Rockfax Description
Climb the tricky wall to the upper of two ledges then climb out left to the centre of the wall, up a short crack then swing left again to reach the exposed, juggy arete for a well-positioned finale that is great practice for L'Horla. Care with rope work required if you want to enjoy the experience to the full.
A lower traverse is Oceanview, E1 5c. © Rockfax
FA. Malc Baxter 1960.
ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50 , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors) , Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties , Over the Moors 3 Star Magical Mystery Tour , Definitive *** Peak Grit , On Peak Rock , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3
User | Date | Notes | ||
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johnwarburton | 9 Aug, 2007 |
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βeta: tried it last night amongs a herd of midges i failed to get up the overhanging arete after that desperate fingery traverse,the start is very technical with no gear apart from a very low zero friend ,the moves onto the sloping ledges are very insecure but you can fiddle a small friend in the back of the ledges,if u can hang on long enough.??? i placed a blind half friend on 2 cams in the upper groove to protect the traverse left.After that the gear is ok but the finish up the arete finished me off.A very bold lead for when it was done,in the 1960's.I spoke to Dave Crilley who was on the first ascent with Malc Baxter about it in the Clarence last night it took them 3 days of effort.I hope i was on the correct route. | ||
Show beta
βeta: tried it last night amongs a herd of midges i failed to get up the overhanging arete after that desperate fingery traverse,the start is very technical with no gear apart from a very low zero friend ,the moves onto the sloping ledges are very insecure but you can fiddle a small friend in the back of the ledges,if u can hang on long enough.??? i placed a blind half friend on 2 cams in the upper groove to protect the traverse left.After that the gear is ok but the finish up the arete finished me off.A very bold lead for when it was done,in the 1960's.I spoke to Dave Crilley who was on the first ascent with Malc Baxter about it in the Clarence last night it took them 3 days of effort.I hope i was on the correct route. |
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Adam van Lopik | 20 Sep, 2002 |
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βeta: Fairly sustained with a very hard and impressive final move up the arete. Pretty much at the top of its grade. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Fairly sustained with a very hard and impressive final move up the arete. Pretty much at the top of its grade. |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Summit Quarry)