20m.

Rockfax Description
An entertaining, big and burly roof climb starting from the right-hand pile of boulders in the centre of the cave. A good knee-bar above the large roof gives a quick hands-off rest. The first bolt might need to be stick-clipped by the short. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 05/Jun/1994

Ticklists

Winspit apprenticeship, Winspit Sport Climbs, South Side Sport

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Richard Horn 13 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: The clip is easiest from a foot lock in the crack above the roof - although this method is potentially also the scariest!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The clip is easiest from a foot lock in the crack above the roof - although this method is potentially also the scariest!
JIMBO 11 Dec, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: The clip over the roof is hard to make if short. Either climb past it before clipping or tape a long extender down closer and in reach...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The clip over the roof is hard to make if short. Either climb past it before clipping or tape a long extender down closer and in reach...
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Sam Head 8 Oct Lead RP Great route, loads of fun 3rd try, quickest 7c so far
Great route, loads of fun 3rd try, quickest 7c so far
Graham Westbrook 8 Oct Lead RP 1st RP. Great climbing. Made up new beta on the red point which worked a dream.
1st RP. Great climbing. Made up new beta on the red point which worked a dream.
hankyc 26 Jul Lead RP
Spatchcock 22 Jun Lead
ilikemonkys 25 May -
will6459 25 May Lead RP
ThomasB 13 Apr Lead RP
samparsons 30 Nov, 2018 Lead RP I had a go to just under the knee bar years ago. Then put the draws in today and got it straight after! Quickest 7c!
I had a go to just under the knee bar years ago. Then put the draws in today and got it straight after! Quickest 7c!
Ed Babs 27 Oct, 2018 Lead RP 27 Dec 2017 with Brian. Possible. 14 Aug 2018 with Andy. Probable. Another time with Eddy and 22 October 2018 with Dan Browne - left dangling from my pinkie both times. Ow. 26 October finally done. In the great tradition of Joe Brown et al a pebble in the base of crack above the roof prevented pinkie agony.
27 Dec 2017 with Brian. Possible. 14 Aug 2018 with Andy. Probable. Another time with Eddy and 22 October 2018 with Dan Browne - left dangling from my pinkie both times. Ow. 26 October finally done. In the great tradition of Joe Brown et al a pebble in the base of crack above the roof prevented pinkie agony.
Hidden 22 Oct, 2018 TR dog
Hidden 30 Sep, 2018 Lead RP
Hidden 15 Sep, 2018 Lead dog
AJM 9 Sep, 2018 Lead RP Tried with Ed a few weeks back. Today, one trip up it to get the draws in then second redpoint. Cool route.
Tried with Ed a few weeks back. Today, one trip up it to get the draws in then second redpoint. Cool route.
brian watson 9 Sep, 2018 Lead dog After a refresh, it nearly went on redpoint attempt !! I was so surprised after getting into the 2nd knee bar I lost the plot and fell off :-D
with AJM
After a refresh, it nearly went on redpoint attempt !! I was so surprised after getting into the 2nd knee bar I lost the plot and fell off :-D
with AJM
Beefy Bert 25 Aug, 2018 Lead RP
The Jazz Butcher 25 Aug, 2018 Lead rpt
AJM 14 Aug, 2018 Lead dog 2 trips, plus a third where my arm cramped. Coming together well.
with Ed Babs
2 trips, plus a third where my arm cramped. Coming together well.
with Ed Babs
Stroppy 17 Jun, 2018 Lead dog Wild, couldn't get my knee into the knee bar. One to come back to for sure.
Wild, couldn't get my knee into the knee bar. One to come back to for sure.
brian watson 27 Dec, 2017 Lead dog Got all the moves sorted just need to put it all together, if that's 7c it's soft as IMO.
with Ed Babs
Got all the moves sorted just need to put it all together, if that's 7c it's soft as IMO.
with Ed Babs
Ellis Bird ??, 2017 Lead
ricci.andrea86 ?Nov, 2016 Lead RP 2nd go. Double knee bar and a bit of grunting to pass the corner.
2nd go. Double knee bar and a bit of grunting to pass the corner.
treesrockice 16 Sep, 2016 Lead RP 1st of the grade! 4 or 5 sessions i think, forgot to count redpoint burns. First clip in to make the boulder pile safer.
1st of the grade! 4 or 5 sessions i think, forgot to count redpoint burns. First clip in to make the boulder pile safer.
AJM 21 Jun, 2016 Lead dog
with AllyBee
with AllyBee
chris_woodsy 29 May, 2016 Lead RP 2nd rp thank's to some stella beta from Ango and Lloydie. Big first moves with a difficult clip, then eases off.
with Widda
2nd rp thank's to some stella beta from Ango and Lloydie. Big first moves with a difficult clip, then eases off.
with Widda
BenL 25 May, 2016 Lead RP
with Angus Webb
with Angus Webb
Hidden 23 Apr, 2016 Lead RP
feilx 19 Feb, 2016 Lead rpt
with AlexD
with AlexD
AlexD 19 Feb, 2016 2nd dnf Nice finishing groove, had to pull on a lot of draws to get there though!
with feilx
Nice finishing groove, had to pull on a lot of draws to get there though!
with feilx
Ramon Marin 20 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S Did it first go, had worked happy feet, the right hand finish. Harsh at 7b+, i think 7c is fair
with viki harvey
Did it first go, had worked happy feet, the right hand finish. Harsh at 7b+, i think 7c is fair
with viki harvey
Granitemuncher 15 Aug, 2015 Lead RP I really like this climb, very varied. save some for the headwall!. took like 3 goes.
with Charly Catalan
I really like this climb, very varied. save some for the headwall!. took like 3 goes.
with Charly Catalan
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 29 Jul, 2015 Lead RP 1st redpoint today, 4th overall. Defiantly one of the tougher ones on this wall for me, took more goes than souls! Sussed the knee bar move, very good climbing.
1st redpoint today, 4th overall. Defiantly one of the tougher ones on this wall for me, took more goes than souls! Sussed the knee bar move, very good climbing.
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 23 Jul, 2015 Lead dog
thomasmouse 21 Jun, 2015 Lead RP
with Alexius Vivian, Camilla Barnard, monkeymajik
with Alexius Vivian, Camilla Barnard, monkeymajik
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 21 Apr, 2015 Lead Big undercut to top onsight and fell first red point on the last move getting into the undercut. Good moves through the roof which were easier than I expected. Someone has flattened all the cairns so had to build it back up - it's pretty unstable but will make better next visit.
Big undercut to top onsight and fell first red point on the last move getting into the undercut. Good moves through the roof which were easier than I expected. Someone has flattened all the cairns so had to build it back up - it's pretty unstable but will make better next visit.
Alex moore 23 Aug, 2014 Lead
Matt.c.Warner ?Aug, 2014 Lead RP
with fred
with fred
Hidden 23 Mar, 2014 Lead RP
dan gibson 23 Mar, 2014 Lead β
Kris suriyo 29 Dec, 2013 Lead RP First RP good route
First RP good route
Hidden 14 Dec, 2013 Lead RP
Hidden 8 Dec, 2013 Lead dog
trev_f 12 Jul, 2013 Lead RP
trev_f 22 Jun, 2013 Lead dog
with vic, Barry Kerslake, Mike H
with vic, Barry Kerslake, Mike H
Hidden ?Nov, 2012 Lead RP
Ged Desforges ??, 2012 - Outstanding route. Climbs like a hard granite route. we decided 5.12 was a better description than 7b+. Once you figure out the knee bar its in the bag. Definitely take a clip stick, the pile of rocks is pretty unstable.
Outstanding route. Climbs like a hard granite route. we decided 5.12 was a better description than 7b+. Once you figure out the knee bar its in the bag. Definitely take a clip stick, the pile of rocks is pretty unstable.
cayteye 1 Aug, 2011 TR dnf
hamer89 21 Jul, 2010 Lead RP
Martin Krasnansky 26 Apr, 2009 Lead RP
dannyboy83 9 Nov, 2008 Lead RP
hippo99 19 Jul, 2008 Lead RP
with owen, joe doyel, sam, jon
with owen, joe doyel, sam, jon
Hidden 4 Nov, 2007 Lead rpt
Richard Horn 10 Aug, 2007 Lead RP Took 6 visits in the end...
Took 6 visits in the end...
La Mont ?May, 2007 Lead β
feilx 18 Mar, 2007 Lead RP
Hidden ??, 2007 Lead dog
The Jazz Butcher ??, 2007 -
bigie bob 16 Sep, 2006 Lead RP
Rob Kennard ??, 2006 -
feeko ??, 2006 -
Hidden 19 Nov, 2005 Lead RP
Hidden ??, 2001 Lead RP
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Voting
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 17
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Onsighted
Not Set