UKC

45m.

Rockfax Description
The outrageous ship's prow arete overhangs at 45° for most of its length. It has three hard sections with shakeouts in between. The first is a radical groove, then a crack bisecting a series of huge roofs and finally a less-steep arching crack and bands of horizontals with tough moves to reach the belay. There are around 22 bolts. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 4.92 Apr/1992

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Rockfax West Country top 50, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, UK 8a and up, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).


ClimberDateStyle
Dale Comley 19/Nov/17 Lead dog
with brices
brices 19/Nov/17 Lead dnf

Poor conditions today

Hidden 05/Nov/17 Lead RP
brices 05/Nov/17 Lead dog

What an epic route, came off a few bolts form end on first RP then sun down

Ged Desforges 05/Oct/17 Lead

Brilliant. Can't believe how pumpy the top feels.

Ged Desforges 28/Sep/17 -

What a route. 45 metres of jugs. Just stunning. Made it to the undercut traverse leftwards before biceps exploded. Will be back soon. Definitely worth waiting until as late in the day as you can to let the grease burn off. I don't understand the comments below. Why would you expect it to feel 7b/7c? It's an 8a+! Big move between third and fourth but nothing too out of the ordinary for a route of this grade

ricci.andrea86 02/Jul/17 Lead dnf

Climb the first 20m. In theory should feel like 7b/c ish but we didn't figure out how to do a boulder sequence. A bit frustrating since there are another 25m to finish the route. Is anyone aware if a good hold/jug broke off between the third and fourth bolts? On the lower parts there are more woobly holds..

Cailean Harker 04/Oct/14 Lead RP

What an amazing route. An absolute battle at the top fighting a mega pump. Not many hard moves but a hell of a lot of them! 2nd go.

with Ben West
westyb3 04/Oct/14 Lead RP

What a battle! incredible route from start to finish

trev_f 01/Aug/13 Lead dnf
Hidden 02/Dec/12 Lead dnf
Hidden 20/Oct/12 Lead dog
tom106 08/Sep/12 Lead dog

it begins. the cave is an amazing place to be!

with dannyb
dannyboy83 08/Sep/12 Lead dog

Round 1. Wow!

quiffhanger 01/Sep/12 Lead dnf

Just another quick play at the end of the day. Fully equipped at the moment - makes life much easier. Really keen to give it a proper go but probably next year now.

with Dan
david potts 31/Aug/12 Lead RP

Picked the best day of the year to do this amazing route. One of the best routes that I have done. whhoooo whhooooo (owl noise).

quiffhanger 19/Aug/12 Lead dog

Unbelievable. Our very own piece of Rodellar with added British sea-cliff character (aka grease & commitment factor). Dogged a little to much to really feel the moves but def keen to give it some more time. _Very_ nearly got cutoff by the tide in the dark! Bit of an epic.

with Jacob
Hidden 11/Aug/12 Lead dnf
Gavinsymonds 30/Aug/11 -

Needs good conditions but when you have them this is the best climb anywhere!

bigie bob 16/Aug/09 Lead RP
45 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 8b
Mid 8b
Low 8b
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 9
Style of ascent
Lead
Not Set
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set