12m.

Rockfax Description
A varied and interesting route up the leftward-leaning groove. Keep an eye on the footholds or things can quickly feel a lot harder. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Taylor 11.11.90 11/Nov/1990

Ticklists

Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Dancing Ledge apprenticeship, Dancing Ledge Sport Climbs, Memorable Climbs

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UserDateNotes
jamesk93 27 May Show βeta
βeta: The only way I could get past the crux was to jam my fingers in a diagonal constriction, which led to some very sore fingers and skin after my many attempts.
 
Show beta
βeta: The only way I could get past the crux was to jam my fingers in a diagonal constriction, which led to some very sore fingers and skin after my many attempts.
chrisbevins 29 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: u think easy, i found it hard, took much more effort that normal for 6c, perhaps i was doing the wrong sequence
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: u think easy, i found it hard, took much more effort that normal for 6c, perhaps i was doing the wrong sequence
Ben Thorne 28 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Big ledge/jug at start is still there, if a little loose. Shield higher up is fine. Clips are fine. Crux is about 5c. Easy 6c for the 'Ledge?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Big ledge/jug at start is still there, if a little loose. Shield higher up is fine. Clips are fine. Crux is about 5c. Easy 6c for the 'Ledge?
chrisbevins 27 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: busted off two really big jugs at the bottom of this when we were there last week -- sorry everyone, flakey knob just after the 1st clip seems like its about to go too, we might have a new crux beginning in a years time
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: busted off two really big jugs at the bottom of this when we were there last week -- sorry everyone, flakey knob just after the 1st clip seems like its about to go too, we might have a new crux beginning in a years time
Charles Arthur 21 Mar, 2000 Show βeta
βeta: One very hard move forms the crux. Difficult third clip - reaching across groove.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One very hard move forms the crux. Difficult third clip - reaching across groove.
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
jamesk93 26 May Lead dnf Polished holds. This would probably have nice moves if it were in good condition.
Polished holds. This would probably have nice moves if it were in good condition.
Jin Matsu 21 Apr -
Hidden 14 Apr Lead rpt
Hidden 11 Apr Lead RP
Hidden 23 Feb Lead dog
rackamthered ?? -
Hidden 28 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
samparsons 26 Oct, 2018 Lead β
Tom Livingstone 26 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
with Sam Parsons
with Sam Parsons
00robhar 31 Aug, 2018 Lead RP
Dan Hostford 30 Aug, 2018 Lead G/U
with Tranter, LSMC
with Tranter, LSMC
Tranter 30 Aug, 2018 TR
Tranter 30 Aug, 2018 TR
DanielDean 30 Aug, 2018 Lead dnf Attempted after Rob's session working the route. Couldn't reach the undercling. Potential for another time but would need alternative beta to make up for lack of reach.
Attempted after Rob's session working the route. Couldn't reach the undercling. Potential for another time but would need alternative beta to make up for lack of reach.
FelixPeterken 28 Aug, 2018 Lead RP 2nd go, foot slip scuppered the first attempt
with AndrewP
2nd go, foot slip scuppered the first attempt
with AndrewP
WillAndrew 27 Aug, 2018 Lead RP
ali.scott 27 Aug, 2018 Lead RP
vix 24 Aug, 2018 Lead RP Fell off the crux 4x's then reach to the crimp 2x's. Finally.
Fell off the crux 4x's then reach to the crimp 2x's. Finally.
Stamper 11 Aug, 2018 Lead dog
James Oswald ?Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Ace
with Bede
Ace
with Bede
Q.Estelles 28 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with adam088
with adam088
hfotheri 28 Jul, 2018 Lead dog
julesmckim 3 Jun, 2018 Lead RP Hard work! Is everything at Dancing Ledge hard for the grade? Strange mixture today of seepage and 28 degree sunshine. Wet hold on the crux, fingers popped out. First redpoint but only just
with Antonina Lach
Hard work! Is everything at Dancing Ledge hard for the grade? Strange mixture today of seepage and 28 degree sunshine. Wet hold on the crux, fingers popped out. First redpoint but only just
with Antonina Lach
Andre Clarke 20 May, 2018 Lead dnf Vital holds wet from seepage
Vital holds wet from seepage
john1 4 Feb, 2018 Lead RP Tried this last spring couldn't do the crux at all but this time got it after a few times on the top rope. Just a slight twist with the shoulders and hips and Bobs your granny.
Tried this last spring couldn't do the crux at all but this time got it after a few times on the top rope. Just a slight twist with the shoulders and hips and Bobs your granny.
Hidden 4 Feb, 2018 TR RP
luke glaister 28 Jan, 2018 Lead dog Wrong handed myself and could not reverse and pinged off. Loved the crux on this. Well worth a blast.
with RobinJones, Ed Atkinson , Benjohns92, Jimmysmith1577
Wrong handed myself and could not reverse and pinged off. Loved the crux on this. Well worth a blast.
with RobinJones, Ed Atkinson , Benjohns92, Jimmysmith1577
RobinJones 28 Jan, 2018 Lead dog
eddie coughlin 28 Jan, 2018 Lead dog
with Jimmy Smith
with Jimmy Smith
Hidden 26 Nov, 2017 Lead rpt
fatchild 29 Oct, 2017 Lead
Hidden 8 Sep, 2017 Lead G/U
Hidden 7 Sep, 2017 Lead dog
bpmclimb 21 Aug, 2017 Lead dog First route, intended as a warm up, but mistook this for a 5+ route.
First route, intended as a warm up, but mistook this for a 5+ route.
Huntlyfiddler 21 Aug, 2017 2nd
Chops 12 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Marti999 20 Jul, 2017 Lead rpt
with Vic, purple sue
with Vic, purple sue
Hidden 20 Jul, 2017 TR dog
Gloria 10 Jun, 2017 -
Carl 29 May, 2017 Lead RP Really should have onsighted this, fell at the top when a bit of handhold crumbled after I went for the wrong hold. Fell and swung into the rock and took a chunk out of my leg. Felt really solid on the second attempt.
Really should have onsighted this, fell at the top when a bit of handhold crumbled after I went for the wrong hold. Fell and swung into the rock and took a chunk out of my leg. Felt really solid on the second attempt.
The Screaming Finn 29 May, 2017 Lead dnf
with Carl
with Carl
StrongDan 13 May, 2017 Lead β
Hidden 28 Jan, 2017 Lead O/S
Sophie Nunn 28 Jan, 2017 Lead dog
with Mike H, brian watson
with Mike H, brian watson
Ellis Bird ??, 2017 Lead
Hidden 11 Aug, 2016 Lead RP
ian d f 11 Aug, 2016 TR O/S
with shunt
with shunt
Sam4242 11 Aug, 2016 Lead RP
with ElArt
with ElArt
Hidden 17 Jul, 2016 Lead RP
Adam Willison 11 Jul, 2016 Lead β
treesrockice 26 Jun, 2016 Lead RP 3rd go. o/s past crux relaxed and fell off, smashed my knee. waa
3rd go. o/s past crux relaxed and fell off, smashed my knee. waa
dbottomley 14 Jun, 2016 Lead RP
Alex N-R 14 Jun, 2016 Lead β
aiyer 4 Jun, 2016 Lead dog Absolutely shattered after numerous attempts on 'Double or Quits' so had nothing in the tank for this one. But fun moves and one to do clean on a day with fresh arms!
Absolutely shattered after numerous attempts on 'Double or Quits' so had nothing in the tank for this one. But fun moves and one to do clean on a day with fresh arms!
Ed.Laver 1 Jun, 2016 Lead β
paultaylor 20 May, 2016 Lead rpt
alexspurling 1 May, 2016 Lead dnf Could not get past the crux. Someone will have to show me the beta
Could not get past the crux. Someone will have to show me the beta
e9mark 23 Jul, 2015 Lead dnf
with barry
with barry
Joris.Roulleau 19 Jul, 2015 Lead RP
with Hamish Rose
with Hamish Rose
GPN 4 Jul, 2015 Lead
with net
with net
hervenuttall ?Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
with calum
with calum
Ian Bell 17 May, 2015 Lead RP 2nd time. Nice but quite cruxy. All in the feet (as always)!
with Tania T
2nd time. Nice but quite cruxy. All in the feet (as always)!
with Tania T
Lee_Meaden 12 Apr, 2015 Lead RP
Javis 2 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
with Oli_Ph
with Oli_Ph
dynoseb ??, 2015 Lead β Hardest thing ive flashed yet,watched a strong woman sail up it before I flashed it,was a bit desperate towards the end. Nice route.
Hardest thing ive flashed yet,watched a strong woman sail up it before I flashed it,was a bit desperate towards the end. Nice route.
Michael Allday 28 Sep, 2014 Lead β flash after belaying bruce very polished crux holds
flash after belaying bruce very polished crux holds
JM 29 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
Pete Scott 7 Aug, 2014 Lead RP
Murilo Lessa 3 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
with Danna
with Danna
Dan_Carroll 21 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
with Mateusz
with Mateusz
paultaylor 16 Jul, 2014 Lead rpt
Hidden 6 Jul, 2014 2nd dog
Hidden 6 Jul, 2014 Lead dog
MoWalker3 2 Jul, 2014 Lead dnf
paultaylor 31 May, 2014 Lead rpt
Pathological_Climber 26 May, 2014 Lead dnf
Sophie Nunn 16 May, 2014 Lead dog
with Tom T
with Tom T
Hidden 16 May, 2014 Lead dog
Montse Shelb 4 Nov, 2013 Lead RP crux is very technical, holds are very greasy but nice climb overall
crux is very technical, holds are very greasy but nice climb overall
Martin Bagshaw 23 Sep, 2013 Lead
with ipegg
with ipegg
ipegg 23 Sep, 2013 2nd
Stroppy 25 Aug, 2013 Lead dnf
RKirke 25 Aug, 2013 Lead RP
Graham Westbrook 22 Aug, 2013 Lead RP
paul ireland 7 Aug, 2013 Lead RP Great Climb tough on the fingers
Great Climb tough on the fingers
Jon_Warner 5 Aug, 2013 Lead RP Crux felt harder than Mr Choo Choo but could be condition dependant. Great route.
Crux felt harder than Mr Choo Choo but could be condition dependant. Great route.
Hidden 5 Aug, 2013 TR β
MarkRyder 7 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
with lee91
with lee91
Luxulyan 18 Jun, 2013 Lead RP
with Darryl
with Darryl
Sophie Nunn 18 Jun, 2013 Lead RP
with MartyJ
with MartyJ
Hidden ?Jun, 2013 Lead rpt
Jevans ?Jun, 2013 Lead RP
Mike Weatherill 23 May, 2013 Lead RP
Hidden 3 Nov, 2012 Lead dog
Stuart Johnston 25 Aug, 2012 Lead dog Very greasy!
Very greasy!
lewiz 18 Aug, 2012 Lead dog
with Klara Vlckova, Martin Holecek, kirsten
with Klara Vlckova, Martin Holecek, kirsten
Dibdawg 11 Aug, 2012 Lead β
with Dean177
with Dean177
Dean177 7 Aug, 2012 Lead dog
with Dibdawg
with Dibdawg
Hidden 21 Jul, 2012 Lead dog
cooperman 24 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
with Greg Foster
with Greg Foster
paultaylor 26 May, 2012 Lead O/S
with Paul R
with Paul R
Hidden 11 Mar, 2012 Lead RP
Hidden 22 Jan, 2012 Lead RP
Ian Bell 22 Jan, 2012 Lead dnf Couldn't do crux move past 3rd bolt.
with Sean Kenny
Couldn't do crux move past 3rd bolt.
with Sean Kenny
Ian Bell 22 Jan, 2012 TR dog
with Sean Kenny
with Sean Kenny
Hidden 23 Oct, 2011 Lead dog
Hidden 8 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 18 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
Dan Lane 18 Sep, 2011 Lead dog Not strong enough to get into the crux slot. Did it fine after sitting on the rope. good climbing.
Not strong enough to get into the crux slot. Did it fine after sitting on the rope. good climbing.
Hidden 7 Aug, 2011 Lead
gibsond 21 Jul, 2011 Lead RP Finally got it on second attempt and felt fairly comfortable.
Finally got it on second attempt and felt fairly comfortable.
gibsond 14 Jul, 2011 Lead dog Have worked out a new sequence for crux section. Was then too tired to pull it off clean. Should go next time.
with Mungo Etwo, Bisset
Have worked out a new sequence for crux section. Was then too tired to pull it off clean. Should go next time.
with Mungo Etwo, Bisset
MontyH 13 Jul, 2011 Lead
with pete frost
with pete frost
Sophie Nunn 16 Jun, 2011 Lead dog
gibsond 16 Jun, 2011 Lead dog Got my hand into the slot and then fell off! Next time.
Got my hand into the slot and then fell off! Next time.
Monkey_Alan 16 Jun, 2011 Lead rpt
gibsond 7 Jun, 2011 Lead dog
Monkey_Alan 7 Jun, 2011 Lead RP Got it. Took a few goes to remember the moves, but got there in the end.
with gibsond
Got it. Took a few goes to remember the moves, but got there in the end.
with gibsond
Hidden 22 May, 2011 Lead dog
Hidden 22 May, 2011 Lead RP
Monkey_Alan 22 May, 2011 Lead dog Flashed on TR, TRed again, went for the lead and had to rest on the crux. Had another go, slipped off and was too pumped to get back on again.
Flashed on TR, TRed again, went for the lead and had to rest on the crux. Had another go, slipped off and was too pumped to get back on again.
Hidden 21 May, 2011 TR
Hidden 13 May, 2011 Lead dog
gibsond 13 May, 2011 TR dnf Too tired to make the crux move.
with Bisset
Too tired to make the crux move.
with Bisset
Hidden 13 May, 2011 Lead dog
mes32 8 May, 2011 2nd dog Could do all the moves except the really difficult one past the 3rd bolt which I didn't manage perfectly. Hard work and beyond my level at the moment! Still, got to the top with some rests!
Could do all the moves except the really difficult one past the 3rd bolt which I didn't manage perfectly. Hard work and beyond my level at the moment! Still, got to the top with some rests!
will_benfold 8 May, 2011 TR dog
Hidden 4 Mar, 2011 Lead RP
Hidden 30 Jan, 2011 TR
duncan 23 Jan, 2011 Lead RP
cymjt ??, 2011 -
Peterjuliandawson 17 Jul, 2010 Lead RP
Hidden 11 Jul, 2010 Lead RP
ThomasB ?Jul, 2010 Lead RP
Hidden 3 May, 2010 Lead rpt
Hidden 3 May, 2010 Lead rpt
brian watson 2 Jan, 2010 Lead rpt
trev_f 28 Aug, 2009 Lead dog
with Ben H
with Ben H
strapless 28 Jun, 2009 Lead
jezb1 2 Feb, 2009 2nd dog
Ed Babs 31 Jan, 2009 Lead RP
bigie bob 18 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S
vertigo 4 Jul, 2008 Lead RP Finally! Went easily today.
Finally! Went easily today.
Jonny_86 28 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
with George Walley
with George Walley
Richard Horn 2 Mar, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 2 Mar, 2008 Lead β
Hidden 26 Dec, 2007 Lead rpt
dannyboy83 22 Jul, 2007 Lead O/S
MontyH 12 May, 2007 Lead O/S
with brian and lee
with brian and lee
Hidden 25 Mar, 2007 Lead O/S
Scott N ??, 2007 Lead RP
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
Hidden ??, 2007 -
Marti999 ??, 2006 Lead
duncan 9 Apr, 2004 Lead dog Wet
with Vladimir Arnoudov
Wet
with Vladimir Arnoudov
pezzerrr ??, 2004 Lead O/S
just one more 19 Apr, 2003 Lead
with tim b
with tim b
Mark Kemball 31 Oct, 2002 Lead dog
Hidden 21 Mar, 1999 Lead RP
Roget 28 Jul, 1998 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
Ally Smith ??, 1998 Lead O/S
JonBray ??, 1998 Lead O/S
Bruce Kerr 8 Apr, 1995 2nd
with geomac, Keith Turton
with geomac, Keith Turton
Hidden 2 Jan, 1995 Lead RP
steve taylor ??, 1995 Lead
Nigel Coe ??, 1993 Lead Approx date
Approx date
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Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 15
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set