17m.

Rockfax Description
A good test-piece with a distinct crux. Use a knee-bar at the roof. The extension is the longest and most pumpy route at Dancing Ledge Quarry - Extremely Fat Chance Hotel 7b+. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 20.4.88 20/Apr/1988

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Dancing Ledge apprenticeship, Dancing Ledge Sport Climbs

Feedback

UserDateNotes
JIMBO 12 Dec, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Crafty knee-bars, bridging and general jessery makes this route very reasonable. After virtualy every move is a good rest...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Crafty knee-bars, bridging and general jessery makes this route very reasonable. After virtualy every move is a good rest...
JIMBO 11 Dec, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Is it 7b+? NO, can't be has been soloed by myself (and Pete who soloed it first)...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Is it 7b+? NO, can't be has been soloed by myself (and Pete who soloed it first)...
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
samparsons 26 Oct, 2018 Lead dog Worked out the beta, but need more energy.
Worked out the beta, but need more energy.
Tom Livingstone 26 Oct, 2018 Lead dog
with Sam Parsons
with Sam Parsons
AJM 25 Sep, 2018 Lead dog Managed to get the kneebar in intermittently, but never really sorted how to move the left hand into the groove.
with Ed Babs
Managed to get the kneebar in intermittently, but never really sorted how to move the left hand into the groove.
with Ed Babs
Shane Willis 15 Sep, 2018 Lead RP First tried this about 3 years ago and badly sprained my ankle in the kneebar. Never intended to get on it again, but sent it today and it feels sooo satisfying!
with EveC995
First tried this about 3 years ago and badly sprained my ankle in the kneebar. Never intended to get on it again, but sent it today and it feels sooo satisfying!
with EveC995
Ed Babs 4 Sep, 2018 Lead dog No chance hotel
No chance hotel
nickmoulden 7 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
with zoe bidula
with zoe bidula
paultaylor 2 Jul, 2018 Lead dog
Hidden 26 Nov, 2017 Lead RP
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 5 Nov, 2017 Lead rpt
Hidden 19 Aug, 2017 TR dog
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 14 Aug, 2017 Lead rpt
Hidden 14 Aug, 2017 2nd dog
Hidden 20 Jul, 2017 TR dog
Hidden 12 Jul, 2017 TR dog
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 1 Jul, 2017 Lead RP
Hidden 7 Jan, 2017 Lead
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 22 Aug, 2016 2nd All the moves putting the draws in then the day was cut short by a nearby climbed deciding to jump into the ground and break his ankle. Great moves with a nice knee bar!
All the moves putting the draws in then the day was cut short by a nearby climbed deciding to jump into the ground and break his ankle. Great moves with a nice knee bar!
BenL 12 Sep, 2015 Lead RP Had no idea how to get the knee bar to work but it's still climbable without it
with Emma
Had no idea how to get the knee bar to work but it's still climbable without it
with Emma
Marcus 16 May, 2015 TR Clean on a top rope for first time - mainly because I got the knee bar to work for the first time. Need to be just a little bit stronger to lead it for clipping and to position the knee properly, which takes quite a lot of raw power.
Clean on a top rope for first time - mainly because I got the knee bar to work for the first time. Need to be just a little bit stronger to lead it for clipping and to position the knee properly, which takes quite a lot of raw power.
Matt.c.Warner ?Jun, 2014 -
Swampy167 30 May, 2014 Lead dnf
Hidden 16 Sep, 2012 TR dog
Hidden 16 Sep, 2012 TR dog
Hidden 30 Aug, 2012 Lead dog
Hidden 24 Dec, 2011 Lead RP
Hidden 18 Dec, 2011 TR dog
Hidden 9 Dec, 2011 TR dog
Hidden 28 Aug, 2011 Lead
jon_gill1 14 Aug, 2011 2nd dog a good experience to know what an overhung 7b+ feels like!thanx goes to Dave for letting me have a go!
with dave?
a good experience to know what an overhung 7b+ feels like!thanx goes to Dave for letting me have a go!
with dave?
rubben 18 Jul, 2010 Lead Couldn't work the knee bar at all?!
with Marcus O'Leary
Couldn't work the knee bar at all?!
with Marcus O'Leary
Matt Shepherd 15 Sep, 2009 Lead rpt
pezzerrr 30 Dec, 2008 Lead RP
dannyboy83 27 Jan, 2008 Lead RP
with dmoir
with dmoir
Martin Krasnansky 16 Aug, 2007 Lead RP to the top .Good staff!
to the top .Good staff!
bigie bob 16 Dec, 2006 Lead RP
feeko ?Dec, 2006 Lead RP
Hidden 28 Jun, 2006 Lead RP
Hidden 28 Aug, 1998 Solo RP
Hidden 18 Apr, 1998 Lead RP
Hidden ??, 1997 -
10 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 12
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Dogged
Redpoint
Repeated
DNF
Onsighted
Not Set