UKC

Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

Rockfax Description
Climb the left-hand side of the Pregnant Pause arete, starting as for Pregnant Pause. © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson May/2007.

Ticklists

Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
joekoruk 10 Dec, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Full of rusty screwgates and malleons. Looks like people have bailed lots. Actually a very good route, but shame about the extra metal work. Makes clipping hard or dangerous in places. Someone needs to go down with angle grinder!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Full of rusty screwgates and malleons. Looks like people have bailed lots. Actually a very good route, but shame about the extra metal work. Makes clipping hard or dangerous in places. Someone needs to go down with angle grinder!
brian watson 10 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: quite pleasant, a touch of choss.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: quite pleasant, a touch of choss.

Logged Ascents

59 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Blacknor Central

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 14 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Walking the King

Grade: 6b+ ***
(Coastguard South)

Loading Notifications...