UKC Logbook - 'The Heidelberg Creature'

40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The initial pitch takes a steep but well-protected corner; the second is less pressing but still provides plenty of interest right up until the end. Start on a small ledge below the corner.
1) 4c, 20m. Climb the corner and make a steep pull up left to a ledge below an overhang at 8m. Continue steeply up the corner on good holds to a ledge and belay at the faultline.
2) 4b, 20m. Pull through the overhang using a finger-crack and move up to a slim corner. Climb the sustained corner to a sloping ledge on the right at its end. Finish carefully. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
There is reports of some large loose blocks at 2/3 hieght. Take care until this has stabilised.

FA. Tony Wilmott, A.Heppenstall 18/Sep/1966.

Ticklists

WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20 , West Country Climbs , Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , Orange Spot Swanage , South West VDiff-HVS , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , South West Classic VS's , Dorset Routes that are worth doing

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User	Date		Notes
tvalentine85	13 Jul	Show βeta βeta: Not sure it warrants the HVS grade as its laced with gear; its a fantastic, breezy climb. However, there is only one belay stake at the top unless I missed a second. I ended up excavating a crack and throwing a nut in it. I'd give it three stars.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Not sure it warrants the HVS grade as its laced with gear; its a fantastic, breezy climb. However, there is only one belay stake at the top unless I missed a second. I ended up excavating a crack and throwing a nut in it. I'd give it three stars.
Kiddie68	3 Jul	Show βeta βeta: Really good climbing, if a little greasy on our day. Managed to find little rests here and there, back and footing across the gap. Good gear, good belay, nice top pitch. Found new stakes easily.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Really good climbing, if a little greasy on our day. Managed to find little rests here and there, back and footing across the gap. Good gear, good belay, nice top pitch. Found new stakes easily.
Pollie88	13 Mar	Show βeta βeta: Such an enjoyable route. Big moves on big holds in pitch one. Best belay stance in Swanage? Pitch two is oddly graded at 4b. Still felt 4c to me; but it is steady.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Such an enjoyable route. Big moves on big holds in pitch one. Best belay stance in Swanage? Pitch two is oddly graded at 4b. Still felt 4c to me; but it is steady.
Paul Sagar	8 Oct, 2022	Show βeta βeta: There IS an abseil stake, it’s just hidden in the undergrowth. Search!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: There IS an abseil stake, it’s just hidden in the undergrowth. Search!
Stevos	20 Sep, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Well steep - HVS seems a sensible grade.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Well steep - HVS seems a sensible grade.
mikehenesy	26 Mar, 2022	Show βeta βeta: No loose blocks as suggested in a recent logbook entry.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: No loose blocks as suggested in a recent logbook entry.
Indignancy	14 Aug, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Took one look at this today and walked past - some very loose and very massive stuff in the crack is just waiting to come out.
Show beta βeta: Took one look at this today and walked past - some very loose and very massive stuff in the crack is just waiting to come out.
Andre Clarke	12 Jun, 2019	Show βeta βeta: First pitch a bit stiff for 4c but then again could be just because it was our warm up route and not a walk in park. Sea gulls nesting a break where belay is. They dive bombed my partner much to my shock and ever so slight amusement.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: First pitch a bit stiff for 4c but then again could be just because it was our warm up route and not a walk in park. Sea gulls nesting a break where belay is. They dive bombed my partner much to my shock and ever so slight amusement.
Katsmiff	11 May, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Sea gull nesting on first belay point 11.05.2019	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Sea gull nesting on first belay point 11.05.2019
ian bryant	27 May, 2007	Show βeta βeta: great climbing and great value	βeta?
Show beta βeta: great climbing and great value
jtree03	2 Jun, 2006	Show βeta βeta: Lovely route! Just look down from the stance and see how much that first pitch overhangs! Crux is definitely the step left onto the arete below the wide crack on pitch one. Top pitch pleasantly exposed.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Lovely route! Just look down from the stance and see how much that first pitch overhangs! Crux is definitely the step left onto the arete below the wide crack on pitch one. Top pitch pleasantly exposed.
Jon Greengrass	12 Sep, 2005	Show βeta βeta: Can be done in 1 mega pitch, (you can get a lie down rest on the belay ledge to recover from all the bridging) with a pair of 60m ropes and a load of long quickdraws to extend the runners under the bulges. Some right thrutchy moves to get through the first bulge, big fists help with the jamming and its a bit dusty though so feels quite insecure. The corner crack on what would have been the top pitch offers thin hand jamming on superb rough rock.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Can be done in 1 mega pitch, (you can get a lie down rest on the belay ledge to recover from all the bridging) with a pair of 60m ropes and a load of long quickdraws to extend the runners under the bulges. Some right thrutchy moves to get through the first bulge, big fists help with the jamming and its a bit dusty though so feels quite insecure. The corner crack on what would have been the top pitch offers thin hand jamming on superb rough rock.
Ewan	24 Jul, 2000	Show βeta βeta: The first pitch felt quite hard for 4c. The move past the ledge on the arete, caused problems.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: The first pitch felt quite hard for 4c. The move past the ledge on the arete, caused problems.