Rockfax Description
A neat stamina pitch up the flowstone face that is deceptively tough. The start to gain a jug over the second roof is a V2 boulder problem. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 8.4.92. The first route in the U.K. to have staple bolts - how they have spread! 08/Apr/1992

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Dancing Ledge apprenticeship, Dancing Ledge Sport Climbs.

EveC995 05/Nov Lead RP
blaza1 14/Oct Lead O/S
with Lizzy
Hidden 23/Jul Lead RP
joe1joe1joe2 30/Apr Lead RP

Feels like a hard 7a+. But a really fun route; I think it deserves three stars. It is the nicest route I've tried to date at Dancing Ledge (not climbed anything on the far right hand side due to seepage).

Ellis Bird ??/2017 Lead
spidey 13/Nov/16 Lead RP
with Hazel
ian d f 17/Aug/16 TR dog
with shunt
Hidden 07/Apr/16 2nd
Hidden 07/Apr/16 Lead
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 15/Feb/16 Lead RP

Had a play on TR then went for a lead with totally different sequence which worked.

with Jerome
ihugrocks ??/2016 -
Hidden 08/Aug/15 Lead RP
MontyH 22/Jul/15 TR
with brian and Pete
Sophie Nunn 21/Jul/15 Lead dog
with Matt W
Ed Babs 07/Jul/15 Lead RP

Excellent route.

Sophie Nunn 07/Jul/15 Lead dog
with Ed B
Shane Willis 30/Apr/15 Lead RP

1st red point. The chalk sent me the wrong way on my first look at it.

BRoe ?/Apr/15 Lead RP

Cracking routes, dropped the last hard move on the on-sight... gutted

with Seamus, Will Lord, Millard, DanG
Hidden 17/Aug/14 Lead RP
Hidden 17/Aug/14 Lead RP
Rob Grant 12/Jul/14 -
Hidden 05/Jul/14 Lead RP
adam 24 05/Jul/14 Lead RP
hervenuttall ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with calum
dmoir 23/Aug/13 Lead RP
with Oli
Jon_Warner 04/Aug/13 TR dog


with Jonny
Hidden 04/Aug/13 Lead RP
Hidden 04/Aug/13 TR dog
Hidden 25/Aug/12 Lead RP
marcb 17/Jun/12 Lead dog

Really good climbing on slots up to the amazing under-cling. The next section was definitely the crux, where you end up on two very poor holds and have to clip. This feels harder than other 7a in the other area.

quiffhanger 03/Jun/12 Lead RP

Remember trying this once years ago. Hardly remembered it so almost an on-sight...

Kris suriyo 18/Mar/12 Lead β
Hidden 07/Mar/12 Lead RP
Jonathan Emett 24/Dec/11 TR dog
Hidden 18/Dec/11 TR dog
Hidden 18/Dec/11 Lead RP
Hidden 18/Dec/11 TR dog
Hidden 09/Dec/11 TR dog
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead RP
Sophie Nunn 07/Aug/11 2nd dog
with Brian
Hidden 07/Aug/11 Lead dog
brian watson 07/Aug/11 TR dog
Sami Mandeel 31/Jul/11 Lead dnf

Couldn't clip the 4th bolt! Spent quite a bit of time trying different things but couldn't sus it. Got to a thin crimp but where after that?! Has this lost a hold? Couldn't see any chalk after this point...

andyjirvin 08/Mar/11 TR dnf

Partner's project. Start a V3 boulder problem apparently though felt harder to me... tiny sharp hold almost went through left forefinger!

Hidden 05/Feb/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 12/Sep/10 Lead RP
Hidden 11/Sep/10 TR dog
Hidden 29/Aug/10 Lead
La benya 21/May/10 Lead RP

pretty tough! got it 4th go this time. sustained climbing with no real rest after the start boulder problem. completely sequency and can be hard to fathom if not chalked... chuffed to get this.

Martin Krasnansky 14/Mar/09 Lead RP

good climbing when its dry

pezzerrr 30/Dec/08 Lead RP
sam_cox ?/Dec/08 Lead
feilx 12/Aug/08 Lead RP
with Heather
feilx 10/Aug/08 Lead dog
with Bern
Hidden 10/Aug/08 Lead
Hidden 12/Jul/08 Lead RP
Hidden 05/Aug/07 2nd dog
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
bigie bob 09/Jun/06 Lead RP
dannyboy83 ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
feeko ??/2006 -
Hidden ?/Aug/99 Lead
Hidden 25/Aug/96 Lead RP
sadams 21/Jul/96 Lead O/S
with Dixon/Fletcher
steve taylor ??/1995 Lead
9 users have this on their wishlist
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Votes cast 27
Votes cast 18
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set