Rockfax Description
A varied and interesting route up the leftward-leaning groove. Keep an eye on the footholds or things can quickly feel a lot harder. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Taylor 11.11.90 11/Nov/1990

Ticklists: Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Dancing Ledge apprenticeship, Dancing Ledge Sport Climbs.

Hidden 28/Jan Lead O/S
Sophie Nunn 28/Jan Lead dog
with Mike H, Brian
ElArt 11/Aug/16 Lead RP

Watched Sam work it first.

ian d f 11/Aug/16 TR O/S
with shunt
Sam4242 11/Aug/16 Lead RP
Laurence Everitt 17/Jul/16 Lead RP

Put a lot of tape on the middle two fingers on your left hand is my advice. This, like many other climbs in the new Rockfax Dorset guide should never have been given another star. Average at best.

Adam Willison 11/Jul/16 Lead β
bede.west 26/Jun/16 Lead RP

3rd go. o/s past crux relaxed and fell off, smashed my knee. waa

dbottomley 14/Jun/16 Lead RP
Alex Norman 14/Jun/16 Lead β
with Dan
aiyer 04/Jun/16 Lead dog

Absolutely shattered after numerous attempts on 'Double or Quits' so had nothing in the tank for this one. But fun moves and one to do clean on a day with fresh arms!

with Gavin
Ed.Laver 01/Jun/16 Lead β
with bede
paultaylor 20/May/16 Lead rpt
alexspurling 01/May/16 Lead dnf

Could not get past the crux. Someone will have to show me the beta

e9mark 23/Jul/15 Lead dnf
with barry
Joris.Roulleau 19/Jul/15 Lead RP
with Hamish Rose
Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead
hervenuttall ?/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with calum
Ian Bell 17/May/15 Lead RP

2nd time. Nice but quite cruxy. All in the feet (as always)!

with Tania T
Lee_Meaden 12/Apr/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 02/Apr/15 Lead O/S
dynoseb ??/2015 Lead β

Hardest thing ive flashed yet,watched a strong woman sail up it before I flashed it,was a bit desperate towards the end. Nice route.

Michael Allday 28/Sep/14 Lead β

flash after belaying bruce very polished crux holds

JM 29/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Stevo
Pete Scott 07/Aug/14 Lead RP
Murilo Lessa 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Danna
Dan_Carroll 21/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Mateusz
paultaylor 16/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 06/Jul/14 2nd dog
Hidden 06/Jul/14 Lead dog
MoWalker3 02/Jul/14 Lead dnf
paultaylor 31/May/14 Lead rpt
Pathological_Climber 26/May/14 Lead dnf
Sophie Nunn 16/May/14 Lead dog
with Tom T
Hidden 16/May/14 Lead dog
Montse Shelb 04/Nov/13 Lead RP

crux is very technical, holds are very greasy but nice climb overall

with Nathan
Martin Bagshaw 23/Sep/13 Lead
ipegg 23/Sep/13 2nd
Stroppy 25/Aug/13 Lead dnf
RKirke 25/Aug/13 Lead RP
Graham Westbrook 22/Aug/13 Lead RP
paul ireland 07/Aug/13 Lead RP

Great Climb tough on the fingers

Jon_Warner 05/Aug/13 Lead RP

Crux felt harder than Mr Choo Choo but could be condition dependant. Great route.

with Jonny
Hidden 05/Aug/13 TR β
MarkRyder 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Lee
Luxulyan 18/Jun/13 Lead RP
with Darryl
Sophie Nunn 18/Jun/13 Lead RP
with Martin
Hidden ?/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Jevans ?/Jun/13 Lead RP
Mike Weatherill 23/May/13 Lead
Hidden 03/Nov/12 Lead dog
Stuart Johnston 25/Aug/12 Lead dog

Very greasy!

lewiz 18/Aug/12 Lead dog
with Klara Vlckova, Martin Holecek, Kirsten Donovan
Dibdawg 11/Aug/12 Lead β
Dean177 07/Aug/12 Lead dog
Hidden 21/Jul/12 Lead dog
cooperman 24/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Greg Foster
paultaylor 26/May/12 Lead O/S
with Paul R
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead RP
Hidden 22/Jan/12 Lead RP
Ian Bell 22/Jan/12 Lead dnf

Couldn't do crux move past 3rd bolt.

with Sean Kenny
Ian Bell 22/Jan/12 TR dog
with Sean Kenny
Hidden 23/Oct/11 Lead dog
Hidden 08/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Dan Lane 18/Sep/11 Lead dog

Not strong enough to get into the crux slot. Did it fine after sitting on the rope. good climbing.

Hidden 07/Aug/11 Lead
gibsond 21/Jul/11 Lead RP

Finally got it on second attempt and felt fairly comfortable.

gibsond 14/Jul/11 Lead dog

Have worked out a new sequence for crux section. Was then too tired to pull it off clean. Should go next time.

with Mungo Etwo, James Bisset
MontyH 13/Jul/11 Lead
with pete frost
Sophie Nunn 16/Jun/11 Lead dog
with Darrel, Alan
gibsond 16/Jun/11 Lead dog

Got my hand into the slot and then fell off! Next time.

Monkey_Alan 16/Jun/11 Lead rpt
gibsond 07/Jun/11 Lead dog
Monkey_Alan 07/Jun/11 Lead RP

Got it. Took a few goes to remember the moves, but got there in the end.

Hidden 22/May/11 Lead dog
Hidden 22/May/11 Lead RP
Monkey_Alan 22/May/11 Lead dog

Flashed on TR, TRed again, went for the lead and had to rest on the crux. Had another go, slipped off and was too pumped to get back on again.

Hidden 21/May/11 TR
Hidden 13/May/11 Lead dog
gibsond 13/May/11 TR dnf

Too tired to make the crux move.

Hidden 13/May/11 Lead dog
mes32 08/May/11 2nd dog

Could do all the moves except the really difficult one past the 3rd bolt which I didn't manage perfectly. Hard work and beyond my level at the moment! Still, got to the top with some rests!

will_benfold 08/May/11 TR dog
Hidden 04/Mar/11 Lead RP
Hidden 30/Jan/11 TR
duncan 23/Jan/11 Lead RP
cymjt ??/2011 -
Peterjuliandawson 17/Jul/10 Lead RP
Hidden 11/Jul/10 Lead RP
ThomasB ?/Jul/10 Lead RP
Hidden 03/May/10 Lead rpt
The Jazz Butcher 03/May/10 Lead rpt
with Bern
brian watson 02/Jan/10 Lead rpt
trev_f 28/Aug/09 Lead dog
with Ben H
strapless 28/Jun/09 Lead
jezb1 02/Feb/09 2nd dog
Ed Babs 31/Jan/09 Lead RP
bigie bob 18/Jul/08 Lead O/S
vertigo 04/Jul/08 Lead RP

Finally! Went easily today.

Hidden 28/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Richard Horn 02/Mar/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Mar/08 Lead β
Hidden 26/Dec/07 Lead rpt
dannyboy83 22/Jul/07 Lead O/S
MontyH 12/May/07 Lead O/S
with brian and lee
Hidden 25/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Scott N ??/2007 Lead RP
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
The Jazz Butcher ??/2007 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
duncan 09/Apr/04 Lead dog


with Vladimir Arnoudov
pezzerrr ??/2004 Lead O/S
just one more 19/Apr/03 Lead
with tim b
Mark Kemball 31/Oct/02 Lead dog
Roget 28/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with jon
JonBray ??/1998 Lead O/S
Bruce Kerr 08/Apr/95 2nd
with George MacIntyre, Keith Turton
Hidden 02/Jan/95 Lead RP
steve taylor ??/1995 Lead
Nigel Coe ??/1993 Lead

Approx date

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High 6c+
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Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
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High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 13
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set