UKC

Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

36m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A dominating groove-line in a strenuous old-school style.
1) 5b, 18m. Climb the groove past a big flake, then head through a break in the bulge above to a good ledge at the faultline.
2) 5a, 18m. Follow the groove past a huge dubious block and continue to the top. The block is the size of a Mini car, and has no visible means of attachment but is still there - feeling lucky? © Rockfax

FA. Mick Nunn, Richard Crewe 17.7.1968. FFA. Brian Snell, W.Lyons.

Ticklists

All-the-starred-non-bird-banned-E1s-at-the-Ruckle-in-a-day challenge

Feedback

User Date Notes
geoffgo21 13 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: As regards the "block" we spent some while trying to avoid touching it but in the end as Graham D says using it is inevitable. Good route though.
βeta?
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βeta: As regards the "block" we spent some while trying to avoid touching it but in the end as Graham D says using it is inevitable. Good route though.
ap 15 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: the dubious block is surprisingly solid though!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: the dubious block is surprisingly solid though!
GrahamD 12 Nov, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: Fairly low in the grade but atmospheric. Pitch 1 would probably only get HVS 5a in the peak as a jamming exercise. The 'dubious block' on pitch 2 is the size of a mini with NO visible means of attachment. Laybacking the edge of this block appears unavoidable and is very unnerving.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fairly low in the grade but atmospheric. Pitch 1 would probably only get HVS 5a in the peak as a jamming exercise. The 'dubious block' on pitch 2 is the size of a mini with NO visible means of attachment. Laybacking the edge of this block appears unavoidable and is very unnerving.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 12
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Strongbow

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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