45m.

Rockfax Description
The outrageous ship's prow arete overhangs at 45° for most of its length. It has three hard sections with shakeouts in between. The first is a radical groove, then a crack bisecting a series of huge roofs and finally a less-steep arching crack and bands of horizontals with tough moves to reach the belay. There are around 22 bolts. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley Apr/1992

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Rockfax West Country top 50, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, UK 8a and up, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Rob Kennard 19 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: The first 5 bolts have been replaced with stainless steel Petzl's - There is currently a staple missing from the initial section, which should be placed before the Bird-Ban returns, Rob
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The first 5 bolts have been replaced with stainless steel Petzl's - There is currently a staple missing from the initial section, which should be placed before the Bird-Ban returns, Rob
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Dale Comley 19 Nov, 2017 Lead dog
with brices
with brices
brices 19 Nov, 2017 Lead dnf Poor conditions today
Poor conditions today
Hidden 5 Nov, 2017 Lead RP
brices 5 Nov, 2017 Lead dog What an epic route, came off a few bolts form end on first RP then sun down
What an epic route, came off a few bolts form end on first RP then sun down
Ged Desforges 5 Oct, 2017 Lead Brilliant. Can't believe how pumpy the top feels.
Brilliant. Can't believe how pumpy the top feels.
Ged Desforges 28 Sep, 2017 - What a route. 45 metres of jugs. Just stunning. Made it to the undercut traverse leftwards before biceps exploded. Will be back soon. Definitely worth waiting until as late in the day as you can to let the grease burn off. I don't understand the comments below. Why would you expect it to feel 7b/7c? It's an 8a+! Big move between third and fourth but nothing too out of the ordinary for a route of this grade
What a route. 45 metres of jugs. Just stunning. Made it to the undercut traverse leftwards before biceps exploded. Will be back soon. Definitely worth waiting until as late in the day as you can to let the grease burn off. I don't understand the comments below. Why would you expect it to feel 7b/7c? It's an 8a+! Big move between third and fourth but nothing too out of the ordinary for a route of this grade
ricci.andrea86 2 Jul, 2017 Lead dnf Climb the first 20m. In theory should feel like 7b/c ish but we didn't figure out how to do a boulder sequence. A bit frustrating since there are another 25m to finish the route. Is anyone aware if a good hold/jug broke off between the third and fourth bolts? On the lower parts there are more woobly holds..
Climb the first 20m. In theory should feel like 7b/c ish but we didn't figure out how to do a boulder sequence. A bit frustrating since there are another 25m to finish the route. Is anyone aware if a good hold/jug broke off between the third and fourth bolts? On the lower parts there are more woobly holds..
hamer89 ?Jul, 2015 Lead RP Best sport route I've done in the UK and perhaps anywhere. Simply stunning position
Best sport route I've done in the UK and perhaps anywhere. Simply stunning position
Cailean Harker 4 Oct, 2014 Lead RP What an amazing route. An absolute battle at the top fighting a mega pump. Not many hard moves but a hell of a lot of them! 2nd go.
with Ben West
What an amazing route. An absolute battle at the top fighting a mega pump. Not many hard moves but a hell of a lot of them! 2nd go.
with Ben West
westyb3 4 Oct, 2014 Lead RP What a battle! incredible route from start to finish
What a battle! incredible route from start to finish
trev_f 1 Aug, 2013 Lead dnf
Hidden 2 Dec, 2012 Lead dnf
Hidden 20 Oct, 2012 Lead dog
tom106 8 Sep, 2012 Lead dog it begins. the cave is an amazing place to be!
it begins. the cave is an amazing place to be!
dannyboy83 8 Sep, 2012 Lead dog Round 1. Wow!
with tom106
Round 1. Wow!
with tom106
quiffhanger 1 Sep, 2012 Lead dnf Just another quick play at the end of the day. Fully equipped at the moment - makes life much easier. Really keen to give it a proper go but probably next year now.
with Dan
Just another quick play at the end of the day. Fully equipped at the moment - makes life much easier. Really keen to give it a proper go but probably next year now.
with Dan
david potts 31 Aug, 2012 Lead RP Picked the best day of the year to do this amazing route. One of the best routes that I have done. whhoooo whhooooo (owl noise).
Picked the best day of the year to do this amazing route. One of the best routes that I have done. whhoooo whhooooo (owl noise).
quiffhanger 19 Aug, 2012 Lead dog Unbelievable. Our very own piece of Rodellar with added British sea-cliff character (aka grease & commitment factor). Dogged a little to much to really feel the moves but def keen to give it some more time. _Very_ nearly got cutoff by the tide in the dark! Bit of an epic.
Unbelievable. Our very own piece of Rodellar with added British sea-cliff character (aka grease & commitment factor). Dogged a little to much to really feel the moves but def keen to give it some more time. _Very_ nearly got cutoff by the tide in the dark! Bit of an epic.
Hidden 11 Aug, 2012 Lead dnf
Gavinsymonds 30 Aug, 2011 - Needs good conditions but when you have them this is the best climb anywhere!
Needs good conditions but when you have them this is the best climb anywhere!
bigie bob 16 Aug, 2009 Lead RP
56 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 8b
Mid 8b
Low 8b
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 9
Style of ascent
Lead
Not Set
Redpoint
DNF
Dogged
Not Set