and finish more easily up Lightning Wall. © Rockfax
FA. Richard Crewe, K.Winkworth 07/Jan/1968.
Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , Ultimate E1 ticklist , SW Climbs - Swanage , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Cool Names , Dorset , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Dorset Routes that are worth doing , Dorset Good Trad D-E2 , Top 25 E Grades in the southwest , Devon and surrounding counties, 51 E1, some E2, 1 E3 and an E9 , All-the-starred-non-bird-banned-E1s-at-the-Ruckle-in-a-day challenge , Red Spot Swanage & Lulworth
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Kevster | 1 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Crag swag left just after mid height break. I loved that red nut, if retrieved, please continue to love my nut by placing it in as many cracks as possible. | ||
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βeta: Crag swag left just after mid height break. I loved that red nut, if retrieved, please continue to love my nut by placing it in as many cracks as possible. |
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Chris_Tee | 16 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: Superb! The benchmark Swanage E1? Lead on a previous outing and endured a full on brawl with the corner - didn't fancy a repeat so took the obvious well travelled line 2m to the right. Similar grade just less....brawl-y? Big up Crewe and Winkworth for the FA - big line for the day no question! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Superb! The benchmark Swanage E1? Lead on a previous outing and endured a full on brawl with the corner - didn't fancy a repeat so took the obvious well travelled line 2m to the right. Similar grade just less....brawl-y? Big up Crewe and Winkworth for the FA - big line for the day no question! |
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Kyuzo | 27 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: Very enjoyable, exciting posittion, interesting climbing, though I think the comment about bucaneer is the wrong way around, bucaneer is more... atmoshpheric.Or maybe it was just the we had a beuatiful sinset when we did bucaneer. Both routes are really awesome. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Very enjoyable, exciting posittion, interesting climbing, though I think the comment about bucaneer is the wrong way around, bucaneer is more... atmoshpheric.Or maybe it was just the we had a beuatiful sinset when we did bucaneer. Both routes are really awesome. |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)