16m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the tricky wall to the upper of two ledges then climb out left to the centre of the wall, up a short crack then swing left again to reach the exposed, juggy arete for a well-positioned finale that is great practice for L'Horla. Care with rope work required if you want to enjoy the experience to the full.
A lower traverse is Oceanview, E1 5c. © Rockfax

FA. Malc Baxter 1960

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors), Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Over the Moors 3 Star Magical Mystery Tour, Definitive *** Peak Grit, On Peak Rock

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UserDateNotes
johnwarburton 9 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: tried it last night amongs a herd of midges i failed to get up the overhanging arete after that desperate fingery traverse,the start is very technical with no gear apart from a very low zero friend ,the moves onto the sloping ledges are very insecure but you can fiddle a small friend in the back of the ledges,if u can hang on long enough.??? i placed a blind half friend on 2 cams in the upper groove to protect the traverse left.After that the gear is ok but the finish up the arete finished me off.A very bold lead for when it was done,in the 1960's.I spoke to Dave Crilley who was on the first ascent with Malc Baxter about it in the Clarence last night it took them 3 days of effort.I hope i was on the correct route.
 
Show beta
βeta: tried it last night amongs a herd of midges i failed to get up the overhanging arete after that desperate fingery traverse,the start is very technical with no gear apart from a very low zero friend ,the moves onto the sloping ledges are very insecure but you can fiddle a small friend in the back of the ledges,if u can hang on long enough.??? i placed a blind half friend on 2 cams in the upper groove to protect the traverse left.After that the gear is ok but the finish up the arete finished me off.A very bold lead for when it was done,in the 1960's.I spoke to Dave Crilley who was on the first ascent with Malc Baxter about it in the Clarence last night it took them 3 days of effort.I hope i was on the correct route.
Adam van Lopik 20 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Fairly sustained with a very hard and impressive final move up the arete. Pretty much at the top of its grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fairly sustained with a very hard and impressive final move up the arete. Pretty much at the top of its grade.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 24 Aug 2nd O/S
deacondeacon 24 Aug Lead O/S
Frank the Husky 14 Jul -
with Youth
with Youth
conronoy 29 Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 28 Jun Lead O/S
papashango ?Jun Lead O/S
with PMW, natmat, Andy Davies
with PMW, natmat, Andy Davies
dom94 30 Mar Lead O/S Really interesting sequences
Really interesting sequences
Hidden 30 Mar 2nd dog
JamesAWilson ?Nov, 2018 Lead O/S
Calum Wadsworth 1 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Excellent climbing, way better than it looks from the floor.
with Calum Irvine
Excellent climbing, way better than it looks from the floor.
with Calum Irvine
benrhyd 11 May, 2018 2nd Absolutely fantastic, one of the best grit routes i’ve done
with Joe Barlow
Absolutely fantastic, one of the best grit routes i’ve done
with Joe Barlow
Ali D 23 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
with Clay C
with Clay C
Hidden 23 Apr, 2017 2nd dog
bryce.dorin 31 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
with Corty
with Corty
Hidden 24 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Oct, 2015 2nd
Andy Peak 1 1 Oct, 2015 Lead β Very good and very hot
Very good and very hot
BenedictIEP 4 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
Nigel Bond 30 Jun, 2014 2nd
with Max Cole
with Max Cole
Stig 21 May, 2014 Lead O/S On Simon's gear.
with sishaw
On Simon's gear.
with sishaw
sishaw 21 May, 2014 Lead O/S Quality varied climbing that has almost everything other than a drinks fountain at the top (it was hot day) I second it straight after and enjoyed it nearly s much. Start was a bit scary in hot sticky conditions.
with Stig
Quality varied climbing that has almost everything other than a drinks fountain at the top (it was hot day) I second it straight after and enjoyed it nearly s much. Start was a bit scary in hot sticky conditions.
with Stig
Climbster 31 Mar, 2014 2nd β
Bloke on a Rope 31 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S Really enjoyed this one, the break on the crux traverse was seeping quite alot, but it didn't detract too much from the climb, loved the exposure on the arete finish!
Really enjoyed this one, the break on the crux traverse was seeping quite alot, but it didn't detract too much from the climb, loved the exposure on the arete finish!
Hardonicus 22 May, 2013 2nd rpt
with Alex Thompson
with Alex Thompson
Hidden 22 May, 2013 Lead O/S
scottidog 7 Apr, 2013 2nd
with Graeme
with Graeme
Frank the Husky ??, 2013 -
Ian Broome 8 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S quite pokey feeling at the bottom. devious classic.
quite pokey feeling at the bottom. devious classic.
petellis 8 Sep, 2012 2nd dog Reckon this is one of the best E1s on grit. Bit too tired to get the arete move clean though.
with Ian Broome, The short fuse, El Bailos
Reckon this is one of the best E1s on grit. Bit too tired to get the arete move clean though.
with Ian Broome, The short fuse, El Bailos
JimD58 15 Jul, 2012 2nd β
tsl42 26 May, 2012 2nd dnf Seconded some and bailed right. First bit was tough though. one of those days...
with Fragmod
Seconded some and bailed right. First bit was tough though. one of those days...
with Fragmod
steveshaking 21 May, 2012 2nd rpt Pete's back, his first E1 since broken bones at Standing Stones 2 years ago.
with Peter Brown
Pete's back, his first E1 since broken bones at Standing Stones 2 years ago.
with Peter Brown
steveshaking 13 May, 2012 Lead rpt Been wanting to lead this for so long, no disappointment, wonderful sustained interest.
with Domanic Basson
Been wanting to lead this for so long, no disappointment, wonderful sustained interest.
with Domanic Basson
Tony Kartawick ??, 2012 -
Coel Hellier 17 Nov, 2011 Lead
Hidden 17 Nov, 2011 2nd rpt
Robin Warden 24 Jul, 2011 Lead
with rob weston
with rob weston
Mike_d78 6 Jul, 2011 2nd rpt
with ste_d
with ste_d
ste_d 6 Jul, 2011 Lead rpt
MeMeMe 3 Jul, 2011 Lead
with sandy
with sandy
Andy Hardy 1 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 26 Jun, 2011 Lead
Nicola 19 Jun, 2011 2nd O/S
with Barra
with Barra
g1m147 11 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S Absolutely brilliant!!!
with Mick.
Absolutely brilliant!!!
with Mick.
psychicbread 9 Jun, 2011 2nd O/S
with Max
with Max
Tony Holdsworth 11 May, 2011 2nd rpt
with Ian Holtby
with Ian Holtby
Hardonicus 20 Apr, 2011 2nd
willworkforfoodjnr 20 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S That finish is crazy!
That finish is crazy!
petegunn 15 Apr, 2011 Lead Tricky balancy traverse then a bit of brute force on the arete. excellent
Tricky balancy traverse then a bit of brute force on the arete. excellent
Hidden 15 Apr, 2011 2nd O/S
Hidden 19 Mar, 2011 Lead
hilty 6 Mar, 2011 - Wet crux hold made it harder but still got it great route, better that it looks!
Wet crux hold made it harder but still got it great route, better that it looks!
keith leonard ??, 2011 2nd
Bry 12 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
with Steve and Lynn
with Steve and Lynn
Simon Davenport 25 Apr, 2010 Lead dnf Clean on sight until I reached just below the arete and it pissed down - lowered off - what a bummer!
with Brian and Dave
Clean on sight until I reached just below the arete and it pissed down - lowered off - what a bummer!
with Brian and Dave
Rich Guest 20 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S Another classy E1 to partner Fallen Heroes. This one has got loads to it. Bold start & committing moves to the juggy thuggy arete kept me on my toes throughout
Another classy E1 to partner Fallen Heroes. This one has got loads to it. Bold start & committing moves to the juggy thuggy arete kept me on my toes throughout
Hidden 20 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
Mattyk 17 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S Best route i've done in ages. Brilliant bouldery moves with that "wild" finish up the arete.. never miles from a good hold - and only distant from gear at the start. Absolutely superb.
with John Marsham
Best route i've done in ages. Brilliant bouldery moves with that "wild" finish up the arete.. never miles from a good hold - and only distant from gear at the start. Absolutely superb.
with John Marsham
Ketu 10 Apr, 2010 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 10 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S how GOOD is this!!!! felt good to pull it out of the bag after making VSs look hard in the morning! A slight sense of Déjà vu from the traverse on Vibrio (Chatsworth) from the day before but thankfully easier. Used two ropes and had no rope work issues
with Ketu
how GOOD is this!!!! felt good to pull it out of the bag after making VSs look hard in the morning! A slight sense of Déjà vu from the traverse on Vibrio (Chatsworth) from the day before but thankfully easier. Used two ropes and had no rope work issues
with Ketu
Compo 17 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S
with Karo
with Karo
Hidden 27 Sep, 2009 2nd
ste_d 17 Sep, 2009 TR rpt
with shunt
with shunt
Jon Read 13 Jun, 2009 Lead bad hair day.
with Mark Sharrat & Andi Turner
bad hair day.
with Mark Sharrat & Andi Turner
Hidden 5 Apr, 2009 2nd O/S
ianburton ??, 2009 Lead O/S Started raining when i set off, then started raining properly when I was traversing the slab! superb outing, even in the rain.
Started raining when i set off, then started raining properly when I was traversing the slab! superb outing, even in the rain.
Ropeboy 23 Aug, 2008 Lead Great route, techy goove start followed by tricky traverse and big pulls up the arete. Def 3 star E1.
Great route, techy goove start followed by tricky traverse and big pulls up the arete. Def 3 star E1.
Hidden 6 Jun, 2008 2nd
Matthallinan 5 Jun, 2008 Lead
with Phil Parker
with Phil Parker
gazlad 1 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S awesome route with just enough fear to keep you interested through out. do it
with my bitch
awesome route with just enough fear to keep you interested through out. do it
with my bitch
taine 11 May, 2008 2nd dnf
with Haydn
with Haydn
Hardonicus 11 May, 2008 Lead O/S Superb. Never ever 5c though...
Superb. Never ever 5c though...
steveshaking 1 May, 2008 2nd β Rough date/year, Pete's first E1, fantastic line, double crux - first technical, second psychological
with Peter Brown
Rough date/year, Pete's first E1, fantastic line, double crux - first technical, second psychological
with Peter Brown
Hidden 29 Apr, 2008 Solo dnf
Shad ??, 2008 2nd
Ian Parnell 12 Sep, 2007 Lead O/S
with Jon Winter
with Jon Winter
mattnuttall 17 Apr, 2007 2nd O/S
with Alan Holden
with Alan Holden
jonnyboy 17 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S quite good really. technical moves to start, nice traverse and exposed finish.
quite good really. technical moves to start, nice traverse and exposed finish.
tommytuffa ??, 2007 -
Hidden ?Sep, 2006 Lead dnf
spacey 27 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 Jun, 2006 Solo O/S
Hidden 30 May, 2006 Lead O/S
Carl Smethurst 26 Jun, 2005 2nd Amazing route!
with Ian Pickles
Amazing route!
with Ian Pickles
Hidden 20 Jun, 2005 2nd
Mark A Humphries 23 Mar, 2005 Lead O/S
with gary wood
with gary wood
nige ?Jul, 2004 Lead
with mark hounslea
with mark hounslea
r0b 6 Jun, 2004 Lead dnf
with Andy Smith
with Andy Smith
Duncan I ??, 2004 Lead
chris sm 7 Jul, 2003 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
with Pippa Froggatt
Daniel Armitage 23 Mar, 2003 Lead O/S
chrishedgehog 18 Mar, 2003 Lead O/S
with Drew
with Drew
Roget 21 Jul, 2002 Solo O/S
charlesmfrench 14 Jul, 2002 Lead
Hidden 20 Apr, 2002 Lead O/S
EddieA 7 Oct, 2001 2nd dnf I couldn't do the finishing move - one to go back to. It was a wet day so we did well to do 3 VSs and a couple of severes - and Dave P led this cleanly with few problems, despite the rain. I see the finishing move has been upgraded from 5b to 5c
I couldn't do the finishing move - one to go back to. It was a wet day so we did well to do 3 VSs and a couple of severes - and Dave P led this cleanly with few problems, despite the rain. I see the finishing move has been upgraded from 5b to 5c
Ian Jones ??, 2000 Lead O/S
with Karen Ghiselli, Dave Greenald
with Karen Ghiselli, Dave Greenald
Neil McA 25 Jun, 1999 Lead O/S
with Andy Perkins
with Andy Perkins
Billg ?Mar, 1999 Lead O/S
with Paul Guttridge
with Paul Guttridge
craig h ?Dec, 1997 -
Phil West 12 Apr, 1997 Lead dnf
with David Atherton
with David Atherton
John Southworth 16 Jun, 1996 Lead O/S
with Matt Booth
with Matt Booth
Neil R 2 Jun, 1996 Lead O/S
with Richard W
with Richard W
neilh 9 May, 1996 Lead
with Neil Smith
with Neil Smith
Martin Bennett 30 Apr, 1995 -
with MT
with MT
Gordon Stainforth 14 Aug, 1994 2nd O/S A superb route. Technically very demanding for grade (more like E2 5c)
with Mick Wrigley, Steve Dean
A superb route. Technically very demanding for grade (more like E2 5c)
with Mick Wrigley, Steve Dean
ste_d 14 May, 1994 -
Mike_d78 1 Apr, 1994 Lead O/S
with ste_d
with ste_d
goi.ashmore 26 Sep, 1993 Lead RP
with Simon Coles
with Simon Coles
Rob Davies 1 Jul, 1993 Lead
with Mark Prest
with Mark Prest
ste_d 12 May, 1992 2nd O/S
craig h 9 Dec, 1991 Solo O/S
Hidden 8 Sep, 1991 Lead
steveb2006 7 Sep, 1991 Lead
with Brian Hamilton
with Brian Hamilton
nai ??, 1991 Lead
David Slater 20 Aug, 1989 Lead
with John Peate
with John Peate
Dave Musgrove 17 Jun, 1989 2nd β
onefootholdinthegrave ?Jan, 1989 Lead
onefootholdinthegrave ?Jan, 1989 Lead
Rich Kirby ??, 1989 2nd
Derek Furze ??, 1987 Lead
Derek Furze ??, 1987 Lead
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 50
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 46
Votes cast 47
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set