33m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A great introduction into the art of roof thuggery with good gear.
1) 5b, 15m. Climb to the break in the roof and pull over it. Continue to the fault-line and step right to a belay ledge.
2) 4c, 18m. Follow a wall and groove to a roof. Go left then back right and climb a corner to the top. © Rockfax

FA. Richard Crewe, K.Winkworth 28.7.68. FFA. George Hounsome 11.3.78 28/Jul/1968

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist, SW Climbs - Swanage.

Ellis Bird ??/2017 AltLd O/S
Mike Weatherill 12/Sep/16 -
with Eddy
JendeHoxar 07/Aug/16 Lead dnf

Wet and slimy, especially round the roof

with Ed
Mike Weatherill 02/Jul/16 Lead
Russtygibbons 01/May/16 Lead rpt

Went back and got it this time on lead.

with Ant
ASchwirtz 17/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Russ
Russtygibbons 17/Apr/16 2nd dog

Fell off on first attempt of the roof. Dangled around for 10 minutes faffing with a prussic. eventually flicked a sling at the rock and pulled myself back on. Nailed it second attempt.

with Ant
Hidden 02/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
poeter210 02/Apr/16 AltLd dog
with carlos
Hidden 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Misha 01/Aug/15 AltLd β

Mark lowered off from the roof after a few attempts so pulled the ropes and went up on his gear to the roof (there are two jammed wires anyway, the top one was pretty rusty so backed it up). Took three goes to psyche up for it, downclimbing to the rest twice. The crux holds were getting damp in the evening air, which didn't help. The crux is committing to getting the feet up. Expected it to be a battle but turned out to be fine, got a bit of a hip jam which helped and a couple of stiff pulls got me to good jugs and a vertical position. Took a belay just above and seconded Mark up the 4c top pitch. Topped out just as it was getting dusky at 9.20pm!

with Mark S
AlexD 30/May/15 AltLd β
with Brian, Sophie
Sophie Nunn 30/May/15 AltLd dog

Got it 3rd go!

with Alex, Brian
brian watson 30/May/15 AltLd
felixizzy 23/May/15 AltLd O/S

Such a thrill going though the roof & great exposure on the second pitch. The jugs not actually that hard to find if you look at the climb from the ground first.

with Bernard
charley 12/May/15 Lead G/U

Proper thugy moves. Not strong enough to cut loose so ended up totally squashed with my legs bent double in the groove - toe/foot jam for my left leg and right was providing a knee/thigh/arse jam - was just too cramped to move any further. Fell off when my arms gave up, just couldn't get my legs up, ended up inverting on the way down. Lowered off, pulled the ropes to rest then somehow got it on my next go. Don't think I found "the jug" but most of the holds I tried felt okay. In the end I went up with a good two-finger lock for my left hand, low down with a pull up to an okay-ish hold for my right, got my legs jammed in so I could work my right hand up to a finger lock in the flake then left hand went up to a pinchy crimp which was enough to get my right leg up.. Felt more like 5c the way I did it but this really isn't my usual style of climbing which is why I'm chuffed to have got up it...

with Mark
MDR61 12/May/15 2nd dog

Really pissed as I so nearly had him - found the jugs, did the whole cut loose, but as soon as I tried to jam my left leg in it was all over - good ground up Charley !

with charley
elfka 12/May/15 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch

with Will Graham, Joe Doherty
WillGraham1 12/May/15 Lead O/S
Shane Willis 23/Apr/15 AltLd β

Didn't find any jug, ended up like the chap below, cutting loose off a poor finger jam. Was primed and ready to leave a comment here swearing blind this was E2 5c.... And then read I missed a (very un obvious) jug, feel like a tool. Really enjoyed the top pitch though, solid holds slightly left of the looser stuff.

ian bryant ??/2015 -
Cheese Monkey 28/Dec/14 AltLd RP

Failed to find the obvious jug first time round spent ages stretching all over the place and ended up knackered. Second go went much better!

with PeteUKC
halfwaythere 28/Dec/14 AltLd

Led second pitcb

with ben
Hidden 13/Dec/14 AltLd rpt
jacobjlloyd 28/Oct/14 2nd β

Everyone is going on about some jug... all I managed was a dodge fingerlock to aid inverting into a hanging kneebar, which was much harder than the predicted 5b. Where is that jug then..?!

with Andrea R
LJC 21/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

P1. One ok stuck nut in the roof and a second forgotten nut and draw in situ. Pegs are long gone. Full prussic self rescue deployment when Ben fell off after removing the last gear.

ben.richards 21/Sep/14 AltLd dog

Fell seconding roof on P1, had to prussik up past the roof. Lead P2 clean

Simon Allcock 20/Aug/14 AltLd

fell first time on roof. then nailed it. a 'big arm' route

with Wilki
ian d f 12/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

led p1

with Paul K
mattprince 26/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd Pitch, great route!!

joedoherty 26/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Hard pull over but once you found the jugs it's all good. No fixed gear in the roof anymore.

Kevster 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Excellent - Ruckle's answer to flying buttress?

Gavdee1 20/Jul/14 2nd dnf
with Kev
andycash 29/Jun/14 2nd dog
with Ash
clipskipper 29/Jun/14 AltLd rpt
with Sue Hazel
Hidden 29/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Ash Sayers 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
JM 25/May/14 Lead O/S
with Stevo
paultaylor 16/May/14 AltLd O/S
will moy 16/May/14 AltLd
with paul taylor
clipskipper 03/May/14 AltLd β

Had to fight the roof, but otherwise fine

with Ro
adam 24 03/May/14 2nd O/S

Tough move through the roof for an E1

Stuart Johnston 03/May/14 Lead rpt

Fell off crux, lowered to ground, reclaimed clean

mike.moss 17/Nov/13 AltLd dog
Kirill 17/Nov/13 AltLd dog

Led P1. The jug is very difficult to find.

Matt77 04/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Owen made short work of the roof. Exhilarating move, pulling on big jugs. I led the second pitch which was straight forward but delicate because of the loose rock.

with Owen
Owen W-G 04/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Clipped a fair few in situ rusty bits under the roof. Cut loose for about 1/2 a second at one point. Wild move but safe and easy if you can do a pull up on jugs.

with Matt B
Hidden 03/Aug/13 Lead dog
Monkey_Alan 28/Jul/13 AltLd dog

Found the holds this time - but couldn't commit to cutting loose and pulling up.

Julian Prieto 28/Jul/13 AltLd dog

Led P2. Fell off the crux on P1.

Hidden 18/Jun/13 AltLd dog
johncoxmysteriously 02/Jun/13 AltLd

Impressive no-one else thinks this is hard E1, given all the failures.

with mike redmayne
mattc 27/May/13 2nd dnf

Stuck under roof

bigie bob 04/May/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/13 2nd
Monkey_Alan 20/Apr/13 AltLd dog

Led P1. Undercut beneath the roof was wet, couldn't quite reach the jug. Ended up aiding around the roof.

ianto ??/2013 -
Haydn Jones 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with pep
MarkRyder 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Iain
Hidden 02/Jun/12 2nd β
Hidden 29/May/12 AltLd dog
dickie01 25/Mar/12 AltLd
with Joe Heasman
DP1977 ??/2012 Lead O/S
with David Potter
Graham Westbrook 16/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Ed Babs 10/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

P2 with Harry 20 jul 2008 P1 with tom

feilx 19/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with jon brown
JonBrown 19/Mar/11 2nd O/S

Intimidating roof is a bit of a pussy cat once you find the MASSIVE jug

with Felix
msoldn 21/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Got totally entangled in ropes on crux move and ended up hanging on lip of roof for half a minute trying to get out of the mess to be able to carry on moving up. Only just pulled through!

with Felix
feilx 21/Nov/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 31/Jul/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 19/Jun/10 Lead rpt
clipskipper 19/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

All good clean Swanage fun!

with Sue Hazel
LoopyLou 12/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Well, its perfectly described in the guidebook - an intro to the art of roof thuggery. Steady enough up to the break below the roof, and protectable in the break and roof if you have the right size camps. Thea had 5 bits of gear....which all held when she launched into the roof, feet cut loose, found a reasonable hold but couldnt oomph through the move to get established, and dramatically said "have you got me, i'm off". Off she was, and 5 mins later was back on, and burlied through it with more ease and a smile. I of course enjoyed every minute of it safe on second. Second pitch which i led was an anticlimax.

with Thea Williams
givemetea 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S

burly and intimidating going through the roof

with Helen King
Richard Horn 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
henbot 04/Jul/09 2nd dog
with Ben Bradford
Mr Tickle 02/May/09 Lead O/S

Reachy through crux but great move, all good gear placements taken by dead gear but still a few spots. Had major rockfall at top, take care.

with Anthony Ray
Hidden 26/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2009 -
mutt ??/2009 -
with Naomi Moran
feilx 07/Dec/08 2nd rpt


with Crazy Tom
jamieevans ??/2008 Lead
clipskipper 25/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

Bit reachy through the crux over the roof, which I lead, finding all the decent cracks already full of dead gear. Apparently it's better if you pull up with your left hand! Good belay off to the right on two threads. Top pitch steep and quite loose, lead delicately and cautiously by Dave.

with Davey Boy
Hidden 16/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
dan gibson 05/Nov/06 AltLd O/S
with eddie church
dan gibson 21/Sep/06 Lead rpt
with jamie evans
Hidden ??/2006 -
brian watson ??/2006 -

first E1 in the ruckle

dan gibson ??/2006 -
feilx ??/2005 -
Ian JL ??/2001 Lead O/S
clark alston ?/Feb/00 Lead O/S
with Dave Henderson
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/2000 AltLd
craig h 25/May/99 AltLd O/S
with Glen S
Hidden 26/Apr/98 AltLd O/S
duncan 23/Mar/96 2nd
with Dan Donovan
Hidden ??/1994 Lead
steve taylor ??/1993 -
kp64zl ?/May/92 AltLd
with Jason M
ewjudge 27/Apr/91 AltLd O/S

Mark did the hard work leading through the roof!

with Mark Richards, Owen Howell
Nigel Coe ?/Apr/90 -
with Tim Dunsby
Robmwatt ??/1990 -
Nigel Coe 08/Apr/84 AltLd
with Pete Oxley
Nigel Coe 01/Mar/80 Lead

With aid on the roof, back when it was VS A1.

with Frank Farrell
Falko 21/Oct/78 AltLd O/S

Dispensed withn the aid which the guidebook described at the time.

with Howard Lancashire
13 users have this on their wishlist
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 28
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 26
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set