The landowners have requested no more bolting or group use in the West Quarry.
User attention
The landowner has temporarily closed off access to the western part of the crag while they investigate reports of geological instability. They have stated that this closure is currently temporary and will be updating the BMC once the investigation has taken place. In the meantime please do not access or climb here. The coastgaurd has indicated that given the potentialy dangerous condition of the crag they would not send in rescuers should an emergency arise whilst thie closure is in place. from 18/04/2023
Rockfax Description
An entertaining, big and burly roof climb starting from the right-hand pile of boulders in the centre of the cave. A good knee-bar above the large roof gives a quick hands-off rest. The first bolt might need to be stick-clipped by the short. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Oxley 05/Jun/1994.
Winspit apprenticeship , Winspit Sport Climbs , South Side Sport , Winspit Sport Climbs , Swanage Sport Routes
User | Date | Notes | ||
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brian watson | 28 Mar, 2021 |
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βeta: Foot hold missing from above lip of roof, making knee bar more difficult. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Foot hold missing from above lip of roof, making knee bar more difficult. |
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samparsons | 8 Nov, 2020 |
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βeta: Beta Video: https://youtu.be/O4j4XLmybm4 | ||
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βeta: Beta Video: https://youtu.be/O4j4XLmybm4 |
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Richard Horn | 13 Aug, 2007 |
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βeta: The clip is easiest from a foot lock in the crack above the roof - although this method is potentially also the scariest! | βeta? | |
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βeta: The clip is easiest from a foot lock in the crack above the roof - although this method is potentially also the scariest! |
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JIMBO | 11 Dec, 2002 |
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βeta: The clip over the roof is hard to make if short. Either climb past it before clipping or tape a long extender down closer and in reach... | βeta? | |
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βeta: The clip over the roof is hard to make if short. Either climb past it before clipping or tape a long extender down closer and in reach... |
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Grade: 7c ***
(The Cuttings)