Rockfax Description
A towering, adventurous route that combines diverse climbing with a serious situation. Dry conditions are essential. The base is reached via abseil or, in calm sea conditions, at low tide via a sea-level traverse. Start on sea level ledges at the left edge of the lower wall below a corner.
1) 5b, 26m. Climb leftwards, easy but serious, to an old peg on the left. Traverse right two metres and climb a short, bold wall to reach the safety of a niche. Follow the awkward, wide crack above to its end at a stance and spike belay.
2) 5b, 40m. A poorly protected pitch. Move up the slab to where it starts to steepen and move left towards its edge. Climb up and pass a blanker section on the right, to reach a dodgy flake. Move left, back towards the arete, and follow the slab to a stance below the upper buttress.
3) 5c, 25m. Climb up a groove on the left and enter a corner above it. Move up a short way and traverse the steep wall on the right, around an arete, to a steep corner that is climbed to a ledge and a large bird's nest. Move left and climb very steep ground to a ledge. Follow the thin crack above it to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, UK Lonely Leads, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.)

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Dan Arkle 18 Aug, 2018 2nd scary just to 2nd
scary just to 2nd
Katekeltie 25 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S Crazy positions- so exposed- 2nd and 3rd pitch! Wild climbing, exciting to second.
Crazy positions- so exposed- 2nd and 3rd pitch! Wild climbing, exciting to second.
Flavio 16 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S A life affirming experience... Terrified from the start, seeing the ab rope repeatedly damaged set the mood. All 3 pitches and glad I didn't get the slab one, top pitch is incredible but don't fall off. Went for a beer with eyes on stalks at a time we would usually go down for at least another route or two...
A life affirming experience... Terrified from the start, seeing the ab rope repeatedly damaged set the mood. All 3 pitches and glad I didn't get the slab one, top pitch is incredible but don't fall off. Went for a beer with eyes on stalks at a time we would usually go down for at least another route or two...
JendeHoxar 16 Apr, 2017 AltLd There are some routes that you just know you're never going to forget
with Flavio
There are some routes that you just know you're never going to forget
with Flavio
Hidden ?Jul, 2016 2nd O/S
ferdia 11 Jul, 2015 2nd top 2 pitches only due to tides. should have brought wellies to be able to wallow more fulsomely in the bird shit. scary top pitch even on second!
with Howard Lawledge, Pete Graham
top 2 pitches only due to tides. should have brought wellies to be able to wallow more fulsomely in the bird shit. scary top pitch even on second!
with Howard Lawledge, Pete Graham
JBO 21 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Never been so scared on a route in my life. Felt very out there moving up the arĂȘte a long way from my gear cluster. Second pitch is also rather bold.
Never been so scared on a route in my life. Felt very out there moving up the arĂȘte a long way from my gear cluster. Second pitch is also rather bold.
Hidden 3 Jul, 2014 -
tim newton 25 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S lead all 3 pitches, abseil approach. The final pitch is just brilliant. Climbed in the evening sun and belayed on top totally satisfied as the sun set.
lead all 3 pitches, abseil approach. The final pitch is just brilliant. Climbed in the evening sun and belayed on top totally satisfied as the sun set.
markalmack 27 May, 2014 AltLd O/S got shat on while on the mega run-out second pitch. Good effort by jimmy on the top pitch. not sure im into this "adventure" climbing.
with james marjot
got shat on while on the mega run-out second pitch. Good effort by jimmy on the top pitch. not sure im into this "adventure" climbing.
with james marjot
kingholmesy ??, 2014 Lead O/S Led all 3 pitches. A grand day out.
with Colin
Led all 3 pitches. A grand day out.
with Colin
Brown 6 Sep, 2012 AltLd
with Andy R
with Andy R
duncan 19 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S The proper approach, no cheating abseil.
with Dan Donovan
The proper approach, no cheating abseil.
with Dan Donovan
mwatson ??, 2011 Lead O/S joined ropes not needed, it is possible to abseil to the top of the first pitch off the stakes at the top.
joined ropes not needed, it is possible to abseil to the top of the first pitch off the stakes at the top.
jfletcher 24 May, 2010 AltLd O/S Gulp inducing abseil in! See photo.
Gulp inducing abseil in! See photo.
Graham Atkins ??, 2010 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Sam Underhill
with Sam Underhill
JulesV ??, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Mar, 2006 AltLd O/S
tuftynick ??, 2005 AltLd O/S
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ??, 2005 AltLd
with Ian Hey, tuftynick
with Ian Hey, tuftynick
Luke pavey ??, 2001 AltLd O/S Best route I've ever done has everything you'd expect from such an amazing crag and you can't help but think of Littlejohn and Derbyshire's first ascent bold with knobs on
Best route I've ever done has everything you'd expect from such an amazing crag and you can't help but think of Littlejohn and Derbyshire's first ascent bold with knobs on
Hidden 18 Aug, 1996 Lead O/S
mattnuttall 23 Jul, 1994 AltLd O/S
with Alan Holden
with Alan Holden
frank ramsay 14 Jul, 1990 AltLd same day as guernica. original approach.
same day as guernica. original approach.
ecowaller ??, 1988 Lead O/S An amazing climb, one of my favourite climbing memories
with Wendy Sampson
An amazing climb, one of my favourite climbing memories
with Wendy Sampson
William Robertson ??, 1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Marcus ??, 1980 -
Marcus ??, 1980 -
Hidden 11 Aug, 1978 AltLd
pete osullivan ?Apr, 1978 2nd A very early ascent. A great experience, the slab pitch was barely protected and the top pitch was astonishing
with Nipper Harrison
A very early ascent. A great experience, the slab pitch was barely protected and the top pitch was astonishing
with Nipper Harrison
30 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E5
Mid E5
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 7
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set