UKC

Restricted Access

The climbing on Stair Hole, Dungy Head and Durdle Door all fall within an area of land mapped as Open Access under CRoW. Climbing is a permitted activity under the CRoW legislation so there is a legal right of access to all three areas for climbers, walkers and members of the public.

A climbers code of conduct has been developed to help address concerns about conflict between climbers, members of the public and nesting birds - please follow the guidelines closely. Please take a discrete approach to climbing in the area which periodically attracts negative attention through tombstoning and the resulting injuries and rescues. Climbing and DWS are clearly different and permitted here, but can be caught up in media stories about tombstoning, so make an effort to keep a low profile so as not to encourage members of the public to have a go.

For safety reasons, there is no public access to the military ranges east of Lulworth Cove (which are used for live firing), other than on days when the ranges are open due to firing not taking place and even then only the marked path can be used. This means that no climbing can be accessed within the ranges at any time as it would necessitate walking off of the marked path.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Protected birds have been known to nest on crags in the area (in particular Dungy Head) in the past. Please observe any on site signage regarding restrictions if the birds do return.
10m.

Rockfax Description
6a+, S0. From sea level, move right and climb a steep corner/groove just left of a blunt arete. © Rockfax

FA. Joff Cook 21/Jul/1991.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Alex More 30 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: This route climbs through the groove on pockets to left of Anarchy Stampede, slightly easier at 6a+.
βeta?
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βeta: This route climbs through the groove on pockets to left of Anarchy Stampede, slightly easier at 6a+.
Pythonist 22 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Big holds, fairly big moves... can't say it was particularly interesting (and a bit short to boot). But then, there were people repeatedly falling off Horny Lil' Devil when I did it...
βeta?
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βeta: Big holds, fairly big moves... can't say it was particularly interesting (and a bit short to boot). But then, there were people repeatedly falling off Horny Lil' Devil when I did it...
steve taylor 7 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The arete (as described) is Despicable Terrier (F7a+) FA Mark Williams.
βeta?
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βeta: The arete (as described) is Despicable Terrier (F7a+) FA Mark Williams.
Ben Stokes 28 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Actually you climb a groove.
βeta?
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βeta: Actually you climb a groove.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Lulworth

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 8
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
DWS
Soloed
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Buccaneer

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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