UKC

Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

33m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A great introduction to the art of roof thuggery with good gear.
1) 5b, 15m. Climb to the break in the roof and pull over it. Continue to the faultline and step right to a belay ledge.
2) 4c, 18m. Follow a wall and groove to a roof. Go left then back right and climb a corner to the top. © Rockfax

FA. Richard Crewe, K.Winkworth 28.7.1968. FFA. George Hounsome 11.3.1978.

Ticklists

Littlejohn South West Climbs , Ultimate E1 ticklist , SW Climbs - Swanage , Dorset Routes that are worth doing , All-the-starred-non-bird-banned-E1s-at-the-Ruckle-in-a-day challenge

Feedback

User Date Notes
GrahamD 12 Nov, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: The roof is very intimidating (even to second), commiting and strenuous although very safe. There is no backing down once commited - it felt very solid 5b to my weedy arms! Good fun.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The roof is very intimidating (even to second), commiting and strenuous although very safe. There is no backing down once commited - it felt very solid 5b to my weedy arms! Good fun.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 33
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 29
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Traverse of the Gods

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)

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