UKC

Restricted Access

High Tor is managed by Derbyshire Dales Distict Council (DDDC) and there is a regular wardening service in operation. There are no major access problems at High Tor, but climbers should take careful note of the following agreed guidelines: 

  • With the exception of the tree at the top of Castelan, do not abseil from trees at the top.
  • Please walk down using the well established paths and don't cut corners.
  • When belaying above Darius/Robert Brown please use natural belays, stakes or in-situ pegs rather than the safety sign or the fence - the area is a popular look-out spot with the general public and ropes can cause a trip hazard.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

High Tor is a SSSI of extremely high botanical value with some very rare grasses and plants located around the crag. Climbers are requested to be especially careful not to trample grass at the base of the crag and to stick to the established paths so as not to damage plants on the wooded approaches.

35m.

Rockfax Description
High quality climbing up a tenuous line on the blank wall left of Flaky Wall, with spaced protection and a lonely feel. Move cunningly rightwards from the old tree (peg) to join the overlap of Flaky Wall. Cross this to the rest then climb boldly up discontinuous flakes, bearing left to the thread on Talwes... Keep going up pockets staying just left of Supersonic. © Rockfax

FA. Simon Nadin, Richard Davies 1985. Straightened out a route called Musical Women which was a weird hybrid on Decadence..

Ticklists

Peak Rock/15/The Dawn of Sport:A Bolt From the Blue , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Great Wall Climbs of the UK , Four years of university hit list , Hard Peak Limestone Trad , The Festival Of Shite

Feedback

User Date Notes
Graham Hoey 10 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Cleaned the nut placements out on this (July 2003). Good gear if you have the tenacity to hang on, find it, place it and then keep going. That said there are two hands-off rests, one on Flaky and one on the ramp of Decadence. Superb climbing, the best route on the shield.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Cleaned the nut placements out on this (July 2003). Good gear if you have the tenacity to hang on, find it, place it and then keep going. That said there are two hands-off rests, one on Flaky and one on the ramp of Decadence. Superb climbing, the best route on the shield.

Logged Ascents

33 users have logged this

Guidebooks for High Tor

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Voting
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 10
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
O'Grady's Incurable Itch

Grade: E6 7a ***
(Tintwistle Knarr)

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