Rockfax Description
A very spectacular and exposed traverse of the Triple Buttress that has the benefit of being non-tidal and a good distance above the sea at all times. However, the situations are serious and the rock needs careful handling with regard to both the climbing and the setting up of belays. Take plenty of slings for tying-off bollards, spikes and threads. Start above a ramp on the landward side of the descent to the top of C Buttress.
1) 22m. Downclimb the easy ramp to a ledge and belay.
2) 4c, 21m. Move down the ramp for a further 5m then climb leftwards up the wall until level with the belay. Move up again before traversing left steeply to the arete and a belay just beyond.
3) 4c, 20m. Step down and move across grooves to a corner. Descend the wall left to an exposed stance and belay on the arete.
4) 4c, 40m. A wild-looking pitch for both leader and second. Traverse into the corner and traverse left across its opposite wall above an overhang to an arete. Move up the arete for 6m to a stance and belay.
5) 4c, 25m. Move up and climb leftwards to reach and climb a diagonal line across the wall until steeper moves lead to a position just before a big corner. Finish straight up via the left-hand side of a block. Stake belay. © Rockfax

Ticklists: HVS Adventures, West Country Climbs, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings, Best Mid Grade Sea Cliff Traverses.

steveprice.exmouth 13/Aug AltLd

Led P1 only. I think we went too far right on P5 - rock was very temporary....

with David Coley
LoneDeranger 10/Aug AltLd O/S

Wild. Search inspiration for name of route before embarking. Enter Journey as a boy/girl warrior; leave as sorcerers.

with Tom
Hidden 10/Aug AltLd O/S
simibrown 18/Jun AltLd

Completed with extra care on second attempt. on 1st attempt I took a fall after a large block pulled off in my hand near the 1st belay.

with ken, Rich
kenhansard 18/Jun AltLd

Don't trust any holds! Friable loose. Simon took a fall after hold exploded. Best pro is slings

with simibrown, Rich bull
petecallaghan 21/May AltLd O/S

Spectacular route. The climbing is around VS, but the situation is serious. Note the dangerous large loose block at the stance for the start of P5. It is held in place by a small pinnacle. Do not stand on it or attempt to incorporate it into your anchor. Lead pitches 2 and 4. Avoided rope drag with slings on every piece of gear. The stake is a myth.

with Tim
timreynolds 21/May AltLd O/S

Amazing. P1, 3 & 5. No stake at top.

suds_01 19/Apr AltLd O/S
with Tom Horton
Hidden 02/Nov/16 AltLd O/S
Norman_P_W 06/Sep/16 AltLd
with Bob M
Bob M 06/Sep/16 AltLd

Led 2 and 4. A great trip on amazing rock and very atmospheric with big waves rolling in below. The traverse pitches were fairly easy but the final pitch was much harder and steeper on greasy rock.

johncoxmysteriously 14/Jul/16 AltLd

It you like this sort of thing, it's the sort of thing you'll like, as they say. Useful to take a lot of long slings, and also for both members of the party to be of equal competence. The climbing is about 4a and the rock and gear not too bad, but all the same it's not one to be dogging. Nowhere near as alarming as it looks from the gearing-up spot before the sun gets on it. We too had crippling rope-drag on pitch five; doesn't seem possible to avoid it.

with Simon Carr
Col Kingshott 30/May/16 AltLd

Awesome. Last pitch soaking though.

HaleAlex ?/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

First HVS, great route. I think Alec finished the last pitch too far left making it a bit tougher

Hidden 30/Jul/15 -
Hidden 10/Jul/15 AltLd
manbat 09/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Great route, plenty of variety, exposure and stunning positions. Good value for your money - make sure you have enough time to do this, a fast party would still probably need 4 hours. I did P1, 3 and 5. P4 is quite involved, and has the most questionable rock. P5 is delightful. Easy climbing on huge holds and generally sound rock. Found a pretty bomber belay with 2 nuts and a sling on boulders about 5 metres back from the top out.

Lumbering Oaf 09/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

What a great route!! P2 and P4. Climbing is no harder than 4c. Loads of holds, some sections of crumbly, dubious rock (P4) but all pitches giving fantastic, if at times serious, situations. Belays were all good or adequate...even the final belay is ok (didn't find stake) - we used the rock outcrop. A great climb and worthy of three stars. Take lots of slings for protection. Worthy of HVS 4c.

catrin289 06/Jun/15 AltLd
annep11 06/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Wild! No hard climbing but some loose and crumbly rock, particularly on P4, where partner pulled off a large, solid-looking jug. Crippling rope drag on the topout.

Liam Ingram 06/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
nickb1 05/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with annep11
pete_mack 15/May/15 2nd O/S

Loose and atmospheric

JoeCoxson 15/May/15 AltLd dnf

Lead P1 & 3, in a lot of swell. Got to the P3 belay, but couldn't find any gear, and it looked like it'd been hit by a wave pretty recently, so gave it a miss. We'll be back.

kim.mulji 31/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

If you are following the Rockfax description of how to find the climb, you need to turn down at the second bench, not the first from the car-park. The scree is obvious, go down and right (as looking out) to find the start of the climb. You can use a stake a few metres up from the start of the climb as a belay. Led pitches 1, 3, and 5. Spectacular climbing, and you wonder how you manage it, but the climbing is never more than 4c, and protection is there, but needs finding sometimes! Take a few slings for tying off, threading, etc. Pitch 5 was much harder than the others though, harder to protect, more overhanging, and damp! Serious rope-drag on that pitch as well, though not sure how I could have improved things much. Found a nut protection and thread at top for my belay after that last pitch, and finally managed to bring up my second after lots of tough rope-hauling.

oscaig 31/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Superb climb through amazing rock scenery. Led Pitches 2 and 4. Pitch 5 wet and greasy and generally a bit unpleasant and intimidating but still well furnished with holds.

Hidden 07/Jul/13 Lead
Robin Woodward ?/Jun/13 Lead

Improvised Exit due to Alex belaying the wrong side of the last arete.

Alex the Alex ?/Jun/13 AltLd

Amazing location and a great line. At times some likeness to frost-icing. The last pitch seemed a little hard to navigate?

Motown 20/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Lead first, third and final pitch. Complete exposure all the way in incredible surroundings. The final pitch was exciting - heading into a dark corner on increasingly steep and occasionally loose rock. No belay stake so used dubious rocks. Brilliant route.

with Luke
Mr Tickle 20/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Fantastic climb, a real adventure. Rockfax 1st and 3rd belays a few metres out but stances are fairly obvious. Couple of rusted pegs still there but not in great condition and we couldn't find the final steak belay at the top. Very atmospheric with big seas, exposed belays and a little bit of looseness!

with Will
martin clarke 20/Oct/12 AltLd

lead 2@5 belay stake missing

stephen ashworth 20/Oct/12 AltLd
with martin clarke
samfayers 12/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Lead P2 and P4. Was a good route lots of lose rock had to be very careful with the footing! Got a bit lost on P2 but eventually found a reasonable belay ledge in about the right place! P4 was much more straight forward to a huge belay ledge. Over all was a good climb but lots of lose rock beware!

with Dunton
georgedunton 12/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Pitches 1,3,5

sam.hann 19/Mar/12 AltLd
Davebryant 19/Mar/12 AltLd
JevonJennings ??/2012 AltLd
Hidden 04/Jun/11 AltLd
Hidden 29/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
climbingpixie 29/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Mmmm, atmospheric! Surprisingly amenable climbing on unsettling rock in an exciting situation.

with Andy
Johnny Baker ??/2011 -
Matt Fry 30/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

Scrambled P1, did variations on P2, 3 (lead), 4, 5(lead). P5 was pretty interesting with wet and suspect rock to a belay including a small rounded lump of rock, a small nut and a clump of heather! Not quite HVS this way i don't think...

Bobby Gilbert 30/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
JerryD 17/Oct/10 AltLd
Jacob k-d 15/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

loose and fun. mega climb

Hidden 04/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Macca_7 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Amazing what an amazing line! Nerve wracking and jangling all the way! On a par with Dream but harder and more scary I think? Brilliant! Led P1, P3 and P4!

Legs 03/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

An awesome multi pitch traverse. Very committing on rock with dose not instill you with confidence. Each pitch has its own feature to process and overcome. Macca lead the first, third and fourth pitches. I lead the second. We spent 5 hours doing it with waves crashing against the bottom of the cliff. Very intimidating.

Geoffers 02/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Tim
rob1 30/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with Dave Williams
Johnny Baker 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S

I led this on one of the dry days in the great BBQ summer of 2009. Check out this for our take on a great adventure

with Matt Ellis
Hidden 13/May/08 AltLd
cem 07/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

Led p 3 & 5. Topped out as it was getting dark. Used rabbit holes for belay as I couldn't find anything else

nickdonohue 20/Nov/99 AltLd

Absolutely superb; real 'out there' positions, weird looking but sound rock

with Mark McCarthy
colin milton 30/Apr/95 AltLd
with eric milton
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 23
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 22
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set