UKC

Restricted Access

The climbing on Stair Hole, Dungy Head and Durdle Door all fall within an area of land mapped as Open Access under CRoW. Climbing is a permitted activity under the CRoW legislation so there is a legal right of access to all three areas for climbers, walkers and members of the public.

A climbers code of conduct has been developed to help address concerns about conflict between climbers, members of the public and nesting birds - please follow the guidelines closely. Please take a discrete approach to climbing in the area which periodically attracts negative attention through tombstoning and the resulting injuries and rescues. Climbing and DWS are clearly different and permitted here, but can be caught up in media stories about tombstoning, so make an effort to keep a low profile so as not to encourage members of the public to have a go.

For safety reasons, there is no public access to the military ranges east of Lulworth Cove (which are used for live firing), other than on days when the ranges are open due to firing not taking place and even then only the marked path can be used. This means that no climbing can be accessed within the ranges at any time as it would necessitate walking off of the marked path.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Protected birds have been known to nest on crags in the area (in particular Dungy Head) in the past. Please observe any on site signage regarding restrictions if the birds do return.
15m.

Rockfax Description
S1. The fantastic sustained central line which involves some highly dynamic climbing. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 20.5.1992. First repeat was soloed by Richard Bingham.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , A lifetimes worth of inspiration , UK 8a and up , Dorset DWS progression , DWS 8a and up , Steep UK Sport Routes , South England DWS Dreams

Feedback

User Date Notes
remus 14 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The blocky hold out left after the dyno is pretty wobbly. Think it's been like this for a while, but a bit of glue might be a sensible precaution as it could substantially change the route if it was lost to the sea.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The blocky hold out left after the dyno is pretty wobbly. Think it's been like this for a while, but a bit of glue might be a sensible precaution as it could substantially change the route if it was lost to the sea.
craig d 14 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Sorry Rich, i thought i had read somewhere that you had, my mistake. It was a good effort, Adrenchrome is on my list to do if i ever make it back down to the south coast.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Sorry Rich, i thought i had read somewhere that you had, my mistake. It was a good effort, Adrenchrome is on my list to do if i ever make it back down to the south coast.
craig d 24 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I thought Rich redpointed it before he soloed it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I thought Rich redpointed it before he soloed it.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
DWS
Soloed
Lead
Not Set
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Under Duress

Grade: 8a ***
(The Cuttings)

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