UKC

48m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Intricate route finding in wild positions - an underrated classic which needs a steady second. Be aware of the state of the old fixed gear and back it up.
1) 5b, 15m. Leave the Castellan Cave along the lower break, as for Delicatessen, to the stance on Lyme Cryme.
2) 5c, 15m. Traverse back left for 2m and pull up into a shallow groove from the right. Climb the groove (slightly bold) to gain a crack leading to a bong (a big old peg). Clip this then drop back down and make a hard finger-traverse left to a stance on Laurin. There are good thread belays under the roof above.
3) 5c, 18m. Climb to the roof and undercut leftwards (peg) under the roof. Finish up the loose groove (old gear).
An alternative is The Phrantic Finish, E3 5c which is now included in Party in the Park. Tackle the roof direct to a good hold on the lip. © Rockfax

FFA. Pete Livesey, Pete Gomersall 1975. FA. Charles David Yates, Steve Read 1974..

Ticklists

World Graded List, Ultimate E3 ticklist, Definitive *** Peak Lime

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User Date Notes
Ian Parnell 12 Sep Show βeta
βeta: The bong is no more but good pro is available in the same spot
Show beta
βeta: The bong is no more but good pro is available in the same spot
chopkins 16 Jan Show βeta
βeta: To Johny CV, I was the one who updated Charlie Yates details on UKC in 2005. I climbed with him at school and back in the 70’s. I can be contacted at colin.hopkins@mac.com as you haven’t given an email address.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: To Johny CV, I was the one who updated Charlie Yates details on UKC in 2005. I climbed with him at school and back in the 70’s. I can be contacted at colin.hopkins@mac.com as you haven’t given an email address.
Johny CV 10 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Hi Alan, Can you tell me where you learned about Charles Yates from? He was a close family friend of mines son and I’d love to get some more information about him (I’ve got his old ice hammer!).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hi Alan, Can you tell me where you learned about Charles Yates from? He was a close family friend of mines son and I’d love to get some more information about him (I’ve got his old ice hammer!).
phatlad 19 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Yet another 3 * classic on the best crag around! OK best in the Peak then
βeta?
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βeta: Yet another 3 * classic on the best crag around! OK best in the Peak then
Alan James - UKC and UKH 24 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I have been informed that the real name of the first aided asensionist was Charles David Yates who styled himself as 'Charlie Halton-Yates'. Sadly he died on 7th July 1974 in a fall from the Preuss Couloir in the Dolomites at the age of 19.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I have been informed that the real name of the first aided asensionist was Charles David Yates who styled himself as 'Charlie Halton-Yates'. Sadly he died on 7th July 1974 in a fall from the Preuss Couloir in the Dolomites at the age of 19.
simon cox 12 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I did the Phrantic Phinish which was in keeping with the rest of the route i.e. E3
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I did the Phrantic Phinish which was in keeping with the rest of the route i.e. E3

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Darius

Grade: E3 5c ***
(High Tor)
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