Restricted Access
The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
A very exciting first pitch with good protection. Described here with the top pitch of The Heidelberg Creature.
1) 5a, 24m. Climb Sweet SA to its bulge and then move up right to below the large roof. Traverse right under it until a corner at its end leads to the faultline. Move right along the faultline to a belay (shared with The Heidelberg Creature).
2) 4b, 20m. Pitch 2 of The Heidelberg Creature. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
5a, 4b
FA. D.M.Roberts, R.M.Wilson 19/May/1968.
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David's Metraverse
Grade: HVS 4a ***
(Cave Hole)