10m.

Rockfax Description
A neat stamina pitch up the flowstone face that is deceptively tough. The start to gain a jug over the second roof is a V2 boulder problem. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley. The first route in the U.K. to have staple bolts - how they have spread! 08/Apr/1992

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Dancing Ledge apprenticeship, Dancing Ledge Sport Climbs

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Jake Shaw 19 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: This has to be the hardest 7a I've done in ages. Felt harder than Victims of Fashion (7a+) on portland for example
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This has to be the hardest 7a I've done in ages. Felt harder than Victims of Fashion (7a+) on portland for example
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Hidden 28 Oct, 2018 Lead rpt
samparsons 22 Oct, 2018 Lead dog Powering out.
Powering out.
Tom Livingstone 17 Oct, 2018 Lead RP
Mark Stevenson 17 Oct, 2018 Lead RP
brian watson 31 Aug, 2018 Lead RP
with Vicky Weatheril , Mike Weatherill
with Vicky Weatheril , Mike Weatherill
Mike Weatherill 31 Aug, 2018 Lead RP
with brian watson, Vicky Weatherill
with brian watson, Vicky Weatherill
Hidden 27 May, 2018 TR dnf
brian watson 25 Nov, 2017 Lead dog 4 burns today on this, think i need to do it soon with Phil's beta.
with Phil Belcher, Mike Weatherill, Eddy Young
4 burns today on this, think i need to do it soon with Phil's beta.
with Phil Belcher, Mike Weatherill, Eddy Young
Mike Weatherill 25 Nov, 2017 TR dog
Hidden 12 Nov, 2017 Lead β
EveC995 5 Nov, 2017 Lead RP
blaza1 14 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 23 Jul, 2017 Lead RP
dom_joyce265 30 Apr, 2017 Lead RP
joe1joe1joe2 30 Apr, 2017 Lead RP Feels like a hard 7a+. But a really fun route; I think it deserves three stars. It is the nicest route I've tried to date at Dancing Ledge (not climbed anything on the far right hand side due to seepage).
Feels like a hard 7a+. But a really fun route; I think it deserves three stars. It is the nicest route I've tried to date at Dancing Ledge (not climbed anything on the far right hand side due to seepage).
Hidden 7 Jan, 2017 Lead
Ellis Bird ??, 2017 Lead
spidey 13 Nov, 2016 Lead RP
with Hazel
with Hazel
ian d f 17 Aug, 2016 TR dog
with shunt
with shunt
Hidden 7 Apr, 2016 2nd
petegunn 7 Apr, 2016 Lead
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 15 Feb, 2016 Lead RP Had a play on TR then went for a lead with totally different sequence which worked.
Had a play on TR then went for a lead with totally different sequence which worked.
ihugrocks ??, 2016 -
Hidden 8 Aug, 2015 Lead RP
MontyH 22 Jul, 2015 TR
with brian and Pete
with brian and Pete
Sophie Nunn 21 Jul, 2015 Lead dog
with Matt W
with Matt W
Ed Babs 7 Jul, 2015 Lead RP Excellent route.
Excellent route.
Sophie Nunn 7 Jul, 2015 Lead dog
with Ed Babs
with Ed Babs
Shane Willis 30 Apr, 2015 Lead RP 1st red point. The chalk sent me the wrong way on my first look at it.
1st red point. The chalk sent me the wrong way on my first look at it.
BRoe ?Apr, 2015 Lead RP Cracking routes, dropped the last hard move on the on-sight... gutted
with Seamus, Will Lord, Millard, DanG
Cracking routes, dropped the last hard move on the on-sight... gutted
with Seamus, Will Lord, Millard, DanG
Hidden 17 Aug, 2014 Lead RP
Hidden 17 Aug, 2014 Lead RP
Hidden 12 Jul, 2014 -
Hidden 5 Jul, 2014 Lead RP
adam 24 5 Jul, 2014 Lead RP
hervenuttall ?Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
with calum
with calum
dmoir 23 Aug, 2013 Lead RP
with Oli
with Oli
Jon_Warner 4 Aug, 2013 TR dog Eeeesk...
Eeeesk...
Jonny_86 4 Aug, 2013 Lead RP 7b. Great little gem in the corner. Pumpy start on big moves, crimpy finish. Almost OS. 1 move off - damn!
7b. Great little gem in the corner. Pumpy start on big moves, crimpy finish. Almost OS. 1 move off - damn!
Hidden 4 Aug, 2013 TR dog
Hidden 25 Aug, 2012 Lead RP
marcb 17 Jun, 2012 Lead dog Really good climbing on slots up to the amazing under-cling. The next section was definitely the crux, where you end up on two very poor holds and have to clip. This feels harder than other 7a in the other area.
Really good climbing on slots up to the amazing under-cling. The next section was definitely the crux, where you end up on two very poor holds and have to clip. This feels harder than other 7a in the other area.
quiffhanger 3 Jun, 2012 Lead RP Remember trying this once years ago. Hardly remembered it so almost an on-sight...
Remember trying this once years ago. Hardly remembered it so almost an on-sight...
Kris suriyo 18 Mar, 2012 Lead β
Hidden 7 Mar, 2012 Lead RP
Jonathan Emett 24 Dec, 2011 TR dog
Hidden 18 Dec, 2011 TR dog
Hidden 18 Dec, 2011 Lead RP
Hidden 18 Dec, 2011 TR dog
Hidden 9 Dec, 2011 TR dog
Hidden 14 Aug, 2011 Lead RP
Sophie Nunn 7 Aug, 2011 2nd dog
Hidden 7 Aug, 2011 Lead dog
brian watson 7 Aug, 2011 TR dog
Sami Mandeel 31 Jul, 2011 Lead dnf Couldn't clip the 4th bolt! Spent quite a bit of time trying different things but couldn't sus it. Got to a thin crimp but where after that?! Has this lost a hold? Couldn't see any chalk after this point...
Couldn't clip the 4th bolt! Spent quite a bit of time trying different things but couldn't sus it. Got to a thin crimp but where after that?! Has this lost a hold? Couldn't see any chalk after this point...
andyjirvin 8 Mar, 2011 TR dnf Partner's project. Start a V3 boulder problem apparently though felt harder to me... tiny sharp hold almost went through left forefinger!
Partner's project. Start a V3 boulder problem apparently though felt harder to me... tiny sharp hold almost went through left forefinger!
Hidden 5 Feb, 2011 Lead dnf
Hidden 12 Sep, 2010 Lead RP
Hidden 11 Sep, 2010 TR dog
Hidden 29 Aug, 2010 Lead
La benya 21 May, 2010 Lead RP pretty tough! got it 4th go this time. sustained climbing with no real rest after the start boulder problem. completely sequency and can be hard to fathom if not chalked... chuffed to get this.
pretty tough! got it 4th go this time. sustained climbing with no real rest after the start boulder problem. completely sequency and can be hard to fathom if not chalked... chuffed to get this.
Martin Krasnansky 14 Mar, 2009 Lead RP good climbing when its dry
good climbing when its dry
pezzerrr 30 Dec, 2008 Lead RP
sam_cox ?Dec, 2008 Lead
feilx 12 Aug, 2008 Lead RP
feilx 10 Aug, 2008 Lead dog
with Bern
with Bern
Hidden 10 Aug, 2008 Lead
Hidden 12 Jul, 2008 Lead RP
Hidden 5 Aug, 2007 2nd dog
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
Hidden ??, 2007 -
bigie bob 9 Jun, 2006 Lead RP
dannyboy83 ?Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??, 2006 Lead
feeko ??, 2006 -
Hidden ?Aug, 1999 Lead
Hidden 25 Aug, 1996 Lead RP
sadams 21 Jul, 1996 Lead O/S
with Dixon/Fletcher
with Dixon/Fletcher
steve taylor ??, 1995 Lead
11 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 18
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set